• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

How hard is to replace shocks?

410225

New Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
5
Location
Crystal, Minnesota
I am getting Monroe Reflex for both front and rear on my 2002 Avy 1500 4WD and wondering how hard is it to replace those shocks and is Monroe okay choice?  I don't intend to do any off roading.
Thanks.
 
Hi, I'm new here and have learned a lot of good info regarding my 04 avalanche. I decided to join today and saw your post.  It just so happens that I installed Monroe Reflex shocks on my Av this morning.  I'm not a trained mechanic but I do a lot of my own work, not so much to save money (which is always a good thing) but because I've had some incompetent "mechanics" work on my cars over the years.  Anyhow the job was pretty straight foward.  I didn't have a repair manual to help me out but what I did was jack up the corner I was working on and removed the wheel.  I used the jacking locations shown in the owners manual. Use a jack stand for safety.  You don't have to take the wheels off but I think it makes the job easier.  I drive in alot of snow so rust is a problem so I sprayed the nuts and bolts with liquid wrench. The front were real easy. I used a vise grip on the upper mount to hold the shock shaft from turning and a 15MM open end wrench to remove the nut.  I also used a second jack to keep the front end from dropping after the shock was removed.  There are several locations to place the jack.  The bottom bolt came out very easy and then I installed the new shock.  You won't need to use the vise grips on the install since the shaft won't turn. Also the new nut is 9/16.  The rear were a little different since when I cut the wire on the shock it expanded to full open position.  Maybe the wire was supposed to be cut after the shock was installed but I doubt it.  Anyhow I jacked the rear up according to the manual and removed the rear shock.  I installed the top of the shock first. The new shock was about 3 inches too long after expanding so I had to use a second jack to jack up the frame to fit the shock into the bottom mount.    It took a little work with a round punch to line up the bottom hole but it wasn't too bad.  I used lock-tite on the bolts.  Don't know if I need it but I like the stuff.  Again I used jack stands and was very careful, if you have doubts bring the Av to a shop.  You don't want the truck falling off a jack.  I'm sure there will be some mechanics saying that I did it all wrong but everything seems fine and I'm real happy with the way the truck rides.  The comfort is about the same if not better than the original shocks but what I really like is that the nose doesn't dive when braking and there is less body roll when cornering.  I hope this helps you. By the way my 04 Av has 58,800 miles and the left front shock was leaking at about 54,000 miles, thats why I made the change.  PS - I called Monroes tech line when I had a question and they were very helpful!  Good luck, k-rag.
 
:welcome: to CAFCNA, k-rag!

Thanks for sharing the experience. :)

 
Great first post!

Thanks for the info.  I am looking to do this sometime next month.

I appreciate everyone's willingness to be so helpful to others.
 
  i changed my front shocks the other day, and it was not too bad.  there is not much room on the driver side to get to the nut, but it can be done.
 
k-rag    :yourock:

Great first post!

All I can say is watch-it... this site (and modding) can become very addicting -- it's all good.  :woot:

Bad Dad
 
Welcome k-rag as said before Super 1st post..  I too am in need of shocks, so that will be a project coming up for me.. 
 
k-rag said:
Hi, I'm new here and have learned a lot of good info regarding my 04 avalanche. I decided to join today and saw your post.  It just so happens that I installed Monroe Reflex shocks on my Av this morning.  I'm not a trained mechanic but I do a lot of my own work, not so much to save money (which is always a good thing) but because I've had some incompetent "mechanics" work on my cars over the years.  Anyhow the job was pretty straight foward.  I didn't have a repair manual to help me out but what I did was jack up the corner I was working on and removed the wheel.  I used the jacking locations shown in the owners manual. Use a jack stand for safety.  You don't have to take the wheels off but I think it makes the job easier.  I drive in alot of snow so rust is a problem so I sprayed the nuts and bolts with liquid wrench. The front were real easy. I used a vise grip on the upper mount to hold the shock shaft from turning and a 15MM open end wrench to remove the nut.  I also used a second jack to keep the front end from dropping after the shock was removed.  There are several locations to place the jack.  The bottom bolt came out very easy and then I installed the new shock.  You won't need to use the vise grips on the install since the shaft won't turn. Also the new nut is 9/16.  The rear were a little different since when I cut the wire on the shock it expanded to full open position.  Maybe the wire was supposed to be cut after the shock was installed but I doubt it.  Anyhow I jacked the rear up according to the manual and removed the rear shock.  I installed the top of the shock first. The new shock was about 3 inches too long after expanding so I had to use a second jack to jack up the frame to fit the shock into the bottom mount.    It took a little work with a round punch to line up the bottom hole but it wasn't too bad.  I used lock-tite on the bolts.  Don't know if I need it but I like the stuff.  Again I used jack stands and was very careful, if you have doubts bring the Av to a shop.  You don't want the truck falling off a jack.  I'm sure there will be some mechanics saying that I did it all wrong but everything seems fine and I'm real happy with the way the truck rides.  The comfort is about the same if not better than the original shocks but what I really like is that the nose doesn't dive when braking and there is less body roll when cornering.  I hope this helps you. By the way my 04 Av has 58,800 miles and the left front shock was leaking at about 54,000 miles, thats why I made the change.  PS - I called Monroes tech line when I had a question and they were very helpful!  Good luck, k-rag.

:welcome: Great post!!! Just the info I have been looking for !!! :B:
 
I just ordered some takeoff shocks for $60 including the shipping.

I was getting new tires and the shop pointed out that the rear was leaking.
They quoted me $550 for all 4! Yikes.

Sounded fishy to me, so I came home and did some research. It looks to me like if you have jack stands, put one side of on the jack stands, then hold up the axl with a regular jack to stop it from dropping, the rest is getting the bolts off.

I'm not too mechanical, but I'm going to try it myself.

Jay
 
The rears are pretty simple the fronts are a bit harder, should be a great first car repair for you JayAv.  (y)
 
MS03 2500 said:
The rears are pretty simple the fronts are a bit harder, should be a great first car repair for you JayAv.  (y)
so what you are saying is i did mine backwards  :laugh: i replaced my fronts first because...welll they were in desperate need put the rears in the garage as i have been not really intimidated but don't want it to take forever  :E:
 
Hi,

I did the front this afternoon. I'd say they are easier than the rear.

One thing that I noted is that I used 2 jacks. I used one to left the truck - and used jack stands.

I had a smaller floor jack to move the axel as needed to adjust for the shock install - mainly to get the holes aligned to put in the bolts. At one point I had to lower the truck a bit because the smaller jack was extended to its full height. This pushed the axle up just a little bit to align the holes of the shock and truck.

Jay
 
hello,

Front shock
if i can purpose you a great shock, try this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-186643/overview/year/2002/make/chevrolet/model/avalanche-1500

It's night and day to compare with bilstein stock, 2.5" longer than the other model, the advantage is perfect for a little lift

before remove the old, applied removal rust spray on bolt upper an under( what do you name in english this spray?) and take a ratchet wrench, more easy for the upper bolt. a grip clamp help you when the bolt is to rusted, the wrench on the bolt and the clamp on the chrome part

The difficult with the 5100 is the hole allignement but if you have strong arm you can do it or take a friend to help you  (y)
You don't regret it
Good job
 
Back
Top