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not having fun with this install

supermanotorious

Full Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2016
Messages
84
Location
Phoenix, AZ
for starters, I have been installing professionally for almost two decades, I've done celebrities and pro athletes rides

I got the q-bomb box for my AV and noticed right away the seats didn't latch, I read your posts about raising the seat roughly 1/2" and I made (eight) 1/2" spacers out of thick aluminum tube. I went to the trouble of lifting the seat and torquing it all back down. I put the box in and realize the box rests on the seat frame, not the floor. So all that work was for nothing.

Now I need to consider: a new box, modifying this box, or modifying the seat frame.  Ugh- it's never easy ha ha ha
 

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welp! I'm never one to say never

I made a few cuts to the box here and there, I removed the seat pan from the smaller rear seat and one of the plastic guards from the back of the front leg of the smaller rear seat, all rear seat latches are latching now

the mid gate is going to be a PITA though since the box interferes with the upper rear seat from folding down
 

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I have same box and it did not match up well. I had to use washers to space the seat up for the speakers to have room to move.

I also had to do major trim job on the box since it hit the seats in numerous locations. The passenger seat still doesn't latch but it is very close and didn't feel like cutting any more. I will be moving to a midgate box.

My seats stick up a little when I put them down for the midgate but I also mounted the amps to the backs of the seats. I plan to move the amplifiers to inside the saddle bags with custom built boxes. Since they have to handle being in the weather I will of course be sealing them up well. MAY require removal of the saddle bags to service but I may get around that another way.

Rodney

 
in hindsight I would've just glassed 2 independent boxes that obviously integrate with the AV with no other modifications, and maybe some day I will
 
If you ever decide to do that Audio Control has a 2 channel convertor that would run right off the BOSE amplifier and give your subwoofer amp the proper signal and turn it on and off.
Assuming you were going to use an additional amplifier.

I was going to do this until I noticed my BOSE amplifier has some bad channels on it.

Rodney
 
I appreciate the advice, I just ordered the Pioneer AVH-4200NEX since I love their flagship models but dont use their GPS, so I'll be running low input composite cables to the amp from the h/u

I just sold my Sierra so poop just got real for the Avalanche

looked at sub clearance in this POS box and just how far will the upper rear seats fold down for the midgate
 

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still not having fun with this install... the stereo and integration units should show up tomorrow so today I thought I'd install power wires for the amp

getting thru the firewall was pretty easy, there is a clean spot to the lower left of the steering column when looking in the cabin, running legit 1/0ga wire down the AV took a bit of massaging but its in there, now, it will be a PITA to get the power wire behind the rear seat frame but I've never lost

I mounted the fuse holder to the main fuse box, there is a lot of unused space behind that sucker
 

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redheadedrod said:
I plan to move the amplifiers to inside the saddle bags with custom built boxes. Since they have to handle being in the weather I will of course be sealing them up well. MAY require removal of the saddle bags to service but I may get around that another way.

Rodney

amplifiers need to breathe Rodney, like for reals, so if you enclose them I suggest a push/pull fan system, and that will draw moisture through the enclosure, amps belong inside, plain and simple
 
Yes I plan to build an air tunnel in the saddle bag that draws from the interior and discharges to the bed area. Fuses will either be accessible through the previous bed lamps or through the normal saddle bag opening.

With the fans in the bed I expect to not be able to hear them. For the PC in the console I will be setting up the HVAC tubing to blow over the PC to keep it cool as much as possible. This will hopefully be as easy as pulling the tubing from the console and let the hot air discharge out of the rear of the console.

Yes I said PC... Will be ditching the Radio and using a PC with a 10" screen in the console and another in the dash. MAY run another computer in the dash to do normal Navigation style stuff and keep the i5 PC for other stuff.

Rodney
 
I knew a guy with a PC in his old chevy truck, def not the route I'd go but to each their own

my NEX is arriving today and I think it's just the cat's pajamas
 
supermanotorious said:
I appreciate the advice, I just ordered the Pioneer AVH-4200NEX since I love their flagship models but dont use their GPS, so I'll be running low input composite cables to the amp from the h/u

That's the one I have.  (y)
 
As computer science student and budding cyber security professional I have plans... ;)

I have the hardware on hand to create a system that does everything a Nav head unit does... Plus can run fiber optic for sound to the amplifiers if I decide to. Audisons Bit One will accept fiber optic inputs so would be a really cool setup and no chance for noise entering the system.

With a SBC in the dash running Android and the i5 PC in the console with both networked together and various other modules installed in my vehicle... There is a reason why I mention my trucks name as "Knight Rider"...

Going to use it as a test bed for learning about autonomous vehicles.. (Taking an AI class now and will be doing more post graduate.)

So its more than just a simple NAV system in my truck.
 
install is 99% done, like it is done but I'll go back in and clean it up as time allows
 

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more pics, cant get the heavy power wire to be more discreet, it simply wont fit around the seat frame
 

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Couple of points...

If your truck is older than 2006 the Onstar module isn't compatible anymore so unless you upgraded the module to work with the digital network I wouldn't expect onstar to work.

When I ran the power cable in my truck I only did 8gauge wire but I passed it to one of the holes mounting the rear seat. There was a large cutout where one of the mount was present. I ran my positive under the carpet along the tunnel and it came out real nice under the seat there. I also mounted my Ground to that mount.

Looks good otherwise. Just don't care for the under seat box. Looks like you had to do less trimming than I did.
 
that power cable is true 1/0ga and supports a RF BD1000 and a 750 watt inverter, heavy is good, if it doesnt work you can always hit someone with it
 
Who told you that a 2006 onstar was not digital Rodney. ???
 
Um read that again...

If your truck is older than 2006 the Onstar module isn't compatible anymore so unless you upgraded the module to work with the digital network I wouldn't expect onstar to work.
 
just to be certain, I called OnStar from the AV this morning, checked my account status and made sure I had an active credit card on file

I wholly trust that Crutchfield would not sell me something that would not work in my vehicle
 
Assuming you are talking about the '03 on your signature then someone must have updated the Onstar module to the Newer version. GM switched to a different style Onstar in later years and eventually stopped supporting the older module requiring an updated module. If your truck is connecting to Onstar then someone had the module updated otherwise it physically could not connect to the Onstar service which is what I was getting at.

Rodney

 
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