My experience changing steering shaft and bearing

I finally got around to the steering shaft and bearing replacement. Here?s what I learned

1. I removed the boot from the firewall (3x10mm bolts) and it worked well
2. I loosened the old shaft by putting a prybar on the knuckle under the dash and giving it a few taps with a rubber mallet
3. Bearing removal, I put the prybar on the white tab and gave it a few taps to get it tarted hen wiggled out by hand
4. Grease the new bearing and end of the upper shaft.i didn?t grease the outside of the bearing
5. Getting the bearing started wasn?t too difficult, I had my middle finger in the bearing to line up the shaft
6. Getting the new bearing in is tough, I used the large socket for my cv axle nuts to put behind the bearing. Rocking it back and forth acted as a hammer and it went right in.
7. Grease the ends to help them go back in place
8. Make sure you clean the boot and that it makes a good seal
9. I used the seat belt to hold the steering wheel in place.
10. I undid the engine bay bolt, then rotated the steering wheel to see the bolt under the column, then secured the wheel.

Combine these lessons learned with the how to thread.

Thanks for this write up.

I have watched many Youtubes on this procedure, as I am sure you did, as well.

I have all of the parts, lube and tools that were shown in the various Youtube videos, sitting and waiting for warmer weather and the motivation to get out there and get it done.

I will be replacing both the bearing and the intermediate steering shaft, as well.

It would appear that getting the new bearing fully in place seems to be the most difficult part of this repair.

I even saw one video where the guy was showing the finished repair and it would appear he wasn't able to fully seat the new bearing, leaving it sticking out a good 1/4 inch or so.

I imagine he gave it his best shot and finally just gave up.

I feel for that guy, but I think he should have stuck with it until it was done correctly.

Was there anything you would do differently, if you had to do this again?

I did not see where you removed the gas pedal, as some had suggested, to get a little extra working space.

I also saw where some did not remove the firewall boot.

I'm assuming you were happy with doing so.

I am trying to get my mind in the right place for this one.

I am not as limber as I once was and the idea of working under the dash in odd positions has very little appeal for this old body.

But, one of these days .....

My hand would probably not look like a scratching post had I removed the pedal too. It did get tight in there. Using the large socket worked awesome as a pseudo hammer. The second hardest part was getting the steering shaft back into the column. I ended up using my left hand to wiggle the steering wheel (still strapped with seat belt to safeguard the clockspring) while rocking the steering shaft knuckle until it clicked and everything lined up. A large flat blade or pry bar helps get the final push. Don?t use the driver or bar on new bearing, they crack easy.

Good information.

Thanks for sharing.

I have already purchased a couple of wrenches that were recommended by some of those that produced videos while doing this repair.

One is a 15 mm boxed end racket wrench to remove and install the bolts on either end of the intermediate steering shaft.

That should help when working in the tight spaces over using just an open ended wrench.

The other wrench is a large 15/16" open ended wrench to assist in seating the bearing.

I now think a 1" or slightly larger open end wrench will also work, just as well.

I test fitted and the open end side of this big wrench spans across the plastic of the face of the intermediate steering shaft side of the new bearing really nicely, allowing me to apply even pressure across the face of the plastic bearing.

The replacement bearing I have has the slot cut in it for the steering position sensor that I believe our trucks do not have.

This wrench fits into that slot so the wrench rests flat against the bearing face plastic.

I may have to cut and make that slot in the bearing a tiny bit bigger due to the way the open end side of this wrench is made.

That should not have any affect on the bearing since that part of the bearing really doesn't do anything.

Or, I may just go find a better fitting wrench.

I am thinking in order to even get this big wrench up close to the end of the bearing to push it to seat, the gas pedal will most likely need to be removed or at least moved out of the way.

I have seen both ways done in the videos.

I was honestly thinking that seating the bearing was going to be the most difficult part of this repair.

I have already acquired a tube of the ACDelco steering shaft lube and I was planning to apply the lube to the inside of the bearing surface and also the part of the upper steering shaft that comes down through the bearing.

Do you see any advantage to also applying a little lube to the actual bearing where it inserts into the steering column.

Some say yes, others do not mention doing so.

I am also thinking that once the bolts are reinstalled with the nuts in place, I should be able to safely turn the steering wheel so that I can go after the nuts straight on with my 15 mm socket and torque wrench to torque these nuts to their proper values.

Torquing these from the side looks to be too tight a fit for my torque wrench and socket.

I am assuming you still feel removing the fire wall rubber boot is the way to go.

I have seen videos doing this both ways.

I also plan on securing the shaft bolts with Red Locktite since I hope to never have to revisit this repair in the future.

Sounds like you are prepared, though I didn?t have room for a box wrench. I used sockets on a long extension. Also I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the nut under the column.

This will probably be a spring project, once it is warmer and I have more daylight to work with.

Thanks for your help.