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Loosing/Burning coolant... Cracked Heads? Need Help

Markie93

Full Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2016
Messages
14
Hey Guys,

I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche z71, with the 5.3L V8. Bought it in June 2016 with 123k miles, now up to 126,000.

Since I bought it, I have noticed the coolant low when doing a typical under the hood inspection. Previously I have just been topping it off, but eventually I realized, I shouldn't need to be topping it off. No signs of leaks anywhere and I have looked extensively.

After the truck is warmed up and sitting over night, the next morning's start up usually greets me with a thick cloud of white smoke, some times a hint of blue... which I assume to be burning coolant and maybe a little oil. I often take 5-10 hours drives and notice that the coolant level doesn't change that much after these long trips, when the engine temp is hot. Only when I take many short trips, is when it lowers. My oil pressure also decreases as my oil's age increases. On a new oil change, at temperature and at idle, I am over 40psi. after a few thousand miles, is becomes less than 40 psi.

I have had my oil analyzed through Amsoil's oil analysis (Horizon is who they go through I think). They game back with the following results.

2WafTfc3v_G595LRVQvGBZf9ZfqRxT_FQijEsrjUagz6EkPOUSEPrTnRkUVJllxWj8Vtf_l28Nqg27rXCmphtH1Tnds5jRMCZe-AIAyTazK8GFJJSowhhb_9JPhDOX48LkxLd4jPqN9T5G5zIzTO63UsOCPX_F2QrGJlbfsVE0HC9REY0nsW4hexPtukdvGOgawKiLEvij6I862nOwXnLienHbg5egdt4uvH7CtMFz8tt4iO99Co5TTABaTlNZdplVQ8pT_pohN8QsxqfNmPq8rCz8hasCeyz3Zq__HzT0jJQrhAwwQmPrrmIA4l-MLNqSnCG7guY95F2MFSBcPYcHhpae5VgXTHm0JU3UnarOIlXKic1EkanpShwaJKshShjUAAV6qY_7GCNwrYtl3c9eSl4QwTNaRk5SUHkcPY84z38D0sOc936iAUR0BIVW_lEjDBEY9EzyFBjbTou_8gp2eY0a8L0OserkaEgt2bi6pYTdRv_llmh_xzo6xB9P7QxBbsL-BoQYZnDTzPV3BpQnsiMu72mj-7jPGqMBNweUQ4yAa8zK8a76eTkBJYoKcgOl4uUngRUfEqENxfbipgRKy7vUX7oaTJ9GR_YOLQOROqzhidz4rnt8_BsbU5ZFyZJKJptvN6Gi8kbIi7gmPiuUlPuWWp30LGcs1KGw9zu-o=w512-h662-no


Apparently, they mark oil as severe if the sodium level reaches 300ppm... mine is 3x that. Clearly, there is coolant in my oil. However, I don't have an exact ratio of how much coolant is in there. could be only a percent or less. The oil on the dipstick is never that chocolate milk color. It just looks like regular good oil. Under the cap however, I am seeing that mayonnaise colored sludge, as well as under my passenger side valve cover as seen below:

XjfYLzbA22ugOGC47u9yYWyysQqj-ySYuCR-L2zsXn3UkeT8n7xg8q-C21SHAmhjFRENq62k5KRspBanWc5h87rIyXbJ2mmyOT1jUa5n1Q6ywUC3yVU2IUZN6Ei0Ckv0Ym4ICGPQJLOaUTaefKoqFhBwki_vMX2qFAjLyOHNrBG3sTIuFqy3cz5cn1I2pYrGpAtpCzPlOwyNjo-QoMJeLIZcdTVJfZMGdAY99FWIHfR_NDLd5qDZWaVyBcxXeWPlwuDiXrwggScDFsqPnOFOd4zJbR8JfaqlvfRKx8F5E0qsgn6xYBFEDkxcObBQ5K5FNRUakGnxZmScQAoOa9PIN2w3ZF9PgF-Rc8XTJo_Ejs6EAMNIXif-ykfngp6UtkzbWEoKHcogTMzjzu60mYI31vniiNGcBOE_ztjO0itFjaWK6a2AXa14rVq6i0VbpDaSKWViq6ujcO0dlcGqpkmsswNdixG3muoVXt_FUZVzeyNnDZksmLKM1apLlr4zPQ_NOnJx6vcDqWy272mAZI2v_hy2OehIMqZL5okALJwxfX4jCl2MRY5J2fiT2_EHhJQMidpN2-WBm6D458E5MHGh8ddQnwTGnQhCURM3ZHIIshk5YG-M0Q=w1177-h662-no


So... some coolant is in my oil. I think that is clear.

Did a compression check, and all looked good, as far as I can tell. Here are the results.

fe5b886.jpg


1- 160 psi
2- 160 psi
3- 210 psi
4- 180 psi
5- 155 psi
6- 155 psi
7- 180 psi
8- 180 psi

Spark plugs looked good. A bit of oil on the threads and a little white on the tips, but they were consistent throughout all 8 cylinders. One think I noticed while uploading the pictures, I noted that cylinder 3 looked a little more oily and darker than the rest. This one also had the highest compression by 30 psi... Could this mean anything?

hF7Dk0D9aGvYcb4AbMBlgxkvT4ze66-bSEwdYKqyiYLU8fh6F536PAlRlsmCefDba_mgfWCCkCaRP7rEe5wuge3VCLPMzYjcgVVXwbaVmi4MROMY2Gt34cg2KW2cIex67SBtYC71lV4ATQufVLZEyJii5xr5N0CA-6bLzK5Ax-ppWKsGybgZn1QrN9DFLLsgFOkNE2NIP8a91-Sg74Ads4TutjweoHVrwVscwLgl5xyeLuHjtlFgDVFrQQF4-T9UrhCum7Wx15KlyM7pluODe8lGMvTzw_F3SdJITiEMRdAiNU5rAmlIOLmy0JCOT9zAorvcP8wI7RYTHs1_PeEV-Np9nGzg6msPqqEQ_HODsu7dFerxuCykHS86s8yUqQ_jjE5zk3PNbtUyoUTMt6v50NPYno5haMWHl5Cp2Wq_UdZ5J5Yn6da2yPBmv3zT34VUPEp_zCGoVgs1MUWc34fPfrtSCj5k0cV3CMwptDH_gUYL9_r9AZFtgb4WV2RS8VuXYuYFVwGhgftqfQ-1RtCGUeDWELZvtglo4Tduw18JrRsxhxx_FbfYwVkSL3Ca3DS3Lk5XHaR22tQMV8-N3DwqCfaIfNYBxeF81i0LKbpJG3-m6Ah9vXnk-E7rtLXI97o7cGN-rJviRRo4QMg97Egcwe_-f7q8DbGnJHmHl23-IZI=w1177-h662-no


wVVZkgJfj8koSHNWxjqT_LxhJ0U8vwR2xkPwxva-YoyaDnXDqaoV0FBvJSC1dLd0vHv1YkgtHMwmPETrdEGW9JCKrmU1DqnAVKmhQO8B0MYDni6daZ773Jbazgzf8PyMxNHokhGnjbfjSs0L1l5MneOsdT0aKyLS3IvGdWnvzedlZ8_9YCy65JhQYYI0XLZdj6UBaojY8ORqURZ8Imp_DDKnn56Horuts13tjWc707leLn0DllG5CxxArPjP2jkoEHiB3rkOMlKXoILtmlyd2ynQKRGsrR3xFu3OsPsWyxcB3JX2mKBQ93QeevqWx0AAw4pPVni6Wx1NpAdADp2-i2xQB7OPSNbCCqjOPfjl6ZiII6kdchAu05Lut1vlDeAtWCKYYhPFyy_ikNrwtQNxOfb8yr_2_4M9kePwJm5MiiZRl8oZd2_8GXOjnLb0npHu9T_UU38UNjYUa5vPkA5MTmdRclhv3PGOw7XaWnIp53gXQHIXRoxu7ArjaQYsIog9vo_GFcFwkHlJFblFSa_7ly73Cc_17gcmp0JlcjQlP6p8S8W4Yilk3Y2gzFZb4UWEuunH2iAmRNU6gI-j_q76OjZn8qn1uzdaezjkO0xYT9W7xg8ADw=w1177-h662-no


Next I did a coolant pressure test. That seemed to pass very well. Only loosing 1-2psi over the course of 12 hours, which I can probably blame most of it on the hard to seal overflow vent.

Only other thing I can think of is possible a chemical block test. which I haven't done yet.

Basically I am trying to figure out if it is a head gasket, or the infamous cracked head. Anything else I can do to confirm before I remove the head to find out? Being my daily driver and a college student, it is difficult to justify either A) spending $600-1200 on new (used) heads. B) tearing appart my daily driver when transportation is needed daily. I just don't want to tear apart the heads if I know for sure the head gaskets are alright.

Here are some links:
Technical Service Bulletin: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2008-12-05_142924_Coolant_loss_5.3.pdf
Info on cracked heads: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2008-12-05_142924_Coolant_loss_5.3.pdf
A trouble shooting guide which I have tried: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.8L-5.3L-6.0L/blown-head-gasket-test-1

What should I do? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
Jake






 
Check the front of passenger head. You should see a number... 862 or 706.

706 is the prone to crack head..

I have the cost of the pieces down to about $500...

Check out my thread on my similar issue...

Remove the valve covers to check for sign of coolant.

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,150622.0.html

My truck has the 706 heads... I found a place that has rebuilt 862 heads for ~$300 for the pair and getting a head gasket set from rock auto (~$170), the head bolts are about $18 a side and the exhaust bolts about $7 for both sides.

I will be replacing the oil sender at the same time.

 
Sorry if the pictures weren't showing up earlier. Please let me know if they still can't be seen.

The valve cover is off from the passenger side. Also, the head I have is 706.

Sounds like a great deal. Where did you find the heads?

Thanks for your help, I will look through your post. Did you (or did you have to) replace both sides?
 
Yep 706 is the head I had that cracked. Get the 862 heads and do both and be done. Which is what I did.also knock sensor are also a good idea to replace since your there.
 
http://stores.ebay.com/Machine-Shop-Pros/

This is the place I plan to order my heads through.

Looks like those heads were used 99-08 by this add from this store:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-GM-Vortec-Cylinder-Heads-PAIR-CAST-862-4-8-5-3-99-08-/201313562573?rmvSB=true

If you look at my thread you can see the pictures that show the standing coolant in the heads. Last oil change did not show sign of coolant in it so was hoping just changing the water pump would fix it. After loosing 3/4 of a gallon of coolant since last oil change I pulled the covers and saw what I posted in that thread.

Truck is parked until I can order the heads and other parts to put it together.

Coincidence, yesterday when leaving for work noticed my neighbor was getting a delivery and he told me both heads on his truck were cracked so he bought a new engine and was delivered yesterday. His has a 4.8 engine in it.  Apparently his engine was knocking when he checked and found the coolant. My truck sounds fine when running so hoping just swapping the heads will get my engine another 5 years.

Rodney
 
FYI - 4.8 pistons fit in the 5.3 (5.3 is basically a stroked 4.:cool: but will give the 5.3 higher compression as they are not dished as the 5.3's pistons.
 
So I looked into the company selling those heads... Machine Shop Pros, the first google search that came up was the Better Business Bureau with a ton of complaints. I would stay away form them. I almost purchased them until a few friends told me to make sure of some things. If you do get them, let me know how it goes.

 
Would be interested in hearing about the complaints. I haven't ordered from them yet but they seem to be a legitimate business?

Rodney
 
Not sure what you have been up to, but I am currently swapping my heads.

Wondered if anyone has an service manual and could send me the driver side removal instructions/ head installation instructions and torques?
 
In my thread I posted where I got mine. You will want to look through that thread as it gives some important information.

I ended up dropping my truck off with all the parts to a well certified GM mechanic who does work on the side. I bought my heads for I think it was $300 shipped. I just sent my old ones back yesterday. The mechanic told me he didn't see any major issues with my engine. Looked good especially for the number of miles on it. Since it is not currently my daily driver I told him to take his time with it. He was good enough to do the job for me and charging me $500 for the labor. When I did the intake the lowest quote on labor I got was $300 so I am quite happy having a good GM mechanic do mine. I have about $600 invested in parts.

While I don't condone pirating if you do a search I bet you MAY find the service manual online. All else fails you can go to all data and "rent" service for a couple days and pick up the information cheaply. The whole process is pretty long so you may benefit from looking at the whole factory procedure.
 
Markie93 said:
Not sure what you have been up to, but I am currently swapping my heads.

Wondered if anyone has an service manual and could send me the driver side removal instructions/ head installation instructions and torques?

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=chevy+5.3+head+removal

Try you tube and in Sperry Tech Center has steps for removal of outer components.
Someone may post with torque specs I found them on line for my daughter?s car with google.

  There is also Chevy Avalanche Performance Modifications which has a section on here with
threads on rebuilds in Ignition & Engine. 

 
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