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Author Topic: Rear axle shaft removal  (Read 7573 times)
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xceebeex
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« on: 10/11/09 04:43 PM »

Well it looks like I am going to be removing the rear axle shafts soon to replace my backing plates. I have a couple questions:

First, approximately how long does it take? I have a 04 Z71 with the locker. I do pretty much all my work myself so I am fairly mechanically inclined so I am not a noob. Reason I want an estimate is because I don't want to start at 9 at night and be stuck there til 3 in the morning.

Second, should I replace the bolts for the diff cover after I remove it? If so, should I get the GM kit that comes with the bolts, cover and gasket for like $50 or so?

Thanks!
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« Reply #1 on: 10/11/09 04:50 PM »

The time it takes is totally dependent on how fast you work, how your garage is set up, hand tools, lift etc..

I personally wouldn't buy the kit, there isn't any pressure against the cover, I may be wrong, but I would use RTV to seal it.

Take tires off, take cover off, remove bolt holding shaft in rear end, pull out shaft, push axle in, remove clip, pull axle.

doesn't sound like much, but anything can make it take longer, especially if it is your first time.
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« Reply #2 on: 10/11/09 05:41 PM »

I am still having problems with the coppermine album  Sad

So I hope these PDFs help you.
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xceebeex
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« Reply #3 on: 10/11/09 06:03 PM »

I am still having problems with the coppermine album  Sad

So I hope these PDFs help you.

Thanks for those! One thing I noticed is that it said to install the "new" pinion shaft locking bolt, does that mean I have to buy a new one of those as well? I want to make sure I have all the parts that I need before I take the truck apart.

So far I have both backing plates and plan on buying a gasket and the axle seals, is there anything else?


Also, another question that I thought of; can I remove the ebrake cable without compressing the spring? Or will the spring have to be compressed?
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« Reply #4 on: 10/11/09 06:14 PM »

Thanks for those! One thing I noticed is that it said to install the "new" pinion shaft locking bolt, does that mean I have to buy a new one of those as well? I want to make sure I have all the parts that I need before I take the truck apart.

So far I have both backing plates and plan on buying a gasket and the axle seals, is there anything else?


Also, another question that I thought of; can I remove the ebrake cable without compressing the spring? Or will the spring have to be compressed?
When I changed my gears and my seals.... I did not install an "new" pinion shaft locking bolt. The R&R does not say anything about compressing the ebrake spring  Huh
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xceebeex
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« Reply #5 on: 10/12/09 10:18 AM »

When I changed my gears and my seals.... I did not install an "new" pinion shaft locking bolt. The R&R does not say anything about compressing the ebrake spring  Huh

Ok gotcha, I just looked at that pdf. Where is the equalizer bar located? I can't tell from the picture. It looks like once you release the cable there it creates enough slack to disconnect the ebrake cable.

I would still like to get an estimate of the time it would take once I have the vehicle on jack stands and the tires and rotors off. Conceptually it doesn't seem like a lot of time as long as I can get the bolts off the diff cover fairly easy. Anyone done this recently and could give me an estimate? Am I talking 2 hours or 5 hours?
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« Reply #6 on: 10/12/09 11:04 AM »

The equalizer bar is where the three cable come together. I would plan on about 3 hours (but I have not replaced any backing plates).... the c-clips on the shafts can be tricky to take out. My seals were a pain, one of them bent my seal puller.
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xceebeex
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« Reply #7 on: 10/12/09 01:10 PM »

The equalizer bar is where the three cable come together. I would plan on about 3 hours (but I have not replaced any backing plates).... the c-clips on the shafts can be tricky to take out. My seals were a pain, one of them bent my seal puller.

Ok, but roughly where do the three come together? I would like to narrow down my hunting around for all the cables coming together if I can.

Good thing you mentioned a seal puller, I didn't realize that these seals had to be pulled out. Hopefully autozone has a seal puller to rent, because I don't own one. I am assuming that the seals should be replaced, or should I just leave them alone? I have just shy of 60k miles on the truck.
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« Reply #8 on: 10/12/09 02:10 PM »

Ok, but roughly where do the three come together? I would like to narrow down my hunting around for all the cables coming together if I can.

Good thing you mentioned a seal puller, I didn't realize that these seals had to be pulled out. Hopefully autozone has a seal puller to rent, because I don't own one. I am assuming that the seals should be replaced, or should I just leave them alone? I have just shy of 60k miles on the truck.
On the drivers side frame just in front of the rear tire.

The seals..... well, if they are not leaking now why change them  Huh but if you nick them during your R&R  Sad  and if they do start leaking you have to remove the shafts again to get to them  Angry
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xceebeex
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« Reply #9 on: 10/12/09 02:21 PM »

On the drivers side frame just in front of the rear tire.

The seals..... well, if they are not leaking now why change them  Huh but if you nick them during your R&R  Sad  and if they do start leaking you have to remove the shafts again to get to them  Angry

True, but I imagine I could nick new seals just as easily as I could the existing seals. As far as I know the seals are not leaking, so I am wondering if I should even bother trying to replace them. I will just have to be careful removing the axle shaft and putting it back in.
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2004 Z71 WBH Avalanche
2007 Dodge Caliber SXT Sport
2001 Suzuki SV650S
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