• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

'13 with 140K miles - Po15D - Ho2S Delayed Response Lean to Rich Bank 2 Sensor 1

N

nhhandyman

Full Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
35
Got myself a code reader - may return it because it wasn't the version I thought - Anyway - After checking the wiring - I'm going to assume this is an O2 sensor - however - which is "bank 2 sensor 1" - Left/right/forward or rear O2 sensor?
the best I could find with google is 'Bank 2 specifies the bank of the engine which does not contain the #1 cylinder.'
I'm hoping to only replace one - just not sure which one.

TIA
 
nhhandyman said:
Got myself a code reader - may return it because it wasn't the version I thought - Anyway - After checking the wiring - I'm going to assume this is an O2 sensor - however - which is "bank 2 sensor 1" - Left/right/forward or rear O2 sensor?
the best I could find with google is 'Bank 2 specifies the bank of the engine which does not contain the #1 cylinder.'
I'm hoping to only replace one - just not sure which one.

TIA
Click to expand...
Bank 2 is the right side while sitting behind the steering wheel, sensor one is the o2 sensor before the cat.
 
I'm dealing with basically the same code except mine is "B" instead of "D." We replaced the O2 sensor twice, once aftermarket and the last time OEM. Cleaned the cats, fuel injectors, no exhaust leaks, wiring tests out fine - we've done everything but call the pope.

When we do a freeze frame all components are fine. Something has to be blipping temporarily to throw the code and no one can figure it out. It doesn't seem to be very detrimental, my gas mileage and power are fine it's just a matter of passing emissions with a CIL and some of the creature comforts such as remote start won't work if there is a CIL.

I cleared mine earlier in Dec and it came back within the day as usual and then one day it just went away on it's own. I ran my ODBII and it was gone from Current, Pending and Permanent. I was ecstatic but it only lasted about three days.

If you figure something out PLEASE post your findings.
 
What year and motor are we talking about DickensCPA? Which o2 sensor did you replace, downstream bank 1?

Chart all 4 o2 sensors & compare, you might have catalytic converter issues. Freeze frames will not cut it for this one. Also, what do the long term fuel trims (LTFT) look like on each bank? Did this start after getting fuel somewhere?

And for my curiosity, please define 'cleaned the cats'. Did you use a product or the italian tune up or what?
 
Last edited:
I've done the reset after replacing the bank 2 sensor 1 - got through NH inspection after driving 200 or so miles.

I'll report back if it pops back on (or maybe replace sensor 2 - I figure that has to be cheaper than doing the cat itself).
 
I've done about 300 miles with the new O2 installed - code has not come back.

Onto replacing all four shocks....
 
BainMan said:
What year and motor are we talking about DickensCPA? Which o2 sensor did you replace, downstream bank 1?

Chart all 4 o2 sensors & compare, you might have catalytic converter issues. Freeze frames will not cut it for this one. Also, what do the long term fuel trims (LTFT) look like on each bank? Did this start after getting fuel somewhere?

And for my curiosity, please define 'cleaned the cats'. Did you use a product or the italian tune up or what?
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay in responding, tax season has kicked off for me and it's spotty to get free time for internet fun. LOL!

My code is for the same sensor as yours just the opposite side. I'm bank 1 and you're bank 2.

All I have for LTFT is freeze frames unfortunately. For Freeze Frame my LTFT B1 has read from -5.5% -->-9.4%. My LTFT B2 -7.8% -->-17.2%. It didn't just come up after a refuel. I bought the truck 11/27/20 and it came on less than a mile from the dealership. I took it back to the dealer the next morning and the tech said the O2 sensor looked fairly new, like 6 mos old or less but it was a cheapie. They replaced it with an OEM. Code came back on on the way home.

My O2 sensors are always fairly consistent:
O2S B1 S1 .68V
O2S B1 S2 .93V
O2S B2 S1 .90V
O2S B2 S2 .94V

Dealership gave me a loaner Thursday of last week so they they've had my Avy four days as I write this but I know they didn't get on it until today because I have Kahu and it hadn't been started and moved since I dropped it off four days ago. Looks like they are working on it today.

As far as "clean the cats" we used cataclean, but it didn't help.

oh, mine is a 2013 LTZ 5.3
 
DickensCPA said:
Sorry for the delay in responding, tax season has kicked off for me and it's spotty to get free time for internet fun. LOL!

My code is for the same sensor as yours just the opposite side. I'm bank 1 and you're bank 2.

All I have for LTFT is freeze frames unfortunately. For Freeze Frame my LTFT B1 has read from -5.5% -->-9.4%. My LTFT B2 -7.8% -->-17.2%. It didn't just come up after a refuel. I bought the truck 11/27/20 and it came on less than a mile from the dealership. I took it back to the dealer the next morning and the tech said the O2 sensor looked fairly new, like 6 mos old or less but it was a cheapie. They replaced it with an OEM. Code came back on on the way home.

My O2 sensors are always fairly consistent:
O2S B1 S1 .68V
O2S B1 S2 .93V
O2S B2 S1 .90V
O2S B2 S2 .94V

Dealership gave me a loaner Thursday of last week so they they've had my Avy four days as I write this but I know they didn't get on it until today because I have Kahu and it hadn't been started and moved since I dropped it off four days ago. Looks like they are working on it today.

As far as "clean the cats" we used cataclean, but it didn't help.

oh, mine is a 2013 LTZ 5.3
Click to expand...
freeze frames for long term fuel trims is fine. Negative fuel trims mean you are running rich and the computer is compensating by leaning out the fuel trim. Your bank 2 is close to setting a code on its own, I think that may be at plus or minus 20%.

It's the 02 sensor readings that must be graphed to be useful to test a catalytic converter. Any way to log these to a file or display as a graph in the program? The static readings do not cut it for this test unfortunately.

I'm suspect of the catalytic converter still until it can be ruled out. Maybe a friend has a scantool that will graph the o2 sensors you can borrow? Not sure if the parts store code scanner will work, but maybe that an option too. Also, there are fairly cheap options on Amazon as well, $20 on the cheap end for a wifi or bluetooth OBD2 scan tool.

Edit, oh its at the dealership. Is the work on their dime? Wish you luck!


Possible causes of RICH fuel mixtures include:​

Leaky fuel injector

Excessive fuel pressure due to bad fuel pressure regulator or restricted fuel return line

Extremely dirty air filter or restrictions in air intake system

Exhaust restrictions (clogged converter, crushed exhaust pipe or plugged muffler)

Bad O2 sensor (output shorted to voltage so it reads RICH all the time)
 
Last edited:
BainMan said:
freeze frames for long term fuel trims is fine. Negative fuel trims mean you are running rich and the computer is compensating by leaning out the fuel trim. Your bank 2 is close to setting a code on its own, I think that may be at plus or minus 20%.

It's the 02 sensor readings that must be graphed to be useful to test a catalytic converter. Any way to log these to a file or display as a graph in the program? The static readings do not cut it for this test unfortunately.

I'm suspect of the catalytic converter still until it can be ruled out. Maybe a friend has a scantool that will graph the o2 sensors you can borrow? Not sure if the parts store code scanner will work, but maybe that an option too. Also, there are fairly cheap options on Amazon as well, $20 on the cheap end for a wifi or bluetooth OBD2 scan tool.

Edit, oh its at the dealership. Is the work on their dime? Wish you luck!


Possible causes of RICH fuel mixtures include:​

Leaky fuel injector

Excessive fuel pressure due to bad fuel pressure regulator or restricted fuel return line

Extremely dirty air filter or restrictions in air intake system

Exhaust restrictions (clogged converter, crushed exhaust pipe or plugged muffler)

Bad O2 sensor (output shorted to voltage so it reads RICH all the time)
Click to expand...
I have a scan tool that bluetooths with my iPad or iPhone it just won't give me real time while driving.

It is at the dealership and it's on their dime. I bought the Ext Warranty but I think they're handling this one purely on their dime so it doesn't look like they sold me an Ext Warranty without going thru their "$420 Inspection" if you know what I mean.
 
DickensCPA said:
I have a scan tool that bluetooths with my iPad or iPhone it just won't give me real time while driving.

It is at the dealership and it's on their dime. I bought the Ext Warranty but I think they're handling this one purely on their dime so it doesn't look like they sold me an Ext Warranty without going thru their "$420 Inspection" if you know what I mean.
Click to expand...
What app are you using? There should be some way to log data, even if it's to a .csv file that can be opened in Excel. I like the inCarDoc for a free app.
 
BainMan said:
What app are you using? There should be some way to log data, even if it's to a .csv file that can be opened in Excel. I like the inCarDoc for a free app.
Click to expand...
The app on my iphone is RepairSol2.

I'm supposed to pick my truck up today they said it's fixed, but I'm not sure what they've done yet.
 
I know one thing - I pick my truck up at 3PM CST today and I can't wait. They gave me a brand new vehicle as a loaner. It only had 24 miles on it and still has all the bar code stickers and window sticker, but it's a Jeep Cherokee Latitude. It has a 2.7 I4 engine. It rides smooth actually for such a little car. At 65mph it starts to peter out. Speed limit is 70 and everyone around you is doing 75-80.

I'm not exaggerating , I haven't been flipped off on the road in YEARS or at least I didn't see it. I have been flipped off MULTIPLE times a day since last Thursday. Last night my wife and one of our kids was coming home from martial arts class and we stopped and I got a chicken sandwich at Chik Fil A. Decided to whip over to the interstate to get home. Wasn't thinking. I only had about 2 1/2 miles to get to my exit and it took that whole span to hit 70 and then time to get off. I got flipped off three times.

It also has the Auto Stop that you have to remember to turn off each time you start it. If all Auto Stops behave like the system on this Jeep I can't help but think it's a serious hazard. There's quite a hesitation and a jerk when it re-starts and you can take off.
 
I got mine back yesterday afternoon. The service lady did tell me they replaced the O2 sensor again to be safe but when I got there she had left and I didn't get a print out of what they'd done. I meant to but kind forgot/kinda pissed and I'm in the middle of tax season and had to get back.

I spent most of my time with the finance guy trying to get another temp tag. I bought this Avy in Nov and had a second temp tag expire and was a little miffed I didn't have my tags yet. They're blaming County Clerk being behind and that may be true or not but they were the ones standing in front of me and I was venting.

The light did not come back on and I've got a touch over 50 miles. When I bought it and first time they had it in it came on before half way home.
 
200 miles now and no light. When I left the dealership I still had the Permanent Code but no current, after a drive cycle or two there’s no code at all. Fingers crossed that’s the end of that little saga.
 
DickensCPA said:
I'm dealing with basically the same code except mine is "B" instead of "D." We replaced the O2 sensor twice, once aftermarket and the last time OEM. Cleaned the cats, fuel injectors, no exhaust leaks, wiring tests out fine - we've done everything but call the pope.

When we do a freeze frame all components are fine. Something has to be blipping temporarily to throw the code and no one can figure it out. It doesn't seem to be very detrimental, my gas mileage and power are fine it's just a matter of passing emissions with a CIL and some of the creature comforts such as remote start won't work if there is a CIL.

I cleared mine earlier in Dec and it came back within the day as usual and then one day it just went away on it's own. I ran my ODBII and it was gone from Current, Pending and Permanent. I was ecstatic but it only lasted about three days.

If you figure something out PLEASE post your findings.
Click to expand...
2013 Av BDE. 115,000 miles.
Took to dealership for a “Check ENG” light. Code was O2 sensor but....,tech said he’s seen this before with the variable cylinder engine. One plug was fouled (no mpg issue or performance issue. Changed all plugs, no codes, 5000 miles on it now since eng lite came on. Goes to show experience is greater than modern electronics at times!
 
jimmyz79 said:
Well, good luck with it. I've been driving Trucks and SUV's for years, and I still can't believe how nice this thing rides...
Click to expand...

LjAvtech said:
2013 Av BDE. 115,000 miles.
Took to dealership for a “Check ENG” light. Code was O2 sensor but....,tech said he’s seen this before with the variable cylinder engine. One plug was fouled (no mpg issue or performance issue. Changed all plugs, no codes, 5000 miles on it now since eng lite came on. Goes to show experience is greater than modern electronics at times!
Click to expand...
Mine had new plugs installed before I took possession and apparently my AFM was deleted by previous owner(?) I guess for me it all boiled down to I had two bad, brand new O2 sensors out of the box. The first one was aftermarket box store, second one OEM And this third one was OEM as well but seems to be fine.

It’s amazing how unreliable new parts are outta the box.
 
Old topic - same issue.

I replace (again) the o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1

Now - should I go back to the parts store and get a replacement? I have heard that they can be bad from the factory (Bosch)
 
what has it been 2 years?

I doubt part warranty is that long but does not hurt to try.

I think some parts stores may warranty some things for life...
 
ygmn said:
what has it been 2 years?

I doubt part warranty is that long but does not hurt to try.

I think some parts stores may warranty some things for life...
Click to expand...
No - two days ago I replaced it AGAIN - so the part is three days old.

It did clear the code - I put about 40 miles on the truck and it came back
 
DId not know as the last post from you was last year.

Sometimes they are junk to start with so yeah return it for new one.

If problem does not go away could be wiring or something else
 
O'Reilly's sold me a new one, said bring the other one back - and so far its solved the problem. Got some rust to resolve then its off to get inspected.

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top