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Author Topic: FireStorm wiring question????  (Read 1101 times)
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Z66Modder
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« Reply #25 on: 06/11/09 12:48 AM »

I may call GM and figure out that mystery!  Thanks for the confirmation Z66Modder Wave

I'll be anxious to here that one!
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« Reply #26 on: 06/11/09 05:49 PM »

When in doubt do as DougD says and consult your manual.  Before I made a call to GM, I decided to consult my manual.  On page 436 it discusses the Electric Brake Control Wiring Provisions. 

"These wiring provisions are included with your vehicle as part of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.  These provisions are for an electric brake controller.  The instrument panel contains blunt cut wires  banghead near the data link connector for the trailer brake controller. (see wires at the top of the picture below)  The harness contains Dark blue auxiliary, red/black battery, light blue brake switch, and white ground."

Also refer to a post by Michigan Silver... http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,111673.0/topicseen.html

Well there you go.  That is why there is no power to the red/black battery wire at the trailer harness.  Haven't run any current down the wire to test it and see if current comes out the other end.  I need some sort of way to test one wire over a long distance. Any ideas?
« Last Edit: 06/13/09 12:10 AM by omlifecrew » Logged
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« Reply #27 on: 06/12/09 01:57 AM »

Ground one end to frame. Then do a resistance check from the other end to frame. If it's one ohm or less, you're good to go!



Don't forget to remove the ground.   Big laughter with tears
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omlifecrew
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« Reply #28 on: 06/12/09 07:55 AM »

Thanks. Thumbs up!

My light bar is now installed and working properly using the plasmaglow trailer 4-pin condenser, which I purchased for less than $30.

In order to keep all wires at the trailer harness of a 2007 avalanche, here is all you have to do...to get power to the red/black trailer wire the ring terminal for the 12-volt power lead for the 7-way trailer connector is located to the left of the power distribution box. It is taped to a wire harness under the power brake booster. Cut the tape to release it from the harness. Then run the wire to the front of the power distribution box and hook the ring on the right post (M8 stud). Since I have power at the trailer now, there is no need to run the purple 12v wire all of the way to the battery.  Here is a pic of the location of the wire.
« Last Edit: 06/13/09 12:05 AM by omlifecrew » Logged
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« Reply #29 on: 06/12/09 11:48 PM »

Remove your license plate from the rear of the truck and drill 2 holes in the bumper, using the wire condenser as a guide. License plate covers the bolts.
« Last Edit: 06/13/09 12:06 AM by omlifecrew » Logged
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« Reply #30 on: 06/13/09 12:03 AM »

Cut off the 4 pin adapter from the wiring condenser and wire tap the 4 wires to their locations on the trailer harness. NOTE: where it says RIGHT TURN/BRAKE, connect it to your yellow trailer wire, and where it says LEFT TURN/BRAKE, connect it to your green trailer wire.  If you don't you will be signaling and changing lanes in opposite directions.  Don't make the same mistake I did.  Shocked

Wire tap wiring condenser's blue wire to the reverse lamp wire from either tail lamp. (easiest place to tap without taking out the light, is underneath the truck where the short, tail light wiring harness, connects to the main wiring harness attached to the frame)

Finally, tap into the red/black 12V+ wire on the trailer harness, with the purple wire from the condenser.

Presto, 1 Firestorm scanning LED light bar installed.  What mod shall I complete next?
« Last Edit: 06/13/09 12:16 AM by omlifecrew » Logged
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« Reply #31 on: 06/15/09 08:54 PM »

Im glad you were able to use your trailer wiring harness and didnt splice into your taillight harness.  CAUTION: the rear lights on 2007 and up gm trucks are controlled by the BCM which turns them on and off with miniature relays soldered onto a board in the engine compartment fuse box. they are not replaceable so if you cook one you have to replace the whole fusebox. Always use your trailer connector for mods.
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« Reply #32 on: 06/15/09 10:44 PM »

BigRedAv are you speaking from experience Big laughter with tears

So are the 03 -06 AV I keep trying to discourage folks from tapping into the vehicle wiring harness.
USE THE TRAILER WIRING
« Last Edit: 06/15/09 10:48 PM by MichiganSilver03 » Logged

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Z66Modder
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« Reply #33 on: 06/15/09 11:43 PM »

Im glad you were able to use your trailer wiring harness and didnt splice into your taillight harness.  CAUTION: the rear lights on 2007 and up gm trucks are controlled by the BCM which turns them on and off with miniature relays soldered onto a board in the engine compartment fuse box. they are not replaceable so if you cook one you have to replace the whole fusebox. Always use your trailer connector for mods.

So are you saying the average person can't do this or no one is able? How about a 29 year ET Veteran.

I have soldered SMD components to fix a motherboard with a pencil soldering iron.  (sub-miniature device for non techies)
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« Reply #34 on: 06/15/09 11:52 PM »

Not if you have a problem with Firestorm and it shorts out. It will fry some very expensive components.

It is just like folks who want footwell light and tap into the wire at the BCM

JMHO

And by the way omlifecrew Pm'ed me and asked how to make it work.
« Last Edit: 06/15/09 11:59 PM by MichiganSilver03 » Logged

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« Reply #35 on: 06/16/09 12:20 AM »

So it should or should not be wired the way I described?
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« Reply #36 on: 06/16/09 12:22 AM »

If you use a electric solder gun you will send a current though the system.
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« Reply #37 on: 06/16/09 12:24 AM »

Yea I know better than that. I run all my accessories on their own 12V power that is fused and controlled by an isolation relay. That way the only impedance added to the factory circuit is minimal from the coil if sub-miniature or solid state relays are employed.  
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« Reply #38 on: 06/16/09 12:25 AM »

So it should or should not be wired the way I described?

All I'll will say I would not do that to my AV I don't know

I can lead a horse to water but I can't make them drink. WTF
« Last Edit: 06/16/09 12:30 AM by MichiganSilver03 » Logged

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« Reply #39 on: 06/16/09 12:31 AM »

I'm done with this topic. Do what you want to do.
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Z66Modder
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« Reply #40 on: 06/16/09 12:32 AM »

If you use a electric solder gun you will send a current though the system.

When soldering or welding on a vehicle, it is best advised to remove the negative post and wait 10 min. to drain backups.

I have a customer who TIG welded his friends pickup without removing the battery from the circuit. He fried every diode in the alternator.

You might ask what about all the Muffler guys welding pipes, do they do that?

Probably not, because the stinger is positive polarity. TIG welding mild steel or SS requires negative polarity and adds to the circuit.

Either way, disconnecting the battery is a safe practice.  Thumbs up!
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« Reply #41 on: 06/16/09 12:35 AM »

PS good luck.  Thumbs up!
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« Reply #42 on: 06/16/09 12:36 AM »

Well...I'm about to pull the wire that I connected to the BCM then and run a fuse in line with that wire to the battery.
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Z66Modder
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« Reply #43 on: 06/16/09 12:39 AM »

Not if you have a problem with Firestorm and it shorts out. It will fry some very expensive components.

It is just like folks who want footwell light and tap into the wire at the BCM

JMHO

And by the way omlifecrew Pm'ed me and asked how to make it work.

My LOF came fused from the factory, is not the Firestorm the same way?


Anyhow, MichiganSilver03 is right about directly using control modules, not a good practice. I am only using basic analog signals to control relay coils.
« Last Edit: 06/16/09 12:51 AM by Z66Modder » Logged


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« Reply #44 on: 06/16/09 12:44 AM »

My LOF came fused from the factory, is not the Firestorm the same way?

Nope
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« Reply #45 on: 06/16/09 12:54 AM »

Nope

Wow, with all the money it costs, one would think it would at least be fused?  Shocked  I'd say Radio Shack here I come if it were mine.
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« Reply #46 on: 06/16/09 01:05 AM »

Talk to you at ya Tuesday Thumbs up!
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« Reply #47 on: 06/16/09 02:25 PM »

So are you saying the average person can't do this or no one is able? How about a 29 year ET Veteran.

I have soldered SMD components to fix a motherboard with a pencil soldering iron.  (sub-miniature device for non techies)

There are about 15 small relays about 1/2 inch in size. It would be possible to unsolder a relay and solder a new one in but it looks like the cuicuit board has multiple layers and it would be very difficult for the average person. I found this out because I took my fusebox apart when my backup lights were stuck on and i traced the problem to the relay. But i had no idea which one was for what. I supose you could use an ohm meter to trace it to the bad relay but my point is to caution people about splicing into their wiring Use the trailer harness
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« Reply #48 on: 06/17/09 02:06 AM »

There are about 15 small relays about 1/2 inch in size. It would be possible to unsolder a relay and solder a new one in but it looks like the cuicuit board has multiple layers and it would be very difficult for the average person. I found this out because I took my fusebox apart when my backup lights were stuck on and i traced the problem to the relay. But i had no idea which one was for what. I supose you could use an ohm meter to trace it to the bad relay but my point is to caution people about splicing into their wiring Use the trailer harness

Understood. I work on multilayer boards all the time as part of my job. I agree this is not for the aveage person and would be ill advised for the untrained person.
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