punk8slvr
Full Member
There's so much information out there on replacing the EVAP Canister Vent Solemnized (CVS) in our AV's and I just wanted to update it for those 2007-2010 owners out there that might currently be experiencing the dreaded P0449, or P0445 (with tighten gas cap on the DIC) codes. This also applies to those who are experiencing difficulty filling refueling.
If you're getting these code's the first thing you're going to want to do is look up the most recent TSB on the issue...
TSB #09-06-04-028C
You will need the following two parts, I've also included the prices I paid at the dealership in MD on 8/18/2011. These are GM direct parts and are only available through the parts department at a dealer. The older version/fix for the EVAP CVS, which some 2007 owners have referenced/posted in regards to, are no longer manufactured by ACDelco.
EVAP CVS #20995472 ($71.xx)
Jumper Harness #19257603 (31.xx)
the EVAP CVS part you will be replacing is the entire unit, a hose that runs up to and attaches near the filler housing, and a hose that runs into the EVAP canister which is mounted near the rear of the gas tank, in front of the differential. The new jumper harness really seems to be another way for GM to nickle and dime us...my old one would have reached just fine, but they changed the connector forcing us to waste another $31.
you MUST drop the spare tire....I don't care how thin/double jointed you are, there's no way in hell you're going to reach it with the tire in place, plus you're going to have to remove the old hoses and reroute the new ones...also, if you're of above average build (i.e. can't crawl under the differential with the truck on the ground) then you're going to have to jack it up.
Otherwise it really wasn't too bad to do...the only tools you really need are a socket set and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers (getting the old hose to disconnect from the evap canister was a B...I actually had to remove a couple bolts that mounted the evap canister to the body in order to lower it a little...my dual exhaust was the biggest obstacle, but there is a heat shield that also was a PITA to get around, and it was only two bolts to lower it)...the TSB does reference drilling a hole in the filler housing, and installing a pin (#10121502) to hold the new CVS valve in place but the parts guy at the dealer just gave me an extra zip tie and told me not to waste my time.
Afterwards I pulled the battery cable to reset the code, and so far after 8-9 start cycles and 100+ miles the light hasn't come back...fingers crossed.
Hope this helps!!!!
If you're getting these code's the first thing you're going to want to do is look up the most recent TSB on the issue...
TSB #09-06-04-028C
You will need the following two parts, I've also included the prices I paid at the dealership in MD on 8/18/2011. These are GM direct parts and are only available through the parts department at a dealer. The older version/fix for the EVAP CVS, which some 2007 owners have referenced/posted in regards to, are no longer manufactured by ACDelco.
EVAP CVS #20995472 ($71.xx)
Jumper Harness #19257603 (31.xx)
the EVAP CVS part you will be replacing is the entire unit, a hose that runs up to and attaches near the filler housing, and a hose that runs into the EVAP canister which is mounted near the rear of the gas tank, in front of the differential. The new jumper harness really seems to be another way for GM to nickle and dime us...my old one would have reached just fine, but they changed the connector forcing us to waste another $31.
you MUST drop the spare tire....I don't care how thin/double jointed you are, there's no way in hell you're going to reach it with the tire in place, plus you're going to have to remove the old hoses and reroute the new ones...also, if you're of above average build (i.e. can't crawl under the differential with the truck on the ground) then you're going to have to jack it up.
Otherwise it really wasn't too bad to do...the only tools you really need are a socket set and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers (getting the old hose to disconnect from the evap canister was a B...I actually had to remove a couple bolts that mounted the evap canister to the body in order to lower it a little...my dual exhaust was the biggest obstacle, but there is a heat shield that also was a PITA to get around, and it was only two bolts to lower it)...the TSB does reference drilling a hole in the filler housing, and installing a pin (#10121502) to hold the new CVS valve in place but the parts guy at the dealer just gave me an extra zip tie and told me not to waste my time.
Afterwards I pulled the battery cable to reset the code, and so far after 8-9 start cycles and 100+ miles the light hasn't come back...fingers crossed.
Hope this helps!!!!