Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Keep CAFCNA Alive! Become a Supporting Member Today!

Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!  (Read 4187 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

duramaxHD

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 337
  • gold bowties rule
IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« on: June 6, 2005, 13:39:25 PM »

Hi everyone... I thought you guys could use this info seeing as Bose guards their speaker info like the CIA gaurds missile launch codes... I measured these readings with my multimeter set on the most sensitive setting. All of these measurments are for the [RPO code] UQ7 Bose speaker system. Non-lux (Premium) and Lux have the same speakers. The only difference is the amp. So these measurements apply to both lux and non-lux UQ7 speakers.

FRONT SPEAKERS: ~3.3 ohms     (remember this includes the tweeter because the front speakers have the tweeters wired in parallel with a capacitor to act as a cross-over)

REAR SPEAKERS: ~4.8 ohms

SUBWOOFER: ~3 ohms per voice coil   (remember the sub is a dual voice coil unit...I am 99% sure the amp is wired to the sub with the voice coils in parallel but I am not completely positive)

These impedances should help you out if you want to replace the speakers but still use the Bose amp or replace the amp but keep the speakers. I recommend NOT to do the latter...aftermarket speakers will have some improvment when hooked up to the stock Bose amp, but if you keep the stock speakers and use an aftermarket amp, it most likely will not have any sound improvment.

OK another interesting thing I found. My first TNR/LUX conversion I did in my dad's '03 Tahoe, I used an '044 Hummer H2 lux amp. When I did the conversion in my truck ('05 Silverado HD), I used a '992 Escalade lux amp. I set the bass, treble, DSP, etc.. exactly the same in both vehicles. I got used to driving my truck and just today, I drove my dad's Tahoe...WOW!! The two amps DEFINETLY are different (im not sure if the DSP, EQ or whatever is set differently...) The H2 amp (part # ends in '044) has a VERY noticible clarity increase, but most of all, MUCH more bass. I thought it might just be my speakers in my truck that were maybe different. So a few minutes ago I did a quick amp swap and sure enough, plugging the H2 amp into my truck increased bass and clarity by a very noticible amount. Sooooo.... Case in point: USE AN ['044] H2 AMP IF YOU CAN FIND ONE!!!! IT DOES SOUND MUCH BETTER!!!!! Luckilly my dad probably wont notice that I ended up switching the amps (I kept the H2 amp in my truck and put the Escalade amp in his Tahoe) :4:

Hope all that info helps!!

-----Ben

Edit: BB Code.
« Last Edit: June 6, 2005, 19:26:24 PM by sperry »
Logged
-2005 Silverado 2500HD, Duramax/Allison, LT, CC/SB, 4x4, Black-
BD Supermax turbo!!! Suncoast IV trans, custom EFILive tunes, XM, Escalade LUX TNR/CDX, 11 Bose speakers! AFE stage 2, Escalade handles, tierod Sleeves, 18" Eagle's/BFG 285's, MBRP Cool duals, HID's, Denali Wood steering wheel/wood window switches, Prodigy brake controller, Autometer Nexus EGT/Boost gauges, roof lamps, "Denalified" interior with Denali center console!!!
...if I won the lottery, I'd put an Avy body on my Dmax...

younghog

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 109
  • I'm the Real Deal.
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #1 on: June 6, 2005, 14:40:24 PM »

The H2 amp (part # ends in '044) has a VERY noticible clarity increase, but most of all, MUCH more bass. I thought it might just be my speakers in my truck that were maybe different. So a few minutes ago I did a quick amp swap and sure enough, plugging the H2 amp into my truck increased bass and clarity by a very noticible amount. Sooooo.... Case in point: USE AN ['044] H2 AMP IF YOU CAN FIND ONE!!!! IT DOES SOUND MUCH BETTER!!!!! Luckilly my dad probably wont notice that I ended up switching the amps (I kept the H2 amp in my truck and put the Escalade amp in his Tahoe) :4:

Hope all that info helps!!

-----Ben

SWEET.. Off to check the numbers used on my install. However with me having a half splice wire and having to solder it with all the headaches.. i'm cool with the enhancement I have now.  :A:

But will easily look out for one one a swap out..

YOUNGHOG
Logged
04' YUKON XL SLT; XM ; NO-ONSTAR; NO Y91

as of 04.15.05 FULL LUX TNR Installed with LUX AMP

Click Here: For PICS..

-----------
"You have to let it all go, Neo. Fear,
doubt, and disbelief. Free your mind."
- Morpheus

sperry

  • Silent Avalanche - In Memorial
  • Full Member
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13,160
  • I'll be right down...
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #2 on: June 6, 2005, 19:45:45 PM »

Ben, the capacitor won't enter into a DC measurement.

To accurately measure a speaker's impedance (AC Resistance), I used a tone generator, amp and wheatstone bridge with a low value pot and an ac voltmeter. If the pot wasn't calibrated, I would just measure it out of circuit afterward with a simple Ohmmeter.

There are other methods and test equipment, but this was simple enough.

When measuring, one adjusts the pot for a null/0-Volt reading.

The reason you read what you do with a DC meter, is the audio frequencies and low inductance of the speaker coil(s), aren't really that different than just their inherent DC resistance.

Remember that when working with this low of resistance/impedance, small wires add to the measurement, even though they are not a reactive component.


Now, where's that `454 amp!
Logged
’03  Z71 3:73 LPM Cladded. Fact. Roof Rack, TowPk, XM, Gen 6.2 OnStar, leather & heated/mem. Delphi OEM (UM8 INR Nav System W/Bose Luxury audio). BkUp Cam & entertainment on Nav . DIC, DIO’d Esc. Platinum cluster, Console DVD W/3 Vizlogic 7” 16:9 (two in articultng. '02 HR's & one in pass. visor), 3  A/V inputs/FM headph's. SS893 Fogs, Amber DRL's, All4onHi, All4OnBrake.

duramaxHD

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 337
  • gold bowties rule
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #3 on: June 6, 2005, 20:09:33 PM »

Oh boy...the stuff you know Steve...im sitting here chuckling as I read this just because I think it is incredible how you are so knowledgeable in everything!!! I have always loved this mechanical/electrical stuff and I am soaking up all that I can...although I only just turned 18 so I have much learning to do ;D

"To accurately measure a speaker's impedance (AC Resistance), I used a tone generator, amp and wheatstone bridge with a low value pot and an ac voltmeter. If the pot wasn't calibrated, I would just measure it out of circuit afterward with a simple Ohmmeter."

I think I sort of get the gist of what you are saying...I know what a voltage potentionometer (i forget what theyre called and how its spelled...ive just always called it a voltage pot) is but Im not sure what a wheatstone bridge is...i know ive seen it mentioned in one book or another.

"The reason you read what you do with a DC meter, is the audio frequencies and low inductance of the speaker coil(s), aren't really that different than just their inherent DC resistance."

Yup, I follow you there ;)

"Remember that when working with this low of resistance/impedance, small wires add to the measurement, even though they are not a reactive component."

Yeah, I measured the resistance at the amp connector. I did think about the resistance of the speaker wires...so the values that I gave above are actually about .1 ohm lower than what my multimeter said. I completely guessed how much resistance the wires were adding...as much as I love to take things apart...im not quite ready to tear off the door panels of the new truck!

Thanks again for the help and setting me straight with those ohm readings ;)

---Ben
Logged
-2005 Silverado 2500HD, Duramax/Allison, LT, CC/SB, 4x4, Black-
BD Supermax turbo!!! Suncoast IV trans, custom EFILive tunes, XM, Escalade LUX TNR/CDX, 11 Bose speakers! AFE stage 2, Escalade handles, tierod Sleeves, 18" Eagle's/BFG 285's, MBRP Cool duals, HID's, Denali Wood steering wheel/wood window switches, Prodigy brake controller, Autometer Nexus EGT/Boost gauges, roof lamps, "Denalified" interior with Denali center console!!!
...if I won the lottery, I'd put an Avy body on my Dmax...

Zoojelly

  • CAFCNA 2004 Supporting Member
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 343
  • Supercharged Suburbalanche
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2005, 08:05:27 AM »

I recently swapped out my center console for a jumpseat and now want to installa JL audio stealth box in place of the seat base,but first when I removed the RSA headphone jacks there is a blue connector open now and very low rear speaker audio.I have the diagram of the connector (thanks sperry) but am unsure what to loopback in order to get the audio restored.
I can fit my extra wiring and bose amplifier under the dash but want to know what amp would be good for this 300 watt woofer besides the jl250 watt model (since the JL audio guy doesn't want to sell to me); How do I hook this up to my bose sytem code UQ7?
Logged
2004 Z66 Sport Red WBH adopted 9/27/04 even though it has a hole in the roof and seats made from cows skin; 
You can track my 68 GTO frameoff restoration at Performance Years

ygmn

  • Administrator
  • Full Member
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 33,623
  • Insert Funny Text Here _______________ .
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2005, 09:08:41 AM »

Yes speaker impendance is a function of frequency and does change.....

So to measure impendance...most speaker manufacturers kinda do what sperry posted..and plut a polar graph of impendance versus frequency...

then they average it out to come up with nominal..

for most..the bass frequencies derive low impendance while medium to high give you the higher impedance values...
Logged
Thread Killer ... After I post they die?
2002 Pewter Z66 - Sept 2001
CAFCNA Album
LSU BABY!
YANKEES BABY!
SAINTS BABY!

Zoojelly

  • CAFCNA 2004 Supporting Member
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 343
  • Supercharged Suburbalanche
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #6 on: June 23, 2005, 06:32:49 AM »

Anyone know the  termination required for the headset rear audio since I removed the RSA components?
Logged
2004 Z66 Sport Red WBH adopted 9/27/04 even though it has a hole in the roof and seats made from cows skin; 
You can track my 68 GTO frameoff restoration at Performance Years

sperry

  • Silent Avalanche - In Memorial
  • Full Member
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13,160
  • I'll be right down...
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #7 on: June 23, 2005, 09:13:50 AM »

Stock or aftermarket audio system?

RSA is the rear audio of the OEM HU. That is routed through the RSA when it's off, to the rear inputs of the Bose premium crap amp. If you still have the other OEM parts, you need to wire the loop-through for your rear audio, to the amp. Or no audio to the rear speakers.

The inputs were low level, not a real problem.

If you replaced your HU, it just depends on your wiring.
Logged
’03  Z71 3:73 LPM Cladded. Fact. Roof Rack, TowPk, XM, Gen 6.2 OnStar, leather & heated/mem. Delphi OEM (UM8 INR Nav System W/Bose Luxury audio). BkUp Cam & entertainment on Nav . DIC, DIO’d Esc. Platinum cluster, Console DVD W/3 Vizlogic 7” 16:9 (two in articultng. '02 HR's & one in pass. visor), 3  A/V inputs/FM headph's. SS893 Fogs, Amber DRL's, All4onHi, All4OnBrake.

Flint4x4

  • Silent Avalanche - In Memorial
  • Full Member
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13,339
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2005, 09:20:40 AM »

.... the Bose premium crap amp.

I like my crap amp but then how loud do you need the Opie & Anthony show  :D
Logged
'94 Chevy S10 ext. cab. low miles, '09 GMC Acadia low miles
FWD + RWD = 4x4, loaded '04 AV totaled late 2016

Zoojelly

  • CAFCNA 2004 Supporting Member
  • Full Member
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 343
  • Supercharged Suburbalanche
Re: IMPORTANT BOSE INFO!!!!
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2005, 09:20:26 AM »

Stock or aftermarket audio system?

RSA is the rear audio of the OEM HU. That is routed through the RSA when it's off, to the rear inputs of the Bose premium crap amp. If you still have the other OEM parts, you need to wire the loop-through for your rear audio, to the amp. Or no audio to the rear speakers.

The inputs were low level, not a real problem.

If you replaced your HU, it just depends on your wiring.
My sytem was stock ,still is exect for the RSA jacks removed with the console,I thought I would have to add a resister /inductor to compensate for the headphones so I should beable to just connect Rear right + to drain right ect and left channel to it's drain or negitive ...right?
Logged
2004 Z66 Sport Red WBH adopted 9/27/04 even though it has a hole in the roof and seats made from cows skin; 
You can track my 68 GTO frameoff restoration at Performance Years
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.114 seconds with 24 queries.