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Rear U-Joint won't stay in place!

Z66Modder

Z66Modder

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So my Z66 2WD rear U joint snapped off 3 days ago on the highway. Had to have my daughter bring me a new joint and my 8" vice and I pressed it in place in 15 minutes and was back on the road. Checked it again yesterday, and it looked fine. Tonight on the highway doing 60 MPH it did it AGAIN! Only this time I completely lost the the driveshaft. It's somewhere in the dark on I-5. I had to get it towed for $341.00, and then ordered a new Aluminum driveshaft for  $533.00. It has not been a cheap night for me. So my question is regarding the rear yoke straps; seems to me it is suppose to have ridges on the outer edges to keep the U-joint in place is it not? The bands only will not hold it for very long as you can see. I believe the problem is getting the parts from AutoZone. Seems to me I recall the factory ones has a a special shape to keep the joint caps in place but these aftermarket ones are just flat. If that is the case, I am going to weld some heavy washers or cut some this flat bar to them and grind down to keep them even and balanced. Did I mention this aslo happened in the mountains 6 months ago in the snow with a cold stream running under the truck where I had to lay to repair it? As you can tell I'm fed up with this problem.  :E:
 

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Yes should have a lip on each side to center the U-Joint other wise it won't stay centered..


 

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Thanks for posting that Randy. That explains the bevel where the tab should be. Can that be pulled and replaced fairly easy?
If so I think I will go with this Yukon model. It $30 more but I like the full lip to hold the bearing caps in place.

Did some research and with a gear puller it shouldn't be that bad. I will need to borrow a torque wrench from work but it do-able.
Anyone know the torque spec for that nut?
 

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Not 100 percent sure but I don't think it's a simple R&R because of the crush sleeve. Someone may jump in with more knowledge but when you tighten down the nut on the pinion shaft you need to measure the ft lbs of resistance while rotating it and that would mean removing the axles, I don't know if you can R&R it and just snug up.
 
Well I watched 4 videos on RnR of the yoke for bad seals. 3 of the 4 scored the nut and the shaft with a punch or cold chisel to mark the exact spot. 1 of the 4 said to torque it to 150 lbs. They also measured and counted the exposed threads. This seems all fine if you are using the same yoke again. If you can match the bolt position then you don't need to replace the crush sleeve. If the crush sleeve has to be replaced, you might be right about that. I will run a caliper between the 2 yokes and see if the depths match. Hopefully they do and I can just re-tighten to the same position. I might as well do the seal too while I have it apart.

Found this on a help forum that says to measure the inch pounds needed to turn the wheel hubs with the wheels removed. This is all you need after a crush sleeve has already been set.
 

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Well I'm curious where the heck did you get that strap from.
 

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I don't remember where I found it, but the torque is out there somewhere, btw, if you overtighten it, trust me the crush sleeve will let you know just as soon as you start to roll, don't ask me how I know this, lol.

Didit
 
Z66Modder said:
So my Z66 2WD rear U joint snapped off 3 days ago on the highway. Had to have my daughter bring me a new joint and my 8" vice and I pressed it in place in 15 minutes and was back on the road. Checked it again yesterday, and it looked fine. Tonight on the highway doing 60 MPH it did it AGAIN! Only this time I completely lost the the driveshaft. It's somewhere in the dark on I-5. I had to get it towed for $341.00, and then ordered a new Aluminum driveshaft for  $533.00. It has not been a cheap night for me. So my question is regarding the rear yoke straps; seems to me it is suppose to have ridges on the outer edges to keep the U-joint in place is it not? The bands only will not hold it for very long as you can see. I believe the problem is getting the parts from AutoZone. Seems to me I recall the factory ones has a a special shape to keep the joint caps in place but these aftermarket ones are just flat. If that is the case, I am going to weld some heavy washers or cut some this flat bar to them and grind down to keep them even and balanced. Did I mention this aslo happened in the mountains 6 months ago in the snow with a cold stream running under the truck where I had to lay to repair it? As you can tell I'm fed up with this problem.  :E:
Click to expand...

Should have called me, I am sure a car trailer is less than $341.00 to rent.
 
Wickman said:
Should have called me, I am sure a car trailer is less than $341.00 to rent.
Click to expand...

It's Okay John, Geico will pay me back. So the new shaft come with 1330/3R series U joints by Spicer # 5-793X. Supposed to be very strong for a 1330. I ordered a yoke to match w/ seal Yukon YY GM12470387. Say's uses inside snap rings vs. tabs. What is GM standard for rear u joint 1330 or 1350?

Great article here on inside snap rings. http://www.randysdriveshaft.com/inside.html
 
I would like to know why the yoke that is on the truck does not have the tabs to keep the u-joint bearings in place.
Something seems rather dodgy about that!  ???

CarMech1969
 
Check the link I posted in the one above yours.
 
So with the all new driveline in place, everything is good except now I get a high whine on acceleration like if you dip your finger in a crystal wine glass and rub it on the rim. Does not happen while cruising or braking on gassing it. I believe its the two oil seals on the new Yukon rear yoke. It came with one on it plus there is the factory diff front seal. I'm thinking the Yukon has the wrong style and is rubbing against the differential when torque is applied.
Tried to video it here: https://youtu.be/UrUoNUbHHyI

Just fast forward about 30 seconds and watch for 2 minutes and you will hear it.

is this the correct one I used? Yukon (YY GM12470387) Yoke for GM 8.5"/8.6" Differential

Edit: Sent an email to Yukon today to see if I used the correct part.
 
Dis you get this resolved?   :E:
 
This is still a problem so I installed the old yoke to see if things changed, and nothing did. So I am wondering if I had moved the crush sleeve when re-installing the yoke what would be the symptoms? Is that part of pinon bearing preload? I can tear an engine down to bare block and rebuild it, but I am not a tranny or drive-line guy.
 
Z66 sounds to me like you may have over torqued the yoke by just a bit so that the crush sleeve is wearing on the race when you put it back in, I had to tear mine all apart and redo it when I did mine, just a thought.

Didit
 
Yep, Winner Winner Chicken Dinner. Put it in the shop for New Ring & Pinion gears as long as it needs to be tore down that far. Wanted to do that 4 years ago but cost was a factor.
 
Z66Modder said:
Yep, Winner Winner Chicken Dinner. Put it in the shop for New Ring & Pinion gears as long as it needs to be tore down that far. Wanted to do that 4 years ago but cost was a factor.
Click to expand...

At least you only have one set to worry about.

                                                          :laugh:
 
Yes, but it's $1450 plus tax!  :E: Pinon Gear, Ring Gear and bearing all trash but from being loose not tight. Axle bearing contact surfaces have some pitting, installing offset bearings. The only thing staying in the diff housing is my Detroit Tru Track Posi-Traction locker. Those things are bullet proof.
 
ABC Transmissions did a good job. Very quiet back there now. Will report back as I break it in.
 
Z66Modder said:
.... Will report back as I break it in.
Click to expand...

I prefer the phrase

"WORK it in"

Positive thought kinda of thing and saying the word BREAK can be bad luck

 
You are right there bud. Just using the words the tech told me. It is driving smoother every day. I can really feel the shift kit in the tranny now!  :drive:
 
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