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REAR AXLE LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL CHATTER SHUDDER NOISE ON TURNS.

anhandrew

Full Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2002
Messages
212
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
I got these from Progressive Insurance Website. I have been complaining about for the last year and GM will not fix it. I just now know about the chatter shudder noise on turn tsb. Wish I found this out before. My truck now has over 36k miles and under 37k miles.

Hope this help anyone else out.

11 of 180: POWER TRAIN

Bulletin Date: JAN 2004
REAR AXLE LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL CHATTER SHUDDER NOISE ON TURNS. *MJ

13 of 180: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Bulletin Date: JAN 2004
SLIP CONDITION IN 2ND, 3RD OR 4TH DAMAGED 2-4 BAND 3-4 CLUTCH. SIT BULLETIN 1402022. SIT BULLETIN 1402022. *TT

14 of 180: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Bulletin Date: JAN 2004
4L80E, 4L85E WHINE NOISE IN FIRST AND SECOND GEAR. SIT BULLETIN 1403292. *TT

15 of 180: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:CONTROL MODULE (TCM, PCM)

Bulletin Date: JAN 2004
VEHICLE HAS NO PCM (POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE) COMMUNICATION WITH TECH 2. SIT BULLETIN 1400427. *TT





 
Hard to tell from what you're posting there, but I'm assuming you have a problem with the rear end chattering.

Have you ever serviced it? Freshening the fluid and adding the correct limited-slip addative may help tremendously.
 
DougD said:
Freshening the fluid and adding the correct limited-slip addative may help tremendously.
Just be careful, Avs do not have limited slip differentials. What the do have, if you have Z-66 or Z-71 are Eaton E80 mechanical locking rear differentials, which are a very different sort of beast. Also, look carefully at the owner's manual, as the front and rear diffs take different kinds of fluids. One takes synthetic, the other takes pretroleum based fluid, and you should not change from one type to the other or you risk damaging seals.

-- SS
 
This morning as I pulled in the parking lot  I hit an ice spot and heard/ felt the Eaton lock. As I pulled into my spot I kinda felt that maybe the rear was still locked as the tires chirped a little. When I went out about 8 hours later the rear was indeed still locked up as it shuddered around turns. About 20 seconds later I heard a pop and it un locked. Has anybody else had this happen ??? Truck has 47K and rear serviced by me at 30K.
 
mine's never done this (almost same # of miles).

What kind of service did your rear diff require at 30k?
 
RichUF said:
mine's never done this (almost same # of miles).

What kind of service did your rear diff require at 30k?

Just a change of fluid. Used whatever is called for, I think synthetic 75w-90. I have always heard the bang when it locks, just never had it not unlock like that. When I purchased my Eaton limited slip for my 96 Impala I was talking to the gear head dude about the Locker in the AV. He has a newer Surburban and he replaced it with a limited slip. He says when the lockers go bad, and they will go bad before 100K, they usally grenade :3: Has me wondering if I should put a limited slip in before that happens ;)
 
As was mentioned about the lubricant, and...

Document ID# 854063
Chevrolet Avalanche​

Locking Rear Drive Axle Chatters in Turns
 

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Thanks Sperry, but I dont think that addresses my problem. Mine was chattering because it locked on ice and then did not unlock. After a few turns I heard it unlock and it no longer chatters. Maybe I should have started a new thread but it probably would have been merged here anyway.
 
I didn't see anything with unlock, yet.. The search engine looks at a "table" of keywords, instead of through the documents. So, what we call something, the general may have a different term used in that table..

An example is that were're all used to saying "Alternator". GM doesn't! They use "Generator". Must be a Chrysler name patent?

----------

I found an ice patch in the middle of a parking lot last April andf played with the antilocks, since I had a lot of room. But when I took off and the rear slipped, Bang! Damn that can hit hard! But it released with no trouble. If your's doesn't release, wouldn't it shudder in turns?
 
Here's a list:

Symptoms - Locking/Limited Slip Rear Axle

Review the system and operation in order to familiarize yourself with the system functions. Refer to Locking Differential Description and Operation or Limited Slip Differential Description and Operation .


Visual/Physical Inspection

  ? Inspect the system for the following:
      - Loose or missing fasteners
      - Obvious damage or conditions which may cause the symptom.
  ? Check the system for proper operation. Refer to Limited Slip Differential Diagnosis or Locking Differential Diagnosis.

Symptom List

Refer to a system diagnostic procedure from the following list in order to diagnose the symptom:
  ? Locking Rear Axle Does Not Lock
  ? Locking Rear Axle Locks in Turns
  ? Limited Slip Differential Chatters in Turns
  ? Locking Rear Drive Axle Chatters in Turns
  ? Noise in Addition to Normal Clutch Engagement
 
The diff not unlocking:

Locking Differential Locks in turns

 

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The chart is an image and there's no hypertext there. I plan to post some Differential tech docs later, after I finish some other's...
 
Its been about six months since my rear would not un-lock and it finally happened again :mad: I was pulling into a parking lot in the rain and this turn alway rocks the AV from left to right because of an un-even grade. On one of the rolls I hit slightly more go pedal than I had to and I had heard the G-80 lock. As I turned into a parking spot I heard/felt the tires hopping. I reversed a little bit and tried again and it un-locked. I think this week I will pull off the cover and take a look. I think I see a Eaton limited slip in my future :love: I will also live dangerously and re-use the cover bolts even though service manual says not to :love:
 
cadboy1 said:
I will also live dangerously and re-use the cover bolts even though service manual says not to :love:

I think almost every shop reuses those bolts.

Sorry to hear that your G80 may be going south though. Weak unit IMO. I'd stay away from the Auburn if you do decide to check out other brands than Eaton, as I've personally had bad experience with an Auburn. Burned it out completely in a year. If it would've been a clutch type instead of a cone style, I at least would've been able to rebuild it instead of tossing it out.  :(
 
TO unlock....

Drive straight and get up to 20 mph....

I beleive once locked they stay locked until 20mph....and locking takes a bit difference in rear wheel speed while under 20mph...
 
isjustus said:
I think almost every shop reuses those bolts.

Sorry to hear that your G80 may be going south though. Weak unit IMO. I'd stay away from the Auburn if you do decide to check out other brands than Eaton, as I've personally had bad experience with an Auburn. Burned it out completely in a year. If it would've been a clutch type instead of a cone style, I at least would've been able to rebuild it instead of tossing it out.? :(

I made quick work of the stock unit in my 96 Impala SS. I replaced it with an Auburn pro not realizing that the stock unit in the Impala was manufactured by Auburn. I think I got almost a year out of it before I one legged it. I now have an Eaton limited slip for 14 months and still leave equal amounts of $$$ BFG G-Force KDW`s on the pavement :love:
 
ygmn said:
TO unlock....

Drive straight and get up to 20 mph....

I beleive once locked they stay locked until 20mph....and locking takes a bit difference in rear wheel speed while under 20mph...

That might be the key. I was pulling in to park both times in happened so I never hit 20 MPH. Next time I will hit 20 MPH and see if it unlocks :love:
 
The problem you have is due to a Bad Rear differential.

The problem will probably cost you more than $500

My advice - is to buy a good used set of instrument cluster gauges - or else feed 12 volts into the back of the odometer you already have.

That will burn out the odometer and then you can tell them that it quit working and it has x amount of miles on it.  They can replace the rear end while they are replacing the odometer.
 
Monte Carlo Man said:
The problem you have is due to a Bad Rear differential.

The problem will probably cost you more than $500

My advice - is to buy a good used set of instrument cluster gauges - or else feed 12 volts into the back of the odometer you already have.

That will burn out the odometer and then you can tell them that it quit working and it has x amount of miles on it.? They can replace the rear end while they are replacing the odometer.

??? :rolleyes:
 
The Odometer memory is in the odometer and not in the On Board Computer.  When you change the odometer - it reads what ever the last vehicle it was in =- for the mileage.

Mine has never been changed - it has 70,000 miles.  Most of them from going back and forth to the dealership.
 
Monte Carlo Man said:
My advice - is to buy a good used set of instrument cluster gauges - or else feed 12 volts into the back of the odometer you already have.

That will burn out the odometer and then you can tell them that it quit working and it has x amount of miles on it.? They can replace the rear end while they are replacing the odometer.

From what I understand the mileage of the vehicle is stored in many locations besides the instrument cluster. ?And if your instrument cluster was burnt out, I can't imagine a dealership taking my word on the miles it had on the vehicle.
(Sorry off-topic)
 
You probably still believe in the tooth fairy and Santa Clause also.

When they see it every week and they know the mileage on it - they aren't going to quibble about 500 miles.

My truck doesn't have a record - it has a album.  One dealer asked me if I would allow his customers to call me about the maintience done  to one of the trucks I sold him.  I told him that it has a new engine and transmission in it.  so it should be like brand new.

Nobody ever called...
 
What does the cluster and mileage have to do with a differential ???
 
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