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How tight should front pads fit in bracket?

tedsred03

New Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Messages
4
I have a 2003 Z66 WBH and replaced the front pads and rotors last weekend.  I had to use mallet to remove the old pads from the caliper bracket where they slide.  The new pads fit so tight that I had to use a mallet to get them into the bracket.  I thought that was too tight, so I filed down the metal plate on the back of the pads so that they fit snug, but would still slide in the bracket.  Has anyone else noticed this when doing their brakes?  Was filing them down a good idea?  Could this have caused the inboard pad not to make contact with the rotor and cause the rotor to rust?

The truck has about 32k miles on it, and the brakes I removed were the original equipment.
 
First of All :welcome:

Merely asking, not trying to make you upset. How many brake jobs have you done?

Are the caliper pistons moving freely? Did you rebuild or replace the calipers. You should never have to use a hammer/mallet to beat/persude the caliper pads on to the calipers

If your calipers are that tight, they are more than likely dragging,whicjh will cause HOT brakes, which may catch fire Premature wear, suckgas milage.

In a nutshell, I realize that funds may be tight, but if you are not well versed in doing brakes, I strongly suggest that you take it to a brake shop and let them take care of it for you. Since you, your family and everyone else on the road may be at risk
 
New pads come with new stainless hardware. did you use it ???
 
did you push caliper piston back into caliper?
 
1.  I have replaced the brake pads on serveral other (non Chevy) vehicles I have owned.

2.  Yes, the caliper bracket slid freely on the pins (fancy SS Torx head bolts).

3.  The caliper pistons went back into the caliper like normal with use a C clamp.  Did not replace/rebuild the calipers or remove the brake line from the caliper.

4.  My pads did NOT come with new SS hardware, but I did clean the S.S. clips that cover the caliper bracket where it contacts the pad to remove dirt/rust.  They looked almost new when I was done - thinking that dirt/rust from old pad was causing tight fit.

5.  The tight fit was between the pad and the caliper bracket - these are two seperate pieces (torx head bolts need to be removed to get them apart).  Since the pad was stuck (would not slide out just by pulling on it) in the part without the pistons in it, I didn't see the harm in using a rubber mallet.  The outboard pad fit ok, the inboard was the bigger issue.

6.  The I have not noticed any issues with hot/dragging brakes, but my theory is that since the inboard pad was so tight in the bracket that it would not move against the rotor (keep rotor clean) and was letting the outboard pad do most of the work.  I would think that the pistons could push alot harder on the pad than I could with a mallet, so I'm not sure if my theory makes sense.

Thoughts?

Have you had yours apart?  Were the pads tight in the bracket?
 
tedsred03 said:
4.? My pads did NOT come with new SS hardware, but I did clean the S.S. clips that cover the caliper bracket where it contacts the pad to remove dirt/rust.? They looked almost new when I was done - thinking that dirt/rust from old pad was causing tight fit.

That's strange because I have seen 2 different pads, Bendix and Monroe and they both came with new hardware. The bendix came with a big warning that said you MUST use new hardware.

I also applied generous amounts of synthetic brake lube to all contact points and don't recall brake job being anything but routine :love:
 
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