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2002 Full Time DRLs - Instructions for UnderHood Mod

first, im not sure what cladded or WBD is
and if im not mistaken, the thing from summit basically does what this post is all about but for the hi/low only
if i used this for the fogs, i could do what this post is all about, thats not what i want
am i mistaken or do you not understand what i want ?
Trey knows what i want, its just a matter of how easy it will be

 
Wow! Sorry for the mixed communication. I now see that you had an earlier post.  :E:

Here is a site on how to build the latching relay circuit Trey was talking about and a basic discussion on how it works.
Circuit


 
im sorry, i still dont see how that will work
could you explain what switch is the normally open and the normally closed is in the diagram and where does the fog light switch connect to ? would that be in place of the battery ?
also let me add that i also did this mod (this all on hi) but only for the low-beams, so my low beams stay on only
the only 2 things i can think of is a logic circuit (but not sure how easy that will be) or a separate switch but prefer not to do that as i dont want aftermarket switches on the dash, but that would be the easiest (i think)

thx
 
Not sure if this answers the question but I used a add-on kit like the one sold by Summit Racing in my GMC.  It simply did one thing.  When the hi beams went on, the lows beams stayed on (versus going off).  Since the kit install just by attaching to the headlight wiring and does not connect to the factory relays for all your lights, no other lights (parking, fog) were affected and continued to work as normal - which I believe is what you desire.

The kit (which has its own relay) installs easily and worked flawlessly.

In my A/V however, I used the diode mod because I want the fogs on whenever the headlights are on.  Another nice feature with the diode mod is during the day (headlights off) if you push the fog light button, the fogs come on, the DRL's stay on and the parking lights come on.  If you forget to turn them off when you exit the vehicle, they shut off automatically when you open a door (with the key off).  Nice.

PS. Cladded = entire lower half of A/V is covered in a plastic/resin - was discontinued after the 2006 model year.

WBH = Without Body Hardware.  Means no body cladding.  Can be confusing.
 
ok to reiterate

with factory setup
you can turn the fogs on and off as you want but NOT when the hi beam is on, as fogs will not come on with hi beams on and if they are on they will shut off

what i want
i want to turn the fogs on and off as i want even when the hi beams are on
so if fogs are on and i turn the hi beams on, i want the fogs to stay on
if fogs are off and i turn the hi beams on, i want to fogs to stay off

oh and i dont know if this matters but i also have automatic headlights

the kit from summit racing does what this post is all about at a much higher cost
i did what that kit does with the help of this post with the use of 1 diode

i hope this clarifies things
 
Trey said:
Yeah, you can do that by creating a latching relay circuit.  It would involve multiple relays and diodes to create the logic.  It would have to be a small external box.  The circuit would keep the fog relay energized only when it was already on and when the hi-beams are on.

:0:

TREY,

What about removing pin 85 (I think its the correct one, I'm stuck on a boat in the middle of the ocean right now with no diagram or anything to look at  :E:) and creating a connection to an ignition source? This should grant control to the fog light circuit at any time the truck has the keys turned. The lights will most likely switch off when the high beams are turned on, but could easily be turned right back on by pushing the fog light button, correct? I ask because it seems your technical knowledge seems to be a couple steps ahead of mine.  :6:
 
that would be a good idea but were talking about gm wiring
i was looking at the schismatic and near as i can tell its a negative trigger, not positive
2 terminals are positive (hot) all the time when the key is on
1 terminal goes to the light - positive out
1 terminal is ground from the body control module (BCM) and the fog light switch (button) goes into the BCM, this has to be a ground because the terminal on the other side is positive


 
 
grumpy0282 said:
that would be a good idea but were talking about gm wiring
i was looking at the schismatic and near as i can tell its a negative trigger, not positive
2 terminals are positive (hot) all the time when the key is on
1 terminal goes to the light - positive out
1 terminal is ground from the body control module (BCM) and the fog light switch (button) goes into the BCM, this has to be a ground because the terminal on the other side is positive

lol. I totally agree with the crazy GM wiring. Surprises me all the time.
Anyway you could PM me with the schematic? I'm on deployment so I have no references to look at.
 
Saoirse_Trodai said:
:0:

TREY,

What about removing pin 85 (I think its the correct one, I'm stuck on a boat in the middle of the ocean right now with no diagram or anything to look at  :E:) and creating a connection to an ignition source? This should grant control to the fog light circuit at any time the truck has the keys turned. The lights will most likely switch off when the high beams are turned on, but could easily be turned right back on by pushing the fog light button, correct? I ask because it seems your technical knowledge seems to be a couple steps ahead of mine.  :6:
It's been so long since I opened up my fuse box to do the All-On-High mod, so I don't remember all the specific pins anymore.  Plus I think the panels were different for different years.  I don't see how you would accomplish what you need to do without building a custom circuit.  I don't have the time to design it right now, but a form of latching relay circuit would probably do the job for you.  Latching relays remember the last state they were in and change based on a trigger.  You would have to think about the logic in your circuit and configure it to behave based on the inputs from the fog light and hi-beam relay trigger voltages.  Here is a website that might help explain it...
http://www.azatrax.com/latching-relay-circuits.html
 
I plan on (hopefully) making this mod, this weekend!! I have a GMT400 and did the all on high mod and MAN what a difference in lighting it made!!!!
 
Well I just now got to do this mod tonight, and I'm really impressed!!! I had the hardest time getting the DRL's to work.

Ya know........it helps when you have the diode in the right way. I had marked it wrong on the heat shrink!!!

The only really hard part was routing the diodes. Those relay's are in there TIGHT!!!!

Thank you vertabatt for a very simple and easy to understand write up on this!!!!  (y)
 
Just did this mod tonight and followed the instructions perfectly.  Great right up! Looks great and only took me 15 min. to do.  Very simple and this was my night-capper after putting Monroe Reflex shocks on the front today. Thanks again!  (y)
 
Following the server changes a lot of very old pics are no longer viewable.
Any chance we can the pics from the original post restored?

Thanks,
EJ
 
Hello everybody,

i am new to this forum, i'm living in The Netherlands, where not much American cars run.
Here in Europe, we have lots of smal cars, French, German and Japanese mostly.
So, a big American car is a bit of a rarity. When it has an ocean of light, it really is something!

I was interested in the FTDRL's in this mod, but liked the All-On-High as wel, so i performed the mod.

First, i like to thank vertabatt for writing this mod.
Thanks to erickpl for making the pdf.

It took me forever to find out were i could buy diode's. Finally i found a electronics shop where they sold them, the guy behind the desk said that it was at least five years, since he sold diode's. I was very happy to have them. Yesterday i did the mod together with my son en it is functioning very well.
It took not long to insert the diode's, it took longer to put the heatshrink on them!

I now have lots of light in the dark, DRL's all the time, perfect, allmost.

The only thing i want now, is during day(light)time, have the parking lights (ambers) with my DRL's.
With the switch on "auto", i have that in the dark, but then the Lows are on too. During daytime, i only have the (amber ofcourse) DRL's.
I tried installing an additional diode from the 85 pin of the parking-lights relay, to the 85 pin of the DRL's relay, (black stripe of the diode towards the DRL's), but that didnt work. Reversing the diode didn't work either.
So, i am wondering, is it possible? or should i just live with it?
I read the hole post, and somewhere half, firemedic said (03/03/0:cool: it wasn't possible, but later, (05/21/09), vertabatt says, that it is possible, only thing is that most diode's are to short en should be wired. later flint4x4 says he has it working (09/28/09).
Please, can anybody help me out here?
 
Welcome Alone.  I installed the mod last year.

On my 2004 Z71, during the daytime with the light switch on Auto, and the DRLs on, if I press the Fog Lamp switch, the parking lights will come on as well as the fog lights.  Also the Fog Light indicator next to the button will light.  What's nice about this, is when you turn your A/V off, all the lights go off with out any intervention on your part.

I don't know if this was intended but that's how mine work after I installed this mod.  Kind of handy on rainy/dreary days during daylight hours.

If you running as described above and it starts getting dark, the light sensor will kick on your headlights automatically.


 
thanks for your feedback Dads04Z71.

I would really like to have (during day-light) only all ambers on, so, only the DRL's and the Parking Lights.
I lenghtend all my diode's with a red and a blue (stripe on diode) wire, so they won't be under my relays anymore. (feels better this way)
Now i have a diode between my parking lights ad my DRL's as well, but it still doesn't work  :(
You can see in the picture (the pink line) where i put the red wire and blue wire (striped side of the diode).
:(
Tomorrow, i'll turn it around, maybe that will work, ( but i don't think it will), my son is coming over, so he can look at my lights to see if its working.
If not, maybe he or someone from this forum?, has a good idea for making my parking lights come on together with my DRL's.

I think it has to do with the different kind of relay that is used, the others (exept for the fog lights one) are all Delphi 8866 and this one is a Delphi 8864. maybe i am connecting with the wrong pin?


The relay what i have circled (the foglights), was upside down in it, i couldn't get my fog-on-hi, to work, then my son said, turn it around and now its's working.


i will be back.
 
Yes!!!  :D
a bit late maybe, sorry, :rolleyes:  circumstances, yeah. >:D
I turned the diode around and, yes, it works now.
The only thing is that my parking lights are a bit fainter then my DRL's. :(
I think i can put some lamps in with more watts? :cool:
Anyway, i'm happy now. (y)
 
Hey guys, bear with my ignorance (I'm new) for a moment. If I do the FTDRLs, will I lose my ability to do the "dome override" trick to shut off my lights at night while in gear? The reason I ask is because I am often coming home when everybody is in bed and I dont want to flash my lights into the house.

Also, I am changing out my cabin air filter. Does anyone know of a cheap mod I can do while the lower dashboard is off?

Thanks,
Billy
 
Well my first mod (many to come) on my new to me 06 was the 4 on high diode.  Worked great!  Thanks for the info!
 
ALone said:
Yes!!!  :D
a bit late maybe, sorry, :rolleyes:   circumstances, yeah. >:D
I turned the diode around and, yes, it works now.
The only thing is that my parking lights are a bit fainter then my DRL's. :(
I think i can put some lamps in with more watts? :cool:
Anyway, i'm happy now. (y)
The parking lamps are dimmer than the DRLs, because the DRLs use the high power filament in the 3157LL, and the parking lights use the low power filament.
 
Trey said:
The parking lamps are dimmer than the DRLs, because the DRLs use the high power filament in the 3157LL, and the parking lights use the low power filament.

I think it's the lens rather than the bulb, I have 3157/4157 NALL in my DRLs and parking lights are still OEM.

I don't notice much difference in brightness with cladded since DRLs are on the bottom
 
Flint4x4 said:
I think it's the lens rather than the bulb, I have 3157/4157 NALL in my DRLs and parking lights are still OEM.

I don't notice much difference in brightness with cladded since DRLs are on the bottom
NOPE, Trey is accurate in his post. I just changed out the sockets on the WBH to a modded turn signal socket so that the drls and the parking lights are the same intensity. It isn't as noticeable on either of our claddys as it is the wbh because the bulbs are side by side.
 
ohiobellboy said:
NOPE, Trey is accurate in his post. I just changed out the sockets on the WBH to a modded turn signal socket so that the drls and the parking lights are the same intensity. It isn't as noticeable on either of our claddys as it is the wbh because the bulbs are side by side.

That sounds like the circuit rather than the lens or bulb, the LL or NALL wouldn't be brighter installed in the OEM signal socket ?
 
Flint4x4 said:
That sounds like the circuit rather than the lens or bulb, the LL or NALL wouldn't be brighter installed in the OEM signal socket ?
not if you move the drl feed to the middle of the plug instead of the outside pin in the plug.
There's a recent thread here showing how this is done.
 
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