• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

Looking for ignition controlled power

1oldsalt

Full Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2011
Messages
158
I'm installing a new dash cam and this one requires one wire that is constantly energized and one that is energized with the ignition to use all it's functions.
Since the fuse panel is constantly hot that is not a problem.
Does anyone know of a circuit I can tap into for the ignition controlled power? Preferably on the drivers side since I have already run my wire on that side. I can run it on the passenger side if need be as long as I can get both a constant hot and ignition hot on that side.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
look at this thread it may help you

Link
 
Thanks ItsStopher.

I'll crawl under there and have a look.
You don't happen to know what that left foot fuse/junction box controls do you? Not sure If I have a blank spot in that box like the picture.
I don't want to tap into something in the airbag circuit.
 
Each cavity does something different. Let me know what one is empty and I will tell you what pins do what.
 
Just finished. Everything is working perfectly.

I had the same empty socket as in the photo in the link.
Positive posts were the same however the ground on mine was dead. I checked each one with a meter before connecting anything. No problem though, I just picked up a ground outside the box on a screw.

Is there somewhere online that has the schematics for all the J-boxes and modules for the Avalanche?

Thanks a lot ItsStopher. You're a lifesaver.

 
some good info here

https://www.gmupfitter.com/
 
Since I like the subject line title, I have to jump in and take this thread sideways.

My air horn compressor needs to be on an ignition controlled power source.  The compressor is mounted in the space for the 2d battery the under hood fuse box is right there.  The place that wired the compressor for me tapped into the Injector circuit but the fuse tap screws up that circuit every now and then (I can't figure out why).

but, as stated in the OP, it seems that every circuit in that box is hot...at least other than the injectors.

I need an ignition controlled power source so that the compressor doesn't run the battery down in the event of a leak in the air system.  I'll be grateful for ideas.
 
Hound said:
Since I like the subject line title, I have to jump in and take this thread sideways.

My air horn compressor needs to be on an ignition controlled power source.  The compressor is mounted in the space for the 2d battery the under hood fuse box is right there.  The place that wired the compressor for me tapped into the Injector circuit but the fuse tap screws up that circuit every now and then (I can't figure out why).

but, as stated in the OP, it seems that every circuit in that box is hot...at least other than the injectors.

I need an ignition controlled power source so that the compressor doesn't run the battery down in the event of a leak in the air system.  I'll be grateful for ideas.
Is it blowing the fuse? Are you using a relay?
 
I didn't wire it.  It was wired by a local car stereo joint.  I assumed they put in a relay but I don't see one.

It is not blowing the fuse.  They used a fuse tap or fuse splitter so that 2 fuses could be run off of one.  For whatever reason, since they plugged into the Injector fuse, it sometimes shuts down those injectors.  If I unplug the tap and put the original fuse back in, everything is fine. 

Most times the way it is wired is fine.  Occasionally the tap screws up that circuit.  So, I just want to rewire it to an ignition controlled power source and be done with this.  But, the under hood fuse box is odd in that it seems to be always powered.  I even have a sunroof fuse that is always hot although I don't have a sunroof!

It would be easiest if I could find an ignition controlled feed right there rather than have to run a wire into the cab.
 
The problem with the tap is that it still has to share the circuit with the original item. When you read the "tap" it says right on it that the total amount of the socket has not changed... I forget which one I used in my truck. I THINK it was an SEO fuse which is unused in my truck. If your device actually draws any power from the ignition you will want to use a relay and control the relay with the tap so you are not drawing power away from the original device.

In My case I am actuating the Solenoid for my batteries so it doesn't pull any amperage.

Rodney
 
ItsStopher said:
look at this thread it may help you

Link

as much as I preferred to use the under hood fuse panel due to its proximity, I think I will merely run the power wire through a grommet in the firewall and into the fuse panel at the left foot fuse box.  I have an empty socket with pins in the 1, 5 and 7 position on both the top and bottom of the socket.  I'll throw a tester on it to make sure the pins are ground, hot and ignition before I connect anything
 
Back
Top