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Where can Iconnect remote for amp.

lucky19

Full Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
227
Location
Odessa Texas
Ive been without any music for almost a year. Where can I connect the remote that shuts off the amp when I turn the key off. The BCM is not a good connection form me as it shorted it out before.
 
What year do you have lucky19
 
Are you using an aftermarket radio or factory radio?
After market amplifier I assume?

Aftermarket radio should have an amp turn on.

If using the factory radio with after market amplifier you can use an adapter. PAC has them. If you have a factory radio running an aftermarket amplifier you can use the 2 channel Audio Control unit that allows any amplified signal into it and puts out a controlled level. They turn the amplifier on when it sees audio.

If you switch on your amplifier with the radio via a relay expect to have a turn on and off thump which is bad for your speakers. You REALLY want your radio to control the amplifier in one way or another.



 
Yes factory radio to aftermarket amp. Happen to know the part # to the pac adapter? I know a have a pax adapter already behind the radio for my speakers.
 
Ok so....

You need to describe your system a little more...

Factory head unit...  Does this directly run any of your speakers now?

What does the amplifier run?

If your factory unit is intended to run after market amplifiers...

I suggest picking up audio control units that will do most of the work for you..

Either the LC6i which will take in any powered inputs into it and puts out amplifier compatible outputs and including the amp turn on without a thump or the LCQ-1 that does the same thing but also has an adjustable bass boost and an EQ built in.

I personally bought an LC8i for use in another vehicle.

The idea is these units go between your head unit and your amplifiers and allow you much more control over the outputs.
You wouldn't need any other convertors.

I have an older PAC unit in my truck but can't get rid of the alternator noise with the unit so I would need one of the newer ones to get rid of the noise. These also look for sound on one of the channels and will turn on the amplifer when sound is detected.

I am assuming you are using after market amplifers to run your speakers or are trying to.
 
My system is a factory but I replaced it with the Nav one. Which I needed an amp to power the speakers since I didn't have the Bose amp. It goes from HU to the older pac adapter to my amp then speakers. Couldn't connect remote there cus it would stay on. And yes I have the alt wine noise. I will look in to those adapters you posted.
Thank you
 
If you are not getting any signal spike (what causes the thump rod mentioned), and have a pre-amp (RCA) input signal from the head unit to the amps location already and only need a remote turn on, you can find one under the dash on the drivers side.
There is a junction block hidden by a snap on cover above and between the brake and e-brake pedals.
It has 11 blocks in it labeled x5 through x15.
x14 is your winner. (second one from the bottom in the left hand column)
x14 has 8 ports, 7 of them occupied
The taps in the bock are in the following arrangement.

7(ignition)      5(constant)    3(empty)    1(ground)
8(accessory)    6                    4                2

If you are using a preamp signal and not line level inputs (speaker wire) to get the signal to your amp, using a ground loop isolator in line with the preamp signal just before the amp. Metra and PAC both make them, and they can be had for about $15 If i remember correctly, the PAC unit is the SN1 or SNI1
If the HU has preamp outs and you can get a clean signal to the amp via the use of the ground loop isolator, this may be the easiest and cheapest route.

If you have to utilize line level inputs and convert the signal so the amp can process it, placing a convertor with some level of control in line is a good idea (as rod mentioned) it allows you to control the signal and will act as a buffer and process out the signal spikes upon power up and shut down. The AC LC6i and LC7i are both good units to accomplish this and can be had around the $100-110 price point.
 
Note that Audio Control DOES have a 2 channel unit as well if you only need two channels and will likely be much less.

The older PAC unit uses transformers and resistors to match the levels where as newer ones are all digital and optically isolated as I understand.

Not sure how to say this but the whine is caused because of the difference in ground potential between the amplifier and head unit.

One other potential issue...
In older trucks ('02 - '06) the BOSE system came in two flavors. Standard and Premium. I believe the Premium came in the EXT and the standard was all that came in the Avalanches. (I have not heard of any that did.)

The standard BOSE amplifier acts like an old power booster used to. It receives the amplified output from the head unit and amplifies it further. It uses a standard "turn on" wire. (Note when I ran this wire directly to my amps when my head unit was off I got a constant thump every 30 seconds when the key was on. Because of this I used the "smart" turnon that the PAC unit I have has.)

The premium amplifier took a constant line out audio from the head unit and is controlled through the datacom line to turn it on and to control the amplified level. Unless PAC (Or someone else) has an adapter to do this manually you likely won't ever get proper sound out of the system without using the premium amplifier. You can hook up the premium amplifier then use that to feed the correct audio to the Audio Control LC6i unit and then from THAT unit run your amplifiers.

Note that '08 trucks might be different. I do have documentation that covers GM vehicles up through 2009.

I have a 2009 Cadillac CTS that I am going through this with right now. Its standard 8 channel stereo is similar to the truck basic bose system, the 10 channel premium sound that the navigation system has uses a different amplifier that requires the databus connection and there is no adapter for it for my car so I have to use the premium amplifier. To power after market amplifiers I bought an LC8i which will combine the channels from the factory amplifier together and allow me to run a 2, 4, 6 or 8 channel system off it. Will accept I think up to 300 watt inputs and output low level audio that is compatible with standard amplifiers. They call it an OEM integration module i think on AC's site.

Anyhow if your only issue is the remote turn on then I just wasted a bunch of time typing but maybe it will help out someone else... ;)
 
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