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Author Topic: EBCM (ABS Module) Replacement and Tips!  (Read 43510 times)
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ckusnierek
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« on: 07/21/10 05:55 PM »

I just finished replacing my EBCM and learned a few things along the way that might help a few people...

A little history...

ABS/Brake Warning lights and DIC message "Service Brake System" Intermittent for 3 months..
Eventually lights and warning as soon as the car was in drive and moving.

Dealer scan showed Code: C0265

G110 Re Ground not effective.

Last week I removed my Module and sent it out for repair. Got it back installed and all is good now  Thumbs up!
Total repair was $150 Shipped back top me insured and $7.50 for me to ship it to them. I got 2 day turn around and was very pleased with the whole experience.


Anyway back to removal and instillation!

Removing the module is pretty straight forward unless you have stripped screws. Then your in trouble.

Removal:
Disconnect Neg. Battery Terminal
Remove the 60a ABS fuse. (compartment right behind the battery)
Engage parking brake
Jack up the Av (use jack stands for safety)
Shimmy under the drivers side. The module is located on the frame rail right under the drivers seat. (see pic)
!!!DO NOT REMOVE ANY BRAKE FITTINGS!!!
There are 2 connectors visible at this point. The pump connector and main connector (see pics)
There is a red retaining clip on the main connector the must be removed before you can pull the connector off.
Be careful not to lose this clip.
Once the Pump and Main connectors are off now it's time to remove the (4)T20 Torx bolts that hold the module to the valve assembly.
I just happened to have a 5"x5" mirror with magnets on the back that was perfect for seeing the top of the module.
If you go to Wal-Mart in the school supplies section they sell a locker mirror that is just the same.
Trust me you will be glad you have it. Stick it to the body right above the module.
Now you have a perfect clear view of the top of the module and you still have both hands free.
Depending on where you do this and time of day you may need a drop light under the Av with you.
Depending on the age and use of your truck the bolts may be completely clean and easy to remove or they could be full of mud and grime and rusty.
The the bolt head looks like it is full of junk spray a lil WD-40 on the tops of the bolt heads and let it soak for 15 minuets.
Then take a 1/16 drill bit just in your fingers and work it in to the top of the bolt head turning it clock wise working all the just loose.
Use compressed air to blow off any remaining debris.

I uses a 2" "L" style T20 Torx Wrench. I had the socket and driver but the L wrench was much easier.

Using the Mirror to see the bolt heads clearly. Simply insert the T20 wrench  and proceed to remove the bolts.

IMPORTANT: Be very careful if your strip the T20 heads you will have to completely remove your valve assembly rendering your Av un drivable and requiring a bleed of the entire brake system once the assembly if re installed. YOU DO NOT WANT TO HAVE TO DO THIS!!!

Once the 4 bolts are off gently lift straight up on the module you may have to rock it a little side to side to break the seal. Lift up about 1 inch and work the module towards you.
There is one last connector to remove from the underside of the module.

Congrats! Your EBCM is now out and ready to be sent our for repair by the facility of your choosing. Of if you have a new one on had your ready to install it.

If you are sending your module out for repair there are a few precaution to take before driving your vehicle.

Using a baggie, place it over your connectors and use electrical tape to keep them clean and dry.
Also cover the top of your valve assembly (where the module was before you removed it)
I used Duct Tape for this and used the philosophy more is better Smiley
Cover the top of the assembly with strips of tape until the entire top is protected from dirt and water.
It should take about a week to get your module back. I suggest doing thin on Sunday, Shipping on Monday and maybe you'll have it back by Friday depending on where you live.



Installing your new Module:
Before you install your new or repaired module there are a few things you will want to have ready:
New Stainless Bolts (M4x.7 x 25mm) I got deep socket heads from Ace Hardware for $.45 each (DO NOT PAY $5.00 From the place rebuilding it!)
Brake Cleaner (per re-manufactures instruction)
Hair dryer (per re-manufactures instruction)
2.5mm 2" Allen Wrench (for the new bolts)
Clean shop towels
Trusty magnetic mirror
Respirator (optional) (I'll explain later)

Once again Jack it up and shimmy underneath.
Mount your magnetic mirror.
Remove all the tape and bags.
Using the brake cleaner clean the surface of the valve assembly.
WARNING: Make sure the are you are working in a area that is VERY well ventilated (fan suggested) when you use the brake cleaner the vapors can overwhelm you very fast. I was outside on a breezy day and still just about passes out from the fumes! Also make sure your vehicle is cooled down to avoid a flash over from the vapors / hot exhaust.
After cleaning the valve assembly. Use the hair dryer on the top of the assemble to evaporate any cleaner and moisture.  It will also blow off any dust/debris from the valves.
Connect the third connector on the underside of the module. (the last one you removed while taking out the unit)
Still use the hair dryer some more on both the module and valve assembly to ensure there is no moisture trapped in side that may cause premature failure.
Carefully place the module back on top of the assembly in the reverse manner you removed it.
Insert the 4 new bolts. (wait till you have the module in place to ensure you do not drop any in a inaccessible place.)
Tighten the 4 bolts snug enough to ensure a water/moisture tight seal. If you get stainless bolts be careful not to strip them stainless is actually a very soft metal and you can strip the threads or wash out the hex easily.

Connect the to renaming connectors and red clip on the main connector.

Connect your Neg. batter terminal and re install the ABS fuse!

That's it! Take it for a test drive. HOARY! No more warning lights and annoying dinging alarms.

I went into this blind and kinda wished I had detailed instruction that's why I wrote this.
I hope that maybe it will help someone some day.
« Last Edit: 07/22/10 04:51 PM by ckusnierek » Logged

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omahava
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« Reply #1 on: 07/22/10 08:42 AM »

 You rock!
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« Reply #2 on: 08/03/10 06:04 PM »

Thank you for your post.  I'm about to take mine off tomorrow and get it repaired.  This site is going to save me hundreds of dollars vs taking it to the dealership for repair.
Thanks!
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NathanL
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« Reply #3 on: 08/20/11 12:15 PM »

Also wanted to thank you for the post.  You saved me about $500.  THanks.
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« Reply #4 on: 10/01/11 12:35 PM »

Just wanted to thank you guys as well for this (and other) posts.  I was able to get my module reworked by ModuleMaster and install it today.  Saved me about $800!  I highly recommend this rework route for anyone that is considering it!
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TXSZ66AVLANCHE
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« Reply #5 on: 10/02/11 12:02 AM »

Open the module by using a razor to cut through the silicone that seals the lid to the module, re-solder the connectors and you can save even more.   Thumbs up! Disconnecting the battery & pulling the ABS fuse is not necessary.
« Last Edit: 10/02/11 12:07 AM by TXSZ66AVLANCHE » Logged

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Sluggo33
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« Reply #6 on: 10/10/11 12:32 AM »

Just curious...

Has this been a "permanent" fix for this issue?  Anyone done this fix and it not "last" or did the problems persist or come back?

Thanks!
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UnderDog
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« Reply #7 on: 11/07/11 12:02 PM »

Thanks for posting!  My module just went out today and I went to the dealer today and they estomated repair about $1800!!  That's insain!

I have disconnected the fuse because it was running after I shut the truck off.  (I hope this isn't a bad sign and need to replace it....) 

I'm going to pull it off this weekend.  Wish me luck.   I need a hug
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Tomco
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« Reply #8 on: 12/05/11 02:21 AM »

 Help me!

Open the module by using a razor to cut through the silicone that seals the lid to the module, re-solder the connectors and you can save even more.   Thumbs up! Disconnecting the battery & pulling the ABS fuse is not necessary.

Trying to understand...I'm all for DIY...Are you saying we can rebuild these on our own without replacing? All we have to do is take apart the original module and re-solder the connectors and it fixes the problem? Please confirm or clarify.

Thanks,

Tomco
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Paulie Walnuts
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« Reply #9 on: 12/07/11 06:37 AM »

I'm curious as to this as well. We were quoted $1600.00 at our dealership.

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« Reply #10 on: 12/07/11 07:19 AM »

Thank's for the detailed post.   Thumbs up!
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Tomco
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« Reply #11 on: 12/07/11 09:00 AM »

Wow!

Ok I was all ready to change the EBCM but before I did I decided to try the new brake fluid exchange first...Bam!  Done deal,   service brake system warning is bye bye.
120K on my 2004 Yukon
My brake fluid was filthy and green looking...and had crud on the sides of the fluid reservoir. I suspected that perhaps at one of my oil changes a novice employee put some anti freeze in my brake fluid reservoir..it was that green. After the fact I have seen post from other Chevy /GMC owners of my vintage complaining about the same green look and crud on the sides of the reservoir.. either more than one rooky oil change guy is putting anti-freeze in the brake fluid reservoir or...GM got some crap brake fluid at a certain point in time @ 2003 /2004.

I was not able to find an auto parts company that had my master cylinder in stock so I cleaned the bajeebies out of the one I had..The crud was really hard to get off the sides and there are channels in it that made it difficult.. I soaked it in hot soapy water, used engine degreaser..still crud..last resort I used a spray hose and blew the heck out of it and got it about 95% clean. put it back together and bled the lines with a homemade powerbleeder ( pics to come next weekend ) cost me about $25 to make and 1 gallon of dot 3 brake fluid @ $20 and it worked coooooool. Put it back together All Good.

Really proud of my Hudsonsprayer converted power brake bleeder system...winner!

BTW... I Had over 110K on my Yukon with original brakes before I changed them ( they still had lining left!)... Stellar performance GM!


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junkyarddog
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« Reply #12 on: 12/13/11 02:11 PM »

Removed the ABS module board today and sent it to Module Masters. The mirror trick works great. By the way if you do strip the drive on a bolt as I did there is a way out. I used a my Dremel tool with a flexible shaft entension and a 1/8 dia grinding wheel and ground the head off. Really not that difficult just take your time. After grinding the head off and removing the module I removed what was left of the bolt with my fingers. Maybe I'll be a dentist when I grow up. Big laughter with tears
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« Reply #13 on: 12/23/11 05:56 AM »

One week after I sent my ABS module to Module Master it arrived. Followed the well written instructions and it passed all tests. No ABS light. Total cost w shipping $155.00. Hardest part was convincing my wife I wasn't gonna F up her hair dryer. Again this site rules.
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Sluggo33
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« Reply #14 on: 01/06/12 06:28 PM »

Hi!  Great post, I really appreciate it.  That said....

I talked to module master, and they said they couldn't repair an AC Delco EBCM, so I dug around on the internet, and I was able to find a BRAND NEW AC Delco from a closed down dealer for a pretty good deal.  Great right?

Not so much.  Once I got the module off, it was corroded inside.  Looks like the seal wasn't good and water got in there and corroded a bunch of stuff both on the EBCM and the BPMV.  I wasn't able to get all the corrosion off the BPMV, but since I had it off, I tried to get as much corrosion off the BPMV as possible with a toothbrush and brake cleaner, and install the new EBCM.  I closed it all up, and started up the truck, and I got warning lights and dings for "Service Brake System" (which I've never gotten before).  So I put the original EBCM back on, and the warning went away, but I still had my brake issue (Pump running briefly when pulling away from a stop).

That said, does it sound like I need to replace the BPMV also?

Thanks in advance...
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« Reply #15 on: 09/21/12 08:11 PM »


heres the REAL fix for the ABS light / intermittent brake light on the chevy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_6Sk7-fm0I
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UnderDog
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« Reply #16 on: 12/05/12 06:37 AM »

Thanks for posting!  My module just went out today and I went to the dealer today and they estomated repair about $1800!!  That's insain!

I have disconnected the fuse because it was running after I shut the truck off.  (I hope this isn't a bad sign and need to replace it....) 

I'm going to pull it off this weekend.  Wish me luck.   I need a hug

Well I never got to it that weedend and I am now planning to pull it out this week.  I attempted this past weekend but that little red lock pin thing wouldn't budge and with me heavy hands I didn't want to break it.

Can anyone please tell how to remove it?
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« Reply #17 on: 12/06/12 06:29 AM »

Anyone??   Help me!
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« Reply #18 on: 12/09/12 07:58 PM »

Can anyone tell me if the red clip just pulls directly out horizontal?   Help me!
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« Reply #19 on: 12/10/12 03:48 PM »

If anyone else has had trouble with the red clip here is a link to a video that shows how to pull it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFcPxK-jHao

But now I it looks like I may have stripped out the screw that is the furthest and hardest one to reach and it's now raining on me.   Cry

Work will have to hold til tomorrow.
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tracy14_2006
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« Reply #20 on: 12/21/12 10:20 AM »

Glad I joined this forum! Thumbs up!

I am going to have to do this on my avalanche soon...not having abs doesn't really bug me, but the dinging at startup sure does! I was hoping that a bad ground was the problem as mine looked pretty crudded up on the frame rail, but after cleaning and reinstalling it didn't make my light go off.

Question though, does anyone know if the ABS module from an avalanche 2500 is the same? I found an AC delco one on ebay new for 155 bucks, but it says fits 2003 avalanche 2500. Don't want to buy it if it won't fit!

Thanks!
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« Reply #21 on: 04/04/13 06:21 AM »

I am about to be removing mine and sending it out on my 2005 w/ 120k miles on it. The light came on and will not go off. I took it to the local dealer here  and was told it was the EBCM popping my ABS and brake lights on.

The quote I was given was $1200!!!! All I have to say is this forum just saved me a thousand dollars with this!!! (as long as it is the problem! LOL)

The only other thing is where is a good place to send it off too? I seen the names of the places that previous posters have sent it, but just did not know if anyone has had issues with their EBCM since they have gotten them back. I found this one place online that can fix them for $69 and just wondered if this would be a good idea after seeing the average price was around $150?

Thanks everyone
« Last Edit: 04/04/13 06:27 AM by slicwinko » Logged
junkyarddog
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« Reply #22 on: 04/04/13 04:23 PM »

Have had zero issues since Module Master repaired mine, as a matter of fact the ABS system seems to works better than it did before. They gave me a 5 year warranty. Paperwork from them showed they replaced several components, not just repaired the ground problems discussed here.
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« Reply #23 on: 04/04/13 05:37 PM »

Sounds like a good enough reference to me. Thanks a lot
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« Reply #24 on: 05/11/13 10:11 PM »

Here's another video on how to repair the module yourself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jo76ylqgUR8
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