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Door Molding is curling

S

sgtquarles

New Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
3
Location
Fort Leonard Wood Missouri
The door molding on my drivers side is curling back on both ends, looks like the adhesive underneath failed.  Anyone know any fixes.  (its the molding midway down the doors on both sides)  Thanks in advance  :B:
 
Before you pull the molding off put some masking tape across the top and end of it to mark where it goes, makes it much easier to get back where it was.
 
sgtquarles said:
What kind of tape should I use and what should I use to clean the existing tape remnants.  Thanks for the reply by the way.   (y)
Click to expand...

Try using "Goof-Off" to remove the sticky stuff.  It seems to do a good job but be careful around the paint.  I think it is Acetone based.
 
3M double-sided tape. Any auto supply shop will have what you need. I think it's 1/2 or 3/4 inch wide.

Goof Off should work fine fior removing the film that will be left after removing the moulding. I would put masking tape on either side of the moulding to perfectly mark where either side should be.

On the moulding: you may need to rub the moulding with your finger to remove the rest from the moulding before installing the new tape. It has to be perfectly clean before applying the new tape.
 
Noticed this is a chronic problem for several of the Avs I looked at recently.

Any feedback on how well this worked? Did you have to clamp either end to get it to stick down? was the moulding permanently deformed?

Thanks in advance guys, mine needs just a little bit of attention soon..
 
Mine is doing the same. The molding is warping at each end and pulling itself away from the door. It will not lie flat. If I press on it, it just springs back when I let go. It is stiff, not very flexible.

This is a common problem at least '07-'08. Replacing the tape will not work for very long, if at all, unless there is a way to straighten the molding again (doubtful). Some people think the warping is caused by heat, but mine has gotten worse over this winter due to extreme cold (extended periods of less than about +10F) as the molding becomes rigidly deformed and the adhesive fails.
 

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My experience with "curling" has been with adhering two different materials together that have different thermal expansion/contraction coefficients (temperature). I will remove mine when the weather warms up a bit, and take a look at why there is a curling taking place.

We experience +100F down to -40F temperature ranges here, so that makes it pretty severe for materials.
 
I've had an issue with the leading edge of both rear doors' molding lifting for awhile now. I've glued them both back, twice, with 3M trim adhesive.....clean, apply and clamp until set. Lasts me about a year/year and a half. They're at it again. This time it'll be adhesive plus a black, counter sunk drywall wall screw.
 
The adhesive doesn't come off easily. I spent 20 hours doing it with goo off and a scrub brush. I followed that with a power polish. Granted I wanted to get rid of them all together. You just want to re-apply.

I used a heat gun to remove mine and it resulted in the whole piece curling up into a ball. I assume that piece is junk now. I'd suggest pulling it back a few inches, then glue and clamp it down. Maybe silicone or an aggressive glue.
 
MLM said:
Thinking of trying this. One of the reviews says it is better than the OEM design, which is hollow. Plus is it pre-painted.

http://www.bodysidemoldings.com/Chevy-Avalanche-Body-Side-Molding-p/fe2-sub-ava.htm
Click to expand...

Mine got to the point I just pulled it a little and it came off leaving the tape. The dealer wanted $1,100.00 to take off the other three and clean the doors. WHAT????

Anyway, thanks for the link above, I need to buy all the side molding as all mine is curling, 2009 model. Be a good rainy day project... thanks again.
 
Interesting time to bring this up again. Mine did it again only worse/more extensive this time around. Direct afternoon sun exposure coupled with overnight temps often below zero during the winter seems to be what brings it on.

Just fixed it, permanently, within this past week...a single flat head #10 or #8 metal screw on the end(s). Countersunk, glossified black Plasti-Dip coated heads, silicone sealer on the threads. Heat gun helps the molding relax to lie flat before being screwed down. Figured it was worth a shot before spending too much time, money, and blood effort replacing it all.  Doesn't look bad at all.... and quickly unnoticeable.
 
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=3m+adhesive+eraser+wheel&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=34108255042&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5164755008095788662&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6mn0y676m6_b

I use one of these on my 18 volt dewalt drill to remove the old double sided tape from the door and molding. It's a lot faster and easier than goof off.
 
This problem really pisses me off. After all these years and evolution of the 'door trim' they still can't get it right. Someone needs to be fired.
 
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