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How to change the Fuel Pump.

INresponse

SM 2008
SM 2007
Full Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
3,026
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Southern Nevada
OK, I search a bit before I started this and didn't really find any how to info.  Alaska AV posted up some pictures once, but forgot the how to part.  :E:  Lets see how this thread works out.

First, here is the photo of the AV on the ramps, I also had to use a floor jack to lift the rear a little, probably due to lack of know how and how to's.

Second photo shows where the fuel tank normally is under the drive side of the AV.

Third photo is the fuel tank out and cleaned up.
 

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OK, here we are at the connection section.  I skipped over the 2 bolts that hold up the straps securing the tank tot he frame.  If you can't figure that part out you probably don't need to read the rest of this.    :cool:

First I will show you the connections at the rear of the tank for the fill line and vent hose.  The fill line is the larger opening and the vent is the smaller one.  Both have about a 12" hose that is clamped onto these fittings and onto the connections on the bank top rear part of the tank.

Second is the connections at the front right side of the tank.  Actually there are three connections here, one of the hoses stayed with the fuel tank.  These connect into the Vapor Canistor...which I broke and will show a bit later.   :E:

Third are the connections for the fuel feed and return lines, which are at the front top left of the tank...pretty much hidden from view until you start lowering the tank.
 

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Here we are at the electrical connections.  These wires come from the front to somewhere near the center of the tank.  There are 2 connections that go tot he top of the fuel pump.

First shows the wire with the two connections.

Second shows the easy plug to disconnect.  You simply lift the tab on top to free it from the retaining tab thingy (technical term) and pull the plug off the connection.

Third shows the more difficult connection.  There will be a blue or gray retaining clip (arrow #1) that needs to be removed first, to allow the retaining clip to be released.  Don't worry, if your is like mine it is brittle by now and will fall apart while trying to remove it.  (n)  Once that piece of junk is out of the way you can push on the release tab (also at arrow #1)....and maybe insert a small screwdriver by arrow #2...to release another retaining tab thingy which will allow you to pull the plug off the connection.
 

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OK, now for the fun part. 

When disconnecting the 3 fitting at the front of the vapor canistor you have to squeaze, or pinch, the edges of the fittings, the part that is open and appears like you should not have to squeaze there.  :rolleyes:

Here is a photo of the vapor canistor, this is mounted at the top right front along side the tank.  You may want to remove the 2 bolts and drop this at the same time to give you more room to work and manuever the tank.  Not positive, but it would be easier and cheaper than breaking something.

Third is a photo of the end of the vapor canistor where I broke off one of the connections.  I circled where there is suppose to be a nipple still attached to the box, but mine is still in on of the fittings.  But don't worry too much, the new canistor is only about $150.00.   :9:
 

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I cheated and cut a hole in the floor like Alaska AV did.  :love:
 

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cadboy1 said:
I cheated and cut a hole in the floor like Alaska AV did.  :love:

Not everyone wants to cheat and would prefer doing it the hard way!   That being said I will be cutting the hole in the floor while waiting for the replacement parts to get here.   :laugh:   So much for ordering the fuel pump in advance...I had a gut feeling something would break while doing the R+R.

FOR THOSE OF YOU WITH A 2500 MODEL AV, CHECK PAGE 5, POST 121 OF THIS THREAD FOR PHOTOS ON WHERE TO CUT THE WHOLE IN THE FLOOR.  IT IS DIFFERENT THAN THE 1500 MODELS.

Thanks to 02TOM for posting this helpful information.


 
OK, this is as far as I can get today.

First is a photo fo the fule pump, removed from the tank.

Second is a photo of the connections on the top of the pump.

Third is the fuel line connections.  These opaque looking fittings on the lines have to be pinched to release the fuel line.
 

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LOL. I love this thread!

For fathers day I got a Pump rebuild kit, New pump(no body or fuel level arm) the hoses and filters that go in/on the pump body. $50

It rides between my amps under the back seat. Next time it goes out I can be running in 10 min!!!!!
 
I changed the fuel pump on our Taurus about a month ago; what a PITA. The only reason I can see that the manufacturers don't provide access panels is that they don't want you to change them out yourself; they would rather make the $550 more than the parts cost. I was able to buy just the replacement pump for $42 on eBay. You have to take the pump canister and fuel level float apart to put the pump inside the canister. The pump also came with two new filter socks.
 
I just read on alldata that my 01 Olds has a access panel in the trunk for fuel pump changing so now both my vehicles are quick jobs  :love:
 
IM going to have to change the fuel pump on my 02--when key is turned off i lose pressure and im only getting 50 psi and it should be 55 to 62,where would i find the pump only and i like the idea of cutting open the floor for access who has the measurements for the hole :)
        thanks
 
Here's the eBay seller I bought the one for the Taurus from; they have both the fuel pump repair kit and the whole fuel pump for the Av.

global-automotive

Just cut/paste their name from above and look for their store.

The whole pump is: Item number: 150243417851 (costs $95.00)

The repair kit is item number: 160179070540 (costs $39.95)

So far, so good with my replacement pump for the Taurus. The car was was stalling out when driving after hot starts and hasn't done it since I replaced the pump.
 
Do Not buy a Napa pump!!   I tried to save a few bucks.....the fuel gauge did not work and the pump died after 30 minutes leaving me stuck in the road on the way to work.   :E: 

INresponse < :beating: > Napa

I bought a replacment 'pump only' from Ebay...Global Automotive I believe.   It also came with the filter socks and a new hose to connect it.

Before you order any pump or parts make sure the part numbers haven't changed and the parts are correct for your vehicle.
It appears the part numbers posted by MyBigToy were correct 6 months ago but may have changed.
See post #61 for links to the above listed parts.
But still make sure you double check the parts are for your vehicle.
 
Did this happen today and you had to pull the tank again ???
 
It happened 2 weeks ago.  I ended up getting my first tow truck ride home.  I had cut the access hole when the tank was out so I quickly reinstalled the original pump...it was still working, just having issues.  That swap took about 15 minutes.  Last week I got the parts in the mail and swapped out the pump in the factory module and had it installed in about an hour.

But thanks to Napa's piece of cr-junk pump, Napa and Michael Waltrip can kiss my tail pipe! :cuss:
 
Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the warning
 
MichiganSilver03 said:
Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the warning

It was definately a bummer.  I am going to send a letter to Michael Waltrip and demand my money back.  Actually Napa said to bring it back so hopefully I can get a refund.
 
Gm parts should prevent this next time...
 
ygmn said:
Gm parts should prevent this next time...

I wanted to do that, but they donot sell just the pump and they wanted $560.00 at the local dealer for the 'module' which is the housing, sending unit and pump.  I was not a big fan of Napa but the part stores around here are nothing like the ones I was familiar within the Detroit area so if you find a place that actually has a part in stock you better jump on it or you get to wait until another one comes in next week or so.

The pump I ordered off Ebay is actually the same part used in the stock GM assembly so I felt good with that.
 
I bought a Delphi unit aftermarket and it cost less than a Carter unit  :D
 
I found and ACDelco at Summit for $285.00 and the carter was $315.00. Mine is still acting up I am hoping it will last until i can burn off as much gas as possible. I have 3/4's still in my tank and do not want to deal with dropping that much weight. I am going to check out EBay also to see what I can find. My Av is starting great and running really good most of the time, once in a while she will hesitate but does not ever die or go below 500RPM when hesitating. She only died once in the garage when I was messing with the intake. I dumped 2 cans of heat in the tank to see if that helps. I am praying it is bad gas but I have a gut feeling it is a pump.

My Datsun 280Z had 386k and was 27 years old when I sold her and still had the factory fuel pump in her. My wife's 93 Honda Civic has 200k and is 15 years old and still has her original pump. Why do GM pumps go out so soon? My friends Focus just lost his fuel pump at 57k. So I get to practice on his before doing mine. Although half of his gas tank is wrapped in heat shield that has to be cut in order to remove the tank.
 
Shane.  If you dare, I would with my 20/20 hindsight, fold up the bottom of the back seat, cut the 3 sides of a square in the carpet and padding where you see in the photos above, and use a cut off wheel to cut the floor of the AV.  There is room between the floor and the tank so if you are careful you wont come close to the tank or fittings.  I did not enjoy dropping the tank but i was very glad I cut the hole when I did.

Also, consider buying the fuel pump itself and not the entire assembly.  It is way cheaper and easy to swap out.  It comes with hoses that are needed and in tank filters, everything else can be reused.
 
MyBigToy said:
Here's the eBay seller I bought the one for the Taurus from; they have both the fuel pump repair kit and the whole fuel pump for the Av.

global-automotive

Just cut/paste their name from above and look for their store.

The whole pump is: Item number: 150243417851 (costs $95.00)

The repair kit is item number: 160179070540 (costs $39.95)

So far, so good with my replacement pump for the Taurus. The car was was stalling out when driving after hot starts and hasn't done it since I replaced the pump.

Read post #61 before buying .... and then double check the part numbers haven't changed again.

Shane, go with this repair kit.  It was identical to the pump inside the stock assembly.
 
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