The last project I had done on my engine was having the oil pump and oil pick up tube with included o-ring assembly replaced.
I suggest using the high volume Melling M295HV-324S oil pump kit with included oil pick up tube and o-ring.
This will ensure you are getting the correct o-ring to match the oil pump, as it comes with the kit.
Several months before I had the oil pump replaced, I had the oil pickup tube and o-ring assembly replaced.
While this improved, but did not correct, the low oil pressure situation I was having at the time, the cure was short lived and more drastic action was needed.
To R&R the oil pump, the oil pan was removed.
On an AWD (like mine) or a 4WD, the front diff can be lowered and secured just far enough forward without having to be completely removed.
The cross member under the engine must be removed.
To remove the timing change cover, the water pump and everything on the front of the engine must be either removed or loosened and moved out of the way, including the radiator.
Make sure you have the correct tools to R&R the crankshaft pulley.
Be sure to review the installation videos on the Melling web site for the correct procedures for installing the standard high volume oil pump.
Oil pump alignment and correct torque of the mounting bolts is important.
You can ignore any talk of shims on the standard high volume pump.
That only applies to the high performance versions of the oil pump.
While reviewing your plan and parts list, I think if it were me, I would not bother with the oil level sensor or the oil diverter.
Unless you are getting false low oil level warnings, the oil level sensor is most likely fine.
Those tend to either work or they don't and are not known to be a problematic part.
I would just clean up the one you have while you have the oil pan off.
If the oil diverter is the one I think you are talking about, that part is used to address an issue with the second generation trucks with the Active Fuel Management system, which a 2006 engine does not have.
I would be hesitant to install something into the oiling system that the engine was not designed for.
If I might suggest something that I do not see you have mentioned, I would consider taking this opportunity to replace both heater hoses and the quick disconnects.
The quick disconnects ARE known to be problematic, especially on higher mileage or just older trucks.
You can purchase the correct parts by going to a dealer's parts department and let them pull the parts according to your VIN.
Do not buy aftermarket parts for these and you will be buying the hoses and quick disconnects as an OEM assembly.
When I did mine, I also replaced the surge tank and cap for good measure, which I was able to buy OEM parts on Amazon.
Just for reference, at the time I decided to have the oil pump replaced, my oil pressures were as follows:
Cold oil idle pressure was just under 35 PSI.
Hot oil idle was around 15 PSI.
Cold oil cruise RPM pressure was around 40 PSI.
Hot oil cruise RPM was around 35 PSI.
HOT WOT oil pressure was around 45 PSI.
I never experienced any lifter or any other noises from the engine that gave me any reason for concern.
I was just not seeing the oil pressures I had remembered and I wanted to make sure the engine was healthy and was given the best possible chance of staying that way.
Immediately after the oil pump was changed out, I began to see the following oil pressures:
Cold idle is now 45+ PSI.
Hot oil idle is a solid touch over 40 PSI.
Cold oil cruise RPM pressure is 60+ PSI.
Hot oil cruise RPM is 55+ PSI.
Hot oil WOT is well over 65+ PSI.
While I did not have any engine noises of concern, I have found the engine now runs smoother and does seem to be somewhat quieter.
I also FEEL like the engine is developing more power across the entire RPM range.
I attribute all of this to the fact that since the oil pressure is more like I had remembered, the lifters are now pumping up more firmly than they were when the oil pressure was running so low before the repair.
Also, the fact that the oil pressure is running consistently higher across all RPM ranges, it is a good indicator of the overall health of the internal bearing surfaces.
Before the pump replacement, there was some concern that the engine was just beginning to show it's age at 230K miles and I would soon be looking at an engine rebuild.
I no longer have those fears, even though the age of the engine may eventually catch up with me, at some point.
Sorry for the long post, but I felt there was a lot of information I wished to pass along.
Best of luck with your project.