So I decided to make a posting for my system sound upgrade...
I will post more information as I build this... Current setup..
Stock head unit
I3 based PC with HD Radio is connected to Aux input on Radio (Using PAC Dual Auxilary adapter)
Note that eventually the stock radio will be pulled and system will run fully off PC.
Front Stage is running with Memphis separates I bought from buddies that owned a shop that they closed up due to online shops. They were still making considerable money but decided after 25 years of Mobile Audio they wanted to do something else. Most of their recent calls were to install equipment bought online.
My Rear speakers are Kicker full range (Tweeter integrated)
The rear speakers were installed in place of the disintegrated rear speakers last year. Have them turned way down since they are intended to be rear fill.
The front stage is run with an Audio Art 6 channel amplifier. 2 x 75, 4 x 50. I bridged the 4x50 and making 2 x 100. I am running the 2x100 to the front speakers and the 2x75 to the rear speakers.
My current subs will be pulled. I have two HART 10" subs under the rear seat. Only one is hooked up because the other is either mounted wrong or blown. They fit into the box but need a different home. I will be mounting the working 10" into my CTS and replacing these with 3 12" Alpine 12w4's.
Currently powering the rear sub from a q-audio 2x250 amplifier. Final product will have 3 Audio Art MS 100 amplifiers. These amplifiers are 2x50 but when bridged go to 1 x 200. Running at 13.8volts they put out almost 400 watts. These AA amplifiers were unregulated pro-competition cheater amps when they were new.
So currently I have a box built and ready to integrate into the midgate. I went with a minimal box of 1cuft per speaker. I plan to use FiberFill to help them out a little since I essentially made the box that Alpine said they work best in.
My Table saw isn't the best and I used a Dremel with the circle attachment to do the speaker holes. I have a spacer plate that was freehand. Seriously not the quality I would really like but once installed will be impossible to see. I used ACX plywood because I didn't want to deal with MDF for this project. Wanted it to be durable since it will be in the bed of the truck. Used Liquid Nails and Drywall screws to assemble the box. Currently have all of the sides of the box assembled other than the back and the spacer piece. Will go over the internal joints with a bead of either the Liquid Nails or silicon to insure there is no leakage. I plan to blend this into the mid gate, seal to the mid gate with paintable caulk, paint to weather proof then bedline to protect further. As designed the Midgate will still operate as originally intended.
Here are pictures of the box as they are right now. The rear piece has not been installed yet. This box will be bolted to the midgate. Once the box is bolted into place the rear cover will be added. All seams will be sealed again as mentioned either with liquid nails or silicon. The fiberfill bats will be glued to the side walls also prior to installation.
I did use 3/4" plywood for this build. The sanded side is facing outward. The internals of the box I basically built 3 seperate slightly bigger than 1.09 cuft boxes. Nothing fancy. To strengthen the interior there are actually two plywood spacers between each speaker so instead of one 3/4" board between each speaker there are two with each glued to each other as well. So the box SHOULD not flex... No other interior bracing was added since these boxes are so small individually.
I used 3 subs because that is what I bought on the whim of the moment. And without doing something different these are the max that would fit and still keep midgate functional. You can see from these pictures there is not much room at the edges.
Alpine suggests a box 14.5x.14.5x12.5 which ends up being 13" x 13" x 11" internal volume. I did end up going a little deeper to 12" because I was contemplating making the rear panel removable and installing the speakers from the rear. I decided that I can make them removable from the front so abandoned the idea of making rear accessible.
I will post more information as I build this... Current setup..
Stock head unit
I3 based PC with HD Radio is connected to Aux input on Radio (Using PAC Dual Auxilary adapter)
Note that eventually the stock radio will be pulled and system will run fully off PC.
Front Stage is running with Memphis separates I bought from buddies that owned a shop that they closed up due to online shops. They were still making considerable money but decided after 25 years of Mobile Audio they wanted to do something else. Most of their recent calls were to install equipment bought online.
My Rear speakers are Kicker full range (Tweeter integrated)
The rear speakers were installed in place of the disintegrated rear speakers last year. Have them turned way down since they are intended to be rear fill.
The front stage is run with an Audio Art 6 channel amplifier. 2 x 75, 4 x 50. I bridged the 4x50 and making 2 x 100. I am running the 2x100 to the front speakers and the 2x75 to the rear speakers.
My current subs will be pulled. I have two HART 10" subs under the rear seat. Only one is hooked up because the other is either mounted wrong or blown. They fit into the box but need a different home. I will be mounting the working 10" into my CTS and replacing these with 3 12" Alpine 12w4's.
Currently powering the rear sub from a q-audio 2x250 amplifier. Final product will have 3 Audio Art MS 100 amplifiers. These amplifiers are 2x50 but when bridged go to 1 x 200. Running at 13.8volts they put out almost 400 watts. These AA amplifiers were unregulated pro-competition cheater amps when they were new.
So currently I have a box built and ready to integrate into the midgate. I went with a minimal box of 1cuft per speaker. I plan to use FiberFill to help them out a little since I essentially made the box that Alpine said they work best in.
My Table saw isn't the best and I used a Dremel with the circle attachment to do the speaker holes. I have a spacer plate that was freehand. Seriously not the quality I would really like but once installed will be impossible to see. I used ACX plywood because I didn't want to deal with MDF for this project. Wanted it to be durable since it will be in the bed of the truck. Used Liquid Nails and Drywall screws to assemble the box. Currently have all of the sides of the box assembled other than the back and the spacer piece. Will go over the internal joints with a bead of either the Liquid Nails or silicon to insure there is no leakage. I plan to blend this into the mid gate, seal to the mid gate with paintable caulk, paint to weather proof then bedline to protect further. As designed the Midgate will still operate as originally intended.
Here are pictures of the box as they are right now. The rear piece has not been installed yet. This box will be bolted to the midgate. Once the box is bolted into place the rear cover will be added. All seams will be sealed again as mentioned either with liquid nails or silicon. The fiberfill bats will be glued to the side walls also prior to installation.
I did use 3/4" plywood for this build. The sanded side is facing outward. The internals of the box I basically built 3 seperate slightly bigger than 1.09 cuft boxes. Nothing fancy. To strengthen the interior there are actually two plywood spacers between each speaker so instead of one 3/4" board between each speaker there are two with each glued to each other as well. So the box SHOULD not flex... No other interior bracing was added since these boxes are so small individually.
I used 3 subs because that is what I bought on the whim of the moment. And without doing something different these are the max that would fit and still keep midgate functional. You can see from these pictures there is not much room at the edges.
Alpine suggests a box 14.5x.14.5x12.5 which ends up being 13" x 13" x 11" internal volume. I did end up going a little deeper to 12" because I was contemplating making the rear panel removable and installing the speakers from the rear. I decided that I can make them removable from the front so abandoned the idea of making rear accessible.