Rockford, JVC, and Sound Deadening install progress/pics. Bringin' the noise!

There doesn't seem to be much info present on this forum about something like this,  I'm more hardcore than most I guess so I decided to post up.  Plans for the 2009 LT2 Z71 are as follows...

-Full sound deadening with Raammat BXT II and ensolite, (complete)
-JVC KW AVX 840 with Ipod interface, Bass EQ, and reverse cam (complete except reverse cam)
-Factory integration with PAC Audio (OS4 etc. etc.) (complete)
-Kicker Big 3 upgrade with 0 AWG fused cable (completed)
-Rockford Fosgate dual amplifier install kit, 4 AWG power and grounds (complete)
-Custom amp rack (completed and changed again)
-2 Sundown SD-2 4ohm DVC 10's, (complete)
-4x RF Punch 5.25" door speakers powered by HU (complete)
-Image Dynamics components (125w RMS @ 4 ohms) mounted in Q logic kick panels
-RF Power 400.2 powering each component set 125w x 2 RMS @ 4 ohms (complete)
-RF Power T10001bd 1000w mono powering each sub at 410 RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm (installed)
-1000w total RMS


I've never really had a vehicle that I really cared to throw a good high quality sounding system in until getting this truck.  Didn't care for the weight it would add in other vehicles and thought this stuff was harder than in truth. I contemplated it in my Trans Am but that vehicle has become a drag car, and I didn't want to compromise space in other vehicles, but the Lanche has a stout alternator and I'm not going too much for performance with a 6k lb. truck, so I figured this was a good candidate.  The goal is a truly quiet luxury ride with a stereo that will rape your ears with volume, quality, look stealth, compromise little space, and be easily removed if ever needed.  I've seen alot of slap ass stereo installs and decided mine was not going to be one of them.  I'm also not willing to hand my wallet over to the kids at car toys or best buy either.

I worked on this from sun up to sundown over a day. I don't like to do things twice so I did all of this at once.  If running wire, why not deaden also? 

Some notes on the install

-I ordered roughly 37 sq. ft. of BXT II and 42 sq. ft.ensolite.  I was happy with the results and coverage of the tiles for the floorpan and midgate with this amount, however more ensolite would be needed to finish the floorpan if you do the midgate as well.  Ensolite really requires 100% coverage while BXT does not.  I will have to remove the rear seats again once I get more ensolite and finish the floor.  I had some BXT II left over even after heavy coverage in the rear and deadening the back of interior trim panels as I reinstalled them, specifically the B pillar trim panels and rear seat trim, which I did not photograph. I anticipate using the same amount to do all four doors and finish what I started.  I believe I used roughly 25 lbs. of deadening material. 

-Measuring, slicing, peeling, sticking, and rolling is the name of the game here.  My back killed!  A roller is helpful and cuts down on the lacerations from trying to work it with your hand.  Ensolite is very sticky.  I would not have wanted to spray glue, peel and stick is the way to go.
I was very impressed with the stickiness and workability of the raamaudio stuff.  Totally happy!

-The rear seats are very heavy and awkward.  I'm a pretty big strong guy and I could not remove the big rear seat.  I unbolted the midgate and slid the bench seat in the bed after lifting it out.  Everything on the truck has big bolts and is freakin' heavy.

-Trim panel removal tools help alot.  Although the avalanche snaps together like a plastic model very nicely, they do help.

-The midgate window knobs are attached with window lever clips. I had to replace them after removing them when reassembling the midgate which now fits very tight and reminds me of a thick wooden door when I pound on it now.
-There are lots of BCM's and SRS sensor type boxes along with a harness under the seats and center console.  You can unbolt them and put them to the side.  Be careful working around these.  You can remove the carpet, but the juke can be worked around if you work on front and back separately.

-There is a fair amount of sound deadening from the factory, not need to cover it with tiles.  I left the factory dash deadening and footwell padding in place.

-17ft. RCA's were used here along with 30ft. of speaker wire.  I was able to do 2 runs from the amp rack to the glove box.  I will be installing the crossovers in the glove box.  All wires can be ran along factory harness pretty easily to prevent pinching.

-Good time to clean carpet and detail all trim panels here which I did.  Truck is clean as a whistle inside now!

-Power wire was run along factory wire from mega fuse block to fuse box and ran through big factory grommet and under drivers carpet area.  Keep power wires away from RCA's here.

-The amp rack came out to 26"x12" on the surface.  3/4" MDF was used.  One side was lifted 1.5" inches to get it level with the driveshaft hump.  Carpet was from O'Reilly's and matches decent.  Just enough room for the amps I've picked out.

-I did have to ream out one of the holes in the bottom of the console tray to run the ribbon for the bass EQ, the Ipod connect an run between the center console and dash without having to hack it up.

You can view all the pics I took by clicking on the link to my fquick gallery and viewing the folder titled "stereo install"

http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery.php?carid=40267

I'll be updating this thread as future progress happens.  Hopefully very soon.

I almost forgot to mention what this did for the environment inside the truck.

It is a noticeable change.  Everything inside the truck is louder while outside sounds are diminished.  Very little road noise, just wind.  The factory stereo and speakers have increased clarity and seem to be able to be pushed louder without as much NVH.  Although the doors haven't been touched, they seem to be letting more NVH in than before.  Almost sounds like the stock muffler and resonator has been put back on.  I can't wait to do the doors and speakers, should be like a coffin in there.

So over the past few days I've been working on getting the double din H/U installed with the ipod interface, PAC OS4, SWI jack, and RCA's for the front and sub stages I have planned.  I'm using the metra dash kit.  Some notes from the install.  I'll post pics later on this week as I'm still not complete with the install.  This was not a quick slam together install.

-The OS4 is huge!  The amount of connected components here is ridiculous.  I had to resort to the dremel, a rotozip bit, and eventually a cutting wheel to remove the 3 dash supports that run horizontally behind the head unit.  I suppose you could exend the entire harness and route it elsewhere, but removing these pieces opens up lots of room for you to lay the components behind the HVAC and convenience controls.  Didn't seem to weaken the structure at all.  The chime sounds ok I guess, bluetooth conversations sound a little garbled, and there is a slight delay when receiving or making a call (you can hear the front speakers turn off a split second before the rear).  Overall it's a good solution to retaining your factory options with an aftermarket stereo.

-The metra install kit looks decent and matches the factory trim well.  I was worried about the piece interfering with the face tilt and remove features of the AVX840 but there is just enough room for it to function properly and look nice.  The alignment dowels on the trim piece didn't line up with the dash very well.  I needed to trim the upper portion of one side and lower of the other.  It wasn't off by much, but it bothered me and wasn't aligned with the rest of the stack.

-The RCA inputs on the stereo where the ipod interface connects were interfering with one of the "ears" that previously held the threads for the dash supports to bolt to.  This needed to be cut with a wheel.  I covered the sharp area with some raammat BXT.  Even after cutting this, the uppermost RCA was contacting the support and bending the jack a little.  You could probably get in there and remove more, however the space is tight and alot of sparks fly.

-I had originally managed the wire with loom, but it was just too much material and didn't offer much flexibility.  I ended up removing all the loom and using friction tape to protect my harness.

-Programming the steering wheel controls was kind of a pain in the ass.  If you're using the OS4 make sure to program it to ver. 2.  I was able to retain vol. up, vol. down, source, and next track.

-This H/U has a noticeable amount of power over the factory one and quickly pushes the factory speakers to a volume the factory stereo struggled with.  They quickly begin to distort and lose dynamics.  Replacing these with some 5.25's in MDF baffles and deadening the doors will be the next project.

I like the custom, full installs as well.  Pictures showing your progress would be great.  Ive been trying to avoid deadening my truck, but once you have had a vehicle done, its hard to go back.  

*sorry, didnt see your link to pics first time I read it*

I mounted my crossovers under the center console where the factory sub woofer used to sit.  Lots of room and out of the way down there.

Also, I noticed that you ran your power cable and RCAs together.  This will increase the chance of sound quality being diminished as the large amount of power running in your cable can interfere with the signal trying to run through your RCAs.  Most people suggest running them as far away from each as possible and if they have to cross to make them cross at 90^

You did a good job on the deadening of the floor.  If you havent done the doors, it will make the biggest difference in the inside noise levels of your ride. 

Keep up the great work and keep the pictures coming.  Getting me motivated to give my system a lil spring cleaning once the weather warms up!!

7Rook7 said:

I like the custom, full installs as well.  Pictures showing your progress would be great.  Ive been trying to avoid deadening my truck, but once you have had a vehicle done, its hard to go back.  

*sorry, didnt see your link to pics first time I read it*

I mounted my crossovers under the center console where the factory sub woofer used to sit.  Lots of room and out of the way down there.

Also, I noticed that you ran your power cable and RCAs together.  This will increase the chance of sound quality being diminished as the large amount of power running in your cable can interfere with the signal trying to run through your RCAs.  Most people suggest running them as far away from each as possible and if they have to cross to make them cross at 90^

You did a good job on the deadening of the floor.  If you havent done the doors, it will make the biggest difference in the inside noise levels of your ride. 

Keep up the great work and keep the pictures coming.  Getting me motivated to give my system a lil spring cleaning once the weather warms up!!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! I was wondering when someone would provide some input on my work, this is my first install.  I've chosen to mount the Xovers in the glove box so I can fiddle with the attentuation settings as the system develops.  Actually the power wire and RCA's only touch where they come through the hole near the rear seat studs.  I only had so much length to work with.  The power wire runs from the battery, across the firewall and cowl, down near the pedal area and along the trans tunnel on the driver side.  The RCA's run from the center console along the tunnel on the passenger side and under the midgate trim.  This was only for mock up and I still need to get under the carpet again to lay more closed cell foam.

I'm glad to hear you've deadened the doors before and I can expect a good result.  That is next on the list with replacing the door speakers.  Probably next month.

So recently I finished with my Big 3 upgrade, the remainder of the sound deadening, and installing 4 Rockford Fosgate P152's in each door mounted in custom 3/4" MDF baffles.  While I was at it I also threw in some OEM chrome door handles.  Although I didn't take pics of the progress I've included a video of the finished project. 

I'm excited about how it turned out.  In total the truck has roughly 75 sq. ft. of Raammat BXT II and probably an equal amount of Peel and stick ensolite.  I was able to get full coverage on the lower section of the doors augmenting the factory sound deadener on the upper portion.  A double layer about 8" x 8" went behind the speakers with a 12" x 12" section of ensolite behind each door speaker also.  This has the same effect as those expensive fresnel inserts.  I also used corrugated plastic (coroplast) which sealed the gaping holes in the doors and attached them with aluminum tape.  I figured why add more metal?  The coroplast is light and it was cheap, easy to cut and bend and seal with aluminum tape.  I then fully covered the inner metal skin and coroplast as well as put sections of BXT II on the inside of the trim pieces on the large areas.  Ensolite coverage was 100% also over the butyl. I retained the foam backsplash and with the baffles and deadening material the panels snapped on just fine without any modification.  I replaced several of the fasteners while in there.

The MDF baffles were cut with a jigsaw, holes were cut with a dremel multipurpose bit using a circle cutter which gave great results.  I then covered the baffles with several coats of bedliner and attached the speakers with screws, washers and t-nuts, crimped connectors on the factory wiring, and bolted the entire assembly to the doors using 4 sheet metal screws.  For only 5.25" speakers they sound damn good and get loud.  The mid bass I'm getting is awesome, never heard speakers so small sound so good in a truck.  I also removed the rear seats (again) and finished the ensolite coverage I lacked in the first go round. 

Sound deadening the doors wasn't as dramatic as doing the floorpan.  Although it's made a difference and I can now only hear a small amount of tire and wind noise, it's quiet in the truck.  65 mph and above on the highway is a real treat.  I don't even really hear other cars, it's quite pleasant and the stereo is audible at low volumes.  My Flowmaster Super 40 with removed resonator sounds like the stock exhaust again.

As far as the big 3 upgrade went I just replaced the factory 4 awg with 1/0.  I soldered the Xscorpion terminals with a propane torch, attached wire, measured, cut, and stripped or resoldered as neccessary, loomed and taped.  The Kicker terminals are high quality as is the Kicker wire as well.  I ran the alternator charging wire to the factory mega fuse and then ran that to the battery while regrounding in to the factory locations.  I used roughly 10 ft. of 1/0.  Although I don't seem to have a serious spike on the gauge I could tell the windows roll up faster and all the lighting is brighter also.  The amp power wire only needs a fuse now and it's hot.

I recently ordered my behind the seat box and wiring and should have that in a few days.  Subs and amp later on.  For now here is a quick clip showing how she turned out.  This was done with an HD flip and edited on iMovie.  Not the greatest video.  Sounds awesome in person.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08XX92kp3FM

So after my dealings with two different behind the seat box fails I went with the car audio factory shallow sealed midgate box. 

Here's the copy paste from that thread with my final choice in boxes.

This box is a BAMF!  Dropped right in no sweat.  Forget those other little boxes!  Was a little heavy but I'm a big strong dude.  It's actually not THAT much heavier than the midgate I sound deadened.  Brackets lined up no problem, a little snug on the top though.  When you put the strikers in the right spot which I did on the first try it seals up nicely, rock solid.  The lower holes were predrilled with T-nuts on the backside.  It came with all the hardware too!  I soldered up the 12 AWG speaker wire to the cups and this thing is ready to be loaded.  Only thing is when you raise the box back vertical you have to reach in and fiddle with that spring loaded flap, no biggie, might just remove it altogether, or not.  Took a short trip with it in there and it's quiet.  Looks really nice from the bed too.

After installing the box I threw on a Stinger digital voltmeter gauge on my amp rack.  I had some credit from returning the first box which I used some of it on speaker wire for front stage, more 4AWG for my power and grounds, fuses, and that gauge.  Hooked up fine, works, looks good, and I know my power and ground junction blocks and remote wire is working as these are what I tapped into.

Next thing on the list is an SMD DD-1 Distortion Detector and a multimeter.  If you're not familiar with this device (DD-1) check it out here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySG2BL5kAW4

Basically you can set your gains with the same accuracy of an oscilloscope.  Nothing but great reviews on this device.  Steve Meade has an awesome channel with lots to learn, and an even more awesome Tahoe.

So I've made a little progress on the stereo this month.  I decided to go with some different equipment and some changes had to be made.  The biggest thing is I've decided to go with the Power Series amps from Fosgate.  The Punch line looks nice but the Power line seems to have a bit more power and some other features I really like.  I'll be going with a T5001BDCP (this month) for the subs and a T400.4 for the front stage leaving two channels available.  With these amps in mind I rebuilt the rack.  Not sure if you all saw the original in my fquick page in my sig but this one is larger and I prefer the black over tan.  The first was sort of a trial and I ended up getting some tools to build this one nice and square, a little dusty still but looks great.  It's a bit taller, but from the measurements I've done on my space available and the height of the amps they should barely fit.  I added a Rockford fuse block to fuse both amps externally and with this box the junctions are mounted flat as opposed to vertical for easier access.  I also ran the Kicker 4AWG power and ground runs and a stinger voltmeter which shows me putting out 14.7 (after calibration) volts to my junctions at the back with the vehicle running, lights, stereo, and AC on full blast.  I didn't do a test before the big 3 upgrade but I'm sure it didn't hurt.  If you didn't see the other thread about the box issues I had here is a pic of the midgate box.  Got my DD-1 in as well, very nicely built tool and autographed by the man himself.  My new HU sees distortion at volume 45/50.

Another

One more for today.

Alright, so after much deliberation and research I've decided against the original P3 shallows I had originally intended.  I kept reading about "shallow" subs, and how they just aren't quite up to that of a conventional sub.  I'm really concerned about the output that those subs would have, but from my research and what I've read people say shallows generally aren't what you might hope from them.  After comparing specs of JL, Polk, Rockford, the prices of Alpines, MB Quart, Diamond, and generally spec'ing out subs all weekend I found these.

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sd-series.html?category_id=2

You can find some videos with some comments on youtube but from my understanding they're fairly new.  Came out mid to late last year.  These have a depth of 4 3/4 and don't have a pole vent so you can get really shallow with them.  They also handle another 200 watts RMS than everything else I looked at.  For a shallower mounting sub they have the cone design of a traditional sub.  That rubber surround is huge too.  I think I'm going to have to work the box with some sandpaper on the holes for another 1/8" but no big deal.

I'm sure I'll be the only guy with an Avalanche with some Sundown's, so well see.

I'm going to up the power to feed 'em a bit with a Rockford T1000 constant power that I'm ordering today.

The Rockford T10001bd constant power was installed yesterday and tuned with the DD-1.  Pretty neat tool how it works, only took a few minutes.  The amp looks awesome, very heavy, really nice terminal connections.  I have plenty of room under the seatseven with the amp rack for cooling.  It came rated at just under 1500 RMS @ 1 ohm and over 800 @ 4 ohms.  I'm thinking I'm going to run the subwoofers at 4 ohms.  Should keep the amp cool and power the subs no sweat.

Well, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of interest in this thread, but I've made some progress and figured I would post some pics.  It's nearing complete and sounds awesome!  I got the dual 4 ohm Sundown SD2's in and wired them up to 8 ohms with 12AWG wire and installed them with some light polyfi and t-nuts.  For what I listen to they sound awesome.  I couldn't be happier with the output I'm getting, and they seem to start sounding better the more I listen to them.  It's plenty to shake the rear view and make it angle down at the seats.  Very punchy, tight, not overly loud on the outside, but on the inside you can feel it pounding your butt.  I haven't heard any noticeable rattling so far which is probably from all the sound deadening.  It holds solid at 14.2 volts at moderate volume with the AC and headlights on.

I finished the amp rack by installing the T400-2 and setting it with the DD-1.  Everything looks nice and neat, there's room for it all, and it's out of the way with sufficient cooling.

I prepped the Qlogic kick panels by cutting x4 7" discs out of 1/4" MDF, and sandwiching them behind the kick panels with liquid nails and sealing them up with clear silicone effectively making baffles for the component woofers.  Very stout now!  I sound deadened them up with some Raammat I had left over and put them in.  The passenger side fit better than the driver side, color is a decent match.  There may be slight interference between the panels and woofer grilled once I get them in.  Parking brake should engage without a problem, just have to be careful.  The q-forms are nice.

I may put up a video demo/walkthrough depending on the response I get, but here are pics for now.

http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewgallery.php?albumid=8&carid=40267

I'm still not sure what components to go with, but that will be it for the install as far as I'm concerned.

Hey Joblo.....

How do you like the SD-2 Series Speakers ? i Ordered a Cresendo Amp today, 4 channel i do not have speaker selection as of yet...

I have spoken with a lot of people regarding the mid gate enclosure, and most have stated to stay away from the prefab stuff because I will limit myself in what i can use or how much power i can throw into it...I was very unsure on which direction to go..still am...

I was looking at the Sundown SA 10 Series Subs but they require .5 cube, and the enclosure i was looking at was 1.5 per side...Which would completely take away from the quality of sound im looking for. 

I may go to the same box as you have and go with the SD series as you have...though i do not know if i should go with the 2ohm or 4 ohm sub....
I do know i will be going with the Cresendo BC 2000k to power the subs...and the Cresendo 1000.C4 to power the speakers and head unit....

Do you mind giving me the dimensions of your box ?? I may try and build something similar to yours since i know your happy with your set up and i am going with a very similar set up ...only major differences i think will be the speakers and amps...Im still undecided which route to go in speaker config....Pro Audio or just go with something that can remain hidden from view in the stock....though i will be replacing all speaker wire and doing the Big 3....

Have you changed Amps ? And have you added a second battery ?

Sorry for all the questions...

I was kind of limited by that box.  Mostly by the depth as it had only 5".  I went with the SD'2s because they were the deepest I could find that would fit the depth of the box.  I would call it a "semi" shallow sub.  I think the box is .7 cubes per side.

I chose 4 ohms so that I could wire them at 4 ohms or just 1 in a pair, currently at 4.  Gave me more versatility.  2 ohms would have let me do 2 ohms or .5 with a pair, but many amps aren't stable at 1 ohm let alone .5.  You'll have to decide that based on how many you want.

I like the SD-2's alot, I also have nothing to compare them to.  SQ is all in what sounds good to your ears so you'll just have to try it out.  I will say I have the best sounding stereo I have ever heard in a car, and not by a little.

I have not changed amps and still running that T1000.  I did install some Rockford T2 components so it's all running now.  My Avalanche has the beefy alternator (175amp) I think.  Now that the 400 is powering the components I do get a little dimming with the headlights on.  Those Rockford amps suck alot of juice.  I'm still using the single factory battery.  My voltage is dropping to about 13.8 on the bigger hits which isn't too bad, but I may upgrade the alt just for the hell of it.  Shoot, if I do I change the alt I may rewire them down to 1 ohm and let 'em fly.  Those SD's are really underrated.

If you're interested I have 10' of Kicker 1/0 which is enough to do the big 3.  Shoot me a PM if you would like to work a transaction.

Sent you a PM.....


How did you tune your box though ? I know you can DD1 your amp but how did you manage to get the box at the hertz you wanted....Im looking to go to 32-35 hertz...which is why i was looking towards a ported box which will allow me to get the hertz i wanted....

I am an avid sundown fan...Cresendo Rocks as well....Im leaning towards Morels or Rainbow all the way around...
I think the size of the speaker is 6x4 and maybe 5 1/4 in the rear..I have to look it up but I think thats what it is...

I think you can get away with a new battery the XS 3400 and keep your alt and still be able to run 1 ohm ?

You don't "tune" a sealed box, there is no port size to adjust for tuning.

Just matched the speakers recommended cubic fottage to what I had available with the box I had.  Call it a noob setup if you will.

If you wanted I guess you could alter the cubic footage with polyfil to your preference.  But I just lightly filled it and put my subs in it.  Good to go!

Nice work, you did a good job with the complete install!

I am sure it sounds amazing especially with those Sundown subs.

Hi Joblo,

I'm hoping you can shoot me an e-mail so I can ask you some questions about the install.  I'm a car audio enthusiast but have been in a similar situation as you for the past few years where I didn't want ot waste money on my daily beaters and definitley wasn't adding the weight to my weekend warrior/drag car.

njkasaba@gmail.com

I will start my own thread and post pictures as well for all the others.

I did some deadening to my doors a couple weeks ago with Stinger expert roadkill.

It made my doors so heavy I'm afraid the hinges won't hold up over time.  

Not sure if I uploaded pics of the final install.  Guess not.  Install is pretty much done.  Was getting voltage drop after it was all said and done.  Got a 240 amp mechman g-series to go in.  Kics were all done awhile ago.  Q-logics fit ok.  Overall it sounds really good I think.

The initial fitment and lack of footspace bothered me, but I got over it.  I have not figured out how modify the e-brake for it to work.  Not too worried about it.  After it was all in, the trim rings on the tweets turned out to be garbage.  The don't stay on.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_07Y42oudI

For what it's worth I think these Sundowns pound for a "shallow" sub in a sealed box even.  This is from the factory alternator under a pretty big voltage drop on the big hits.

Fear Factory sounds awesome on my setup.  Butt pounding!