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Read this before you mess with your MAF

Thanks. But, I don't deserve the credit. I was "searching" for info on this subject, and actually posted this as a reply to another thread. Another, club member (don't remember who), posted this link originally. If I can retrace my steps I'll edit this.

Thanks, to the moderator, that changed this to its own thread. I'm pleased, you thought enough of it, to warrant its own thread.

:love: :B:

edit: Link originally provided by gandolphxx. Thanks, gandolphxx.
 
Thanks for the story, very interesting.

Butch
 
OOPS!
I hope I am not troubled by code 33.
I did this MOD about 2 weeks ago, so far, so good ???
Got to keep my fingers crossed I guess.

:B:Les :B:
 
Has any one used THIS Product??

I have a Pro-M MAF.

I still agree with the reference in the original post. The return on investment is just not there unless you have a highly modified engine.

Even if a vehicle needed a re-calibrated MAF I don't believe it can be calibrated accurately at the factory.

A key point in the referenced article is the way a MAF functions. It measures a portion of the air flowing over a heated wire. The calculations are based on how this "portion" of the airflow relates to the total flow through the meter.

Let's say you have installed a new air filter kit. Let's also say the new kit causes less air to flow over the wire and more air through the rest of the MAF. The MAF's output will be wrong.

It seems like a Pro-M calibrated MAF would be the perfect cure. The problem is, Pro-m can't duplicate your flow characteristics on their flowbench and have it match exactly to your truck.

If you don't need or can't use the extra flow from a ported MAF it can't help your power output and may even reduce your power.

A cool thing with our truck's computer is it corrects errors. If the MAF is reading off by 10% the computer will make a 10% correction to the fuel injector flow rate. If the error is 10% at idle and 7% at half throttle the computer will store both corrections and use them where needed. There are about 15 "fuel trim cells" the computer uses to store corrections. They match up with various load vs throttle position combinations.

There is a down side to this. Any tricks you try to play on the computer get "learned out" very quickly and end up getting stored as corrections. The computer will detect a change in throttle position very quickly and goes to the "fuel trim cell" for instant info on how to fire the fuel injectors. When it starts to get rich/lean info from the O2 sensors in the exhaust it will make additional corrections.

Adding a component that causes a series of corrections seems like a bad way to improve performance.

kw
 
Redshift said:
...Adding a component that causes a series of corrections seems like a bad way to improve performance.

kw

Is there a good way to increase performance without changing the programming, or are you saying that most or all "add-on" performance mods (e.g. intake, exhaust, ignition, etc.) will result in these stock computer corrections?
 
Is there a good way to increase performance without changing the programming, or are you saying that most or all "add-on" performance mods (e.g. intake, exhaust, ignition, etc.) will result in these stock computer corrections?

That question is a lot more complicated than it seems.

The biggest change that doesn't get "learned out" is to advance the timing, assuming you run higher octane fuel to take advantage of the timing advance. This is about the only significant thing the hand held programmers can do and still be legal for street use.

Changes in air/fuel ratio won't keep you street legal so most of the hand helds won't mess with that.

Eliminating intake and exhaust restrictions (to a point) will improve performance. The hard part is getting it right. The ideal intake/exhaust design varies with engine speed and load. Usually, the max HP design isn't very streetable.

Adding boost makes the most significant and predictable changes.

The easiest and most predictable performance improvements that won't get learned out are;

cold air intake.

Timing advance and higher octane fuel.

Boost.

Removing intake and exhaust restrictions without overdoing it.

If the manufacturers quoted torque improvements many of the gadgets would fall off the radar screen. Increasing HP without increasing torque isn't very useful except on vehicles running wide open.

kw
 
I fully understand the importance of not messing the MAF. but I have a theory that I may have to experiment with.

They claim the honey combs purpose is to be an air straightener right? IF I am not mistaken, K&N claims the same thing about their filter. So maybe with a K&N filter removing the MAF screen will not set the code? From my previous experiments and testing I have done, I found that installing a K&N filter in any vehicle that has a MAF gives very little noticeable difference, but vehicles that dont have a MAF were much more noticeable. I also wonder about the issue of filter oil, would less oil manage to stick to the MAF if the air was allowed to flow straight past?

Just my .02
 
I removed the screen on my 96 Impala SS. On my AV , which is my daily driver, its staying put !!
 
I made the mistake of taking it off my SVT contour and kept throwing CEL, and finally figured it out. :E: I only wish I read this about 5 years ago...... thanks I needed a refresher
 
my 2 5.3's have had the screens out for for 2 years now and they have never never thrown codes at me. lucky me i guess ;D ill definately quit recomending the mod to my friends.
 
Just my 2 cents.  A  aftermarket MAF is a waste of money.  Once you plug it in to your computer harness all it does is lie to your computer and mess things up in it.  Had tried it on a motor and got a engine light reading.  They are junk and your money should be spent else where.
The only reason that you should increase the volicity of air into your motor is if you have heavy mods done to it.  And when you do that I suggest a Fast computer to go on it.  When you do that you do not need a MAF all you have to do is drill a and tap a hole into the side of your tubing and screw the MAF sensor into the side of it and adjust it with your lab top.


Respect Big G
 
Thanks for the input.
I, for one, have considered this option hearing about the ( increase in power) but was leary...
You have exsplained the operation well!
 
I have done this to my silverado it has the 5.3ho version when going up little hills i would hear a little ping with the screen on and when the screen off the tranny would downshift and no more ping, guess i have been luky 10k without it and no problems.
 
Every Chevy I've owned (4) has had the MAF screen removed and I have never had a problem related to it. The theory that the MAF has to be the most restrictive item is flawed. Air is a compressible fluid and while diameter and flow rates are valid points, the screen cuts down the effective diameter of the body, anytime you are forcing a change to a fluid flow you are losing flow momentum. The screen won't make much difference at cruise, but should make a difference in throttle response due to the open inlet.

Now is it safe? Yes and no. If you offroad, go trashing through puddles etc then it's dangerous. Several of my hardcore offroad friends have nailed the nose into a puddle forcing debris into the intake, the maf screen also serves as a final backup against that! Under normal driving and taking good care of your intake this shouldn't be a factor.

I do not recommend the screen without at least a K&N filter though, those inch thick paper filters are by far the most restistant to air flow. As long as you don't mess with the MAF sensors themselves they will always be in the free stream of the air. This is my $.02 and experience, make your own decisions, but I like my throttle response as crisp as possible!
 
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