I hit between the wheel studs and I hit from behind, spinning it as I went. The only thing I didn't do is hit it from the side (swinging towards the cooling vanes)
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Episodes of a rust belt (hack) mechanic
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2004Slickside
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Don't do that! (although it's not going to hurt a rotor you intend to replace). If you're replacing it, take a good swing at the edge of the outer diameter - but from the side on the clamping surface. Really make it ring! Then turn it 180 and hit it again until it comes loose!
MS03 2500
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Some people say this works
I can't believe I posted a utube video.
I can't believe I posted a utube video.
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Nice. Thanks for the video. I like that idea. It's kind of like using a longer screw in the securing hole which I've done before.
I wasn't planning on hitting it from the vanes, just saying that's the one area I didn't hit. At this point, it's just at going to stay there until I buy a hub assembly. It will come off with the hub.
I wasn't planning on hitting it from the vanes, just saying that's the one area I didn't hit. At this point, it's just at going to stay there until I buy a hub assembly. It will come off with the hub.
The pads on the front have a bit of life. The driver rear is shot due to a sticking caliper. I threw on the cheapest pads I could find on the rear as I acquire parts for a full overhaul over the next couple months. The front wheel bearing sounds a bit crunchy when I spin it and likely needs replaced. At this point, that blasted rotor will just come off with the hub. The heat will just ensure I fry the bearing anyway which will render the same result. I just need to get to late March/early April with limited driving and then I can go at it full bore.
As long as I have it ready to move my daughter in early to mid May I should be good. I may do some videos of my shenanigans as I go along if time permits.
If time permits, I may just for kicks try the method @MS03 2500 posted up.
Man, my parking brake is like 75% of the parking brakes in these things. It can't hold an ant.
Oh, now I see your talking about my initial post. That's the front rotor so no parking brake issue. I too have struggled to get a rear rotor/drum off while the parking brake was engaged - on a vehicle whose parking brake actually worked.
CountyLanche
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CarMech1969 knows of what he speaks here in the Salt Belt. You’re gonna need the hot wrench if you hope to get all these seized parts apart without breakage. In my experience, propane torch won’t give you the necessary directed heat. My most recent incident was with Energy Suspension sway bar bushings- salt and GM cutting corners resulted in burning acetylene 
“Sometimes”, if you apply multiple applications a few days in advance, home brew penetrant works: 50:50 ATF/acetone. Sometimes...
“Sometimes”, if you apply multiple applications a few days in advance, home brew penetrant works: 50:50 ATF/acetone. Sometimes...
I got myself a Bolt Buster which @EXT4ME told me about. It has a lead that I'll be able to loop around the brake line bolt which makes more comfortable than hitting that area with flame.CarMech1969 knows of what he speaks here in the Salt Belt. You’re gonna need the hot wrench if you hope to get all these seized parts apart without breakage. In my experience, propane torch won’t give you the necessary directed heat. My most recent incident was with Energy Suspension sway bar bushings- salt and GM cutting corners resulted in burning acetylene
“Sometimes”, if you apply multiple applications a few days in advance, home brew penetrant works: 50:50 ATF/acetone. Sometimes...
Manufacturer video
Real World video (though I would use a six point socket vs. 12 point box end)
Thanks, I'll try but I suspect what comes out of my mouth while working on it won't make it through the censors.Be sure to get some video.
I'm interested in how your experience goes.
Best of luck.
I should be ordering some more parts within the next couple days. Unfortunately the CV axle I was contemplating is no longer up at Rock Auto so I may do the rears now, which has the sticking caliper, and hold off on the fronts to see if the axle comes in. Just trying my best to minimize shipping.
CarMech1969
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An old timer's trick that is known to work very well.
I have as yet to try it out.
A lot of people say WD-40 is crap, but it's worked really well for me. Especially in conjunction with heat.
And the saga continues. I want to try to at least slow the rot until I save enough to have it done right which will be a couple years. Since I have the backend apart for the brakes and shocks I decided to hit it with a wire wheel and pressure washer and then Rust Reformer. I know I didn't get it clean enough but I'm hitting a time crunch. I think I need to go the POR 15 route as I already used six cans of rust reformer and barely making a dent. Allow me to take you on a frightening photo journey.
Me this evening
The hole behind the cladding and fender liner
Various scary shots of the underside
The crud on the floor after pressure washing
Well, gotta replace that ground strap the pressure washer destroyed
Not great but better
Me this evening
The hole behind the cladding and fender liner
Various scary shots of the underside
The crud on the floor after pressure washing
Well, gotta replace that ground strap the pressure washer destroyed
Not great but better
Add a new spare tire hoist to list of parts. Bolt Buster to the rescue again on getting that out. I didn't even need penetrating oil.
I need to finally get to the rear brakes including backing plates and parking brakes this week so I can move my daughter into her apartment Saturday. Also putting on Rancho 9000's while I'm it. Later in the spring/summer I'll do the whole front end and hit as much as I can with POR15 and then Fluid Film or Corrosion Free in the late summer or autumn. This is going to be a long term project until I can redo the whole thing. OIY.
I need to finally get to the rear brakes including backing plates and parking brakes this week so I can move my daughter into her apartment Saturday. Also putting on Rancho 9000's while I'm it. Later in the spring/summer I'll do the whole front end and hit as much as I can with POR15 and then Fluid Film or Corrosion Free in the late summer or autumn. This is going to be a long term project until I can redo the whole thing. OIY.
ygmn
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Man.... I would have given up a while ago... so good for you and CHEERS...
Keep it up... save her from the cancer.
Keep it up... save her from the cancer.
I'm a glutton for punishment.
I gave up on my '91 S-10 Balzer back in 2007 and have regretted it ever since. I found a local shop at the local Cavalcade of Customs a couple years ago that specializes in restoration and resto-mods. They do everything from show cars that live in a plastic bubble inside an environmentally controlled garage to basic rehabbing what would be a daily driver, and everything in between. It won't be cheap but it certainly won't cost as much as they're charging for new trucks, which aren't nearly as versatile as the Avalanche.
EXT4ME
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Kudos to you for your efforts.
I'm sure you are adding years to your truck's life.
Just goes to show that a difference in latitude makes a real difference in attitude.
That much rust would either send a vehicle to the crusher or put on a north bound car transport, around here.
Keep up the good work.
I'm sure you are adding years to your truck's life.
Just goes to show that a difference in latitude makes a real difference in attitude.
That much rust would either send a vehicle to the crusher or put on a north bound car transport, around here.
Keep up the good work.
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I think it's worth the effort because there is nothing that can replace it. I'm like you lost my Bonneville when the subframe mounts rusted though, but if I ever find another one in decent shape I'd give it another shot.
Same. Every now and then I look around to see if I can find one similar to mine. It was my first new vehicle. Despite the body rot, you couldn't kill this thing. That 4.3 was indestructible. I had it probably three feet in the air jumping motorcycle moguls while off roading. I sold it around ~215,000 and, despite all that, it still had the original engine and transmission. These are pictures I took when I listed it for sale. I still miss those seats. They were so much more comfortable than what I have in the Avy.
