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Author Topic: New interm strg shaft released.  (Read 8183 times)
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kgt
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« on: 02/01/07 08:31 PM »

I have heard this has been coming, gm says its now here and here is the bulletin that was released last night!! for your reading pleasure...lol



 Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)



Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

 1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)

 2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

 2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

 1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)

 2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

 2003-2006 HUMMER H2



Attention:  This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003L (Section 02 -- Steering).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

    •  Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).

    •  Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input. 

Correction
DO THIS
 DON'T DO THIS
 
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
 Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
 

Important: 

   •  I-shaft P/N 19155614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.

   •  Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.


Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
 


For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
 


From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1.  Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

6.2.  Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

6.3.  Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.


 


From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1.  From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.

8.2.  From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1.  Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.

14.2.  Install the two retaining nuts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

14.3.  Reposition the carpet into place.

Parts Information
Part Number
 Description
 
19153614
 Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
 
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SpottyJ
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« Reply #1 on: 02/01/07 08:36 PM »

Great news kgt, thanks.  Now we don't have to explain how you exercise anymore Tongue
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« Reply #2 on: 02/01/07 08:53 PM »

$121 list.  Not TOO bad.
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« Reply #3 on: 02/01/07 08:55 PM »

very interesting. thumbs_up
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So, didja?

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« Reply #4 on: 02/01/07 09:00 PM »

Of course this really precludes me from lubing and exercising my shaft Sad

I already spent the money on lube, too.
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2003 Victory Red WBH Z66.  Suburban moldings.  Color-matched handles.  K&N FIPK-II.  Dynomax Cat-Back.  DVD/TV & Vizualogics.  Ambers.  Silverstars Hi, Lo & Fog.  Police Pursuit wipers.  Dually rear clearance light (still in the box).
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« Reply #5 on: 02/01/07 09:01 PM »

Perfect timing! Mine's starting to clunk, guess next LOF i can get that warranteed

...and the window that doesn't work


...and the encoder motor that's failing


...and whatever else breaks between now and then


15K seems a tad soon to be falling apart veryangry

personally i'm relieved there's a new fix-wasn't looking forward to the lube and excersize the shaft discussion with the service mgr.
« Last Edit: 02/01/07 09:03 PM by DaytonaZ71 » Logged
DougD
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So, didja?

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« Reply #6 on: 02/01/07 09:17 PM »

personally i'm relieved there's a new fix-wasn't looking forward to the lube and excersize the shaft discussion with the service mgr.

You don't have a hot gal as your service advisor?

Mo, new career choice for ya!!!!!  Just think how many overpriced tire rotations you could sell to the lonely elderly men.
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2003 Victory Red WBH Z66.  Suburban moldings.  Color-matched handles.  K&N FIPK-II.  Dynomax Cat-Back.  DVD/TV & Vizualogics.  Ambers.  Silverstars Hi, Lo & Fog.  Police Pursuit wipers.  Dually rear clearance light (still in the box).
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got Mo?

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« Reply #7 on: 02/01/07 09:32 PM »

You don't have a hot gal as your service advisor?

Mo, new career choice for ya!!!!! Just think how many overpriced tire rotations you could sell to the lonely elderly men.

hehe...funny, Doug.. but i'd rather work on the trucks than "advise" .... Tongue
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« Reply #8 on: 02/01/07 09:34 PM »

hehe...funny, Doug.. but i'd rather work on the trucks than "advise" .... Tongue

The GM Mr. Goodwrench uniform wouldn't look so good on you though, and I doubt the schoolgirl outfit is "shop-friendly"
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« Reply #9 on: 02/01/07 09:36 PM »

You don't have a hot gal as your service advisor?

Mo, new career choice for ya!!!!!  Just think how many overpriced tire rotations you could sell to the lonely elderly men.
My service advisor at Jon Hall was a total babe but since I've switched to New Smyrna Chev, it's some doggy guy.
MUCH less distracting.
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moosc
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« Reply #10 on: 02/01/07 09:51 PM »

 any pics on the new shaft? whats differnt? gues the techs got tired of lubing and pumping the shafts
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kgt
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« Reply #11 on: 02/01/07 09:58 PM »

I have to replace one, since they were just released yesterday....not sure whats different other than what the bulletins says....
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« Reply #12 on: 02/02/07 09:06 AM »

Thanks KGT..

take pic of new one next to old one...

that would be cool so as to sompare diffferences..



Also for the record..

my 2002 does not clunk and is probably a perfect specimen of a perfect Avalanche!!!

hehehe
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« Reply #13 on: 02/02/07 09:09 AM »

I just paid to have my shaft lubed...(out of the gutter you pervs)

But I also had to do the body shim thing....popping noise was coming from both sources.
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« Reply #14 on: 02/02/07 09:20 AM »

You think GM would have learned. I took my wifes 2006 Lacrosse in on Tuesday for a clunk in the steering. Guess what the dealer did...per a TSB...installed a lube kit. I guess GM wasn't satisfied with messing up our trucks, now they are after our cars. Dealer said it was very common. He knew what it was the minute I told him.

AVid
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« Reply #15 on: 02/02/07 11:58 AM »

Just ordered the new shaft from GM Parts Direct, $87.93 shipped.  Hope this works, I've had the damn thing changed once and lubed twice.  It's almost got me to the point of getting rid of the AV.

Kajun Cheers!
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« Reply #16 on: 02/06/07 11:25 PM »

Just had the new 19153614 shaft installed in my 02 Avalanche as outlined in TSB 00-02-35-003M.  Fourth time for this concern.  Two other times were lube kits, one replacement with 88965505.  Covered under GMPP.  So far ride is tight, very responsive, no clunk.  I'll let you all know how it turns out...
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« Reply #17 on: 02/07/07 05:03 AM »

Just had the new 19153614 shaft installed in my 02 Avalanche as outlined in TSB 00-02-35-003M.  Fourth time for this concern.  Two other times were lube kits, one replacement with 88965505.  Covered under GMPP.  So far ride is tight, very responsive, no clunk.  I'll let you all know how it turns out...
hope this solves it for you wayne.woodward@gma
welcome to the club!
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« Reply #18 on: 02/07/07 09:48 PM »

Is this a DIY?  No mention of wrench turning here.  I definitely need this done, but would prefer to do it myself if possible?  Mine has gotten so bad, I will break down and take it in if I have to. Extremely annoying.
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« Reply #19 on: 02/07/07 10:31 PM »

Is this a DIY?  No mention of wrench turning here.
read first post again Roll Eyes
I have heard this has been coming, gm says its now here and here is the bulletin that was released last night!! for your reading pleasure...lol



 Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)



Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

 1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)

 2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

 2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

 1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)

 2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

 2003-2006 HUMMER H2



Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003L (Section 02 -- Steering).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

 • Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).

 • Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.

Correction
DO THIS
 DON'T DO THIS
 
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
 Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
 

Important:

 • I-shaft P/N 19155614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.

 • Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.


Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
 


For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
 


From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.


 


From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.

8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.

14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.

Parts Information
Part Number
 Description
 
19153614
 Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
 

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« Reply #20 on: 02/07/07 11:04 PM »

You know what ,I have said this about 10 times since I have had my AV  I love this site! love I was at the dealer last tuesday and the service dept told me this shaft was the cause of the noise and told me there was no replacement yet so I come to look for an answer here on what to do and I see this. everyone here is great . I am going to bring this to the dealer in the morning! I need a hug
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« Reply #21 on: 02/08/07 07:05 AM »

read first post again Roll Eyes
  Yeah, thanks.  I read the first post....first.  No need for an entire repost. That's a bulletin, prescribing a procedure.  I should have been more specific.  I meant actual wrench turning by a trusted AV owner.  I was looking for feedback from someone who has ordered the new shaft, and performed the install themselves.
I have a good idea what it takes from a previous thread with respect to installing an aftermarket shaft, but a lot of times it's about the nuances, isn't it!
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03WBH $27k, Homemade Bedslide $150, Eclipse HU JBL Amps Focals 4 Banger $1500, Hotchkiss Suspension $400, JB PCM $150,   LOF $95.  The look on my face after the wife dented the entire passenger side of the AV on a Sonic drive-in speaker....priceless.
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« Reply #22 on: 02/08/07 07:39 AM »

  Yeah, thanks.  I read the first post....first.  No need for an entire repost. That's a bulletin, prescribing a procedure.  I should have been more specific.  I meant actual wrench turning by a trusted AV owner.  I was looking for feedback from someone who has ordered the new shaft, and performed the install themselves.
I have a good idea what it takes from a previous thread with respect to installing an aftermarket shaft, but a lot of times it's about the nuances, isn't it!
I have not changed mine yet but is is on order with an estimated delivery date of the 10th. I have seen my neighbor remove the shaft and lube it per the old TSB on his Silverado.  Took him probably about 30 minutes to  complete.  The critical thing is not to turn the steerng wheel with the shaft disconnected.  He did not have the J 42640 anti rotation pin mentioned in the TSB.  Other than that it's just 2 bolts.

Kajun Cheers!
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« Reply #23 on: 02/08/07 09:44 AM »

Cool.

I have a 2004 and had been wondering about the clunking for about a month. Luckily, the truck is still under warranty and the shaft was replaced for FREE..

Whoooo Hoooo
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« Reply #24 on: 02/08/07 09:56 AM »

Well, I suppose, since in the last week I have installed a steering stabalizer, replaced the bumpstops, had new keys installed and the truck aligned, this is the next good way to spend some $$ Roll Eyes
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Chevy Avalanche Fan Club Forum  |  Avalanche Owners Zone  |  Chevrolet Avalanche Problems, Questions & Answers  |  Problems: Drivetrain & Steering (Moderator: ItsStopher)  |  Topic: New interm strg shaft released.
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