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Author Topic: U-JOINT QUESTION  (Read 17956 times)
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twotwenty72
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« on: 02/09/05 06:59 AM »

I have a 2002 avalanche 56k miles, I think I have a bad u-joint.  What parts will I need to have it replaced?  Do I just go in and ask for a u-joint or will I need other parts like brackets or someting like that and how much is a u-joint these days anyway?
thanks.
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« Reply #1 on: 02/09/05 07:02 AM »

Just a u-joint Wink

Now, I have to ask as you sound a bit unsure of a u-joint itself, so how is it that you feel it's faulty?
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« Reply #2 on: 02/09/05 08:03 AM »

A very loud squeak coming from under the truck right at the top of the driveshaft.  Its really embarrasing too...I'm turning heads for the wrong reasons Roll Eyes
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« Reply #3 on: 02/09/05 08:18 AM »

A very loud squeak coming from under the truck right at the top of the driveshaft. Its really embarrasing too...I'm turning heads for the wrong reasons Roll Eyes

Doesn't sound like a u-joint.

Crawl under and look at the driveshaft itself for a shiny spot going around it, you probably have something coming in contact with the shaft.
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« Reply #4 on: 02/09/05 08:28 AM »

I agree with Doug a bad u-joint will usually cause a clunk or vibration.
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« Reply #5 on: 02/09/05 08:49 AM »

yep i concur, not a u-joint.

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« Reply #6 on: 02/09/05 09:36 AM »

yeah...I turned the driveshaft by hand and the squeak happens when everything is in rotation and depending how fast the rotation is...i.e. if im going slow a real slow creaking squeak like in a old haunted house type squeak when I'm driving at normal speed (40mph) squeak is fast and kinda high pitched.
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« Reply #7 on: 02/09/05 09:41 AM »

yeah...I turned the driveshaft by hand and the squeak happens when everything is in rotation and depending how fast the rotation is...i.e. if im going slow a real slow creaking squeak like in a old haunted house type squeak when I'm driving at normal speed (40mph) squeak is fast and kinda high pitched.

Can you isolate it to the front or rear end of the shaft?
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« Reply #8 on: 02/09/05 09:48 AM »

I've never heard one do this but I guess it's possible it could squeek if the needles were completely dry but if that was the case I don't think it would last more than a couple of miles before it wore one of the legs off of the cross.  Metal to metal with no grease: Not for long!

Can you move either the front or the rear of the driveshaft up and down or side to side?  If a u-joint is bad there will be some excess play in it.
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« Reply #9 on: 02/09/05 09:56 AM »

The noise is coming from the front of the driveshaft...everything seems secure with the shaft itself, no warps or anything, just a VERY noticable squeak.  This is why I think its the u-joint because the driveshaft is hollow right?
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« Reply #10 on: 02/09/05 10:00 AM »

The noise is coming from the front of the driveshaft...everything seems secure with the shaft itself, no warps or anything, just a VERY noticable squeak.  This is why I think its the u-joint because the driveshaft is hollow right?

Yes, it's hollow.
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« Reply #11 on: 02/09/05 10:00 AM »

Hit the tailshaft of the tranny with a bit of spray lube and see if the noise alters.  If you're mechanically inclined enough, remove the driveshaft and hit the output shaft splies with some lube as well, I'd almost guarantee you're getting noise there.
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« Reply #12 on: 02/09/05 10:14 AM »

Thanks guys,  I'll give it try when I get home.
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« Reply #13 on: 02/09/05 10:31 AM »

I haven't been under my AV yet as I just got it a couple weeks ago but I know alot of time U-joints have greese zerks on them. After market ones for sure but I thought on the larger trucks GM put them on the U-joints that would take care of any squeek from them if it is a U-joint. I can't say I have every had one fail like that. It has always been the klunk that happens when shifting from drive to reverse or park that is caused by the slop that a bad U-joint will create. If you do end up replacing a U-joint. It's not that hard of a job and I would highly recommend getting one that has the greese zerk. It may cost what an extra $.50-1.00 but they last longer. I know my blazer didn't have the greese zerks and when I replaced the U-joint I went with one that I could lube.
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« Reply #14 on: 02/09/05 10:40 AM »

I haven't been under my AV yet as I just got it a couple weeks ago but I know alot of time U-joints have greese zerks on them. After market ones for sure but I thought on the larger trucks GM put them on the U-joints that would take care of any squeek from them if it is a U-joint. I can't say I have every had one fail like that. It has always been the klunk that happens when shifting from drive to reverse or park that is caused by the slop that a bad U-joint will create. If you do end up replacing a U-joint. It's not that hard of a job and I would highly recommend getting one that has the greese zerk. It may cost what an extra $.50-1.00 but they last longer. I know my blazer didn't have the greese zerks and when I replaced the U-joint I went with one that I could lube.

OEM tend to not have the capability, it's replacements that do.
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« Reply #15 on: 02/09/05 10:56 AM »

My front U-joint went bad a few months back and I had a very loud squeak coming from the front ....

Sorry but it sounds like a U-Joint to me....

If you have a good dealer/Mech he will know right away..


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« Reply #16 on: 02/09/05 11:29 AM »

My front u joint went out at 55,000 miles.  It made a creeking sound at low speed then at high speeds it was a constant screeming sound.  New u joint in now and it is good as new.
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« Reply #17 on: 02/09/05 11:31 AM »

Maybe I'm wrong Roll Eyes it wouldn't be the first time. Undecided
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« Reply #18 on: 02/09/05 01:58 PM »

Yes, what stepsidez71 said....this is what my truck is doing...thanks again fellas!
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« Reply #19 on: 02/09/05 02:01 PM »

If it's truly a u-joint making a constant whine, that'll be a completely new one on me in well over 20 years of turning a wrench.

I guess that'll let me go to sleep now, too - I will have learned my new thing for today!
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« Reply #20 on: 02/11/05 07:59 PM »

If it's truly a u-joint making a constant whine, that'll be a completely new one on me in well over 20 years of turning a wrench.

I guess that'll let me go to sleep now, too - I will have learned my new thing for today!

i to have about 18 years of the wrench turning thing and my AV is doing the same thing.

i am going to fix it monday

and my AV has about 55k when it started

i think that it is some thing wrong with the generals u-jounts
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« Reply #21 on: 02/17/05 10:02 AM »

Hey, just to recap.  I finally got my u-joint situation fixed, the whole reason for the squeaking sound was the u-joint.  A new u-joint from the factory was around $75.00.  The stealership was trying to charge me like $250.00 for labor Roll Eyes...went to a local shop here and they charged $80.00 for labor thumbs_up.  Strange how the u-joint went bad, but all is well now.  Thanks again for the feedback from you guys and I hope this thread can help someone else in the future.
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« Reply #22 on: 02/17/05 10:30 AM »

Thanks for the update.  I learned something new.  I've replaced a few u joints but never heard one squeak.
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« Reply #23 on: 03/27/05 12:25 PM »

Both my front and rear u-joints were replaced by the dealer at 42,000 miles.   Dealer charged $225.00.  Cost to do it yourself would be under $50.00 with optional zerk grease fitting.   

They were squeaking !    The faster you went the faster the squeak.

 I live in New York State where they use lots of sand and salt 5 months out of the year.
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« Reply #24 on: 11/24/07 05:51 PM »

Old thread, I know but today it happened to me and I am just searching like a good boy should.  love

We were on a cruise at a GTG today and all of a sudden we all (4 of us in my Avalanche) hear loud squeaking. It was like a tire that is way out of alignment squealing on pavement. Then the next time I stop and take off it is rattling and clunking, , then it squeals again. Next it goes away and at this point I am thinking what the he!!

Well it comes back and is worse and at first we think that something let go in the E-Brake area and is clanging and rubbing the the rear hats. After we get to an area that will hold all of our Avalanches I take a couple of laps around the parking lot with several members listening and they all agree that it is a front u-joint. I think the they epoxy the factory joints and some of the epoxy let gos and squeaked at first. After a couple of stops it fell out and then the cap and bearing come out thus causing the clunking and rattling. So If I can get some help, I know what I will be doing tomorrow! Any recommendations for a good brand of u-joint and where to buy on a Sunday? might as well replace both while the drive shaft is out, right?


Butch
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« Reply #25 on: 11/24/07 06:58 PM »

Old thread, I know but today it happened to me and I am just searching like a good boy should.  love

We were on a cruise at a GTG today and all of a sudden we all (4 of us in my Avalanche) hear loud squeaking. It was like a tire that is way out of alignment squealing on pavement. Then the next time I stop and take off it is rattling and clunking, , then it squeals again. Next it goes away and at this point I am thinking what the he!!

Well it comes back and is worse and at first we think that something let go in the E-Brake area and is clanging and rubbing the the rear hats. After we get to an area that will hold all of our Avalanches I take a couple of laps around the parking lot with several members listening and they all agree that it is a front u-joint. I think the they epoxy the factory joints and some of the epoxy let gos and squeaked at first. After a couple of stops it fell out and then the cap and bearing come out thus causing the clunking and rattling. So If I can get some help, I know what I will be doing tomorrow! Any recommendations for a good brand of u-joint and where to buy on a Sunday? might as well replace both while the drive shaft is out, right?


Butch
try napa,they carry precision u-joints and if you opt for super strength joint you'll get the zerk in the end cap= 2 benefits easier to grease with a needle adapter on your grease gun and removes the weak spot where the cross is drilled for a regular grease fitting.
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« Reply #26 on: 11/24/07 07:19 PM »

97K on mine, even with the salt and sand from NY winters  love I did buy 2 new Precision joint for the rear shaft. I just never got around to it. I would like to replace the whole shaft with an aluminum unit if I could get a part number  Cheesy
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« Reply #27 on: 11/24/07 08:09 PM »

i hate to say this but,i had a dodge ramcharger w/ 4in lift, 440sixpack motor, yep u-joints squeaked before they went!! went through lots of them,and a few axles too!! glad yah got it taken care of. Thumbs up!
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« Reply #28 on: 11/24/07 08:12 PM »

DZ  Butch was not a squeak
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« Reply #29 on: 11/24/07 08:15 PM »

What I would do is replace both of them front and rear, I wish I have more time in Muncie but I have to get back
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« Reply #30 on: 11/25/07 08:51 AM »

DZ Butch was not a squeak

It did start off as a loud squeak, didn't last long till it started clunking and rattling. Yes I will replace both or have them both replaced.

Butch
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« Reply #31 on: 11/26/07 06:57 PM »

DZ Butch was not a squeak


 Big laughter with tears Big laughter with tears
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« Reply #32 on: 11/27/07 08:04 AM »

Mines doing the same.   Is it a hard job to do?  Is there anywhere I could get detailed instructions?
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« Reply #33 on: 11/27/07 08:58 AM »

Mines doing the same.   Is it a hard job to do?  Is there anywhere I could get detailed instructions?

I took mine in and had them replaced. What I read is you need a torch to melt the epoxy that is in there in place of the clips from the factory. Then you might need a press to get them out. I had neither. Later I find that the Z66, like mine does not have the epoxy but rather clips and they are very easy to change! banghead banghead

U-joint replacement starts in post 6 here, info is from our most helpful member ever!  love

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=43274.new#new

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« Reply #34 on: 05/03/09 03:36 PM »

OK, I will ask again, any recommendations for a good brand of u-joint? Right after the last post I had them both replaced with the premium ones that CarQuest sells. They cost me $31.99 each and are making noise again. I am going to call CarQuest tomorrow just to check to see what the warranty is on them but I am guessing a year or less and I have had them in 18 months, still I have only drove maybe 15K on them.....doesn't seem like they should be gone yet does it?


I am hoping that it is a U-joint not something major!



Butch
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« Reply #35 on: 07/05/13 04:32 PM »

I have 2002 avalanche and there is a squealing in front passenger side. Thought it was brakes so changed those and the noise is still there. It gets louder when you turn the steering wheel to the right but stops when you touch the brakes. Anybody have an idea of whats wrong. Sorry it is a 4 wd and the bearing have been replaced a year ago but that was a different kind of sound...could it be u joint or something totally different
Dont know if any of this is linked but couple days after that started my cel came on giving the code po327. Dont know if related or not.
« Last Edit: 07/05/13 07:16 PM by dakota929 » Logged
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« Reply #36 on: 07/05/13 05:37 PM »

You didn't mention 2 or 4 wheel drive, but I'm betting on a bad passenger side wheel bearing
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« Reply #37 on: 07/05/13 07:18 PM »

Changed both sides almost yr ago and it made a different noise than this time
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