Will my speakers and amp be okay? Will they work good without getting hot or any

This is the amp that I got.



These are the two speakers I also got. I'll admit. I jumped the guy and started poop before I did my research. Now I'm hoping I can play the two subwoofer without worry of damaging them and playing them good at there inteded capacity for lack of better term.  I have the speakers wired in parrell so I got 2 ohms. I know these are the best subs or amps. So someone just please tell me they will be fine or just brake the bad news to me. Thank you.

BOSS brand is garbage... just being honest..

overkill for those 2 subs.. however you CAN run them.. start with the gain all the way down..

mis-matched components though for sure..

It's been a while since I bench tested anything from Boss, but intracate pretty much hit it on the head. They dramatically overrate their gear. They give you peak at 15.5V. and are still overrating it. where most manufacturers give your RMS values at 14.4V and 12.5V. which are more realistic. Not to mention, you are going to see some losses running a traditional MOSFET Class B amp. The Comp 10's should run fairly decent for what they are in the 100-125 RMS range. I'd be surprised if you get more than 400RMS @2 Ohm out of that amp. As intracate said, wire it in with the gain all the way down and slowly bring it up until you get a tiny bit of distortion, or it starts to clip, then back it down a bit. This is the easiest way to tune it in without any diagnostic equipment and to avoid damaging your gear.

BOSS is junk...

You will NOT want to run your subs at 2ohm...
Especially with a junk amp..

If you were using a competition amp maybe...

The amp shows 250 watt RMS @ 4ohm.

You will want to try running your speakers in series and see how they sound. You might get that amplifier to put out decent sound and last a little longer if you run your speakers in series.

If you MUST keep with that amp you are better off having two and running each of those speakers on their own amplifier.
Depending on how efficient those speakers are even if running at 125 watts (assuming the boss amp is rated in a conventional manner..) they should sound OK with that amplifier.

Personally I think the amplifier will be the crutch in your system.

Rodney

Sell the "BOSS" ? And buy a fosgat punch.

mjrowley said:

Sell the "BOSS" ? And buy a fosgat punch.

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Not sure why the suggestion toward a Fosgate, maybe it's your favorite brand?, but he's attempting to run a pair of Kicker Comp 10's. Even the smallest Punch series amp would be overkill, He'd be much better suited with a prime series amp, specifically the R250X1. you could wire the pair of 4ohm subs down to a 2ohm load and push 125RMS into each of them for around $100. This is what I would do if I had those subs and were going to "buy a fosgat"

Okay. Thanks everybody for your input. Let's say, I decided to sell my subwoofer box. Get another box that would fit two 12" subs. Which are some good decent priced subs and amp that would go well with them. I have the 2 10" kickers but I just want more bass. I don't wanna shake the house 10 miles away but I do want to shake my passengers in my truck once in a while. Especially lady friends  I listen to things like rock , r&b, hip hop, rap , country. I listen to any genre honestly. But for songs where bass isn't required I always have the option to turn down.

brownprider07 said:

Okay. Thanks everybody for your input. Let's say, I decided to sell my subwoofer box. Get another box that would fit two 12" subs. Which are some good decent priced subs and amp that would go well with them. 

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That's a super open ended question, and I'm not totally sure I follow. Are you planning to keep the 10s and add a pair of 12s, or swap them out for 12s? Getting an underseat box that will hold 12s is not a problem, it's finding 12s that are shallow enough to mount in it w/ a decent frequency response curve that's the issue. The vast majority of 12s, even those with small voice coils and magnets are too deep to fit in an underseat box. I'd just stick with the Comp 10's and find a reliable amp to power them, even being kicker's "bargain" sub, they're not too shabby for what they are and the price. If you are going to keep them and put 12s in the midgate, the options are endless, but if you were going to go that route, I would try to sell those subs and put as much spare change as possible into the new 12s and a new amp. Keep in mind that you may need to replace/upgrade your power wire/ground wire as well, as we don't know what ga./makeup and quality of the cable you are running now.

Pretty much echoing what calicak is saying but will really be dependent on your preference, skill level and money willing to spend.

You could go with some quality DD Audio subs and matching amplifier and put them in a sealed midgate box and be OMG.. (Not sure if would be on the cost or the sound quality... Probably a little of both.)

Or you could go with some cheap kicker 12".

Realistically when you look at most brands your going to find they have cheap models and more expensive models. But you really have to match your speakers to the amplifiers.

The factory sub in my '03 was a ported speaker that was somewhere around a 6" speaker. Never measured it. I have 1 10" HART speaker (Defunct company for about 15 years) The speaker is really nice but it is 25 years old. I actually have 2 but its partner buzzes when I hook it up so it is likely blown.

Just looking at a company like JL Audio. They have subs that go across the spectrum. How much you willing to spend? And to power a great speaker you need a pretty good amplifier.

Go to best buy or a local car audio shop and listen to different setups and see what sounds better to you. Just understand the setup will likely sound different in your truck.

Yeah. I understand guys. They actually make a 12 inch subwoofer box that will go under the seat. The box replaces the midgate , is a pretty penny. So I would more than likely stick with the underwear one and look for subwoofer that would fit it and a good amp that would power them. As far as how good kicker brand is on the spectrum. I'm not sure and like you guys Stated an underseat box doesn't give me much room to begin with. As far as money goes for both the 10 inch kickers I spent 114. The amp I believe was 50 or 60. I'm willing to go just a bit higher to achieve what I would want and be satisfied. Like I said I don't necessarily want to shake the ground just inside the truck as much as can. So I'm not looking to get the best quality possible. So I don't know honestly. You guys know more than I do hah 

I am assuming you have an amplifier and speakers in place now...

Tis the yard sale season...

You can always keep an eye open for local yard sales and join some yard sale pages on facebook in your area. Also check craigslist for stuff. You can generally find good deals looking for used equipment. Just be aware you are gambling and you want to make sure you get good information about the equipment your interested in. A cell phone with internet service and searching for information about the units is not a bad thing.

If you have a setup where it is easy to hook up another amp and speakers then you can always try them out. Try to buy the speakers in a box to test them out properly.

You may get lucky and find a midgate box cheap as well. Last time I looked the place I bought my underseat box I paid $75 for it but could have had a midgate box for about $100-150. In those prefabbed boxes be aware if they are advertised as 5/8" material most premium boxes are made with 3/4" MDF because it doesn't flex as easily. 5/8 is slightly less and may flex a little when compared to 3/4" boxes. Not likely you will notice the difference on a day to day basis though.

Rodney

Shortly here. I will be ordering the midgate sub box from car audio factory. It's going to be the 2 12" ported one. I couldn't find another one. It's pretty expensive but hey I won't be happy with underseat and behind seat boxes. This one will even be sprayed with bedliner. Most other ones where like carpet and they where up there too and some even said 100 more to be sprayed. So unless you guys know a better place , I am going with them. So yes I will be replacing subwoofers and amplifier. I currently have 4 gauge wire in there now. So I think that should be fine.

Not sure how much the car audio factory midgate box is, but AK Audio in Rome, GA will build a midgate box built to any specs you want and ship it anywhere in the continental U.S. for $500.
They have pre-built ones that meets the specs of many  subs for for $389-$425 shipped.
They have a mail order service and an eBay store too. I think their eBay store is custom-audio555, or custom-car-audio555. something along those lines.

My underseat box was 5/8" and was sprayed with bedliner material. My impression is that it is a very cheaply made box. But for what I use it for it is OK. Don't be surprised if you have fitment issues with them.

The company Calicak mentions sounds like a good deal. I know nothing about the company but for what it is does sound like a good deal.

Rodney

redheadedrod said:

My underseat box was 5/8" and was sprayed with bedliner material. My impression is that it is a very cheaply made box. But for what I use it for it is OK. Don't be surprised if you have fitment issues with them.

The company Calicak mentions sounds like a good deal. I know nothing about the company but for what it is does sound like a good deal.

Rodney

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I trust AK fully. They are well know in the competition world as a box fabricator. They use a minimum of 3/4" MDF for box construction. If you are going with crazy power, or a high power SQ setup, they will use 1". My world record box is a modified version of one of their designs constructed w/ 1" and some extra bracing/support. I know multiple people that use their boxes and don't know of anyone that has had a complaint. Not that what you're going to be doing is going to warrant full 3/4" construction, but why settle for a 9/16, or 5/8" box if you can get a 3/4" at the same price (unless you're concerned about the added weight)

http://caraudiofactory.com/20022016-chevy-avalanche-cadillac-ported-2x12-p-569.html

This is the box I will be going. I just need to find some 12" subwoofers and an amp that will play nicely with them.

I got 2 15" kicker subwoofers svc, rated at 250 rms each. I'm going to wiring them in parallel to get a 2 ohm. Thing is I'm going crazy trying to find an mono amplifier for them. I'm on a slight budget but I want to get a good one. Any suggestions ? I plan on upgrading everything later on but for now I need something to play nicely with these.

brownprider07 said:

Thing is I'm going crazy trying to find an mono amplifier for them.

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Really?
I can think of 7 just off the top of my head. (it's not my fault I feel obligated to read pretty much every manufacturer's product catalog and have an absurdly efficient memory)
The underlying are good bang for the buck
Fosgate R500X1D
Fosgagte PBR500X1
Kicker CX600.1
Kicker DXA 500.1
JL  JX500/1
If you need to go super budget friendly, look at the Alpine MRV-M500 or MB Quart Xa1-500.1

There are dozens of 500W RMS 2 Ohm stable amps out there, you must be looking in the wrong places. 500 rms @ 2 is one of, if not the most popular configuration for most entry level setups, nearly every manufacturer makes an amp w/ those specs.

Thank you Calicak89 for that ! I was ready to order the "hifonics ZRX1216.1D 1200W Mono Car Amp". I mean it even has a subsonic filter. And it's rated at 600w rms at 2ohm. I keep reading it's better to have a bit more power , isn't it ?

brownprider07 said:

Thank you Calicak89 for that ! I was ready to order the "hifonics ZRX1216.1D 1200W Mono Car Amp". I mean it even has a subsonic filter. And it's rated at 600w rms at 2ohm. I keep reading it's better to have a bit more power , isn't it ?

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I'm not terribly familiar w/ the ZRX1216.1D.  Hifonics is owned by Maxxsonics, who also manufactures product under the brands Crunch, and Autotek.
The one common complaint I hear across the board about these 3 brands is overheating and thermal protection. I don't know where you plan to mount your amp, but make sure it has plenty of air space (important for any amp, but especially this one). As far as "it's better to have a bit more power , isn't it ?" I'm going to have to disagree. If you are a decent tuner and have tuned systems before, I can see how having more power (more than the driver is rated for) available may be a good thing if you are running a brand that consistently underrates their drivers, ie. Sundown or DC, but Kicker is not a brand that does so, your 250RMS subs may accommodate 260-270RMS, but running a sub at its maximum consistently is going to lead to premature failure, either from overheating and burning up the voice coil or it's core/adhesive or overexcursion. Byproducts of over excursion can lead to glue failure of the voice coil attachments and mechanical failure of the cone structure. Putting an a head-unit w/ a strong preout signal and an amp capable of producing more power than the drivers can handle in the hands of someone who is untrained in system tuning can be a recipe for disaster. On the other hand, it can lead to getting the absolute limit out of your equipment, again , the call is yours. 

All I will add is that you generally get what you pay for with audio equipment...

You do NOT need to run at 2ohm either. GENERALLY, if an amp is 4ohm and can go 2ohm it looses some efficiency. You can look at the ratings of the noise floor at 2ohm and 4ohm if they list them to be able to tell for sure. I personally would run each speaker off its own channel and would only run a sealed box. But I want my bass to be as clean and accurate as possible. Some don't care as much.

I am running 2 10" subs off a 2x250 amplifier. The subs are rated to 300 watts and while they are under rated they are also 20 years old and the company is no longer in business. I actually will likely get a pair of 12" subs for my truck once I redo the bed to house the amplifiers.

SOME amplifiers are built in such a way that 2ohm and 4ohm have the same noise rating but won't be a cheap amplifier.

The HiFonics amplifiier and the others that Calicak are lower end amplifiers and are not likely to last long lives. You are better off spending a little more and get a good quality amplifier that will last a long time and not have cooling issues and such.

Yard sales and Craigs List are still decent options there...

Rodney