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 1 
 on: Today at 20:24 
Started by Macc - Last post by MS03 2500
The hesitation is more than likely that p0300 random misfire. That maybe caused by a bad cat convertor

 2 
 on: Today at 19:45 
Started by dpmath - Last post by 2004Slickside
My wife's 04 Avalanche headliner is starting to sag in a few spots and I was contemplating taking the shell down and redo it once I find the material to match, but also was looking at some of the moldings and other things that need to be removed to do it, don't want to break any pieces and make the job any bigger than it already is.....

I searched for headliner but did not see any threads on how to do it? Can anyone point me to the thread referenced above?
Most sagging headliner material happens because the material actually separates from its foam backing and this cannot be repaired.  Only way I have found to fix is to take material completely off, carefully brush the separated foam off the the hard styrofoam headliner pan with a hard bristle hand brush, and then apply real 3M spray glue for uphostery to both the pan and new foam-backed material.  Let dry a minute or two - then stick together. You get one try - so start on one side, fold over, apply more glue to an area of both material and pan, and smooth as you go - work your way across until you have the entire pan covered smoothly.  It going to be difficult to get the color to match.  So-Fro Fabrics is a brick and mortar store that has some foam backed headliner material - I typically got black from them.  Maybe you can order it from them, or from an on-line source in the correct color.  Good luck

 3 
 on: Today at 18:59 
Started by uconnjack - Last post by uconnjack
So to dig up my older thread, I finally found some time to do the additional troubleshooting I wanted:

First, I checked the front wheels for play.  Drivers side seemed to have some slop, so I changed the wheel hub assembly.  No change in the noise.

Second, I bought two junker front axles and disassembled the CV joints to make splined "blanks".  I removed my front axles and replaced them with these blanks (to keep my wheel hub/bearings stable), essentially disconnecting my front wheels from the front differential.  No change in the noise under normal 2WD.  HOWEVER, now when I engage 4WDHi, the noise does not change at all (before it would get louder and more constant in 4WD).

Third, I removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case/front diff.  Sound was the same as above.

So since the wheel bearing replacement made no difference, and the sound was still there when totally disconnecting the front differential from all movement, it takes the front end portion of the drive train out of the picture.  This basically just leaves the transfer case, rear driveshaft, and rear diff.   

Like I said before, I rebuilt my rear diff a couple years ago, so I would be surprised if bearings went bad there again already.   Plus, when the front portion of the drive train was connected and 4WD engaged, the noise would be discernibly louder and constant.  If it was the rear portion of the drive train, I see no reason why the sound would change with 4WD engaged since the load on the rear wouldn't change.

So I am pretty sure it must be the transfer case.  I think that when the front drive train is connected, the sound gets worse in the transfer case with 4WD engaged because there is actual load added to the system.  But with the front drive train disconnected, the transfer case noise doesn't change because there is no load (its just spinning a blank yoke).

Does this logic make sense?  Any opposing opinions?  Thanks!

 4 
 on: Today at 18:27 
Started by Macc - Last post by Macc
Thanks for asking. Iíd hate to jinx myself but after a full day of driving to and from work today no lights came on.  :thumbsup:
I think it might have worked. Now I juts have to figure out the hesitation issue. If itís not 1 thing itís another.

 5 
 on: Today at 17:14 
Started by burkeyj - Last post by burkeyj
Update.  Found that the unlock Relay for the rear doors and the rear tailgate in this gen Avalanche is actually integrated into the Fuse block that is on the drivers side of the dash.  matched up the part number of the fuse block on ebay and ordered a used replacement for $35. Can get them new for around $90.  Only took about 15 min to swap and it fixed the problem.

 6 
 on: Today at 15:59 
Started by old skool - Last post by old skool
After poking around the fuse box next to the driver side kick panel, it's magically starting like normal now.  :wave: :thumbsup: Thanks for your help ygmn. My conclusion is, it must have been a loose wire.

 7 
 on: Today at 14:39 
Started by ELJEFE - Last post by BainMan
Check the high and low side refrigerant pressures. Possibly low on refrigerant, but you need to measure to know for sure.

 8 
 on: Today at 13:57 
Started by old skool - Last post by ygmn
Look at this remote start as from my experience reading this forum... tends to be issue.

 9 
 on: Today at 13:13 
Started by old skool - Last post by old skool
Ok, I was able to get it started by jumping the solenoid to the starter...don't know why that didn't work earlier...but it still won't start from the switch. I do have an after market remote start on it.

 10 
 on: Today at 12:55 
Started by old skool - Last post by ygmn
Hmmmmmmmm strange.
Does not gage cluster have volt meter?

Any aftermarket alarm or remote start or anything NON GM?

IF NO and battery is good and voltage stays up when you turn key
I would say ignition switch but before that I would remove starter and have tested and check if power getting to starter solenoid.


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