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Author Topic: Spark Plugs and Wires  (Read 6143 times)
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MR.SMITH
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« on: 05/17/07 07:51 PM »

I haven't even looked yet. I figured I would ask here first. How hard is it to change out plugs and wires? It an 03' 1500 if that matters. Any tricks I need to know to get to them all? Any special tools?
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« Reply #1 on: 05/17/07 07:56 PM »

Save an hour by getting a spark plug boot removal tool.  Or do what I did: buy a 99 cent bag of rubber plier teeth covers from Sears and slip them onto the teeth of your channel locks.  Set them for about 1 inch, and use it them to pull the boots off. 

All of my plugs were fairly accessible, except for the right rear, which I got out with a socket universal joint thing.
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« Reply #2 on: 05/18/07 03:15 AM »

You will need to know what type coils you have for this also.

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,82058.0.html

Sam
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« Reply #3 on: 05/18/07 07:41 AM »

And use only platinum or iridium plugs and a little anti sieze on the threads and dielectric grease on the rubbers.   Only remove plugs from a cold engine!!!!!!!
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« Reply #4 on: 05/18/07 08:55 AM »

I'll trade with you.  I'll put a set in yours if you will in mine.  Cool!


On a stock engine, they are pretty easy.  The last time that I did mine, it took longer to do cylinder #1 than the other 7.  That's where the supercharger sits.
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« Reply #5 on: 05/18/07 08:56 AM »

Dielectric grease...

Apply liberally to each end...
makes it more water proof and easier to remove in future..
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KY_BOB
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« Reply #6 on: 05/18/07 08:58 AM »

Dielectric grease...

Apply liberally to each end...
makes it more water proof and easier to remove in future..

Good tip.
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02 Z-71  Vortech supercharged 3.12 pulley 10psi, 212/218 .558/.563 comp cam, LS6 valve springs, SMC meth injection, 42# injectors, Flex-a-lite Efans, 3"body lift, 33 12.50-17 procomp AT, 17x9 procomp wheels, AVIC-N2 NAV, 4.56 gears, 2500 stall converter, transgo HD2 shift kit, Vette servos, 80mm BBK throttle body, Edelbrock headers, custom exhaust, Cold Fusion nitrous, and too many more mods to list.

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GreatWhite496
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« Reply #7 on: 05/18/07 09:18 AM »

Save an hour by getting a spark plug boot removal tool.  Or do what I did: buy a 99 cent bag of rubber plier teeth covers from Sears and slip them onto the teeth of your channel locks.  Set them for about 1 inch, and use it them to pull the boots off. 

All of my plugs were fairly accessible, except for the right rear, which I got out with a socket universal joint thing.

I found it easier to snatch the wire out of the boot then clamp down on the boot with a pair of channel locks...the boot is a pain in the rear. banghead

Also make sure you have some good extensions and swivels..
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« Reply #8 on: 05/18/07 10:02 AM »

a pain in the rear. banghead

enough said about changing spark plugs!
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I'm guessing you mean that the ball mount is stuck inside the receiver?
Your description is rather lacking.
If my guess is right, soak the receiver tube from both ends with something like PB Blaster or other penetrating lube, and hammer at the ball mount SIDEWAYS a bit, not foreward and aft, break the grip of the rust.
MR.SMITH
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« Reply #9 on: 05/18/07 10:59 AM »

You will need to know what type coils you have for this also.

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,82058.0.html

Sam
banghead banghead Well I already have wires. Who knows if they are right. banghead
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Shanes 02 Avalanche
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« Reply #10 on: 05/19/07 06:35 PM »

Don't worry about saving the factory boots because you do not need them. I changed mine 35k ago and have had no issues. I also changed my wires to 8.5mm it does make a different.

Shane
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« Reply #11 on: 01/15/08 09:33 AM »

What brand or site are your wires from? I been looking for 8mm and higher but no luck so far....thanks. chevy
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« Reply #12 on: 01/15/08 11:58 AM »

I am running MSD wires that i purchased from Summit racing.

Shane
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You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
.....Abr
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« Reply #13 on: 02/05/08 08:14 PM »

Shane,
    Thanks for the reply.


ALL,
           Need help, pls. I am trying to get a handle on possibly a major problem...... I went to buy my spark plugs from PEPBOYS which was the only place where I could find IRIDIUM Plugs/AC DELCO's. Well they mentioned to make sure I gap the plugs to .060.....But the receipt says not to change the original spec which is .040.
After going to NAPA/ADVANCED/AUTO ZONE, they all had mixed signals....... Change it to .060 because that's what our system says..... Leave the gap to .040 because its an IRIDIUM plug....... Change it to .060 if they are platinum......AUTOZONE said .040 regardless because my VIN ends with a "T".... I GAPPED MY AT .050. Is it SAFE HuhHuhHuhHuh? banghead

Next area of concern......
SPARK PLUG WIRES. I went to NAPA and they want to know if I have a DELPHI or MITSUBISHI coils......... Well I did not know about this two ignition system possibly being in my truck. I  come back to the site and thanks to the input I figured out that I have the MITSUBISHI based off the part number.....
I go back to NAPA and they have none in stock Sad
I go to...
PEPBOYS = They have several but don't ask for which COIL system I have. They had AC DELCO'S/TAYLOR'S and AUTOLITES 7MM.
AUTOZONE = They have some very cheap brands that the whole set were not more that $30 - $50 and did not ask for COIL system.
ADVANCED = They really had me thinking of this website.... They asked me which COIL system, good. They only show for my truck MELCO and DELPHI!!!!! What do I say then...... Left the store and now I am here..... banghead

Last thing...... My old plugs with 60K miles, were wet(watery brownish) and based on the smell it is gas and almost a hint of oil Help me!

 banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead banghead
« Last Edit: 02/05/08 08:22 PM by ALACRAN » Logged

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Canadian AV
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« Reply #14 on: 02/05/08 08:30 PM »

Easy fella.
      As long as the plugs rare a tan brown colour your OK.   Lots of people Like the Taylor Thundervolt wires and NGK Iridium's.  You don't Gap platinum or Iridium plugs
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« Reply #15 on: 02/05/08 08:36 PM »

Thanks Canadian AV,
        Its frustating to know that the professionals are not sure of what to sell for my baby. Well, going to your remarks.... Is it safe for me to have gapped the plugs to .050? Is it okay for me to just get the 7mm wires vice looking for 8 or 8.5mm due to my stock coils? The color is a rare tan but why are they wet? Thanks again.... chevy
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« Reply #16 on: 02/05/08 09:24 PM »

I gapped my Platinum's when I installed them at 75k. I removed them for the Iridium's at 123k which I also gapped. I have had no issues with  gapping. I went to Summit Racing when I ordered my 8.5mm MSD wires, and am very pleased with them.

Shane
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You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
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« Reply #17 on: 02/08/08 07:49 AM »

Gents,

        This might sound like over kill but.....  Does it matter if I buy plugs that are not specific for my MUTSUBISHI coils? Why not? Next is, does it matter if I gapp my Iridium plugs to .050? Why not? Just want to be sure before I go spending more money that I can use somewhere else in the truck. Thanks for anyone taking the time to read my concerns.

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« Reply #18 on: 02/08/08 10:06 AM »

The problem with gapping iridium plugs is that it's easy to bend the fine wire center electrode when changing the gap. If you do that you've pretty much just trashed a brand new plug.

Spark plugs won't be specific for any given coil, only for the engine/application.
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« Reply #19 on: 02/08/08 12:22 PM »

Thanks for your time,

        I meant PLUG WIRES for my MITSUBISHI coils. Does it matter if the wires the stores try to sell me are not specific for my application. Several have mentioned not even seeing my coils in the data base. Some of the other names for my application are MELCO and DELPHI coils.  The plugs were pre-gapped to .040 and the stores were telling to have them at .060 so I gapped them to .050. I did it properly without braking the tip. Is .050 a problem for my engine?
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« Reply #20 on: 02/08/08 02:22 PM »

oem gap is .040 , delphi coils are stamped 15005218 , mitsubishi coils are stamped 12558693, the wires are different between the two , the plugs are the same!  hope this helps  JIM
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« Reply #21 on: 02/08/08 02:25 PM »

The plug wires do not matter for the coils. here is a picture of my MSD wires. When I bought them they did not mention a difference.
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You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
.....Abr
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« Reply #22 on: 02/08/08 11:24 PM »

Save an hour by getting a spark plug boot removal tool.  Or do what I did: buy a 99 cent bag of rubber plier teeth covers from Sears and slip them onto the teeth of your channel locks.  Set them for about 1 inch, and use it them to pull the boots off. 

All of my plugs were fairly accessible, except for the right rear, which I got out with a socket universal joint thing.
How did you get the last plugs did you get them from the bottom or on top?
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« Reply #23 on: 02/08/08 11:29 PM »

I did all mine from the top. The right rear was the hardest but do able. It took my about 30 minutes to change all 8 and install the new wires. I had my Av up on stands cause I was draining the oil at the same time.
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You cannot help the poor by destroying the rich.
You cannot strengthen the weak by weakening the strong.
You cannot bring about prosperity by discouraging thrift.
You cannot lift the wage earner up by pulling the wage payer down.
You cannot further the brotherhood of man by inciting class hatred.
You cannot build character and courage by taking away people's initiative and independence.
You cannot help people permanently by doing for them, what they could and should do for themselves.
.....Abr
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« Reply #24 on: 02/08/08 11:50 PM »

delphi lists two different wire sets depending on which coils are installed....from delphi's online catalog....
 
 
 
 
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