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Do I need to upgrade?

09chevyavy

Full Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
2,731
Location
Lafayette, Louisiana
Hey guys, so I have a 2009 LT and I already have the 55watt 6k HIDs and retrofitted an 18watt LED cube into the high beam and the fog lights. So far, no dimming lights or anything. Stock alternator and battery is about two years old

I am going to be building a set of bumpers for the front and rear as well as a grill and roof rack.

My question is this

Along with the build, I will be adding a total of 6 more 18 watt cubes and 2 240 watt light bars

So total I will be pulling an additional 588 watts to the system which equals an additional 43.2 amps

Will I need to upgrade my alternator? Battery? Big 3? What will I need to do to make it work. I dont have a sound system right now so that isnt a problem as far as additional load.

Will I have to?
 
I dont think youll have any issuse, as you wont be driving around with them all on all of the time. The big three are alwas a good start, but as i stated in a different thread, the main battery to block ground is a 4 gauge wire. The engine to body could be better, and the frame ground isnt much. So the two grounds could be upgraded. Also, if im not mistaken, in this instance the wattage level refers to output, not usage. I could be wrong tho.
 
you can search around, or just buy bulk wire and connectors, and make the wires yourself. I think thats what most people do. Thats what I did when i put in my dual battery setup. I'm also running a small sound system, in addition to all the lights.
 
Okay cool thanks man. And I know that there is a big 3 thread here I just gotta look for it. I am perfectly fine with making my own connectors and all. Do you know if the big 3 thread on here is for the 07-13? If it isn't, does it all transfer over? I haven't looked at it all to check yet
 
Yes it's pretty much the same for any year.

You can buy kits on-line but if you can do it yourself it will come out cleaner since you can cut to length all you wires and have them terminate in the best place on your vehicle and not end up with a bunch left over or not enough from a universal kit. I prefer to solider the ends vs. crimping and adhesive lined heat shrink over them for the best connection.

Here's a basic diagram of a charging system with the upgrades I made up for a friend who was doing his truck. It's kind of crude but you can get the idea. This also has an aux battery, controller and amps for a stereo.You can find videos on Youtube.

Also make sure theres a ground from the firewall/body to the motor.
 

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So let me get this right for the Big 3 upgrade,

Power to alternator

Neg battery to ground

Engine block to ground

Now, I can find the positive for alternator and the battery. But where is the factory ground and the factory location for the engine block ground? Does anybody already know for my 2009?

I know I am going to go with Stinger 0 gauge wire, Stinger ring terminals as well, I will attach everything and move it all so that it is out of the way. What about the fuse holder? From where and how big?

Is there anything else that I need?
 
Some say it should be called the Big 4 because you should have a ground to the frame if your using it as the negative path for amps mounted inside or at the rear of the vehicle.

But the basic definition is battery positive to alternator, battery ground to chassis/frame and engine to chassis/frame. And number 4 would be engine to body.
 
The ground to the motor, try to find a bolt hole or bracket down low on the block if possible and not the head. It's okay to ground to the head but the block is better.

For the ground to the alternator unless it's after market it probably does not have a ground lug on it so run the ground to one of the bolts that hold the alternator so it's as close to the case as possible. That will give the best path for current flow to the battery which in theory makes it easier on the alternator which should make last as long as possible.

Fuse holder, use somthing like this.. I think mine is a 100amp, I will check..


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-X-Mega-Fuse-Holder-100amp-500amp-Rating-Auto-Car-Side-Mountable-Screw-Down-/191242453341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c86f0415d


0 gauge is plenty big enough, 2 gauge is fine unless you plan on a monster stereo. I'm running about 1000 watts of amps and using 2 gauge with no issues. Knock, Knock on wood....
 
Yeah I know I will need to upgrade to dual batteries later on and will also upgrade to a dual battery kit from National starter because of the TON of light I want this truck to have along with a sound system later on. I will need the 0 gauge for sure so I might as well upgrade it now.

Okay so battery positive to alternator positive, battery negative to ground, engine block to ground. Sounds simple enough. Will try it over the next few months. Til then, the stock setup will have to do. Thanks a lot guys! I also found this site out there as well that really gave good directions on just how to do it.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/
 
Another good resource for most stereo, alarms, wiring and just about everything automotive electrical...


http://www.the12volt.com/
 
Randy I have 2 wires from the battery positive cable one goes to the under hood fuse box and the other goes to the starter.
 
Technically you should have 3.

1. From the battery to the power tap to the starter. (main cable)
2. Battery to the fuse box. (8 or 10 gauge)
3. From the power tap to the alternator. (Alternator charge wire, fused)

Unless you changed it from the factory..

Are you asking a question or just messing with me?
 
No I not messing with you, there are 2 cables on my primary battery positive cable. I also have a red junction block on my 03. I agree with you about the wiring.

PS we may the last 2 2500 owners

Those little lights will be fine, now add a air compressor
 
The red junction block or what I called the power tap. That's where the factory charge cable from the alternator connects. When you do the big 3 upgrade (or bigger alt) you get rid of that one and and replace it with a 1/0 cable and run it directly to the positive on the battery. That junction block is the best place to land any accessories i.e. fans, lights etc.


Yea, I see the 2500 owners are falling by the side of the road so to speak.. Oh well maybe they will be back the AV in 2016, but my only problem would be they would probably be asking $60K plus for it. That's almost twice what I paid for mine new and unless it comes with a 6.2L or diesel I won't want it.
 
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