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Allison 1000?

good question... i'm sure someone on here would know...



on a side note though...  :welcome:
 
The Allison seems to be made for the diesel in a Silverado.

The Allison will not fit the Avalanche Frame rails nor will fit inside the transmission tunnel.

Sorry I could not find the answer about the 5.3 bolt up. But I sure you can find a adapter or a special bell housing.
 
shadow03 said:
if anything i'm looking for a trans that can hold decent power (500-600HP) and more gears.? if one exists.

A well built 4L65 or a modestly built 4L80 can handle that level.

 
2003-2006 GM truck motors 5.3L, 6.0L, 8.1L and 6.6 Duramax all have the same LS Motor Bell housing Bolt pattern... Photos attached below of a 4L60 and a 6.6 Daramax for reference...

The Flywheel/Flexplate?s from the 5.3L and 6.0L are interchangeable, the 8.1L is not and neither is the Diesel. So, you should be able to bolt the Allison 1000 up to the 5.3L with out a problem but, you will need an adapted Flexplate for the Torque Converter.

The other issue you will have the Allison will probably be tuning, not sure if the stock 5.3L PCM can be retuned for that trans? Check with Allan at Nelson Performance, he should know the answer to that.

If you have a 4x4 the Transfer Case will bolt up to all GM transmission of that year range but, the Input shaft Spline count changes for each transmission. This input shaft on the Transfer Case can be swapped out on the to match what you need, the AutoTrac NP246 and the NP261 and NP163 all use the same input shaft with different Spline counts.

4L60 ? 27 Spline
4L80 ? 32 Spline
Allison 1000 ?I think it?s 29 Spline (based on quick research)

You WILL need a 3inch Body lift to clear the Allison 1000 because the 2500 and 3500 trucks actually have a 2inch body lift on them from the factory for this reason, I used to have the GM Part Numbers for those parts somewhere. But, those parts are only useable on the Silverado 2500-3500 pick ups.



Always remember this in the world of customizing you ride:
Just because no one has done something before, doesn?t mean it can?t be done.
 

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Dragging back a 5 year old post...

I'm building a mildly warmed over LQ4 to replace the LM7 in my '05 now.  I want to go with a 6 speed.  Originally intending to look at a 6L80 swap, I've found that controlling the transmission becomes an issue.

Then I came across your post, Lord Aries, of your s6-650 swap (would love to see a video of that in action!) and made me think about the Allison 1000.

That said, how is the Allison 1000 normally controlled?  My bone stock 4x4 '05 Avy wouldn't mind a 3" body lift ;)
 
Old thread indeed...

Unfortunatly LordAries has moved over to the JEEP side (traitor!) of vehicle owning.  He has sold his avalanche and as far as I can tell does not check these boards anymore.  The only other person on here with a 6spd is ms38w.  He too has the ZF S6-650 manual 6spd transmission.  I have absolutly no idea on the allison, but wish you the best of luck figuring it all out.  That said however, I have read that many many rock crawlers and sled pullers have had success with a beefed 4L80.  If your nuts over more gears get a splitter/GV unit and call it an 8 speeder!  No computer woes...  Just my 0.02  worth what you paid for it  (y)
 
Whether you go Allison or the ZF manual, you will either need a 3" lift or cut the trans tunnel (I cut my tunnel and modified my cross member) to get these big transmissions to fit.  Either way, a tune will be necessary. 
 
ms38w, do you have a build thread anywhere?  More details perhaps on your ZF swap?

The wife has given me the go-ahead on a 3" body lift, ZF 6 speed, and a mild LQ9 swap.  I've got HP Tuners already, so tuning is no issue for me.

I will admit, I would PREFER a 6 speed automatic, but I will not turn away from a 6 speed manual.

Appreciate any and all information!
 
Doward, click the little globe under my scorpion avitar...it is my website for my Avalanche build.  There are pictures and links.  If you want to see anything specific that isn't there, PM me and I'll go through my archive of photos and see if I have what you are looking for or will take the picture if I don't have it already.  I will be more than happy to answer any/all questions to help out.  This is a HUGE undertaking, and no one should have to go it alone.  It will get more expensive than you plan.
 
Two main questions - were you able to keep the auto 4wd feature, and how's your gas mileage?
 
  I could have kept the auto 4wd; however, I swapped the T-case for one from a 1-ton Silverado, which does not have auto 4wd (wish I had gone with a manual T-case).  You have to change the spline gear if you keep your T-case (at least with the ZF 6-speed manual, don't know about the Allison).

  My gas mileage is horrendous...10 MPG whether I drive nice or like I stole it.  Naturally I choose to drive it like I stole it  >:D  .  That being said, it's not the fault of the transmission or my choice of gears.  I have some tuning issues with the motor yet and perhaps a vacuum leak I have been battling.  My 6.0L has been heavily reworked (have you seen my web site?), so it's hard to say where my MPG SHOULD be.  I wasn't all that concerned about it, but was told by my builder it should get mid to high teens...but he lied about a lot of things. 
 
Yeah, I just did and DAMN man, sorry about your troubles :(

A couple notes:

1) You should have gone twin-screw (Whipple or the like) from the get go if you were wanting big power from a 6.0L, especially in a heavy truck like the Avalanche :(

2) Where are you located?  I'd be happy to give you a hand on your tune (about 10 years experience tuning everything from carbs to DI)

3) I like the auto 4WD feature... hehe, I'll probably work to keep it.

My own goals: 16 city, 20+ highway, average.  Starting from a 4wd (non-Z71) 3.42 equipped '05 WBH Avy.

I'm thinking a 6.0L, something around 220/228 duration @ 0.050" and 0.550" - 0.575" lift on a 114 LSA would make for a good, strong 6.0L, heavy on the torque, but with proper tuning would still run relatively easy on the gas when cruising.
 
Yeah.  Like I said on my website, I actually wanted a 427.  He talked me out of it because he had a 6.0L that would be cheaper.  I wanted a twin screw, but he told me the 6.0L was already prepped for a turbo (all lies).  He charged me way too much for the 6.0L, but I thought I was paying for the "prepped for turbo" engine.

I live about 20 miles south of Roanoke,VA on top of the mountain.  My Av is tuned with HPTuners...do you know how to use it?  It's a PITA, as there are no real instructions...just tech boards that people don't respond to.

My cam is a LSE-GT2-3  .573" intake lift/ .580 exhaust duration@ .006"  254I/281E duration @ .050 207I/220E LSA 118.5
(at least this is what the builder tells me he put in it).This cam is said to make the engine seem very stock up to about 3200 RPM, then really open up.

9.5:1 compression (figured using one of those on line calculators based on the dimensions I have).  Compression was intentionally kept down because of the forced induction.


60# Hi-impedance Injectors (I checked the numbers on the injectors and researched them).

I have the 3.42 gears, in hopes to combat MPG.  I am glad I didn't go with 3.73 or 4.10, because 1st gear and 2nd gear would have been useless.
 
Yep, HPTuners is nice, works well, but you're right - VERY steep learning curve.

What are you using for data collection?  Wideband O2 + EGT is usually my preferred method...

207/220 @ 0.050"?  That's too far of a split on a 6.0L.  I would have recommended something like a 212/218 if you really wanted to run that tame - and yes, that is a very tame cam in a 6.0L!  Lift is good, and your LSA is waaay wide.  Did you install the cam straight up?  I'd suggest ~4 degrees retarded if possible...

You've got an engine that's serious grunt down low, and is mismatched to your transmission ratios (as you're finding out, lol - you probably should be on a set of 3.08s or 3.23s, and I don't believe either of those are available for our running gears).

Personally, I'd decide exactly what kind of powerband you want from your Avy, and get your current parts better matched before tackling the tuning :(
 
  It's actually a 6.7L...bored/stroked (the donor was a 6.0L iron block from an '05 GTO).  I'm running a wideband O2, but it has a short in it and I haven't been able to get good readings consistantly.  If I can find the exact location of the short I'll fix it.  Couldn't I just read the EGT from HPTuners?
  I wanted the power as low as possible, specifically for towing, but some high end would be nice as well. I don't generally run above 2500 RPM, unless I'm looking for trouble  >:D  .  I have the HPTuners with the stand alone datalogging, but don't think it works.  Some versions didn't have the software, even though the unit is physically capable.  Even the ones that are supposed to have stand alone logging don't always work.  Just another case of paying for something and the company not comming through on their end.  Everyone that bought the version with stand alone data logging was misinformed, and there is suppose to be a "fix" in the future  :rolleyes: , yeah, right.  2 years later, no fix.  I don't mind having to swap cams if that's what it will take to make it come alive.  I'm disappointed in the power available for what the motor is capable of.
 
Ugh, you have ENTIRELY too little cam for that 6.7L!!

What's your current bore and stroke, and which heads (and valve sizing)?

'05 GTO should be an aluminum LS2, not an iron block.  The iron block 6.0Ls were used in trucks - LQ4 / LQ9 series.

There are 2 versions of HP Tuners - do you have a green block on the side of your HP Tuner hardware controller?  That's the MPVI pro interface, and it's used for 0-5v inputs.  Which means your wideband O2 MUST support a 0-5v output in order for HP Tuners to correctly read it.

Which WB02 are you running?

As for EGT, you need a pyrometer for that :)  HP Tuners can't read EGTs, unless there's a pyrometer in the stock setup I don't know about?
 
4.020" bore, 4.00" stroke, 6.125" connecting rods.

73cc cylinder head combustion chamber...ported.
.054" head gasket thickness.
4.02" - 12cc piston dish.
.007"piston/deck clearance.
1.105" piston compression height.
130# seat pressure,single beehive springs.
Titanium retainers.
LS6 valves.

I was told it came from the GTO, but upon my research of the engine (by the number stamped on the block) it is either an LQ4 or LQ9.  It originally had a car intake manifold.  Not sure what other vehicle used this setup.  I thought I found somewhere that some early production '05 GTO's had an iron block...just after switching from the 350 to the 6.0L.

I do have the MPVI Pro and I have it wired to my wideband O2...PLX Devices .  As far as the EGT's, I think I was thinking of the ECT reading...

I know the builder wanted to go with a mild cam for this setup...not sure why, I trusted he knew what he was doing and I don't know how to read a cam and what the numbers mean for an engine.  Also, as the builder has mislead me from the beginning, he might also have used a different cam than what he tells me.  I researched the cam, and it claims to be good for all sorts of applications, and really make a difference on forced induction, which is how the motor was built, but I removed the turbos and rebuilt the exhaust.  I have been wondering about the cam and heads myself for some time now...wondering if they were the right choice.  I had even posted a thread awhile back about engine dimensions and what the ideal combination was,based on knowing certain things (if you have x,y,b...what should z be?).  I didn't get any takers on the question...none with any knowledge specifically...just general stuff that didn't help.  Even "professional" engine builders couldn't give an exact answer.

I have installed Walbro 255 LPH fuel pumps, but all the fuel lines are stock '02 Avalanche...not sure if the fuel rail is Avalanche or from the donor 6.0L motor.

Where'd you say you were from anyway?  I could sure use a local buddy to work on cars with.  Kinda isolated up here on the mountain, and not many CAFCNA members in the region.
 
I'm down in Florida (North Central, around Gainesville area.

A LOT of people think that going with a 'mild' cam is good for FI, and generally, that's true.  Fact is, any cam will make power with FI - the engine system is just that, a system.  You want to match ALL the components together!  Many 'builders' go with a mild cam, because it's easier to tune, that's all.

In your case, you don't have a 'mild' cam, you've got a downright anemic cam!

General rule of thumb is that the larger the displacement, the more mild a given set of cam specs will act.  A 207/220 cam on a 118.5 LSA would be mild in a 5.3L, nevermind a 6.7L!

With a 4" stroke, you have nothing to worry about regarding low end torque, LOL.  Decide where you want your powerband to be, and work from there.

I'm not familiar with PLX Devices, although the website shows they have a WBO2 0-5v output, so that's what you want run to the MPVI Pro.  Are you saying that you are getting intermittent readings?  I'll see if I can track down a diagram and find out exactly which wire you need.

I use a Zeitronix ZT-2 (http://www.zeitronix.com) that I've had now.. 7-8 years?  She's been flawless over many vehicles ;)

What gears and tires are you running?  Still running the S6-650, right?  Average highway cruising speed?

 
I think the short in my PLX is between the little computer and the output gauge.  It freezes up, but if I jiggle the wire it starts reading again.  Not sure if the wire itself is bad or if it's in the male part of the plug or the female part where it plugs into the computer.  This seems to be the most common complaint about the device.  PLX has looked at mine 3 times and tell me it works fine.  Then they wanted to sell me another one, and I said "why would I buy another one if this one is fine?"...no response from them.  Then I discovered it was a short, and figured I can fix it myself.

Any stroker motor should give me lots of low end, especially how this one was designed to run.  As I said, I rarely run above 2500 RPM for any extended period of time, unless I'm getting a little wild.  Basic highway speeds...who wants to run a 6000# + truck over 100 MPH?  Well...I tried, but that's as fast as she'll go  :E:  .  Maybe in the future...after some suspension and brake mod's to make it safer at higher speeds.  I really want an old school feel to it...like a '68 GTO or '67 Camaro...'72 Chevelle...you get the idea.  I want a nasty launch, but don't need a 10 second quarter mile truck.  I need it for towing a 6000# camper, so it needs to be reliable (it's not reliable now...sometimes it dies when I pull up to a stop sign, but fires right back up).  My power band should probably be from around 1500 up to 4000 RPM's .  Of course, a wider range would be nice, but for my purpose that would more than suffice.

I do still run the ZF s-650 6 speed manual.  Indestructible transmission, but a bit challenging to drive...shifting is quirky to say the least...takes some getting used to. 

I run 3.42 gears front and rear.  In the winter months I run a stock size winter tire on basic stamped steel rims (think a 2500 Chevy work truck).  In the summer I run heavy, wide rims and rubber...11 x 20 rims with Toyo Proxy ST2's...don't know the tire size off hand, but something like 305/50/20.
 
With your 32.8" diameter tires, it's equivalent to approximately a 3.23 ratio on the stock tires.

Ok, so we have the following:

BONE STOCK (30.6" tire, 3.42s, 4L60e)
Gear multiplication in 1st: 10.47
RPM @ 70mph in OD: ~1850rpm

YOUR SETUP (32.8" tire, 3.42s, s6-650)
Gear multiplication in 1st: 18.70
Gear multiplication in 2nd: 10.69
RPM @ 70mph in OD: ~1760rpm

Ok, now you say you want maximum towing power.  For a gasoline engine, I like to spin 2200-2500rpm when towing.  Let's see what 5th gear on your S6-650 nets us:

RPM @ 70mph in 5th: ~2450rpm - perfect!

Ok, so based on a 'towing' premise, we want to maximize torque around 2500rpm.  In that case, I'd suggest something around a 220/230 @ 0.050", 0.575" lift cam.  With good flowing heads and headers, I'd expect you to have around 500 ft-lbs of torque on tap while towing.

If you want more, I'd add a twin-screw to the setup, and call it a day.  You'd have a MONSTER from idle to ~5000rpm!  Best of all?  Dead reliable.

Here's the cam I'd run:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-190976-12/

In your 6.7L, I'd expect a 1000-5300rpm range.  Should maximize your torque for towing.
 
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