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Author Topic: NO-FRILLS AUX. input for $3.00  (Read 20036 times)
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MS03 2500
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« Reply #75 on: 09/17/08 10:08 PM »

im nervous to try this mod since i did the lux upgrade my onstar doesnt seem to be rite at times

No issue moosc that part is the same.
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« Reply #76 on: 10/27/08 05:30 PM »

If you do not have something plugged into the aux does the XM still work?

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Web
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« Reply #77 on: 10/27/08 05:33 PM »

Yes, just like it wasn't there....
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« Reply #78 on: 11/08/08 10:47 PM »

just marking for future reference  Thumbs up!
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« Reply #79 on: 11/17/08 12:00 AM »

Thanks Jaywyatt-
Saved me hundreds - half an hour was worth the clean install, when all I wanted was this aux input.


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« Reply #80 on: 11/17/08 07:16 AM »

 Welcome! Glad it worked for you Thumbs up!
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« Reply #81 on: 11/25/08 07:08 PM »

I did it!

Happy and not happy with it though.  On the positive side, it looks OEM and works perfectly.  I broke into the XM behind the glovebox.

On the negative side, not happy with the cleanliness of it behind the scenes.  I've got a network cable soldered to the switching headphone jack, and it strikes me as being way too fragile.  I looped the wires through the tiny holes on the jack and soldered them in.  All of the wires face the same direction except for "#5" which I put backwards to avoid contact with number 4....those are *REALLY* close together.  Put electrical tape between them as best I could and then wrapped the whole works in electrical tape (fairly hideous, but at least it offers more protection to it than without).   

Additionally the headphone jack wouldn't quite poke through the two-cubby panel in the center console far enough to screw on the retaining ring.  Wound up using some LocTite-brand superglue to affix it.  I'm assuming this is *NOT* going to be a long term solution as superglue tends to break in applications like this, correct?  I did rough the back of the plastic a bit first. Can anyone recommend a good glue to hold that thing on? 

Will say that the sound quality is surprisingly perfect though.  No pop-hiss when plugging into the jack.  And shockingly no interference from the iPhone that's connected (which is a device that is notorious for interference).  Even listened to Pandora over 3G through it and didn't see interference.  No alternator whine either.  I'm stunned.

Thanks much for the write up!
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« Reply #82 on: 11/25/08 07:32 PM »

I had the same problem with the retaining nut... shaved the plastic around the hole (from the back) to make it thinner...got it to screw on... Wave
« Last Edit: 11/25/08 07:37 PM by Web » Logged
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WHAT HAS SCIENCE DONE?


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« Reply #83 on: 11/26/08 12:47 AM »

Awesome, may well just do that then....I started to shave it a bit but didn't have anything except sandpaper and a flathead.
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« Reply #84 on: 11/26/08 07:28 AM »

I took a dremel to the back side of the panel to thin it out, so the jack threads would stick out the front.  The dremel cut it down quite a bit to get it thin enough.  Supe Glue will probably not hold up to continuous pushing in of the plug.
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MODS: HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight Strobes, Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns
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« Reply #85 on: 11/27/08 04:18 AM »

Thanks, yes the superglue will be evicted soon, once I get moved back down to Cali in a couple weeks (where I know several people with dremel tools  Big laughter with tears).  It's also somewhat held in by friction of the threads as well though, so hopefully it'll survive for a bit.
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« Reply #86 on: 12/22/08 08:13 AM »

I just did this to my Avy yesterday.  As it has already been said, the absolute best $3 I have ever spent.  I went in behind the glove box and was done within 15 minutes.  It threw me off at first seeing two black wires with white stripes at the XM module, but figured out pretty quickly that it was the black and white wire that was grouped with the brown and green wire.  I just didn't see it until I cut away some tape.  Thanks again for the great idea, I am absolutley loving the ability to just plug and play!!!  Thumbs up!
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« Reply #87 on: 01/05/09 03:27 PM »

I did this mod yesterday, and it seems I'm having a problem.

Whenever I plug my cable into the adapter only the left speakers work, when I pull it out about half way, both sides work.

My wiring looks good.  Help me!
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« Reply #88 on: 01/05/09 03:34 PM »

Check your cable your plugging in... I thought I had one extra at home.. but it was for video also, so only worked like you stated...plugged in part ways...

The correct one should have 3 metal contacts, separated by 2 insulator bans...
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« Reply #89 on: 01/05/09 04:18 PM »

Hell that was my problem

I bought this cable
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102950

instead of this one
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102949

Looks like I need to go get the appropriate one now.  Roll Eyes


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« Reply #90 on: 01/05/09 04:21 PM »

I like easy fixes.... Tongue
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« Reply #91 on: 01/05/09 05:42 PM »

Me too!  Thumbs up!
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« Reply #92 on: 01/06/09 11:18 PM »

I assume that the volume button on the steering wheel will still control the volume since it is played through the head unit? The Aux input is for MP3's only? is there a Aux input for IPOD?
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« Reply #93 on: 01/06/09 11:37 PM »

All controls work the same... just the input is changed from XM to whatever is plugged into the aux. I play a ipod through it ... just use a cord like mentioned in post 89.
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« Reply #94 on: 01/10/09 03:04 PM »

I need some help. I've got the bose 6 disc w/o xm. I know I can't do this mod because I don't have xm, but I was thinking I could connect my jack directly into the back of the radio where the xm module is normally plugged in. What I need is 2 things:

1st, if anyone knows that this is not possible please stop me now.
2nd, if anyone has or knows where to get a diagram for those pins I would really appreciate it as I'm pretty much stuck without it.

Thanks for any help.

P.S. This is my first post so please forgive me for any forum faux pas.
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« Reply #95 on: 01/10/09 04:19 PM »

If the wires are there, it seems like it would work to me.
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2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, On*Star, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight Strobes, Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns
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« Reply #96 on: 01/17/09 02:06 PM »

If I wanted to install a switch to switch between the two since I leave my cable plugged in all the time (its under the cupholder in the console)
Would I just install a switch across the common wire?

Im just to lazy to unplug it rofl

Thanks!
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« Reply #97 on: 01/17/09 08:23 PM »

If I wanted to install a switch to switch between the two since I leave my cable plugged in all the time (its under the cupholder in the console)
Would I just install a switch across the common wire?

Im just to lazy to unplug it rofl

Thanks!
No, I don't think that will work.  This particular socket has two springs in it.  When you plug the cable into it, it breakes the "through" connection for BOTH wires and connects them to the two conductors on the plug.  If you leave the cable plugged in, it bypasses both wires.  You would have to install a double throw switch (switches both wires).  If you do that, there's no need for the little Radio Shack socket, which handles that for you.  You would just hardwire a new double splice across the double-throw switch.
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2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, On*Star, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight Strobes, Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns
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« Reply #98 on: 01/17/09 09:50 PM »

No, I don't think that will work.  This particular socket has two springs in it.  When you plug the cable into it, it breakes the "through" connection for BOTH wires and connects them to the two conductors on the plug.  If you leave the cable plugged in, it bypasses both wires.  You would have to install a double throw switch (switches both wires).  If you do that, there's no need for the little Radio Shack socket, which handles that for you.  You would just hardwire a new double splice across the double-throw switch.

So, I would put a double throw swtich across the L/R audio wires?
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« Reply #99 on: 01/18/09 09:57 AM »

Yeah, it would be a sort of double splice switch.  When you throw the switch, it would change the (+) head unit connection from the (+) XM wire to the (+) new wire.  It would also change the (-) head unit connection from (-) XM wire to the (-) new wire.  The (+) and (-) wires go to the new AUX cable.  That's actually what happens when you plug the cable into the Radio Shack adapter; it takes care of that for you.  If you leave the cable plugged into this adapter, you will never get XM radio (the connection has been switched).  To do what you want, you need to hardwire the cable to a double throw switch instead. 
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2004 Silver Birch AV 4x4, Leather, CD-Changer, On*Star, DVD, chrome steps
MODS: HIDs, Full-Time Amber DRLs, All-8-on-Hi-Beams Mod, A/C Vent LEDs, Metalcast Engine cover, Headlight Strobes, Backup Light Strobes, Sail Panel LEDs, 81-LED Lighted Bowtie, Color-changing LED Headlight Accents, Black Flames, 20" Dub X-Wang Wheels, Power Locking Tailgate, Train Horns
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Chevy Avalanche Fan Club Forum  |  Avalanche Owners Zone  |  Chevy Avalanche Audio/Video & Electronics  |  A/V: Factory Integration & Adapters (Moderator: Loggie)  |  Topic: NO-FRILLS AUX. input for $3.00
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