Trey said:Yeah, you can do that by creating a latching relay circuit. It would involve multiple relays and diodes to create the logic. It would have to be a small external box. The circuit would keep the fog relay energized only when it was already on and when the hi-beams are on.
grumpy0282 said:that would be a good idea but were talking about gm wiring
i was looking at the schismatic and near as i can tell its a negative trigger, not positive
2 terminals are positive (hot) all the time when the key is on
1 terminal goes to the light - positive out
1 terminal is ground from the body control module (BCM) and the fog light switch (button) goes into the BCM, this has to be a ground because the terminal on the other side is positive
It's been so long since I opened up my fuse box to do the All-On-High mod, so I don't remember all the specific pins anymore. Plus I think the panels were different for different years. I don't see how you would accomplish what you need to do without building a custom circuit. I don't have the time to design it right now, but a form of latching relay circuit would probably do the job for you. Latching relays remember the last state they were in and change based on a trigger. You would have to think about the logic in your circuit and configure it to behave based on the inputs from the fog light and hi-beam relay trigger voltages. Here is a website that might help explain it...Saoirse_Trodai said:
TREY,
What about removing pin 85 (I think its the correct one, I'm stuck on a boat in the middle of the ocean right now with no diagram or anything to look at ) and creating a connection to an ignition source? This should grant control to the fog light circuit at any time the truck has the keys turned. The lights will most likely switch off when the high beams are turned on, but could easily be turned right back on by pushing the fog light button, correct? I ask because it seems your technical knowledge seems to be a couple steps ahead of mine.
The parking lamps are dimmer than the DRLs, because the DRLs use the high power filament in the 3157LL, and the parking lights use the low power filament.ALone said:Yes!!!
a bit late maybe, sorry, circumstances, yeah.
I turned the diode around and, yes, it works now.
The only thing is that my parking lights are a bit fainter then my DRL's.
I think i can put some lamps in with more watts?
Anyway, i'm happy now.
Trey said:The parking lamps are dimmer than the DRLs, because the DRLs use the high power filament in the 3157LL, and the parking lights use the low power filament.
NOPE, Trey is accurate in his post. I just changed out the sockets on the WBH to a modded turn signal socket so that the drls and the parking lights are the same intensity. It isn't as noticeable on either of our claddys as it is the wbh because the bulbs are side by side.Flint4x4 said:I think it's the lens rather than the bulb, I have 3157/4157 NALL in my DRLs and parking lights are still OEM.
I don't notice much difference in brightness with cladded since DRLs are on the bottom
ohiobellboy said:NOPE, Trey is accurate in his post. I just changed out the sockets on the WBH to a modded turn signal socket so that the drls and the parking lights are the same intensity. It isn't as noticeable on either of our claddys as it is the wbh because the bulbs are side by side.
not if you move the drl feed to the middle of the plug instead of the outside pin in the plug.Flint4x4 said:That sounds like the circuit rather than the lens or bulb, the LL or NALL wouldn't be brighter installed in the OEM signal socket ?