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Author Topic: Remote Locking Tailgate  (Read 856 times)
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james21
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« on: 01/04/17 08:11 pm »

I need to get A new lock for my tail gate, my stock one has seized up. I was thinking it would be a perfect time to upgrade to the electric locking one, but I haven't got a clue where to look.

Also on another note, when I called the local Chevy dealer, the parts guy said it was $300 for just the cylinder, any thoughts are appreciated.
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Avalanche 1500 BLK NFE w/ 4.56, locking Diff & 18inch wheels. MODS: Amber DRLs; Sunroof, Confer Rack; Volant Intake; MSD; NGK Iridiums; Magnaflow SS; PIAA low beams; HID Highs; Mercury Xenon 885 fogs; SOR front, WAAG rear; SS Bug Shield; Predator Dash & Grille lights, Whelen Strobes & TIR3s.
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« Reply #1 on: 01/04/17 08:33 pm »

This is the one I put on mine years ago.. The only thing is it shows cutting the behind the bezel, you don't have to cut out the where they show. Just remove the handle and you can slide the actuator into position without cutting the hole..


http://www.bigfloridacountry.com/avalanchetailgatelock.htm

http://www.dynoproducts.net/locks/dynolock/dyno-elelock.htm#chevy_models
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02 2500 Summit White-Loaded, Heated Leather Seats, Sunroof, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 Navigation System with back-up cam, front cam and Blue Tooth. Nelson Tune, UPD/K&N, Dual Magnaflow SS Mufflers and 3" Tailpipes, Powermaster 225 Amp Alternator, Dual Optima Batteries, Full Traction 6" Lift with 305/70/17 Goodyear MT/R's and SSBrakes, Calipers and Rotors, E-Z Down Tail Gate.

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« Reply #2 on: 01/04/17 08:38 pm »

Not sure about the conversion idea; however, this may help reclaim what you have, considering the cost of the cylinder:

Let's Tinker
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« Reply #3 on: 01/04/17 10:30 pm »

How is this one.

I got a EXT tailgate skin fiberglassed the handle part in put a door popper on it.

Let me know if need more pictures

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james21
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« Reply #4 on: 01/05/17 06:49 pm »

This is the one I put on mine years ago.. The only thing is it shows cutting the behind the bezel, you don't have to cut out the where they show. Just remove the handle and you can slide the actuator into position without cutting the hole..


http://www.bigfloridacountry.com/avalanchetailgatelock.htm

http://www.dynoproducts.net/locks/dynolock/dyno-elelock.htm#chevy_models

So the first one, says you have to cut a hole in the tailgate, not happening. The second one says 60mins (for a mechanic) and basic hand tools, so this may be the one to go with, unless I just want to clean the lock out. I think I'm going to try the cleaning route and if it cannot be done, then I'll get the electric one. I cannot begin to comprehend how a lock cylinder costs $300.
« Last Edit: 01/05/17 06:53 pm by james21 » Logged

Avalanche 1500 BLK NFE w/ 4.56, locking Diff & 18inch wheels. MODS: Amber DRLs; Sunroof, Confer Rack; Volant Intake; MSD; NGK Iridiums; Magnaflow SS; PIAA low beams; HID Highs; Mercury Xenon 885 fogs; SOR front, WAAG rear; SS Bug Shield; Predator Dash & Grille lights, Whelen Strobes & TIR3s.
Newest Mod: 2nd Black Stealth Bumper; PC Xterrain; RCD 6", Rigid LED Bars front & rear; Dual Shocks.

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« Reply #5 on: 01/05/17 07:08 pm »

Like I said you don't have to cut a hole, you can slide it into place without cutting...
« Last Edit: 01/06/17 07:17 pm by Randy » Logged

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« Reply #6 on: 01/08/17 09:34 pm »

James--  not sure what year you have, but mine (03) has seized up twice in 13 years.   Each time, I've been able to unscrew the plastic bezels and simply lubricate the parts on the cylinder to restore PERFECT factory condition.  Don't just squirt stuff in the keyhole, get out the alan wrenches.   I promise its easy to fix...   just saying....  10 minutes tops...

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« Reply #7 on: 01/09/17 03:18 pm »

Cutting a hole in the tailgate isn't as bad as it sounds...  If you follow the template, the bezel will cover it up again once you reinstall it.

The only other thing you will need to do is drill a small hole in the bottom of the tailgate for the wires.  Will need a long drillbit (1/4") and drill a hole just to the left (driver's side) of the center rivet.  There's a bar across the middle of the tailgate, and will need to drill through that also.
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Click the pic to listen along!
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« Reply #8 on: 01/11/17 10:23 pm »

You don't have to cut or hack up anything (other than drill holes).

You can feed the wires that come with it as long as they have the shield over them. You just fish them down the rod guide (there's room see pic), you do not need to remove the tailgate skin, take the latch off the drivers side and fish them out, drill a hole at the bottom of the door (red arrow) and fish the wires down and out there, mark the holes that hold the actuator, remove the handle and pull the fiberglass skin back where they show to cut and slide it in.

I've modded mine 15 years ago and it never failed once..


Sorry MS03 2500 for using your tailgate to illustrate...
« Last Edit: 01/11/17 10:33 pm by Randy » Logged

02 2500 Summit White-Loaded, Heated Leather Seats, Sunroof, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 Navigation System with back-up cam, front cam and Blue Tooth. Nelson Tune, UPD/K&N, Dual Magnaflow SS Mufflers and 3" Tailpipes, Powermaster 225 Amp Alternator, Dual Optima Batteries, Full Traction 6" Lift with 305/70/17 Goodyear MT/R's and SSBrakes, Calipers and Rotors, E-Z Down Tail Gate.

More to follow...

22' Velocity Boat powered by 502 BB and Stage III Procharger 750+HP
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« Reply #9 on: 01/12/17 06:55 pm »

tailgate actuator GTG?

I usually have 2-4 in my mod boxes all the time.
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« Reply #10 on: 01/12/17 09:09 pm »

Haven't seen a GTG like that in a long time ItsStopher.
No problem Randy, that why I post them.

PS throw in a backup camera while you have it apart. 
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« Reply #11 on: 01/12/17 09:25 pm »


PS throw in a backup camera while you have it apart. 


Good advice, I ran my back up camera wires in the same spot...
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02 2500 Summit White-Loaded, Heated Leather Seats, Sunroof, Pioneer AVIC-Z3 Navigation System with back-up cam, front cam and Blue Tooth. Nelson Tune, UPD/K&N, Dual Magnaflow SS Mufflers and 3" Tailpipes, Powermaster 225 Amp Alternator, Dual Optima Batteries, Full Traction 6" Lift with 305/70/17 Goodyear MT/R's and SSBrakes, Calipers and Rotors, E-Z Down Tail Gate.

More to follow...

22' Velocity Boat powered by 502 BB and Stage III Procharger 750+HP
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« Reply #12 on: 01/12/17 10:15 pm »

If you look close at the completed tailgate there 2 cameras one on each side. It's one of those "I may as well".

I only did that because I wanted a rolled look

« Last Edit: 01/12/17 10:17 pm by MS03 2500 » Logged

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« Reply #13 on: 01/13/17 09:32 am »

Do you have a handle on the inside or do you have "poppers" that push your tailgate out when released?
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« Reply #14 on: 01/13/17 11:44 am »

No handle per say, just a stainless steel cable with a steel ring. When I replaced the tailgate bumpers it has enough pressure to pop it open.



« Last Edit: 01/13/17 11:55 am by MS03 2500 » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: 01/14/17 03:31 pm »

Have to say it does look nice... For your backup lights since you have two do you choose one or the other somehow?

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« Reply #16 on: 01/14/17 04:34 pm »

I use a 4 channel Video Switcher from Rage Cam in Comstock Michigan
I used the trailer plug reverse circuit to power both

http://ragecams.com/shop/index.php

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230561559278?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



« Last Edit: 01/14/17 04:37 pm by MS03 2500 » Logged

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« Reply #17 on: 01/14/17 07:56 pm »

Hmm, that place is just north of GR so pretty close. My bad weather route takes me probably within 2 miles of that place. Might have to check them out.


Rodney
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