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“Rustoration “

gpgab97

Full Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2021
Messages
32
Location
Philadelphia PA
So I’ve been trying to get my 05 back in good shape for this winter and hopefully several more. New rear calipers, brake pads, brake lines and rear diff has been cleaned and refilled with a new cover and gasket. Snow tires for the rear axle and front discs , pads and calipers are waiting. All the while I have been fighting with a pesky bank 1 knock sensor code. I’ve tried replacing the sensors and the light will not go away. I’ve since also changed plugs and 02 sensors forward of the cats. The sensors OHM out about 100-99k ohms so they were installed correctly (ac delcos). What do I have to look at next and where? Is there a specific ground or circuit that might hold the answer? I have plenty of time to do the repair and diagnostics if needed. Tearing out all the front brake lines soon and installing a new master cylinder so it isn’t moving .
 
Hey, gpg. Check the condition of the wires under side.
Make sure theres no broken or exposed from rubbing.
Loose connections or broken. They can get brittle in time.
I think these might turn on a check engine light.
When I first got my Av in April, i could hear a light tap tap tap tap, with my window open. It sounded in time with the driveshaft. I got under and found a small harness of wires hanging next to the knuckle of the front shaft. Lucky they were still good and also lucky it didn't catch and get ripped right out.
Good luck on your Rustoration
 
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What code do you get? There are 4 to 5 different codes relating to each O2 sensor and it is hard to say what you need without a code. For example if it says “Heated oxygen sensor switch stuck lean (sorry can’t remember the code number) that could be a crack in a manifold, damaged sensor, shorted to power signal wire, bad manifold gaskets, just to name a few causes for that condition. If the code calls out the heater circuit, it coul be as simple as a fuse. We just can’t help with out the codes to guide us.
 
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What code do you get? There are 4 to 5 different codes relating to each O2 sensor and it is hard to say what you need without a code. For example if it says “Heated oxygen sensor switch stuck lean (sorry can’t remember the code number) that could be a crack in a manifold, damaged sensor, shorted to power signal wire, bad manifold gaskets, just to name a few causes for that condition. If the code calls out the heater circuit, it coul be as simple as a fuse. We just can’t help with out the codes to guide us.
It was bank 1 O2 upstream. Still haven’t fixed it . The exact code was and still is P0153 & P0053. That has nothing to do with my quest to solve the knock issues though. I plan to simply relocate them on the cylinder heads and continue running high octane. The last service it had was a wix filter and 6 quarts of pennzoil. Ran great with no detectable knock on start .
 
Hey, gpg. Check the condition of the wires under side.
Make sure theres no broken or exposed from rubbing.
Loose connections or broken. They can get brittle in time.
I think these might turn on a check engine light.
When I first got my Av in April, i could hear a light tap tap tap tap, with my window open. It sounded in time with the driveshaft. I got under and found a small harness of wires hanging next to the knuckle of the front shaft. Lucky they were still good and also lucky it didn't catch and get ripped right out.
Good luck on your Rustoration
My tap is definitely lifter related. I’ve been reworking the chassis lights and upgrading the the entire chassis itself. New factory exhaust is also on now. Like I mentioned to the other poster, I have had great luck simply changing fuels and oil change regimen . I do plan to attack the lifters but currently replacing all forward brake lines caliper and discs .
 
If the tap tap you hear are right at startup and the sound goes away after a few seconds, you could have something known as piston slap. It is very common on short skirt pistons… just like you find in the LS family of engines. GM “fixed” this issue in the 2007+ engines by adding a couple mm to the bottom of the pistons. It will sound just like a lifter tick but it won’t stick around. Another thing that LS engines like to do that sounds just like a lifter tick but isnt is break an exhaust bolt at the ends of the manifolds. This will cause a slight exhaust leak that sounds like a lifter as well… just a tick tick that changes with RPM. Not sure exactly why just the end bolts break, but it’s really common.
 
If the tap tap you hear are right at startup and the sound goes away after a few seconds, you could have something known as piston slap. It is very common on short skirt pistons… just like you find in the LS family of engines. GM “fixed” this issue in the 2007+ engines by adding a couple mm to the bottom of the pistons. It will sound just like a lifter tick but it won’t stick around. Another thing that LS engines like to do that sounds just like a lifter tick but isnt is break an exhaust bolt at the ends of the manifolds. This will cause a slight exhaust leak that sounds like a lifter as well… just a tick tick that changes with RPM. Not sure exactly why just the end bolts break, but it’s really common.
I asked the local engine builder to take a listen and he told me it’s definitely coming from above the head. I’m aware of piston slap in some motors with seized rings and such . I haven’t been able to get the truck to the shop yet for services however. Just a quick trip to the speed shop. My wife accidentally filled the tank with grocery reward points and 89. The tick came back the next day lol. Like I mentioned earlier, I’ll continue to run the good go juice when I can and update when the tear down starts.
 
Just an update. The truck fuel filter was so rotted out it actually came out of it’s lock ring and started pumping gas into the street on my way home a few weeks ago. Got that fixed for 900, then the next day a peice of debris from construction got stuck between my brand new rear calipers and the rim on the passenger rear. I heard an awful grinding and then pssssssssssssss. The rim had to be replaced and I had all the front brakes completely replaced with drilled and slotted rotors and upgraded calipers . All the front lines are now replaced as well. Leaky hydro boost is up next.
 
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