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Author Topic: Wyotonka build thread  (Read 142855 times)

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Dakotawilk

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #75 on: December 6, 2013, 06:51:59 AM »

dude THAT SUCKS!!! say it got down to -25 at my house and i left myn at my dads work and we car pooled and got back this morning it was so cold hoping i got my anti freeze mixed righ  :o and pipes broke check engine light and fuel pump dude haha u know that bonus u got haha its gone jk idk if u got a bonus but everytime i get extra money something usually goes bad and always like $100 more than i have
hey at least its still in one piece right well better luck tomorrow
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Dluvr22

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #76 on: December 6, 2013, 07:33:41 AM »

Dude I feel your pain.
Hope you have another vehicle you can use as a standby at times like these.

I'm at 175,000 and have had no transmission issues yet (knock on wood)  but I know when it does happen it won't be easy for me.
As for the fuel pump, well I've been there and had to drop the tank twice because the first time I put the pump in, it was not sitting right and I was leaking fuel at every fill-up.

Anyhow I hope you get those issues resolved and have your truck working right soon.
While it is bad enough to have to fix stuff in the cold winter months, it is even worse to miss out out on any chance to take the truck out in the snow to have some fun.

Now I am off to get a car wash after our snow over here.


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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #77 on: December 6, 2013, 08:02:51 AM »

i dont have another vehicle  :beating: it would be nice to, but im sure if this is takes more than today to get back to road worthy i will be able to drive a work truck or something

Yea its a pain but i also just talked to my boss (who is also my mom  :laugh: ) who was hinting that i should look into seeing if i could get a new car loan which i immediately told her im not selling my truck over this and i would have to fix it first anyway so it would be stupid of me to do that because there isnt much left that isnt replaced (transmission is new as of around 65000 miles)

but i was told that if it is slow today that i will be able to clock out and use the shop to get some things buttoned up so im not using my weekend doing it  :A:

and i know what you mean about needing a wash

« Last Edit: December 9, 2017, 19:12:11 PM by wyotonka »
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PuddleStompin

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #78 on: December 6, 2013, 10:17:31 AM »

Dude... just read your post.  SUCKS when stuff breaks.  I am planning on a fuel pump and bullet proofing the rear end next year so i head those off at the pass.  Keep us posted on how the fuel pump swap goes.
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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #79 on: December 6, 2013, 10:30:48 AM »

will do... i have a friend who works at napa who thinks that the fuel lines might just be froze so he is going to send a bottle of heet fuel treatment my way to try before we go through the process of the fuel pump
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HenryJ

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #80 on: December 6, 2013, 10:47:11 AM »

I don't buy the frozen fuel line thing. Diesel? Maybe, Gas? No.
...
P0220
P0300
P1518
P1516
P0174
P0171
P0120

...backed into my parking spot and the truck sputtered and died ...
2003 truck, right? Are you sure the fuel pump is dead?
A couple things to think about. Early two thousand models had some issues with the sub-grade wiring. The wires used had fewer strands. Even though the gauge was larger to meet the specification, the fewer strands made the wiring brittle. This also allowed them to expand and contract with heating. More than usual. Heat from the engine and the vibration seem to be causing the failures. The GM answer is to replace the engine harness.
I have seen several, and it is a known issue that the engine harness had cracking wiring. The bad wires I have seen were the yellow wire about six inches from the throttle body.
Cut loose the loom and expose the wires. Pulling each wire can reveal internal breaks that are obvious. If in doubt use a multimeter to test the wire. Remember some of these issues created intermittent problems. Solder and heat shrink will repair the break. I have personally repaired three that had all sorts of problems prior to the fix. Now all have been trouble free. GM replaced throttle bodies, fuel pumps, throttle pedal assemblies , etc... all under warranty. None solved the problem. I fixed the yellow wire, and trouble free the last four or five years now.

Next up may be the fuel pump wiring connector. Fuel pump failures were being blamed on the small terminals in the connector. They were not allowing the needed amperage flow and resulting in damage to the fuel pumps. Some of the new pumps come with a new connector. Stick with Delphi for the replacement. Cheaper pumps are not the answer. You will replace them again way too soon. Replace the module. The sender needs to be replaced too, or you will be in doing that next. Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. I can post pictures of the crap Carter, Airtex, and other cheap pump modules pumps if needed. I have a whole rant on my forum about those.

All this said. Be sure to reset the PCM and control modules to get a fresh picture of what is happening. I don't trust a failure code until it sets more than once. A scan tool works well for clearing all the codes. Resetting the stored start sequence takes a bit more. Pull both battery cables. Wait at least three minutes. Capacitors in the system can keep the modules powered for a time. Yes, I know this method may be "voodoo" , but it works for me :eyes crossed: ;)
« Last Edit: December 6, 2013, 10:53:14 AM by HenryJ »
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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #81 on: December 6, 2013, 11:01:40 AM »

didnt plan on buying cheap replacement i was taught if you plan on keeping a vehicle to put in the good stuff  :thumbsup:

it was -20f here last night and if there was water in the fuel (filled the tank last night) then the water could have frozen

**just went out and it fired up no hesitation (it is still -2 here) i plan on checking wiring after work with those codes being thrown but will still be putting the heet in the tank.. even if it isnt frozen we are supposed to be -19 tonight with windchills reaching -50 so it wont hurt to have it in there
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HenryJ

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #82 on: December 6, 2013, 11:48:55 AM »

Got engine heater? Look for K05 in the RPO code list. If you don't have one add it to your list. A freeze plug heater is a must for those conditions. I also have a cabin heater. I will not go without that! really nice to jump in the truck and have all the windows defrosted :) Keeps the driver defrosted too ;)

All our fuel here is mandated to have ethanol. I keep a couple bottles of HEET in the truck. Not for the truck, but for the white box stove. Melting snow for water in an emergency.

Keep in mind that if you are having intermittent problems and a warm truck seems to do it more than cold, it could be the wiring. A little search will reveal many others that had the same issues. $0.10 worth of solder fixes it.
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"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Dakotawilk

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #83 on: December 6, 2013, 11:57:06 AM »

good to hear it might not be the fuel pump!!!and speaking of engine heaters and so on when i have been drving to school these past few days when it was like drop 15 my temp has been wasy low like barried below 160 and havent check yet but i dont think my anti freeze froze but possible i have also heard to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to eliminate windchill factor any sugjustions?
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Cb radio, 40" curved led bar, torsion keys, raptor lights, rear bed LEDs, plasti dipped avalanche logos interior power bar bow tie, 12,000lb (going in steel bumper) 2 led cubes leveling kit magnaflow exhaust
Future mods,
35" Goodyear wranglers mtr's, covering seat covers, upgraded front rotors, steel bumper (deigning it now), led cubes (ordered), front bench seat, subs, rear 2" spacers, 6" lift (after college) projector headlights, led tail lights

wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #84 on: December 6, 2013, 12:09:11 PM »

Got engine heater? Look for K05 in the RPO code list. If you don't have one add it to your list. A freeze plug heater is a must for those conditions. I also have a cabin heater. I will not go without that! really nice to jump in the truck and have all the windows defrosted :) Keeps the driver defrosted too ;)

All our fuel here is mandated to have ethanol. I keep a couple bottles of HEET in the truck. Not for the truck, but for the white box stove. Melting snow for water in an emergency.

Keep in mind that if you are having intermittent problems and a warm truck seems to do it more than cold, it could be the wiring. A little search will reveal many others that had the same issues. $0.10 worth of solder fixes it.
thanks for the pointers.... when it gets this cold i park in the garage and the remote start gets the truck warm  :A: i will definitely check for that code since i have been wondering if i just dont know where to look
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HenryJ

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #85 on: December 6, 2013, 12:50:47 PM »

Look for a cord tied along the frame rail. I have run into many that never knew it was there. Newer models have a thermostat in the plug so they do not heat above freezing. Saves on power and you don't throw a code when starting above freezing.

Limiting airflow through the radiator can help warm ups. Be careful though. Block too much air and you can over heat.
In severe weather I might consider some sort of cover. Usually the weather does not stay that cold for that long. Newer engines with electric fans don't need this help quite as much since the fan is not pulling air all the time. The biggest advantage would be in highway travel.

If your temp is not rising consistently, suspect a sticky thermostat. Coolant should be changed no less than every five years. That gets neglected by most, myself included.
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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #86 on: December 6, 2013, 13:13:29 PM »

i went out and looked ... no k05 looks like it will be on the list... put one on my jeep when i had it because it didn't like to start in the cold

we arent supposed to be back above 0 till sunday... then not above freezing til next thursday  :thumbdown:
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HenryJ

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #87 on: December 6, 2013, 14:02:54 PM »

I feel for ya. Winter storm warning for us today. Highs in the twenties , lows single digits. Above freezing is not in the forecast. Maybe March?
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"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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BLT Offroad Avalanche

wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #88 on: December 6, 2013, 14:35:14 PM »

 :laugh: pretty much ... on the bright side i put the HEET in the tank let it sit for a while and then went on my "lunch" went everywhere i needed to without anything out of the ordinary... rpms were normal engine temp was lower than normal but that is expected when its this cold  :thumbsup: no whine from the pump and one happy guy (really didn't want to tackle that today )
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Dakotawilk

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #89 on: December 8, 2013, 08:52:01 AM »

Look for a cord tied along the frame rail. I have run into many that never knew it was there. Newer models have a thermostat in the plug so they do not heat above freezing. Saves on power and you don't throw a code when starting above freezing.

Limiting airflow through the radiator can help warm ups. Be careful though. Block too much air and you can over heat.
In severe weather I might consider some sort of cover. Usually the weather does not stay that cold for that long. Newer engines with electric fans don't need this help quite as much since the fan is not pulling air all the time. The biggest advantage would be in highway travel.

If your temp is not rising consistently, suspect a sticky thermostat. Coolant should be changed no less than every five years. That gets neglected by most, myself included.
I just put in a new thermostat a month ago and last summer I was lwaking coolant throught my radiator so got that fixed and has fresh coolant and that's the thing 90% of my drive is high way and myn is a 2004 so I am gona look for that plug is it just a block heater? because if it had one that would be AWSOME! I was talking to my dad about it he though I was nuts that it might already have one  :laugh:
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Current mods
Cb radio, 40" curved led bar, torsion keys, raptor lights, rear bed LEDs, plasti dipped avalanche logos interior power bar bow tie, 12,000lb (going in steel bumper) 2 led cubes leveling kit magnaflow exhaust
Future mods,
35" Goodyear wranglers mtr's, covering seat covers, upgraded front rotors, steel bumper (deigning it now), led cubes (ordered), front bench seat, subs, rear 2" spacers, 6" lift (after college) projector headlights, led tail lights

HenryJ

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #90 on: December 8, 2013, 10:44:02 AM »

Check your RPO code list for a K05 That is the engine heater package.
It is a frost/freeze plug heater in the side of the block. The cord is usually wrapped and tied to the frame rail inside the engine compartment. I have seen many who never knew it was there.
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PuddleStompin

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #91 on: December 9, 2013, 10:36:41 AM »

Good to hear you didn't have to replace the pump.  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:
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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #92 on: December 9, 2013, 10:45:28 AM »

thanks... i was really not looking forward to replacing the pump with this weather it wouldn't have even been warm to do it in the shop  :laugh:
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Dakotawilk

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #93 on: December 9, 2013, 11:48:46 AM »

thanks... i was really not looking forward to replacing the pump with this weather it wouldn't have even been warm to do it in the shop  :laugh:
yup thats awsome bro woulda sucked you lucked out haha
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Current mods
Cb radio, 40" curved led bar, torsion keys, raptor lights, rear bed LEDs, plasti dipped avalanche logos interior power bar bow tie, 12,000lb (going in steel bumper) 2 led cubes leveling kit magnaflow exhaust
Future mods,
35" Goodyear wranglers mtr's, covering seat covers, upgraded front rotors, steel bumper (deigning it now), led cubes (ordered), front bench seat, subs, rear 2" spacers, 6" lift (after college) projector headlights, led tail lights

Dluvr22

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #94 on: December 9, 2013, 12:40:12 PM »

Unfortunately I did not have the RPO code KO5.
I did my research knowing I was moving to MN but I am not one of the lucky ones.

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Computer installed in vehicle. Rancho 9000 with MyRide controller. Krylon fusion on cladding. K&N intake. Dual battery mod to be completed soon............
http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,124979.0.html

wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #95 on: December 9, 2013, 12:43:05 PM »

ill sacrifice the k05 code for the yellow anytime   :4:
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wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #96 on: January 3, 2014, 09:55:03 AM »

ok so i have ran into a dillema that i need some input on .... i have the tan 3rd row seats out of a suburban/tahoe and dont want to spend another 180 for the matching seat covers and since its going to be my 3rd row seat i figured i would do the vinyl dye/paint to match the black and yellow instead of dragging around a seat with a cover on it screwing up the covers....

I have not mounted these yet and will get updated pics when that happens :thumbsup:
« Last Edit: December 9, 2017, 19:13:12 PM by wyotonka »
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Dakotawilk

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #97 on: January 3, 2014, 10:13:32 AM »

I have heard of people plasti dipping there seats and I seams to me like it would hold up idk but could be something to reaserch for shure and if I were you I would do the second option with the seatbelts I think that would look cool :) hope you had a merry Christmas and a happy new btw I got some torsion keys now I can level mine maby lift it depending if the rear needs it or not good luck anyways keep us updated :thumbsup:
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Current mods
Cb radio, 40" curved led bar, torsion keys, raptor lights, rear bed LEDs, plasti dipped avalanche logos interior power bar bow tie, 12,000lb (going in steel bumper) 2 led cubes leveling kit magnaflow exhaust
Future mods,
35" Goodyear wranglers mtr's, covering seat covers, upgraded front rotors, steel bumper (deigning it now), led cubes (ordered), front bench seat, subs, rear 2" spacers, 6" lift (after college) projector headlights, led tail lights

wyotonka

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #98 on: January 3, 2014, 10:38:54 AM »

i dont think plastidip would hold up at all.... this is just for the 3rd row seat too the fronts and backs are going to be the same as they are now with the black and yellow covers i just dont want tan seats in the very back with black and yellow up front...
« Last Edit: December 9, 2017, 19:13:36 PM by wyotonka »
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enoniam

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Re: Wyotonka build thread
« Reply #99 on: January 3, 2014, 10:49:53 AM »

I like option 2.
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