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200,000 Mile Club

2010 LTZ, 226500 miles, I've replaced tires, brakes a couple of times, radiator a month ago, normal tune ups, changed the 145 amp alternator to a 160 amp, new battery new belts, new fuel tank straps (one rusted and broke), new rear magna-ride air shocks, new rear coil springs, new stainless steel flow master #40 mufflers and pipes and routine oil changes using full synthetic 5w30 Mobile-1 oil and she purrs like a kitten. ???IMG_05291(2).jpg
 
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Love the look with those tires Capt Crunch! I'm envious! I just got new tires but went HT because I'm always on the road, but I really wanted something meaty like yours.
 
2005 Z71, 207,000 miles. Seems if you keep throwing parts at them and catch problems early with keen ears and eyes, they'll GO, and GO and GO until mother nature reclaims them. (New England winter rot) Still on original hard brake lines, but they look awful and can go anytime.

I'm sure there's more, but off the top of my head...(in relative order, many aftermarket)
  • Trans rebuild/repaired under warranty at 34k miles
  • Water Pump
  • Interior Headlight/Dome light combo switch
  • Front Differential & CV Axles [used-junkyard] (While trying to replace leaking seals, mechanic broke diff. housing trying to remove frozen axle shaft - replaced with used and didn't replace those seals, which began leaking within a week.)
  • Front axle seals (1x) - by local Chevy dealer this time.
  • Fuel Pump
  • Transfer Case Shift Module
  • Front Hub Bearings (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Rear (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Front (1x)
  • Headlamp & Foglamp Housings (2x - aftermarket)
  • Battery (4x)
  • Shocks (3x)
  • Tires (3x)
  • Brake pads (7x+ - front/rear disparity)
  • Brake Caliper assemblies (1x)
  • Brake hoses (1x)
  • Pitman & Idler Arms (1x)
  • Inner & Outer tie-rod ends (1x - passenger only)
  • Alternator (3x)
  • Windshield (3x)
  • Driver's seat bottom cover (1x)
  • Tail Gate-Rear Door (1x) Composite material separated/broke while loading a quad)
  • Catalytic Converters (1x)
 
2005 Z71, 207,000 miles. Seems if you keep throwing parts at them and catch problems early with keen ears and eyes, they'll GO, and GO and GO until mother nature reclaims them. (New England winter rot) Still on original hard brake lines, but they look awful and can go anytime.

I'm sure there's more, but off the top of my head...(in relative order, many aftermarket)
  • Trans rebuild/repaired under warranty at 34k miles
  • Water Pump
  • Interior Headlight/Dome light combo switch
  • Front Differential & CV Axles [used-junkyard] (While trying to replace leaking seals, mechanic broke diff. housing trying to remove frozen axle shaft - replaced with used and didn't replace those seals, which began leaking within a week.)
  • Front axle seals (1x) - by local Chevy dealer this time.
  • Fuel Pump
  • Transfer Case Shift Module
  • Front Hub Bearings (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Rear (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Front (1x)
  • Headlamp & Foglamp Housings (2x - aftermarket)
  • Battery (4x)
  • Shocks (3x)
  • Tires (3x)
  • Brake pads (7x+ - front/rear disparity)
  • Brake Caliper assemblies (1x)
  • Brake hoses (1x)
  • Pitman & Idler Arms (1x)
  • Inner & Outer tie-rod ends (1x - passenger only)
  • Alternator (3x)
  • Windshield (3x)
  • Driver's seat bottom cover (1x)
  • Tail Gate-Rear Door (1x) Composite material separated/broke while loading a quad)
  • Catalytic Converters (1x)
Honest truth here... in my post from this morning above I mentioned I was still running on the original brake lines. Well tonight while grabbing take-out, my brake pedal went to the floor and the brake pressure light went on just as I got parked at the establishment. Got out to see where it was leaking from and it was just pouring heavily (gravity-fed from the master cylinder) from a totally rust-rotted and crumbled line just about even with the driver's seat. Incredible timing? The power of suggestion? This repair could be expensive... appreciate any advice from those who've been here with their AVys. (TIA)
 
Honest truth here... in my post from this morning above I mentioned I was still running on the original brake lines. Well tonight while grabbing take-out, my brake pedal went to the floor and the brake pressure light went on just as I got parked at the establishment. Got out to see where it was leaking from and it was just pouring heavily (gravity-fed from the master cylinder) from a totally rust-rotted and crumbled line just about even with the driver's seat. Incredible timing? The power of suggestion? This repair could be expensive... appreciate any advice from those who've been here with their AVys. (TIA)


Been there done that except I was stopping for a traffic light.
Do you plan on fixing it yourself. ???
 
I'd tackle a lot of things, but prolly not this. I'll look for someone local (and reasonable) to replace them. I just don't have experience with lines, flaring, flaring tools, or time for trial and error with this stuff. Would prefer the lines be copper this time, or something less likely to rot/pit/corrode.
 
Fair enough, I was going to mention that there still pre bent kits out there that are nylon coated. But it's a real pain to swap them yourself. Last I heard it's about 800-1000 bucks.to replace them.
 
Drove my 2002 Z66 320,000 sold in 2016 due to rocker panel rust, buyer still driving. Bought 2006 Southern Comfort with 135,000 on odometer, owned by golf course never driven in rain, underside was spotless, currently at 204,000. Knew when I bought 2006 it had a carrier bearing problem, found out drivers side bearing had spun in housing. Loctited new bearing in place and drove 70,000 miles before I had to replace entire housing. Just finished install of new housing.
 
210,000 was givin to me last christmas from kids grandparents.bought new dealer serviced but that didnt stop my Michigan winters .Doing brake lines done front 4 thought back would be ok .Thats what i get for thinking lol
 
At 197k, starting to get a little slip in the transmission. It stays in gear longer shifting from 1st to 2nd. Looking to rebuild or replace but not sure which route to go. I would be having a shop do the work. I live in Ohio, I can take it anywhere in the state if anyone here has recommendations. Other than that it's been a great truck only minimal maintenance
 
At 197k, starting to get a little slip in the transmission. It stays in gear longer shifting from 1st to 2nd. Looking to rebuild or replace but not sure which route to go. I would be having a shop do the work. I live in Ohio, I can take it anywhere in the state if anyone here has recommendations. Other than that it's been a great truck only minimal maintenance

The transmission on my 2004 EXT went out at 125K.

I had it rebuilt.

It now has 236K.

Get it rebuilt at a competent transmission shop.
 
That's great, now to find a "competent" shop

Ask trusted friends who they have used or recommend.

Search for reviews of local shops online.

Do the same sort of homework you would do like you would for home remodeling or repair or some other expensive project.

And always remember, good isn't always cheap and cheap isn't always good.

Talk to your intended shop about your needs and any concerns.

If they can answer your questions to your satisfaction, you are well on your way.
 
2010 LTZ, 226500 miles, I've replaced tires, brakes a couple of times, radiator a month ago, normal tune ups, changed the 145 amp alternator to a 160 amp, new battery new belts, new fuel tank straps (one rusted and broke), new rear magna-ride air shocks, new rear coil springs, new stainless steel flow master #40 mufflers and pipes and routine oil changes using full synthetic 5w30 Mobile-1 oil and she purrs like a kitten. ???View attachment 227421
Did you have those rims coated/painted? I have the same rims and those look great with some color to them!
 
2005 Z71, 207,000 miles. Seems if you keep throwing parts at them and catch problems early with keen ears and eyes, they'll GO, and GO and GO until mother nature reclaims them. (New England winter rot) Still on original hard brake lines, but they look awful and can go anytime.

I'm sure there's more, but off the top of my head...(in relative order, many aftermarket)
  • Trans rebuild/repaired under warranty at 34k miles
  • Water Pump
  • Interior Headlight/Dome light combo switch
  • Front Differential & CV Axles [used-junkyard] (While trying to replace leaking seals, mechanic broke diff. housing trying to remove frozen axle shaft - replaced with used and didn't replace those seals, which began leaking within a week.)
  • Front axle seals (1x) - by local Chevy dealer this time.
  • Fuel Pump
  • Transfer Case Shift Module
  • Front Hub Bearings (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Rear (2x)
  • Evap. Vent Selenoid - Front (1x)
  • Headlamp & Foglamp Housings (2x - aftermarket)
  • Battery (4x)
  • Shocks (3x)
  • Tires (3x)
  • Brake pads (7x+ - front/rear disparity)
  • Brake Caliper assemblies (1x)
  • Brake hoses (1x)
  • Pitman & Idler Arms (1x)
  • Inner & Outer tie-rod ends (1x - passenger only)
  • Alternator (3x)
  • Windshield (3x)
  • Driver's seat bottom cover (1x)
  • Tail Gate-Rear Door (1x) Composite material separated/broke while loading a quad)
  • Catalytic Converters (1x)
Where is this Front Vent Solenoid you mentioned? I replaced the one above the rear tire, but didn't know there was another.
 
Where is this Front Vent Solenoid you mentioned? I replaced the one above the rear tire, but didn't know there was another.
It's usually called the purge valve(solenoid). It dumps the vapors from the evap system into the intake.

Here is a video showing replacement of one. Quick and easy!
 
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It's usually called the purge valve(solenoid). It dumps the vapors from the evap system into the intake.

Here is a video showing replacement of one. Quick and easy!
I'm aware of this valve. The different terminology got me! Thanks and thanks for the reply to my other post too!
 
2002 I am the original owner 230K. towed my 3k lbs boat for most of those miles. Been a great truck, currently parked, no power from the key to the crank fuse.
 
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