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 on: Today at 11:29 am 
Started by Agent M - Last post by enoniam
I've had very good luck with crimps and taps.  Work for years.  Obviously the more exposed a connection is the more reason to use a more robust method but I've had taps work for years under the hood.

 on: Today at 11:25 am 
Started by james21 - Last post by enoniam
It's a once in a life time event, don't forget pictures.

enoniam is in Kentucky with about a million of his new friends

Yeah, who knew that the "path of Totality" was really a "path of incredible traffic jams", LOL!

 on: Today at 11:23 am 
Started by moosc - Last post by Hugz
Is anything too much at this point?

 on: Today at 09:00 am 
Started by Agent M - Last post by redheadedrod
How did you connect these radios?

Anything other than GM's preferred welding or more realistic soldering and using heat shrink tubing is prone to eventually pulling apart. Even the best crimps don't hold for ever as they move around the strands can break individually or mechanically loosen and if you used taps your lucky if they work more than a year due to oxidation. If you just twisted the wires together and taped them together or used wire nuts then feel lucky it worked at all.

Not likely related regardless.

The ONLY place that the interior lighting and headlights are in the same place is your headlight switch. Try popping out your headlight switch, cleaning the contacts using a q-tip and rubbing alcohol then use electric gel in the socket and reconnect. I use bulb grease generally since it can handle the high temps and is made to prevent corrosion. If your socket doesn't clean up with the alchohol you CAN try using a small jewlers screwdriver and try scraping the oxidation off but tends to be difficult to scrape it off evenly. I have seen electronic steel brushes too that can be used to try and scrape the oxidation off.

If this doesn't work then buying a new headlight switch SHOULD take care of your issue but is likely just a bad connection in your switch.


 on: Today at 08:48 am 
Started by davey73 - Last post by redheadedrod
Any exterior body steel other than hood, doors or front fenders will be a weld on item unless replacing the whole cab..

My truck has been great for rust until past year... Rust is now "exploading" from all of the normal locations... Hood, rear 1/4's, rear in front of rear wheels...
Thinking about grabbing some old doors I have from another vehicle and learn how to weld body panels myself...


 on: Today at 08:42 am 
Started by TipTop - Last post by Vaeagleav
Products like GM seal lube have some good comments :


Another option would be to try getting just the seal gasket from a company like Steele Rubber :


 on: Today at 08:17 am 
Started by TipTop - Last post by TipTop
I've read the forum on this matter and have already snaked the drain hoses.  But the seal is the problem in the back corner right over driver's head.  From what I can tell, for 2002, GM did not have a seal separate from the glass.  No way I will replace the glass.  Any ideas?  If necessary, I'll jury rig some kind of thicker seal with chemicals or sprays. 

 on: Today at 05:03 am 
Started by ygmn - Last post by ygmn
This topic has been moved to Problems: Basic Electrical.


 on: Today at 04:35 am 
Started by Agent M - Last post by Agent M
I have a breaker 1-9, and an in dash dvd/radio, but those have been in for.....years now....quite a while now....

 on: Yesterday at 09:39 pm 
Started by Flint4x4 - Last post by MS03 2500

Happens all the time when you buy used. It's not even a for sale by owner it's a dealer.


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