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What are my options for trim color?

Piranha-z

Full Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
83
Location
MN
OK guys, I am finally blacking everything out on my 2010 Avalanche (I know, I'm like 5 years too late to the show). Everything on my LTZ was chrome. I changed out the door handles, grill, removed all badges, swapped my chrome nerf bars with black, but I have one last part and not sure how to handle it. The chrome trim on the doors. What are my options here? I actually like the side moldings, so removing them completely is not an option. Is my only real option painting them body color?

Thanks in advance.

(sorry, picture doesn't show other mods yet, just showing the chrome door trim)

412778222.jpg
 
Maybe a vinyl wrap/tape over trim?
 
Get Rustoleum Peel Coat. Stay away from Plastidip. You can spray it on like paint, and peel it off if you change your mind.



My front bowtie was peeling away under the plastic (like how an old mirror's chrome peels in the corners) so I picked up a can of Rustoleum Peel Coat at Autozone in flat black and was so happy with it! I blacked out the front and back bowties on my truck. Then blacked out the B pillar (between front and rear door windows). It didn't look good, so I just peeled it off.

My buddy liked it so much he had me do his Malibu's bowties and roof antenna in green, also using Rustoleum Peel Coat. Came out perfect.

A 3rd friend's Silverado's front bowtie was broken, so I got a cheap one on eBay and painted it with Plastidip for his Christmas present. Didn't turn out too good. Ended up peeling it off twice before it was an acceptable finish.


They've all held up great! Started this back in the fall and have had many car washes and they look good as the day I did it. And if you ever change your mind, it just peels off pretty cleanly.
 
Hmmm, I might look into that. Doesn't hurt to try if I can peel it off.

Thanks!
 
HellHoof said:
Get Rustoleum Peel Coat. Stay away from Plastidip. You can spray it on like paint, and peel it off if you change your mind.
A 3rd friend's Silverado's front bowtie was broken, so I got a cheap one on eBay and painted it with Plastidip for his Christmas present. Didn't turn out too good. Ended up peeling it off twice before it was an acceptable finish.
They've all held up great! Started this back in the fall and have had many car washes and they look good as the day I did it. And if you ever change your mind, it just peels off pretty cleanly.
That sucks you had a bad experience with PlastDip, but based on my personal experience, I'd lean toward if before using the Rustoleum, simply due to the amount of time and $$ Performix has into the product line. It is virtually their entire business at this point where the Rustoleum is just a tiny percentage of their profit. My fear would be that it might be inferior to the PlastiDip although I personally don't have any experience with it. I am probably the most experience member here with PDS though, having sprayed dozens of parts on numerous vehicles including spraying my entire Av twice and 3 other vehicles in their entirety, the first time I sprayed my Av was in 2014 (the product has come a long way since then too) and it was still in great condition when I peeled it last fall (dozens of members here have seen it and can attest to it's longevity if applied correctly.) I only peeled and re-sprayed it to change colors and spray it again. I believe the Rustoleum is only available in select colors, in your case it wouldn't matter as I assume you are going to use black, but PDS is available in dozens of colors, with different additives and different sheens/glosses.
Do be weary though if you use one brands base coat (color) do not use another brands top coat/glossifier as many have learned the hard way that the chemical makeup of the different manufacturers products are not compatible with each other .Whichever you might choose, (PlastiDip, Autodip, Rustoleum, Spectra, Duplicolor)stick exclusively to one product line.

The relatively low cost and ease of application and removal make all of these viable options for experiment.

On another note. I'm not completely sure, but are the side moldings on the LTZ not 2 pieces? Can just the chrome portion be removed? Both of my Avs are LTs so I've never looked at the LTZ trim in detail, but it appears that the chrome strip is an "add-on" to the LS and LT trim.

Everything you see below is PlastiDipped

 

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Calicak89 said:
On another note. I'm not completely sure, but are the side moldings on the LTZ not 2 pieces? Can just the chrome portion be removed? Both of my Avs are LTs so I've never looked at the LTZ trim in detail, but it appears that the chrome strip is an "add-on" to the LS and LT trim.

Everything you see below is PlastiDipped

Those look amazingly good!! As far as the moldings, it appears that the chrome is a separate piece but I'm not 100% sure. It also looks as if it could be removed, the molding that would be left would have a sharp edge at the top.

Do they make a gloss black or would I have to clear it? I need to start researching this more :)

Thanks for the detailed response also!
 
Unless you go with a with a true metallic or luxury metal color, all colors are matte. You can achieve gloss/sheen with pearl additives, but I wouldn't suggest it for your first go round, especially if you are going the rattle can route. They can be tough to get even coverage with from an aerosol can. All other levels of gloss are achieved through DYC top coat and their are a multitude of options. the easiest however would be to use a preloaded aerosol can of satinizer or glossifier over your initial color application. For your side moldings I would suggest black or black sapphire
https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/plasti-dip-colors/products/black-sapphire
https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/plasti-dip-colors/products/plasti-dip-black
and then adding 1-3 coats of glossifier to achieve your desired sheen.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/glossifier
They guys at Peformix are very knowledgeable and super helpful. you can call them direct at 1-855-847-5825 and they'll walk you through haw to achieve the best results for your application. I probably spend 90 minutes on the phone with them going over procedural details with them before I did my first full vehicle spray. Not because I thought I really needed to as the product is fairly self explanatory, but I was using over $400 in material and didn't want to screw it up. Everything is in the prep work. people love to blame the product for being crappy, weather it be PlastiDip, or any of the other elastomeric sprays out there, but it's usually a lock of proper preparation that leads to poor adhesion/performance.
 
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