Driver's door PW Window Switch Repair

[sennister]

Does anyone know where the relays are for the rear door windows in an 03 with cladding? I want to double check that to see that I don't have a relay problem preventing the window from rolling up.

Also how does the driver's window switch panel come out? Does it just pop out?

Thanks

*Edit: Changed the subject on post to how the problem was resolved.

[sperry]

 I've been assembling instructions for your question.
Be right back..

[sperry]

First off, does this fail by the Dr door control AND the rear door switch?

Here's a link to the Driver Door switch R&R instructions:Dr.Door Power Window Sw. Repl.

There is a circuit breaker for the left doors in the left dash fuse block, but that would kill the DR & Left Pass windows.

Regardless, it sounds like a problem in the left rear window switch block. Here's a couple of schematics, if that will help you. Good Luck...

[sennister]

I posted a while back about the entire problem and didn't get any hits.

basically window works fine from the back left door. From the driver's door how ever it goes down fine but will not go up. I have to get out and roll it up from the control on the back door. Window lock is not active and even if it were it would disable the rear controls so I think it's a switch problem but I thought I would try and swap the relay with a known good one just to be sure as they want $200 for the drivers switch bank.

How does the driver's switch bank come out? Just pry up? Don't want to break anything else to test the switch.

Thanks

[sperry]

The switch contact in the rear door itself, maintains a path for power to the motor. The logic in the module passes current sent to it by the Body control module.
Follow the "Up" signal from the BCM - see if it's there when you operate it from the Dr. door. Compare it to the down signal. (These are not DATA, they are voltages.)
The above schematics will expand for you. (How, depends on your browser.)

The DR door switch sends commands to the Driver Door Module, which passes the command to the Body control Module, by DATA. The BCM in turn, sends the commands to the rear door module(s) by discrete means (normal power), not DATA.

It could be the front door switch "down" contact for that window, a wire to the door from the BCM, you name it. You just have to trace the function in stages/steps to isolate
the fault.

--
I spent quite a while assembling the instructions from GM for all to use. Just click on the "Dr.Door Power Window Sw. Repl." link above.  If I remember, the removal instructions state to remove a screw, but that's the Ft. door.

I had just enough time to complete the DRV Door parts. So as far as the LR door disassembly is concerned (until I post that one), I would only hope the procedure, although not the same door at all,  is close enough for one to resolve.

I will see if I can get the other's posted soon.

[sennister]

Ok, This is helping alot. This info along with what I have gathered from your article elseware on this site on how the windows operate have been a big help. I'm leaning toward it's a problem with the contact in the DR switch but I just don't want to buy parts when it may not fix the fault. I'm probably going to try and look at it this weekend if I have time. I'm just trying to gather all my resources at this time and come up with a course of action to follow during the touble shooting.

Thanks for the help.

[sperry]

That makes sense to me, I hope I get the chance to compile the rear door panel & Sw r&r for you. Time to do these posts is a bit sporadic.

[FSHNGUY]

It's been cold lately and the rear drivers side door doesn't lock or unlock with the swtich. But if you open it manually it works find then, but fails again later. Time to call the dealer and complain I guess.

[sennister]

Well Thanks for the info yet again Sperry!!!!

The problem has been resolved. I isolated the problem to the Driver's Door Switch unit. It looks like the problem was due to water getting into the switch from driving with the window down. GET THOSE WINDOW VENTS!!! If you choose not to get them you may be looking at doing this repair or one like it.

I am currently downloading the pictures from my camera that I took during the repair. So YIPPIE there are pics!!!!!! 

I'll get to posting them along with a summary of the entire procedure later this afternoon.

Sperry If you or anyone else out there would like full size copies of any or all of the pictures let me know. There were a could of places that were a little vague in the door trim removal procedures and I have pics that help explain how they open a little better to prevent breaking anything. I was stumped with the manual door lock leaver for a few min. I think the entire project was completed within an hour and I did take my time removing the trim as I wasn't 100% sure how it all came off.

[sennister]

Alright lets get started with opening up the door trim...

These two pics show the first trim piece that should be removed from around the door handle. If you note the area that is circled in red would be toward the front of the truck. This part should be uncliped from side that would be closer to the back of the truck as that is where the clip is. Pull from the side close to the front of the truck asn you may damage the area circled.

[sennister]

The next part would be the manual door lock latch. This was confusing to me. I didn't know if it was the entire part or just the leaver. As you can see it's the entire part. The first pic shows that it comes out again with the part toward the rear of the truck first to avoid damage.

[sennister]

Next remove the trim piece that is the trianglar part that is on the inside of where the rear view miror mounts to the door. Pull form the top as you can see how it attaches in the pic.

[sennister]

Now it's time to remove the screws that hold the door panel on the door. I used a 1/4 drive 9/32 socket and that fit all three screws that had to be pulled. Two are pulled to remove the door panel and one to remove the switch cluster from the door panel. I will show the third screw later. For the one behind the door handle I just used a 6" extension and could get on it well enough to remove and relace the screw.

[sennister]

Once the screws have been removed the door panel can be lifted up and removed from the door.

Now you have to remove the wire connectors. The first is the wire for the light and then the ones on the switch module. They were all straight forward other than the one pictured below. It is the main connector that goes on to the rest of the truck. There is a small button circled in red and then the gray leaverr is rotated to release this connector. I had never seen one like this and there isn't much room to work as there isn't much slack in the wire.

[sennister]

I then removed the switch module from the door trim as the trim was fully separated from the door now.

The third screw that needs to be removed as mentioned above can now be seen. This screw holds the side that would be closest to the front of the truck. The side close to the rear of the truck is retained by a clip. There are a couple other screws that can be seen on the inside of the door but they dont' need to be removed.

[sennister]

Ok here is the module out of the door trim.

The next pic shows how I opend up the switch module to inspect the inside of it. I used a row of nails from my air brad nailer to hit all the tabs that hold to open it up. A piece of sheet metal would work or screw drivers.

[sennister]

Oh forgot to  mention there is a security seal that has to be broken in order to open this. So I guess I voided my expired waranty. Oh well no loss.

Here you can see it with the bottom opened and then with the circuit board removed.

[sennister]

Below the first circuit board is the one that contains all the contacts. Once I removed this I could see how the switch module operated. I could also see the residue that was on the board and was causing my problems. I was 98% sure it was a switch problem and caused by water getting in the switch module.

[sennister]

In red you can see the areas where there was the water residue. I'm surprised that only the window up function on the driver's side rear passenger door was failing. The contact point in the lower right corner of the circle would be the contact for the window up on that door.

The second pic is a better pic of the area where the failure was and of the contact. The contaact above and to the right would be for the door locks.

[sennister]

The second pic above was actually after I cleaned the contacts. Below is what I used. I sprayed a little on a rag and cleaned the entire contact area.

[sennister]

Once cleaned I assembled the switch module and made the connections to test it.

EVERTHING WORKED 

[sennister]

Here are a couple other shots of the inside of the door trim and of the inside of the door to possibly help out others that may be working on something in this area. I do have a few mor photos that I didn't post that may be an angle to show something that someone else is looking for info on. Let me know if you would like all the pics.

[TXWaterman]

Wow, I'm impressed with your care of process for us all to follow! THANK YOU!!!

[sperry]

Great info! Very well done..

And BTW, when I cleaned up PC boards & contacts like that, I used white vinegar (small acid brush, cut to shorter bristles), rinsed it off with distilled water then isopropyl alcohol (with the same cleaned brush) . then air'ed it off.

I followed up with the contact cleaning using an ink eraser (gentle).

The elastomer parts also, if there was goo on them. Alcohol only followed by an air can blast, only if they appeared to need it.

[Old.Ski.Bum]

Anybody have other ideas? Drivers side window will not go down! I tried this using these EXCELLENT directions. Hats off!!!! I also swaped fuses with the passenger door but the fuse worked in the passenger door and the passenger door fuse didn't work in the Driver's door. Thought I could save a trip to the dealer but.......