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ABS light...

2002blackedout2500

Full Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
668
My ABS light intermittently comes on, my brakes itself however is great. I had a question I'm hoping someone can answer.

Has anyone resoldered their ABS module for a 2002 2500 8.1 like in these videos:
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBUE0WhXI0c
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jo76ylqgUR8
And if so did it work for you?

From the ModuleMasters website (http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/instructions/ABS/Chevrolet_Avalanche_ABS.pdf) these ABS modules cannot be repaired: KH 310 and KH Series 30.

Does anyone know if the 02 2500's have the KH 325 ABS modules that "can" be repaired or resoldered?

Thanks CAFCNA!
 
get code... could just be a wheel speed sensor...
 
strange:
Code
C0625
CHEVROLET
Description = LR Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Might want to read code again as they all say this is for leveling system and well... 2002 did not have such thing
 
ygmn said:
strange:
Code
C0625
CHEVROLET
Description = LR Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Might want to read code again as they all say this is for leveling system and well... 2002 did not have such thing

I'm sorry, I actually typed that wrong its - C0265 not C0 "625".
 
So I ended up pulling out the EBCM, reflowed the joints (even though it looked ok to me), cleaned off the old RTV silicone (this was the hardest part lol) then used RTV silicone to reseal the plate and reinstalled the EBCM. Drove it around the block a few times, brakes felt the same. Came home and ran my code reader and absolutely no codes, nothing at all.

I don't know if this fixed the problem because the issue was intermittent (it could throw a code after driving it awhile), brakes feel the same and I have no codes. I'll drive it around more and post if anything else comes up.

For anyone looking to do this to their EBCM on a 2002 2500 8.1 here's a few tips:

* The two front facing torx T20 screws are easy to reach, however you would need a stubby socket to get them out. My ratchet and socket was too tall and couldn't fit between the EBCM and my frame. There's only about 2" between the frame and module for the two front screws. The rear screws are easy to reach and will fit the normal size socket height.

* To remove the screws holding in the EBCM plate, I would suggest getting a torx T10 screwdriver. For this issue my socket was too fat :E: Press down firmly and turn slowly to keep from stripping the heads, these screws are really easy to strip.

* Be careful when prying up the plate. The circuit board sits a little higher than the area where the plate and module separates. Anyone could easily pry up the entire circuit board if you're rushing and not careful.

Good luck to anyone looking to do this! Pretty easy job, nothing to it.
 
Let us know how you come out.
 
Ok, so I just read through this post and my issue is similar. I have a 2003 1500 4X4, and have already once replaced the left front hub assembly. I had no issues for about 5 years now and recently my ABS light has been popping on and off with nothing happening, now even on dry pavement in a straight line the light is coming on and engaging the ABS. I talked to a shop today and they said that more than likely my hub assembly is bad again, but it has no slop in it. Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? can I just replace the sensor? or think it may be a fuse? I do not have the code right now.
 
Have the brake codes read that will tell you what is wrong.
 
My ABS light has been intermittent for a little while too.
This morning, it flickered a couple of times, and is now on solid.
Started off with just the stupid Passlock light...and now this  :E:
At the rate I'm going, soon I will have a Christmas tree stuck in my face for the daily drive. And it's not even snowing yet  :(
And with all the special tooling you need for today's cars, made me wish I still had my '75 'Burban.
At least you could solve problems. Now - it's code this...code that....
Oh, your scanner doesn't read B codes?? Too bad for you. Spend a wheelbarrow full of money...and for what?? :mad:
Least GM could have done is kept them fixable - and made in Canada and the USA - instead of Mexico/China/Brazil or whatever they are doing these days!!
Blah! Rant over.

CarMech1969
 
Technically, todays cars with the codes will let any shade tree mechanic diagnose things that they never could have in the past.

Of course back then you still needed special tools.. No way you could adjust timing without a timing light, or check your sensors without an analog gauge. And when you had that misfire you needed to pull plugs, do compression tests on every cylinder, spray with gas to look for vacuum leaks and a bunch of other "special" stuff... Now adays a simple code reader can tell you MUCH of that stuff. Only thing is you can throw a bunch of codes and have to be able to sort out what it really means..  Thats where forums like this help with which hole to follow the rabbit down.

I have worked on older cars... No thanks.. Newer cars with a code reader is MUCH easier to diagnose...

Rodney
 
i had the 265 code along with u1041
i checked the ground below drivers door cleaned and re tightened then was left with 265 code
i then took module and re-flowed the joints
that did not fix the problem
so i sent it to my airbags.com
when i got it back i did not have the 265 code but abs light stayed on
then i was getting the u1041 code and it would not clear
so i took my multi meter and put it on 20k ohms and started at the battery
i found 0.9 at the body and 0.8 at the frame by the engine but i had 3.12 at the ground location for ebcm and the body still had 0.8
i put a jumper from body to frame
put dielectric on 2 pin connector at ebcm and no more abs light
 
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