Transmission Fluid And Filter Change

[TexAVfan]

Thanks TexAVfan,  good information, and I followed the earlier link to your description of flush procedure, and learned more about the whole thing.  Sounds like taking it somewhere is the best bet - although I've never liked other people working on my cars and trucks.
I haven't been out here in while with the summer rush of vacation and all.  The forums and site are looking very good.  i'de liike to make some of the houston cruises in the future.  my problem withthe past is i'm always tied up.
thanks again.

You are most welcome and we all look forward to seeing you again - you have been MIA for a long time - but I still remember you and I hope you still get my e-mails on updates - you do right? Good to see you at least on the boards.

[mattie 03]

Hey guys,
In response to synthetic transmission fluid being more slippery than regular transmission fluid, it's not. Synthetic fluid is made with the same base oil as regalar transmission fluid. The advantage of synthetic transmission lube is it signifigantly cuts down on the oxidation. When tranmission fluid gets hot it oxidizes or forms a varnish. When a regular PAO fluid gets oxidized from stop and go traffic, hauling, etc.... it forms a varnish on the discs and you will eventually see some slippage. What the synthetic does is keep the oxidation down so the varnish does not form thus keeping the disc cleaner. As it says on the amsoil site, you can compare this to sandpaper. Wet sandpaper works just as well as dry sandpaper. The lubricating aspects  of the water on the sandpaper does not affect it's ability to do the job. It's no different with synthetics. Just like rinsing wet sandpaper removes the dust, syntheic fluid works in much the same way. I am planning to change the fluid in mine from the ATF to synthetic and also change the filter this weekend. I will do the full flush instead of just the pan drop and filter. Go to the amsoil site and read for yourself. I think you'll change your minds.

[mattie 03]

Well guys, it looks like a change of plans. I called the guy who's doing my transmission flush and he says his machine can't do the flush and put synthetic back in. He says he uses a cleaner first, then does a flush and then a back flush, refills the trans with a penzoil product transmisson fluid and adds a conditioner to the fluid. He says the conditioner plus the dexron III is really close to syntheic. He believes synthetic is over kill in the transmission but not in the engine. He also says (like I've seen posted earlier by 11h I think) that the filter doesn't need to be changed in the 4L60 transmissions. When the cleaner goes through it, it looks brand new when it's done. I really trust his opinion so I'll try that. Has anyone heard about this penzoil trans fluid and the conditioner? He says with regular maintenance the transmission being flushed each time should keep it trouble free.  

[MadDad]

I helped an Amsoil dealer/friend flush the tranny on my Dakota last year. We did the usual drop pan/change filter. Then we disconnected the tranny line at the top of the radiator. Put a clear hose on the radiator outlet, filled the pan back up and started the engine. We added oil at @ the same rate that it was coming out of the hose. When we hit fresh oil we could see the difference in color. Hooked everything back up topped the tranny off to the correct level and that was it.  

I haven't looked to see if there is a drain plug on my AV's tranny, hope so. What we did on th Dakota was use a small pump with a long suction hose, one of those cheapies you attach to a drill,  to remove as much as we could from the pan before removing it.

[mattie 03]

The transmission flush is done and man what a difference. $85.00, better shifts, more power, smoother transmission feel, worth every penny.

[02 Z71]

I just did my 50k service and changed my tranny filter.  What a pain in the a$$!!!!  After trying for several hours to get the T40 bolts out of the shift linkage bracket, I just gave up.  There is very little room to work or to get anything up there to get these darn T40 bolts off and they are extremely tight.

As Hernz Av has said earlier in this tread, you cannot get the pan off without the shift linkage bracket being removed.  I did manage to pull the filter off and get it out of the pan with the pan just dropped - this is not easy but it can be done.  I also managed to get the pan pushed back far enough to get the filter sleeve out and replaced.  

In my pan, the magnet was not attached to anything, just sitting in the bottom of the pan, so I just pullled the magnet out and cleaned it off, wiped out the pan and put the magnet back in.

After putting it all back together I put about 3.5 qts to get it to the correct level.

[djfcars]

Does the Chevy service people do the full system flush?

[fireeater]

Did the trans flush, trans filter, oil change, and fuel filter change today. Man what a difference. I couldn't believe how well the truck ran after pulling it out of the dealership. Just so everyone knows, the service manager told me that the 8.1 does NOT have a PCV valve.

Fireeater

Thanks to everyone who gave advice in this thread. Very happy with the outcome and the comfort of knowing that my truck is being serviced properly.

[nnjav]

Fireeater,

what did Tranny flush, tranny filter change, oil and fuel filter change cost at your dealer?

[Z66Modder]

The auto parts store computer states add 5 quarts and warm up for 3 to 5 mins., then check level; add as needed.

[DigitalBoy0101]

You will have to remove the shift cable and bracket. The nut for the shift cable is 13MM, then you will have a metal pin that keeps the cable in place, you will also have to push in two tabs to pull the cable out. Here is the hard part that had me cussing up a storm. The shift cable bracket has 2 size T40 torque bolts from the top. The were really tight. I have to use a small breaker bar with 3/8" rachet. The pan will NOT come out untill you remove the bracket. Once you get the pan out you will have oil all over the place. The next hard part is removing the filter sleeve. I used a small flat screwdriver to bend it and then pull it out with some needle nose pliers.

I'm in the middle of a fluid/filter change RIGHT NOW and this is the information I need. Stupid shift cable bracket is driving me batty. You say there's 2 T40 bolts for the bracket? I only feel one with my fingers so far, interesting.

The cable bracket also (mostly) covers 2 pan bolts. I thought I'd get by by gently bending the bracket out of the way and somehow got the bolts removed, but now the pan still won't drop. Guess the cable bracket really does need to be removed, and now you've given me the bit size I need.

Thanks for this post!

*edit* I HAVE to remove the pan, because I have to replace the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids. I'll be wrestling with those T40 bolts for as long as it takes, and it sounds like I can expect to be fighting with them for several hours........what a PITA.

[cadboy1]

I just used a C-clamp squeezing the bracket to the front driveshaft and that gave me the room to pull the pan. I read it on here somewhere 

[Z66Modder]

I just bent mine too.

[RogerT]

I called my local dealer yesterday, they recommend doing the flush and fill as the only way they change trans. fluid. Their cost is $139.95 plus tax with no appt. needed.

[Z66Modder]

I called my local dealer yesterday, they recommend doing the flush and fill as the only way they change trans. fluid. Their cost is $139.95 plus tax with no appt. needed.

But you still need to do the filter at some point.

[RogerT]

Their service includes a filter change with the flush and fill.