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Assateague Island National Seashore - Maryland

Assateague Island National Seashore is located on a wild stretch of barrier island in far southeastern Maryland. Comprised of 37 miles of clean sand beach, Assateague offers fine hiking, backcountry camping, surf fishing, hunting, bird watching, and canoeing in the sheltered waters of Chincoteague Bay. The park encompasses about 49,000 acres with almost 10,000 acres covered in water.

In geological time Assateague is extremely young. The same forces that create barrier islands can rip them apart. Built and torn down by wind, waves, and storms, the thin spit of sand that extends south from Maryland is only a major hurricane away from being erased. Ironically it was a major ocean storm that saved Assateague from developers.

In the 1950'ies plans were made and ground was broken on a complex of resort homes, hotels and shopping centers along the Atlantic coast. In March of 1962 one of the largest storms to hit the Maryland coast in the twentieth century ripped across Assateague. The island was completely washed over in most places and the roads, power lines, and a handful of homes were swept away into the sea. After requests to build breakwaters and seawalls were denied, the development plans were scrapped and Assateague National Seashore was born on September 21, 1965. The history of this development can still be seen today with several private property lots located within the confines of the park.

Assateague Island National Seashore is famous for two key attractions, the beach itself, and the wild horses that call the park home (more on the horses later). One of the unique features of Assateague is its lack of roads. The Maryland side of the park has two miles of road and the Virginia side of the park has close to five. To access the heart of Assateague you are going to have to walk or paddle.

There are five hiking trails available within the park. The main trail is the beach itself. If you are looking for solitude and live in the metropolitan Washington D. C. area, it doesn't get better than this. Park your car either at North Ocean Beach in Maryland or Toms Cove Visitor Center in Virginia and start walking toward the state border. On all but the busiest of summer weekends you will be alone after just 200 yards. A lazy walk down the beach on a summer day is an excellent way to forget about the troubles of the real world in this wild and breathtakingly beautiful place.

If you plan to do some backcountry camping at one of six available sites keep in mind that hiking on a beach isn't as easy as it sounds. You will probably find yourself walking on the firm sand where the waves lap up onto the beach and that means your feet will constantly be wet. Water sandals or just going bare feet will make the trip easier. The shifting sand robs you of power as you take each step and the lack of shade can make even a tepid day feel warm. If you plan to camp be sure you are in good shape and carry plenty of water. The walk from Toms Cove Visitor Center to the State Line backcountry campsite is 13 miles one way while shorter treks can be found on the Maryland side.

Of course if you don't want to walk you could always paddle your way to a backcountry campsite. The smooth shallow waters of Chincoteague Bay might as well be a world apart from the Atlantic Ocean just a half-mile to the east. Four backcountry campsites, Jim's Gut, Pine Tree, Tingles Island and Pope Bay can all be accessed by canoe or kayak. Morning tends to be calm and is an excellent time to start your journey. In the afternoon strong sea breezes can come up making it difficult to paddle. If you do plan to paddle at Assateague make sure you always wear a lifejacket and be aware of the weather.

If walking or paddling your way into the backcountry isn't what you have in mind for your ocean visit, consider walking on one of three nature trails on the Maryland side of the park. Life of the Dune, Life of the Marsh, and Life of the Forest are three separate half-mile nature trails located at North Ocean Beach. Each trail allows visitors to see and learn the complexities of the three key biospheres found within Assateague.

The Life of the Dune Trail is a bit of an effort through soft sand and explores the harsh, desert like environment. Visitors can look for tracks made by deer, fox, raccoons, elk (non-native to the island but transplanted here in 1920 from Japan), wild horses and a wide variety of shore birds. One of the most vital components of sand dunes is the shrubs and grasses that eek out an existence despite being baked by the sun, sprayed with salt, and blasted by the wind.

The Life of the Forest Trail is a handicapped accessible path that passes by ponds, a variety of shrubs and loblolly pines stunted by the wind and weather. The highlight of the trail is on an observation deck that allows you to see miles of forest and a panoramic view of Chincoteague Bay.

Finally there is the Life of the Marsh Trail that is a handicapped accessible raised boardwalk. The boardwalk explores the critical role barrier islands and salt marshes play to wildlife. It offers outstanding opportunities to see birds and it also offers an observation deck to view Chincoteague Bay.

The fifth hiking trail in Assateague Island National Seashore is located in Virginia. From dawn until 3:00 PM each day the three mile long Wildlife Loop Road is closed to traffic. The road loops around Snow Goose Pool in the Chincoteague Wildlife National Refuge and is an excellent place to see a variety of birds and animals. After 3:00 PM the road is opened up to traffic for those who wish to auto tour the park.

If you have a four wheel drive vehicle driving on the beach is allowed with the purchase of a permit on the Maryland side of the park. The 19 mile vehicle path skirts the Atlantic shoreline and offers easy access to the backcountry. If you don't have experience driving a four-wheel-drive vehicle, taking the Chevy Blazer you rented from Avis down the beach might not be a great idea. The owner is responsible if they get their vehicle stuck and recovery can be very expensive. Be sure if you are driving to watch for wildlife and hikers.

There aren't any improved campsites located within Assateague Island National Seashore. Visitors looking for camping facilities can stay at one of 300 sites in Assateague State Park, Maryland or at a number of commercial campgrounds located around Ocean City.

Of course a visit to the beach wouldn't be complete without swimming or beachcombing. The waters of the Mid-Atlantic can be downright cold at the start of the summer season. By August ocean temperatures can hover around 70 degrees while the air temperature can get close to 100. Because of the remote location and a lack of roads Assateague Island National Seashore is a beachcombers paradise. Driftwood, shells and beach glass can be found easily along the shore once you get to more remote areas of the beach. The best time to go is about an hour before low tide or after a storm.

If the name Assateague seems somewhat familiar to you it should be. Assateague Island National Seashore is world famous for wild horses. Referred to as ponies, the horses were probably driven onto the island by English settlers in the 17th century. A barrier fence along the state line of Maryland and Virginia has been set up to keep the two herds separated. During the summer months they can be spotted along the shores of Chincoteague Bay and exploring the backcountry campsites.

Every spring people come from around the world to Chincoteague, Virginia to witness the wild horses being rounded up and swimming across Chincoteague Bay. The captured horses are then sold at auction with the proceeds benefiting the town of Chincoteague.

Although Assateague is an island paradise it does harbor one dark secret. The dark secret isn't Richard from the CBS TV series Survivor walking naked down the beach - it's insects. During most days the hot sun and stiff breeze off of the Atlantic keeps the winged masses in line. When the wind dies down and the sun starts to set, visitors can be besieged by greenhead flies, no-see-ums, and mosquitoes. If your plans are in the improved areas of the park and during the day, it really isn't all that bad but if you plan to head into the backcountry be sure to use plenty of insect repellant.

Seeming almost misplaced by the development of Ocean City Maryland, Assateague Island National Seashore is an outstanding destination for a one day getaway or a relaxing vacation. The park offers miles of unspoiled shoreline to explore and Ocean City to the north provides more conventional creature comforts for your Maryland coast getaway.

Just The Plain Facts

Name: Assateague Island National Seashore
Fees & Permits: $5 per vehicle to visit to park. $60 for permit to drive on the Maryland side of the beach, permit is good for 13 months. $5 for backcountry camping permit. Hunting is allowed from September to January and appropriate Maryland and/or Virginia hunting permits are required.
Why Visit: One of the only unspoiled barrier islands on the east coast. Thirty-seven miles of shoreline offers excellent hiking and four-wheel-drive access, world famous wild horses, canoeing and kayaking in the relatively calm waters of Chincoteague Bay, outstanding bird watching opportunities.
When To Visit: April to October
More Information: Assateague Island National Seashore, 7206 National Seashore Lane, Berlin, Maryland 21811, (410) 641-1441

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