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Knight Rider sound system upgrade

redheadedrod

SM 2017
PM 2015
Full Member
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
3,187
Location
Muskegon, MI
So I decided to make a posting for my system sound upgrade...

I will post more information as I build this... Current setup..

Stock head unit
I3 based PC with HD Radio is connected to Aux input on Radio (Using PAC Dual Auxilary adapter)
Note that eventually the stock radio will be pulled and system will run fully off PC.

Front Stage is running with Memphis separates I bought from buddies that owned a shop that they closed up due to online shops. They were still making considerable money but decided after 25 years of Mobile Audio they wanted to do something else. Most of their recent calls were to install equipment bought online.

My Rear speakers are Kicker full range (Tweeter integrated)

The rear speakers were installed in place of the disintegrated rear speakers last year. Have them turned way down since they are intended to be rear fill.

The front stage is run with an Audio Art 6 channel amplifier. 2 x 75, 4 x 50. I bridged the 4x50 and making 2 x 100. I am running the 2x100 to the front speakers and the 2x75 to the rear speakers.

My current subs will be pulled. I have two HART 10" subs under the rear seat. Only one is hooked up because the other is either mounted wrong or blown. They fit into the box but need a different home. I will be mounting the working 10" into my CTS and replacing these with 3 12" Alpine 12w4's.

Currently powering the rear sub from a q-audio 2x250 amplifier. Final product will have 3 Audio Art MS 100 amplifiers. These amplifiers are 2x50 but when bridged go to 1 x 200. Running at 13.8volts they put out almost 400 watts. These AA amplifiers were unregulated pro-competition cheater amps when they were new.

So currently I have a box built and ready to integrate into the midgate. I went with a minimal box of 1cuft per speaker. I plan to use FiberFill to help them out a little since I essentially made the box that Alpine said they work best in.

My Table saw isn't the best and I used a Dremel with the circle attachment to do the speaker holes. I have a spacer plate that was freehand. Seriously not the quality I would really like but once installed will be impossible to see.  I used ACX plywood because I didn't want to deal with MDF for this project. Wanted it to be durable since it will be in the bed of the truck. Used Liquid Nails and Drywall screws to assemble the box. Currently have all of the sides of the box assembled other than the back and the spacer piece. Will go over the internal joints with a bead of either the Liquid Nails or silicon to insure there is no leakage. I plan to blend this into the mid gate, seal to the mid gate with paintable caulk, paint to weather proof then bedline to protect further. As designed the Midgate will still operate as originally intended. 

Here are pictures of the box as they are right now. The rear piece has not been installed yet. This box will be bolted to the midgate. Once the box is bolted into place the rear cover will be added. All seams will be sealed again as mentioned either with liquid nails or silicon. The fiberfill bats will be glued to the side walls also prior to installation.

I did use 3/4" plywood for this build. The sanded side is facing outward. The internals of the box I basically built 3 seperate slightly bigger than 1.09 cuft boxes. Nothing fancy. To strengthen the interior there are actually two plywood spacers between each speaker so instead of one 3/4" board between each speaker there are two with each glued to each other as well. So the box SHOULD not flex... No other interior bracing was added since these boxes are so small individually.

I used 3 subs because that is what I bought on the whim of the moment. And without doing something different these are the max that would fit and still keep midgate functional. You can see from these pictures there is not much room at the edges.

Alpine suggests a box 14.5x.14.5x12.5  which ends up being 13" x 13" x 11" internal volume. I did end up going a little deeper to 12" because I was contemplating making the rear panel removable and installing the speakers from the rear. I decided that I can make them removable from the front so abandoned the idea of making rear accessible.

 

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Here is a picture of a "Naked" midgate. The window hold down locks have been removed and the rest just pulls apart for the most part.

The material is about 1/4 inch plastic that looks a lot like fiberglass when cut. There are two specific "walls" with air space between them.
On the interior the areas you see indented are glued to the outside with an apparent epoxy glue which is NOT coming apart.

In the pictures attached you can see the outside portion of the gate (the section with the treads). I have marked an image from the spacer piece. The circle pieces will be cut all the way through with exceptions noted below. Once the circle pieces have been cut the box portion will be cut out of just the outside section. Where there is any of the indented sections I will just cut the indented section out.

On the inside section you can see the indented sections at the top and the window support tabs on the bottom.  The majority of material will be maintained in the top where possible although not sure yet how that will work out. Not concerned with strength since the wood box will take over the strength. The bottom window support tabs will be trimmed around to maintain as much strength as possible. If I am able to remove the speakers and keep the tabs in place they will remain. At worst I may make additional removable metal bracing and potentially make them either removable or hinged to allow the speakers to come out the front. We shall see how this progresses...

Edited:
Looking at the pictures it IS possible I MAY just cut out the whole square piece in the top section since it looks like I will be removing most of the upper material anyhow.  (Note the "Inside" picture is upside down...). I may find the same option for the bottom section too. Installing an additional 1/2" spacer to give the speaker a little more room...  The 3/4" spacer still leaves a little of the speaker above the spacer. These alpine surround rings are about an inch tall. I am assuming the speaker won't go beyond since its Linear movement is only 10mm or .39 inches.

Rodney
 

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So I cut out the Midgate... Here are a couple pictures showing how it looks. The two pieces were not as badly glued together as I had feared.

The additional stuff cut out was where the two halves were glued together. Mostly by the window holders on the bottom and a couple places on the top. This piece is still very strong and the window holders don't move. This is like 1/4" of fiberglass or some other plastic and very strong...

So what the pictures show is the front side has the trim piece removed and the clips. You can see I have the holes for the 12" subs cut out. I left the window holders in place as they are needed for keeping the window in place when stored. They will be fully functional. They are very strong even with this much cut off.

The back side shows where the box will sit as it is integrated into the midgate.  I will be bolting the box into place into the midgate then sealing it all up.

At the moment I am able to easily put the 12" subs into the box with it assembled even with the window mounts in place. It is a tight fit but does work into there.

There is a 3/4" piece of plywood as a spacer and I ended up adding an additional 1/2" piece as another spacer. So there is 1 1/4" of space between the front of the box where the speakers are mounted and the actual midgate its self. This extra half inch was about what I cut out of the midgate. Should hopefully still leave the midgate fully functional.

I glued the 1/2" Piece in place today. I will be gluing the 3/4" spacer over the top of that and sealing up all of the interior intersections tomorrow. I haven't put the back piece on yet as I will be bolting the box to the midgate before I do that. Next step will be to take care of any issues with the box.. This means smoothing out the edges and filling in any areas needing it before sealing the exterior. I plan to use something to water proof the box and seal the box to the midgate then I will be spraying bedliner onto the box to protect it a little better.

Shouldn't be long now before the 12's are mounted in place.. Will take a little longer to get the trim piece finished and remounted. I plan to remove the stock carpet and cutting out the speaker holes behind it. I will be putting some sort of metal screen on the inside of the trim piece to protect the speakers and give the new material something to sit on. I will be replacing the carpeting with some sort of sonically transparent material.

I will also be cutting out portions of the bottom and placing screen in place so that the speakers will be able to fire through there as well. It should look "reasonably" stock when I am finished with it.

Yes this means the trim piece will have to be removed if I ever have to service the speakers. But also makes it a bit harder to steal the speakers too... More likely to damage the speakers than remove them from the box. Although the box IS held in place with just four bolts...
 

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So currently working on the box... I have picked up some Bondo and have been coating the outside, top, bottom and sides. Won't be doing the front since it will be in the truck. I will be painting the inside and front with some black duplicolor "primer and paint".

Using 5 cans of bondo.. The intent is to harden the outside and make it more durable while insuring it is even and water proof.

Next step will be to sand the box as is and install within the midgate. I have bolts to connect to the midgate plastic still in place then will use silicone based sealant at the seam of the box and the midgate. I have some paintable stuff I plan to use.

Once assembled and sealed I will give it one coat of black paint just to cover the bondo then will be using bed liner to cover the whole thing. I have 3 cans of duplicolor "Truck armour" in black.

Planning on passing the wiring out through the front of the box and will line up with the window holders.

I will be mounting this box before working on the front trim plate.

I have already cut out the areas where the speakers line up on the front trim plate and have started removing the carpeting. I will see how well it turns out with new carpeting and go from there.

Looking for thick sonically transparent carpeting to replace the carpeting in place now. I will be installing some mesh over where the speakers go now. Thinking about putting bed liner on the mesh so that it is less likely to mar up the glass when installed too.

 
Bondo currently covering box...

I need to sand down the bondo now.. Since I will be painting then bedlining this stuff I am not worried about getting it REAL smooth.. So using 60 grit sand paper on it.

Should have the sanding done and will paint the box as is both inside and out with self priming black. Not too worried about coverage where the bed liner will be going.

After sanding and painting I plan to glue some fiberfill bats to the inside of the box to help with standing waves then install the box into the midgate. I have some 3/8 bolts I plan to use to hold it into place then as I mentioned I have some paintable silicon caulk I will use to seal the box to the midgate. Once this is in place I can install the back board, bondo, sand, paint it... Will also seal then paint from the inside and some fiberfill bats on it as well.. Will then bedline the box and last step will be to install the speakers.

Since my current 10" sub that is about 25 years old seems to be on its last legs it can't get done soon enough. I will install this box without the front trim piece in place initially while I work on it. I may make the amplifier pieces before finishing the trim piece as well since I am more interested in getting the vehicle operational and the PC installed then making it all pretty up front.

Will post pictures of where I am currently with it...

Should sound nice... The bondo should also work as a deadening media for the box as well as weather sealant and strengthening against damage.
 
Will try to post some pictures soon. Just glued the back onto the box.. I realized I am short a couple things so have to pick them up probably tomorrow.

Also forgot about the wiring until today... Doh! Luckily I got some wiring and drilled the access holes before I mounted the box. Everything is moving along slowly but well. I sealed the box to the midgate as well as bolting the two together. It is very solid now and won't leak.

Next step is to cut off any excess glue once it dries and put a bead of sealant inside the box for the rear. Finish up the sanding and bondo of the box then paint the rear panel and get it ready for bedliner...

Last step will be trimming the window "stands" so the speakers can get mounted properly before I mount it.

I will wait to do the front trim piece until I get the amp racks done in the saddle bags.

The bed liner will likely not be a solid color but I am ok with that. Will be deep inside the bed anyhow and seldom seen but should be pretty robust against damage. Using 12 gauge wire for the speakers.

Rodney
 
Thanks for the props...

I apparently made the back about 1/8" too wide so I had to trim that off tonight, then I removed all of the extra glue and sanded down the outside of the box where I am putting the bondo. Placed first layer of bondo.. I have to get another can to finish.

I will be notching the arms that hold the window when in storage so I can access all of the bolts on my speakers before I finish painting and installing the last wire into the box. Those arms are still extremely strong. I was picking up the box by holding the arms while lifting the box. Since the force was perpendicular to the arms it is obvious that they will handle storage of the window just fine. The midgate/box is about half the weight of a normal midgate with a full 4x8 sheet of plywood into the box.

Hopefully will be shooting the box with bed liner before the end of the day saturday and will be installing into my truck on Sunday. I will likely wait for a little while before actually installing the speakers to insure the box is totally dry.

Before installing the speakers I will also be installing the fiberfill batting I have by gluing it to the walls. I was going to do it before enclosing the box but I have plenty of room from the speaker holes and this way I can insure the paint is totally dry before gluing them.

Rodney
 
Got the box into the truck... Can't drop the midgate with the window in place now.. The box is a little longer than originally intended and it hits on the bar. I have figured out though if I DO want to drop it and leave the window in place I just remove the window, Drop the midgate a little, press down the button for the window and remove the bar... Drop the midgate to normal low position and put the bar back in place. Then I can put the window back in place.

A little bit of a pain but really only about an extra minute to do. Have to do the same in reverse to put it back. If I take the window out and just drop the mid gate it works fine as expected.

Due to missing screws on my amplifier I was only able to hook up 1 of the 12's. I have to say these low end Alpine speakers are WAY louder than my old 10's. Think they are far boomier and not as accurate as the old 10's. I guess when you compare 20 year old $500 subs against brand new $100 subs you should notice a downgrade. Oh well...

With just 1 12" running right now it is hard to look out of the rear view mirror at 250 watts.  Two should be a bit louder... The current amplifier in my truck is 250watts x 2. I need to get started on the boxes that will be installed within the saddle bags... I will be installing 3 100MS amplifiers. They will be putting out over 300 watts at full power. My guess is that my truck will be heard from a little ways away...

Currently the front speakers are Memphis Separates running off 100 watts.

The rear speakers are Kicker composite speakers running off 70 watts.

The non-subwoofer amplifer is an Audio Art 340XE. This amplifier is normally 2 x 100, 4x35 watts. If I bridge the channels they will do double the wattage. So I bridged the 4x35 into 2x70.  This wattage should go decent with the 3 subs. I know when the gains are all the way up man are the kicker and memphis speakers loud. I do need some serious balancing of the system now. I will use the cross overs in the 340Xe for the rear channels and subs. The rear channel will run off the mid section with the high cross over point run at probably 5k and the low end will have to play with. Probably in the 70hz range but will go to the subs. I will leave the high range alone. The rear channels shouldn't have the highs since it will pull the sound stage away from the front. This will let me adjust my frequencies for the subs and the rear channels better. The front channels I will run full range and let the Memphis passive crossovers handle that job.

I also have an Audio Control Bass control unit I will likely make use of to control the base I have. Have not used one before and not sure if they are even made anymore. I have one new in the box I bought over a decade ago. The nice thing having 3 12" subs running around 1000 watts total is being able to turn them way down... I will also have a cutout switch that will let me only run 1 sub if necessary. This will also allow me to cut out 2 subs when the window is in place too so I don't destroy the window.

I will post pictures a little later of the current setup. I can't get to the pictures on my phone at the moment.

Definetly can get loud enough now that I can't hear myself sing... I will likely be turning down the gains a little to prevent hearing damage..

Also need to run a new ground to the battery and upsize the wiring in preparation for the new amplifiers. 
Will likely make the boxes for the amplifiers but wait to install until I get the new wiring. I will likely run 2 gauge back to the sub amplifiers and probably 8 gauge to the non-sub amplifier. (Right now have a 4 gauge wire run all the way back to a block and 8 gauge wires going less than 2 feet to both amplifiers. Need bigger wire for more power..)

Will also be looking to get a 250 amp alternator too.. Maybe add it as a second one and leave the factory amplifier in place. eventually have 2 x 250 amp alternators. Not sure yet... Or may just replace what I have with a 250 amp alternator and call it good for now. Still debating.

Rodney
 
Couple questions....

So the box tips up and in to the cabin when the midgate goes down?  Is that why it is hitting the glass?  Pics would help.

I'm also a bit lost on your amplifiers.  So you are running three amplifiers - one to each subwoofer?  Does the box have unique cavities or one common airspace?  In general I like to run the same size speakers off the same amp for matching reasons.  I think this will work though since they are the identical model of amplifier. 

As for the high range speakers, if you do bridge them, you also double your noise levels.  I generally like to keep front stage speakers straight at 4 ohm, but that is just me.  35 clean watts is pretty decent for a smaller high range speaker.

I did a 3 12" subwoofer setup in my Trans Am many years ago with about 900 watts.  That thing hit 146bd.  It was insane.  I still have it, but that stereo is OOOLLLLDDD now.
 
Currently have a 2 x 250 watt amplifier hooked up. But of course this will only power two of the three speakers.

The box is part of the midgate.. So yea it tips up as it goes down. When I originally planned the box it would have been fine but I added an inch to the box length and another 1/2 inch to the front of the box for spacing in front of the speakers. With the longer box I COULD cut a triangle out of the rear but as little as I drop the midgate I am not going to worry about it.

Each speaker has its own compartment. So running 1, 2 or 3 speakers will be easy to do.

And yes each speaker will have its own amplifier. I will make sure I have the gains adjusted to the same value on each one. The amplifers are old school pro competition amplifiers and as such should sound great.

The front stage is loud using the 100 x 2 channels for them. And the rear speakers are running off 70 watts so I really don't hear them with the fronts. One might say a little louder than needed but then again it means I can tune down the power a little if necessary...

I do have alternator hum at the moment but going to hopefully take care of it when I run new power cables to the secondary battery. Will run a ground directly to it too at that time.

I pulled 130 db with the two 10's that I HAD in the truck.. Those are 20 years old and one was buzzing when I powered it up and the other seems to delay working so both are either shot or close to it...  They are very quick subs.. These Alpine units seem way boomy in comparison.  Will likely have to replace them with better speakers down the road but not a problem.

I am attaching pictures of the installed setup. The rear view is pretty much done... The front doesn't have the old trim piece back on it yet. You can see my amplifiers mounted temporarily to the back of the seats. The white one is the higher frequencies and will be moved to the saddle bags. The gold colored one is the 2x250 amp that will be yanked and replaced with 3 AudioArt 100MS amplifiers in a bridged configuration. These amplifiers were designed as competition amplifiers and bridged don't have any measurable distortion or additional noise... The AudioArt 340.6XE is a lower grade amplifier so the bridging likely does add in a little noise but for rear channels I am not real concerned since the 100 watts in the front speakers pretty well drowns it out.  I could have left the rear speakers running off 35 watts apiece but thats no fun... ;)   This 6 channel amplifier is designed to run a small system all off one amplifier using the 2x100 channels to run the subs and the 4x35 to run the other speakers.  

I can tell right now I need to add some EQ capability to this system. The factory radio EQ setup sucks... But then again when I move to the PC I will be ditching the factory radio so not sure I want to do anything permanent. I do have a Precision Power 2 channel EQ that I could use but then I loose the rear channel fade which I don't really use anyhow.

 

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I have to say... OMG, is this loud. Probably too loud...

Originally the front speaker gains were turned down due to the factory bose speakers being over driven. With the Memphis speakers they were too low.  When I installed the Subs I put the gains at 100% and now its too loud. I am only running the stereo at 1/3rd volume and max at 1/2 Currently staying away from playing loud at all. I MAY reduce the gains to get the sound into a more reasonable range so I don't permanently damage my hearing.

I will be parking my truck for the winter soon so I probably won't do much with the sound system until spring. I MAY finish wiring up the console so I can drop it back in place.
 
Recently pulled out the truck from winter storage and rewired the amplifiers to support the new subwoofers...  Just received my 1/0 wiring which should be more than enough to support the power requirements. I will be wiring in this 1/0 wiring in the next few days.

The Power distribution I bought is pretty neat, has 4 fused +12 volt and 4 ground connections and will support 1/0 in and up to 4gauge out. Also shows voltage.
Had an issue with one of the +12 volt leads though so need to take it apart and see if I can recover it without breaking it off. Likely will end up requiring drilling out the old screw and installing a new one that won't be as pretty.

So currently have Memphis 2 ways up front off 120 watts per speaker. They get VERY loud for a $200 retail speaker but not anything special for sound.
Kicker speakers in rear doors running off 70 watts. Sound OK.
3 Alpine "Bass Line" 12 inch speakers. These each are running off Audio Art 100MS amplifiers. These 1990's competition grade amplifiers were rated 2x50 but bridged and at "running" voltage on a 4 ohm subwoofer are almost 400 watts per speaker. (These were "cheater" amps due to their design and unregulated power supplies)

I am currently using a simple line convertor from my factory head unit. This PAC unit does have some alternator whine but not real concerned with it at this time since I will be running directly from the Optic output from the computer once I remove the radio.
The Audio Art amplifier I am using for the non-subs is normally a 6 channel amplifier with 4x35 and 2x120. I bridged the 35 watt channels to 70 for the back speakers. This amplifier also has a 3 way crossover which I am taking advantage of. I am using the low range to control the Subwoofers and the Midrange is going to the rear door speakers with the cutoff for the highs as high as it will go. This allows MOST of the full range to the rear speakers without pulling the sound stage away from the front too bad.

I still have some tweaking to do with this setup and need to finish the subwoofer box. But this system is very loud. I suspect the subs will run a lot better once I have the 1/0 wire run.

Next step will be installing the computer and console. Once that is done I will begin reverse engineering the radio so I can mimic it using the PC. I likely will grab a steering column with steering wheel controls so I can get those codes too. Should allow me to use the Steering wheel controls and the XM radio directly with the computer. Along with the HD radio it already has.

By end of next summer this truck should be well on its way to fully integrated. Will be totally computer run with additional modules to allow other things. The truck will have its own internet connection and will be fully accessible from my phone or computer. Well on its way to become a "Kitt 2020"

Rodney
 
Due to a short in the system and undersized power wires I am upgrading the supply wiring to 1/0 gauge wiring. Also adding a negative passthrough stud to my truck so I can connect directly to the battery.

I personally like using pass through studs as opposed to grommets for a couple different reasons.

#1 they are much easier to seal up against water intrusion.

#2 they can be used as a supply point for multiple power lines taking into account the size of the wiring used. (Ie if running 2 1/0 gauge wires from it you must use a gauge of wire feeding it sufficient to cover those 2 1/0 gauge wires. I will be running 1 1/0 gauge wire to the rear and an 8 gauge wire to the computer so a 1/0 gauge wire from battery to firewall stud and a similar 1/0 gauge wire to the amplifiers should be more than sufficient to power my system as configured.)

 
So good news bad news... I was having an issue with cutting out and with alternator whine.

Thought my amps were kicking off due to under powered wire... Replaced with 1/0 wire running directly from the secondary battery. I apparently had only run 8 gauge wire back to the amplifiers when I was only running like 400 watts. Now that I am running somewhere around 1600 watts I figured I had it licked.

Also installed my Audio Control 8 channel LOC. Alternator whine gone, was still dropping out every so often... Noticed the fuse panel had a loose fuse clip. Tightened up the clips and all better.

Man when your running 1/0 gauge wire it becomes tough to run it under carpet and such...

I used a pass through stud to make the transition from engine compartment to passenger compartment.
It appears now that I got the sound system all running well that my Alternator is not keeping up. I expected this but not so soon.

I am watching 13.5 volts on and off with the alternator but no flickering of lights or anything so I am guessing my old tired alternator is just not putting out enough power.

Ordering a 250 amp alternator originally suggested by MS03.    Not sure I need two alternators since the extra 110 amps over the stock 140 should give me another 1300+ watt capacity.

If I add additional lighting I will probably consider adding a second alternator.
 
So update... New alternator is in... But my voltage is still low... Considering getting a dual alternator bracket and just running both the new and original alternator and ditching the solenoid.

Weird thing is at the alternator I am reading 14.5 volts. At either battery I am seeing 13.8. 4 gauge wiring going to secondary battery from main tie in. Factory wiring still in place for original battery.

Good news is that the volt meter at the rear is also reading 13.8. I have a block that accepts both the positive and negative 1/0 leads, splits out 4 negatives to up to 4 x 4 gauge wires and up to 4 AGU fused 4 x 4 gauge wires. This also has a volt meter in it as well. This volt meter shows the exact same voltage as the battery does.

Just ordered some more 1/0 gauge welding wire to replace all of the charging and supply wiring. Will likely run the 1/0 directly from the alternator for both positive and negative. (Negative will mount to a case hole or to the mounting bolt. Will have to see how it goes.)  I will upgrade what appears to be 8 gauge wire to the main panel to 4 gauge wire. Hopefully since I am seeing NO voltage drop through the 20' of 1/0 cables I have running directly from the battery I will see the same with charging. I will be installing 200 amp circuit breakers at the battery for any 1/0 gauge wiring to protect from a fire. 200 amp should be sufficient to protect the wire. Even though the alternator can do 250. If it becomes an issue I will upgrade to higher amperage breakers. Certainly 1/0 gauge welding wire can carry much more than 200 amps... 

Here is the wiring I am using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016HFD788/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The alternator:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3RGBEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using these to chop the bottom end off my front speakers (Probably could have gone with 80hz highpass):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N41KG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0006N41KG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1713835751726239774&pf_rd_r=EGGAYTJK48565HXNNRV1&pd_rd_wg=590n5&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=FVg3L&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=c55114d8-62e8-11e8-95f4-f3d82cd14d8a&smid=A21IULW0FD6NPA

Using this circuit breaker for the 1/0 wiring:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DX64FJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Distribution block. Will have two, one on each side. Hope to have accessible through what is currently the cargo light area since I have LED strips on mine. Oh and since it does show volts I can then also see the voltage. It also has LED's under the fuses to let you know if one is blown.
https://www.amazon.com/Fused-Distribution-Blocks-Mobile-Offroad/dp/B01GQI27FA/ref=sr_1_21?srs=15848231011&ie=UTF8&qid=1527561532&sr=8-21&dpID=41oJa%252BaVckL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Cool stuff...

Currently using channel 1 on the Audio Control unit for the main signal and channel 4 for the rear and sub woofers. Channel 4 has a remote level controller so I can dial my subs up and down. It also currently dials the rear speakers up and down but is not an issue since rear speakers are more for "fill" anyhow. I MAY decide to go a different route in the future but this works for now. I could go with FMOD's on the subs too and just use the crossover for the rear speakers ignoring the high and low outputs thus allowing the level control to only control the subs. Sometimes 3 12" subs running full out is just too much... ;) And other times not running them high enough is just wrong..

Rodney
Also getting a 5 amp drain from the fuse panel that runs the front seats and such. Will be interesting to see what that is... With my luck will be the seat heaters or something. 
 
So I want to get some input on possible upgrades to my system... 

To outline my current system...

Factory Radio (Will be replacing with PC in the near future but want to pull the datastream for the XM radio and possibly steering wheel controls so I can integrate them into my PC setup.)

Audio Control LC8 to convert the high level outputs from the head unit to usable outputs. (Overkill but I bought this unit for my car which has 8 channels... Using in truck until I get the PC stuff sorted out and pull the radio.)

Front Stage is a set of Memphis Separates with 6" in door and tweeters in A-Pillars. Using included passive crossover and a 100hz highpass FMOD to the input of the amplifier to cut out the lows.

Back doors have Kicker 5.25" speakers running only from the "midrange" of my 3 way crossover with the top end crossed over somewhere around 1k. (Using only for fill so I don't want too high of frequencies to pull the stage back. So yes the high range is not used in this configuration.)

3 Alpine Baseline subs running off the low range of the 3 way crossover.

Currently using a 6 channel Audio Art amplifier to run all of the speakers that are not subs...  This includes a 3 way crossover with a bass boost that allows for a center frequency and amount of boost. It also provides 2x120 and 4x35 watts of amplification.  My current configuration I feed the 2x120 to the front speakers adjusted to not over drive the speakers, the 4x35 is bridged into 2x75 and running the rear channels.  The crossover as mentioned above has the low range going to the subs, the mid range going to the rear speakers and the high range is not connected.

The subs are each run off of its own Audio Art 100MS amplifier. These amplifiers were rated for 2x50 but were cheater competition amplifiers. When bridged they were rated for 200 watts but were unregulated so when running at normal 13.5-14 volts they put out a near 400 watt measured output. They also have a bass boost knob that allows you to set the middle of the boosted frequency and the amount of boost. All of my boosts are set neutral on this and the cross over.

I have run 1/0 gauge wiring directly from the battery to the fuse panels and then 8 gauge to each amplifier.

I have no actual alternator whine but I do pick up noise. I believe the noise is due to the configuration of the wiring since I just tapped into the factory wiring in the console harness and passed them through to the LC8. I twisted my own wiring but I probably should have used some high quality shielded twisted pair and ran them a different route to get rid of the noise. When the PC is fully installed I will likely be using the Optic output from the PC to an audison Bitone and not worry about noise.

So my issue is that while the alpine subs hit pretty well and sound pretty good the rest of the sound frequencies have no punch to them. They can get somewhat loud but just don't seem to balance out with the subs. I use the control knob on the LC8 to control the bass levels.

I am considering looking at different speakers up front and dumping the Memphis speakers. But not sure what type of setup I want to go with. I want something that sounds more realistic up front. I was thinking maybe to keep up with the bass speakers I need to go with 2 sets of 3 way speakers up front. Two pair of tweeters in the A-Pillar, 2 sets of 4" speakers under the current BOSE grill and possibly 2 6" or bigger speakers built into the current map pocket area built to look somewhat factory.  (Close off the MAP pockets to make a solid area and then use some sonically transparent material over expanded metal in place of the current carpet. )

So if I keep the amplifers the same I have the 3 way crossover. In this suggested new 4 way configuration I would use the 3 way crossover. The low end would go to the subs, the high end would go to a passive crossover that would be feeding the tweeters and 4" speakers, and the midrange would go to my woofers. I would probably pick up another pair of FMODs to chop off the highs and use those with the current FMODs that are 100hz HP filters now for the rear door "fill" speakers. or just let them run full range with the 100hz HP FMODs I have now and not worry about it since they are only running off 35 watts.

I do also have a 4 way crossover available which would allow me to crossover all of the speakers actively and not use any passive crossovers. I would use the low for the subs, the woofer output for the woofers, the midrange output for the 4" and the high end for the tweeters. I wouldn't have enough channels to run the rear channels in this configuration. I do have an additional 3 100MS amplifers I could make use of but the 2x50 rated is ~2x75  when vehicle is running. I could use the 4 way crossover and an additional 100MS to run the rear channels.

Another note to make is the 6 channel audio art amplifier I have was not a competition amplifier and doesn't boost the power output as much when the vehicle is running.
(I think its a 340.e?)


Hopefully this all made sense?

 
Honestly, I think you can do a lot more with a lot less.
My Sound Quality setup will consist of only 5 drivers.

If you don't mind the suggestions, I will be glad to help out.
 
I would be interested in what you have to say. Not sure how more minimal It can really be though... Unless you mean cutting out subs but not really willing to do that.. I can turn them down now but mostly just don't like how the front stage sounds.

Rodney
 
Most PC setups I've seen in the past were "Stand alone" with all necessary RCA outputs needed for your application.
With that being said, I'm curious to know what PC setup you have ???

Sorry to say, most people that I've known in the past have all installed primary head units in their setups and run the PC unit as a source unit.
Way too much sugar for a dime so to speak is what I've been told ... I'm running the Kenwood dnx9980hd and love it !!!

From the way I read your post, I'm thing you're more of an Audiophile (Like Me) and not necessarily a bass head (but likes a little thump every now and again) ...
So I'm going to suggest not to go with the multiple component idea and optimize what you have now. Again, just a suggestion.

Also, if You are looking for any type of stage and Image (Sound Quality), You will never find it with midranges behind the listeners ear. Creates phasing issues ...
Just saying.
Set your dash tweeters full range down to 3000 htz, and your midbass drivers full range down to 70 htz. Kill your rear doors. Set your EQ flat and work on time alignment.
I'm almost positive you will see an improvement ... hope this helps a little.

Notice I didn't say anything about processors ??? I can't stand to use them. Just Saying

 
You are pretty much right on...

When I say PC I mean Personal Computer. I have a small I3 based motherboard I will be installing in the truck. I have it all setup, just has to be wired together and installed. I recently moved so it hasn't been high on the priority list. I have a 10" touch screen in the front of the console. I only plan to keep the factory head unit in place until I can verify the PC is working. I have an HD radio with adapter that will feed right into the PC and will be able to connect to the internet via Cellular. Will be running an Android emulator such as Memu to gain stuff like Waze since the machine will be running WIN 10. 

I may also try to decode the main radio to XM signals as well as steering wheel controls but otherwise the radio's days are numbered.

The head unit will be replaced with a 7" touch screen which will be the second screen on the PC. I plan to set it up so Memu runs full screen all the time on the 7" screen and my front end will be running on the 10" screen. I may decide to go with a bigger screen if I can relocate the HVAC controls. To relocate the HVAC controls I will be looking at making an interface for a RPi or Arduino and install with a touch screen in the over head console.

This PC has a fiber output as well as standard mini plugs. I am considering running the Fiber to an Audison Bit one which also has a fiber input. The Audison units can do just about everything from what I have read, crossovers, time alignment, Eq... Not cheap units but for what they do they might be worth it.

The rear speakers don't really accomplish much the way they are currently and would likely be fine to remove from the system.

 
So I will be doing some major upgrades to my Stereo system and hopefully will have time to finish mounting the PC.

Current system has some cheap kickers in the back doors... (Not a concern since they are turned way down and almost non existant anyhow. Could just disconnect them altogether.)

The Memphis speakers in the front doors are blown already. Guess they can't handle the 120 watts driving them even if it was turned way down..
These will be replaced with Diamond Audio Hex drivers. I just found some on clearance. They will handle 150 watts of continuous sound so as long as I don't distort them they should do well and match up better with the subs...

I still have to finish the front plate on my subs but that should be somewhat easy to do. Just have to find the time to pull off the cover, put on some mesh on the back then install new sonically transparent material.

Also will be moving the amplifiers to the storage compartments of the truck. Should be an interesting project. Will be working on this this winter.
Needs to be water tight and accessible. I will be making it so I can access them by pulling off the plastic cover on the inside..

My lower powered amplifier and processor will go on one side and the 3 sub amplifiers will go on the other. I plan to also pull ventilation from the cab area and vent to the bed. With plans for temp monitors in the amplifier areas.

Should be an interesting project. The amplifiers will be totally hidden and inaccessible without pulling off panels. As will the subs. From the interior nothing will be visable or look out of place..

Once I have the bed done I will work on getting the PC finished up and mounted.

Rodney
 
I will have to go back through and do some updates to this but I am working on some stuff on my truck now.

I did end up getting some Diamond Audio Hex drivers for my truck. They are in and wow do they make the truck sound different.
VERY loud running at the 125 watts I am running them at each.

Subs are really loud as well..  I so need to get back to this system but my other projects are higher priority at the moment.

 
Quick Update, I decided to update my factory head unit finally. Bought an amazon 10" screen.. Nightmare that was. doesn't work and with the 10" screen I kept tapping it when I shift gears and hitting the scan... Ugh...

So I am pulling all the seats back out, pulling the radio out and replacing with what appears to be a MUCH nicer Android head unit with only an 8" screen. I pulled the back seat out as I may need to run new wiring. Something isn't working and unless the amp I am using is toast, there must be a bad wire or two when I tried to run them before. So I will test everything out and see what happens. This new 8" radio seems to do more than the 10" screen would. Will try to take pictures of it when it is up and running. The 12" alpine subs STILL pound though... Won't likely have the sound system in the truck when its on its "break" for about 6 months getting the drivetrain upgraded.
 
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