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Remove rear seat audio controls, but retain sound from rear speakers?

jmirus

jmirus

Full Member
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
15
I have 2005 with bose and on-star avalanche which, I installed a Pioneer Avic-x930bt headunit using a GM0S-04 harness. After installing I noticed that my rear audio control would light up but is not functional. I researched a few options for ways to deleted the "dead" rear seat control panel. I decided to make a plastic plate to cover the hole.
I thought it would be that easy, but I did not realize that if I disconnected the rear seat control I would lose all sound to my rear speakers.
I need to know if anyone has an idea to keep rear audio but remove the "dead" panel. I have considered cutting the panel apart and just cramming it in the space behind the plate.

Any ideas?
 
I am in the process of deciding if I want to also install the Pioneer AVH-P6300BT on my 02 Avalanche with ONSTAR.
My factory unit is toast.

Did u ever finish doing this successfully?
 
I believe you can jumper the wires if you want to remove the RSA.

Let me know if you need a diagram.
 
Jimuris - this is a little late but that's a real nice job on the rear screen install. Looks good.
 
MS03 2500 said:
I believe you can jumper the wires if you want to remove the RSA.

Let me know if you need a diagram.
Click to expand...

I know this is a really old thread, but I am attempting the same thing as the original poster and was wondering if you had the diagram handy or a link to a schematic that would make jumpering the wires easy.  TIA.

Bryan
 
Hey Bryan I'll post something thursday, just curious is the RSA broken.

For the  03-06 Bose system only

RSA cintroller

normal_RSA_Controller_Conn_Image.gif


index.php




Amp connector

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RSA wiring diagram

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Remove the pins like this, you don't have to cut any wires just move the wires.


PinExtractor.jpg


Here is a link to more info.
http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,44768.0.html


 
The Factory Deck sends the low power audio for the rear speakers to the RSA and then the RSA sends them to the amplifier.

So the RSA has both the low level inputs and the low level outputs that you need. There are two ways to accomplish an RSA bypass.

You can create jumper wires that go between the pins on the plug that plugs into the RSA unit and not plug it in or cut the wires going to the plug and just hook them together.

If you DO cut the wires to the plug make sure you leave enough wire to reconnect them in the future and solder the wires or make sure you crimp them well with a decent crimper.

The idea is that if the RSA is using a different output than the main speakers then the deck sends that audio to the RSA and NOT to the rear speakers. Thus why the rear speakers don't work if the RSA is broken or is turned on. Just bypassing the RSA makes this issue go away. If you just connect the wires and leave the RSA in place you could potentially have audio from different sources playing on your front speakers than are playing on your rear speakers.
 
09chevyavy said:
Anybody has the diagram? I removed rear stereo to put in a power inverter and I lost the rear speakers in my 2009
Click to expand...

I'll take a look later today.
 

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bbodine said:
I know this is a really old thread, but I am attempting the same thing as the original poster and was wondering if you had the diagram handy or a link to a schematic that would make jumpering the wires easy.  TIA.

Bryan
Click to expand...

I updated the thread this is for the 03-06 Bose system only
 
In your case I would just butt the wires from the top row to the bottom row
 
You are doing them at the RSA.. As he said you are just connecting the top row to the bottom row in the plug shown.

If you notice wire #1 is the same as wire #9 etc.. So you are connecting Wire #1 to wire #9 etc..

Your plug should look like the one posted.
 
Color match the wires to the plug, DO NOT bother or CUT the other plug it contains a wire to the LAN and cause all sorts of problems
 
Look at the wires on the plugs then look at the diagram. The second column in the diagram tells you what color the wire is, that is what I meant by color match.
 
I am curious about your RSA... In mine I only have one plug that plugs into it.. Does yours have two?

Mine is of course a 1st gen so it is highly possible that it is different. I have 2 plugs at the back of the radio and you want to make sure you are only messing with the plug that goes to the RSA to do this.

You are basically jumpering the RSA out of the loop.

Rodney
 
As I said, I knew there were two plugs on the back of it. So again, MS03, which plug do I touch and which do I leave alone?

They look identical. But I know you said to "color match" one and DO NOT touch the other.... Which one?

I made sure to get a look of the part numbers and such just in case you can look it up that way

78DD143F-EE65-47A6-9B0A-E1FFAC88C450_zpswyasqwfb.jpg


F2DFF927-B0F8-4287-B36A-724C780DACE1_zpsqztyibcv.jpg


C99B0CC7-1A6F-4E66-8C60-63AFD0FEE579_zpsvmvea4gt.jpg


1AC726EB-1683-4271-82E8-F1500AEF56A3_zps8wv5oexv.jpg

 
Take a picture of the 2 plugs showing the wires.
 
You should be able to look at the coloring of the wires and match it up to the one in the picture. Also notice the bottom tabs... One shows a large "key" and the other shows two smaller "keys" this should match up to the diagram.

But otherwise try matching up the color of wires to the colors of the wires on the plugs... I would be very surprised if GM made two plugs so similar and also made the wires the same colors.

Note if you look at the diagram there are two small "keys" which would line up with the connector on your right in the picture of the rear of the RSA...


Rodney
 
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