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$500 To Spend...Any Suggestions?

techman

SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2002
Messages
138
Location
Suwanee, GA
Hey guys,

I've got $500 to invest in performance mods. I know that I'm going to get the MSD wires, but after that I'm undecided. :cautious: Any ideas?
 
Could give it to me... ;D

Seriously though, You could get a Hypertech or Predator programmer, or work on the exhaust system.
 
Nightshark said:
Could give it to me... ? ;D

That's tempting....maybe not ;)

I'm thinking about the Hypertech and a Flowmaster, just want to make sure that I get the most bang for the buck.
 
I just got a Flowmaster 50 and love it. The rest of the money can be spent on a Hypertech. That would be a total of about 500.

Wiki
 
Thanks Wiki, that is the way that I've been leaning. Just want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something else.
 
I would look for a good used HTTP II then get the muffler, wires and a drop in K&N air filter. You might have enough left this way for a Throttle body spacer.

Butch
 
Exhaust ...

JBA Cat-Back ... You basically get a Magnaflow Cat Back for $265 ... The systems are nearly identical ... (12579 Muffler ... unbranded ... hehe ) ...

Skip the Flowmaster unless you want their trademark "sound" ... Anything but a series 70 will resonate inside like heck ...

If you're gonna spend the money on just a muffler install, you might as well just spend the same on the JBA Cat-Back and get all new from the cat-back ...

A full 3" with a 12579 is good for 10HP and 16 TQ ... That's about all you can expect from ANY cat-back on the 5.3 ... Plus this muffler is specially designed for the 5.3 / 4.8 ...

11H
 
If you're considering the MSD wires, check out the ThunderVolt 50s mentioned in the MSD thread. I think it looks like those came out on top for performance and longevity.

 
TXAVy...too late on the MSD's, they should be arriving soon. Thanks anyway.

11H...thanks for the input, if you had to pick 2 items from the list of:

1. JBA catback
2. Hypertech
3. Volant w/optional cold air intake

which two would you pick? I know that adds up to more than $500, but I knew that I'd go over, so I set the original budget low ;D.

How do you think the Volant cold air intake compares to the system that you designed? Could it be added to the stock air box? ???

Thanks for your thoughts,
Techman
 
Sorry to bust in on the conversation but what do MSD wires do? I know, Im dumb.
 
techman,,,

I would do the cat-back and the programmer ... I'm not a fan of the Volant ... Why do you want an intake kit ?

Some people differ on why; that's why I ask ...

I think if you wanted an intake kit, the only mass produced one that "might" make more power is the AEM ... The Volant would be my last choice ... ?Or you could build the kit I have mentioned here in the past ... :sleep:

11H
 
11H said:
I think if you wanted an intake kit, the only mass produced one that "might" make more power is the AEM ... The Volant would be my last choice ... ?Or you could build the kit I have mentioned here in the past ... :sleep:

11H

11H,

Your posts about intake systems have given me pause about those systems (I'm interested in real gains and not just sound) and caused me to consider the kit that you described. ?However, in looking at the optional air scoop kit for the Volant, it appears to be similar to what you describe in your kit. ?Not being one who has "fabricated" parts in the past, I was thinking that it might be easier to install the Volant air scoop to the stock air box. ?If that were possible, it would retain all of the performance capabilities of the stock box that you talked of and add the benefit of bringing in cooler air in a system with a more "manufactured look." :cool:

Have you looked at the Volant air scoop and compared it with your kit? ?If so, do you think that it would offer the same benefits? ?I'm seriously considering giving it a try, but before I do I'd like to hear your comments. (y)
 
Da_Lanche said:
Sorry to bust in on the conversation but what do MSD wires do? I know, Im dumb.

Da_Lanche,

Check out the thread on MSD's on page 2 of the Performance Mods.

Techman
 
techman,,,

Have you looked at the Volant air scoop and compared it with your kit? If so, do you think that it would offer the same benefits? I'm seriously considering giving it a try, but before I do I'd like to hear your comments.

I can't remember where I read it here, but someone posted info in an article or something that the Volant made some power, but when the ram tube was added, they didn't ... Don't let this "discourage you" , I am just wondering if you saw the same thing ... Here's a good post by Y2K_Silverado on a ram tube setup ... Sounds like diameter makes a big difference... Although Dyno pulls or GTech samples would be nice, I think he's good with his stopwatch:

"Ram Air" Post By Y2K_Silverado

As long as Volant would sell the tube seperately, the only thing I would try to find out is if it would be possible to affix to the oem box...

11H
 
The Volant add-on tube is around $150 bucks...for a chunk of plastic. Someone here has tried it and suggested that it was of little or no benefit.

On the subject of changing spark plug wires, I have to ask, why? I have read a lot of claims lately about the results from changing wires, running the gamut from 2mpg increase all the way to smoother shifting. If your engine is already running on all eight, and not throwing misfire codes, and providing a fat, blue spark, why would new plug wires make any difference? Ignition systems are usually hot-rodded because of running hard to ignite mixtures, high compression ratios, very high rpm and for supercharged applications. When going through an ignition system, spark plug wires are the end of the line, not the beginning. I'm sorry, but I have to question claims of four HP gains from replacing plug wires on a new vehicle.

I would suggest that the most cost effective mods would be;

1. HPP3 Programmer.

A custom PCM reprogram could yield more, but without the ability to remove and replace it before a trip to the dealers, you run the risk of losing it should the service department flash the PCM for whatever reason.

2. K & N Filter for stock air-box.

The air-box swap can be a costly operation. I tend to disagree with 11H 's assessment of their usefulness, but admit that any gains here don't come cheap. For $50 or less you can get a K & N filter that will last as long as 50,000 miles, depending on operating environment.

3. Muffler/Exhaust.

Here I would (and did) change out only the muffler. Changing the whole system out makes more sense if headers are in your future. Otherwise, you're up against the law of diminishing returns. The stock system is not that bad, other than being too damn quiet.

I would avoid:

1. Modding or replacing MAFS. The stock piece flows more than the stock throttle body will flow.

2.TBS (throttle body spacer). Spacers have there place, and it is usually on top of a dual plane intake manifold and underneath a carburetor.

As always, YMMV.

 
On the subject of ?changing spark plug wires, I have to ask, why? I have read a lot of claims lately about the results from changing wires, running the gamut from 2mpg increase all the way to smoother shifting. If your engine is already running on all eight, and not throwing misfire codes, and providing a fat, blue spark, ?why would new plug wires make any difference? Ignition systems are usually hot-rodded ?because of running hard to ignite mixtures, high compression ratios, very high rpm and for supercharged applications. When going through an ignition system, spark plug wires are the end of the line, not the beginning. I'm sorry, but I have to question claims of four HP gains from replacing plug wires on a new vehicle.

So you are saying that all those that have done wires are all suffering the placebo effect ?

As far as "hits" go, the MSD/Wires thread is well over 6,000 ... That's an all time top 5 thread in this section ... Yep, we're either all looney or stupid for spending our dollars on such a fruitless mod ... ?:p

Trust me Steel, ?I have stated this before, as a matter of fact I think I stated it in the light of your skepticism ... They do make a difference ... Don't ask me why, but they do ... As a matter of fact, on my last 5.3's I never changed the wires ... As I was a skeptic too ... ?>:D

There's an old phrase called, "don't knock it until ya try it..." ... I respect your background highly, and we are at odds in opinion sometimes... But I'm standing up on this one ...

I tell you what, you go any buy a set of Taylor TV-50's or MSD's and if you can HONESTLY tell me that you don't feel a difference in how the truck acts, I'll send you a $50 spot via paypal ... Now you have no reason to not try a set or refute our assertions... LOL ... BTW, I wasn't one that claimed better mileage, more HP, or smoother shifting ... ?>:D ... All I said was a smoother powerband and increased response / less dead spot on bottom ... A truck doesn't have to make more HP to be faster ...

For the masses: ? Take 2 350 vettes, ?and run them side by side on the dyno one Tuned Port and one Carbureted ... They should be about the same on max HP ... Run them at the track with the same driver, and the carbureted vette will get beat by quite a margin ... ?The trap speeds will be very close, but the E.T. on the Tuned Port car will be less...

Now as far as the cold air kits, we'll always be at odds I think ... LOL ... ?>:D

11H

P.S. ... Since we're basing this whole thread on opinion and not fact... (of which I reference a lot ... fact) ... My buddy at the dealership here drove my truck last week after he centered my steering wheel on the rack, and commented on how gutsy my truck was from a stand still and on bottom end ... I think his words were, "it has no common hesitation or lag from the bottom when it starts out... Big difference from my avalanche, and the 5.3's I drive ... " ... Could it be the hpp3? or the cat back? ... Not in my opinion ... The magnaflow kit ADDED to the deadspot on bottom, the hypertech helped a little, and the wires did the most ... And it IS possible that the oem wires with 750+ ohms of resistance vs. the TV-50's with 50 Ohms may just increase the flame front propagation through a stronger flame kernel ... More voltage @ the gap means a quicker, more effecient burn ... Now Taylor has dyno sheets to back up the HP gains, are they real? maybe not, but they're the only ones who boast about it and they are a pretty long standing company who makes a good product ... Try a set Steel ... Quit being so stubborn ... Heck, I offered to even buy them for you ... LOL ... Aint I a nice guy ? ... 11H thinks Steel is missing out ... ?:2:

11H
 
Placebo effect? It is entirely possible, it happens frequently.
Have you done any track or dyno testing yet with the various wires you have tried out?

I have bulk Accel wire already sitting in my storage unit, I would just need to buy the proper insulators. If I decide to do this, I may try out Magnacore, since I haven't used them before.

So you are willing to send me one U.S. Grant if I can't feel a difference? How about if the difference is to the negative? ;D
 
Steelhead and 11H are started to sound like me and my roomate :) Except I didn't offer him any "donations" and he has a pretty think skull as it is. We were argueing...errr I mean discussing wires also. He said they do nothing...I said can't hurt putting better wires in, so most likely it should help. Maybe you can't feel it, but it should help. You know what happens late night after a couple hours at the bar. I just tell myself that I had fun putting them in :):):) since I've no data to prove. My MSD sure look cool though!!
 
SteelheadChaser,
I, too, am always sceptical about claims that plug wires (or virtually any ingnition component 'upgrade') can make ANY difference to a modern engine over the original eqipment in good working order.
However, I just laid out for a set of TV50's.
1) The many consistent reports of a modest improvement at a boundary condition, and no denials...
2) If any improvement it should be at a boundary (idle or WOT).
3) I think 11H has clearly established that both idle and WOT are truly boundary condition compromises for the engine management system, at least with respect to air management.
4) Knowing the cost saving pressures on designers, and the apparent philosophy of the designers in respect of expected driving habits (Softer shifts than enthusiasts would want, quieter muffler, torque management to prevent tire-chirping take-offs, etc.) I find it believable that they would find a slight lag off idle and low throttle an acceptable compromise to save several dollars costs on the wires. I noticed the softness off idle immediately I test drove an AV, I phrased it as 'It kinda wants to put on it's shoes before it starts to run'.
So I find it believable that better wires ON THIS ENGINE CONFIGURATION should make that modest improvement.
And , while I don't, and won't, run WOT much, I would like to get rid of that slight lag.
So I won't be doing most of the performance mods, but this one seems very sensible, for any usage.
Finally, the placebo effect IS REAL. People do recover from illness when given a sugar pill, and told it's medicine. If I perceive an improvement in driveability, I'll take it. That might be different if I was racing, and my perceptions weren't the important thing, but I'm not, and if I think my AV drives better for me, whatever the reason, that's a GOOD THING.

Please remain sceptical, so will I, but I bought a set of these, and I'm eagerly awaiting their arrival.
 
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