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2002 Full Time DRLs - Instructions for UnderHood Mod

It didn't work.  It was a far stretch so maybe I couldn't get it to make contact, or maybe it just doesn't work or maybe I just dorked something up.  Anyway, got full time ambers on fog, low and high as well as all on high.

Posting on my phone and too tired to convert photos to an acceptable size.  I'll post them laterm
 
frito said:
It didn't work.  It was a far stretch so maybe I couldn't get it to make contact, or maybe it just doesn't work or maybe I just dorked something up.  Anyway, got full time ambers on fog, low and high as well as all on high.

Posting on my phone and too tired to convert photos to an acceptable size.  I'll post them laterm
have you tried flipping them around? that screwed with me for a while
 
Dakotawilk said:
which part isnt working?
the ftdrls the all on high or?....
Everything in the instructions are working.  I was trying to tie the DRLs into the parking lamps which hasn't been discussed in this thread.  That's the part that's not working.  Full time DRL and all on high are fine.  I tied the DRLs into the fogs so I can run just the parking lamps, fogs and DRLs.
 
I did this mod a few years ago, using the instructions in this link.  Works perfectly but it may work slightly different for different model year A/Vs.  In my case (2004 A/V LTZ) the amber DRLs are always on until the headlights come on - then they go dark which is OK with me.

But if it is daytime and I push the fog light button, the DRLs remain on and the fog, parking and taillights also come on.  I find this handy on rainy days when it is to bright for the auto headlights to kick on. What's even nicer you don't have to remember to turn them off when you exit the vehicle - they shut off automatically.

So with the key in run during the day, (the truck may have to be out of Park) punch the fog light button and see what happens.
 
That part is working.  Here's what I have:
  • DRL on with fog
  • DRL on with fog and low beams
  • Everything (DRL, low beam, high beam and fog) on together
By default, the parking lights come on with any of those combinations.  The combination I didn't get to work was just the DRL and parking lights (no fog, low or high beams).  I think as soon as the parking lights go on without anything else on the DRL goes off.
 
Just did this and my lows turn on with my DRL's.... I do not want the lows on during the day.  :help:


:edit: just re wired. It works normal.
 
Got 'er done before our 3,000 mile trip.
IMG_20140619_225748473.jpg
 
Just did all 5 diodes, works like a charm. This has got to one of the best write ups I have ever seen. Excellent work.
 
hi, i did mine a while ago but i did it a bit different
i did mine so lows stay on with the highs and i can control my fogs weather highs are on or not
ive also HIDs in all bulbs
 
grumpy0282 said:
hi, i did mine a while ago but i did it a bit different
i did mine so lows stay on with the highs and i can control my fogs weather highs are on or not
ive also HIDs in all bulbs

interested on how you did this
 
well the lows, the same as in the diagram here, the fogs, (if memory serves as its been a while) also the same thats in the diagram but with a toggle switch in between the 2 relays thats obviously run into the truck
 
Mod worked great. Thanks. Can you advise on how to have the ability to turn on fogs with hi beams, using fog switch, but not have them come on automatically with high beams?
 
Whoops!  My very first drive, to check out my mods, and I got pulled over!  I think the white DRLs made my HID's look more blue than they actually are!  I haven't figured out how to post a picture here yet, maybe later. Today, I removed the cheapo HID system that the guy before me put in, and installed silverstar ultras instead.  Thanks for posting this mod @vertabatt, you rock!
 
just cause the hids are a bit blue does not mean they are cheap
you can replace the bulb
http://www.vvme.com/vvme-hid-color-temperature
i have 6000k in the highs and lows and 3000k in my fogs and i love them
(no blue at all)

 
grumpy0282 said:
just cause the hids are a bit blue does not mean they are cheap
you can replace the bulb
http://www.vvme.com/vvme-hid-color-temperature
i have 6000k in the highs and lows and 3000k in my fogs and i love them
(no blue at all)

Agreed, but the system I had was cheaply made.  Xentec.  In fact, one of the plastic bases ripped off, exposing circuit board, when I pulled them off of their foam tape perch.  :). And, I have instant on, which I had missed.
 
Hi guys! Just completed this mod and got it right on the first shot! WooHoo!!! Love it! Just one question though I noticed all of my fuses are the same. All are the fog light #, will I be OK? I'll pick up the right ones tomorrow hopefully but just wanted to make sure I'm OK for now.
 
Some notes:

Do not install anything into the sockets as the original poster suggests. You will damage the sockets and could cause issues at a later time. you are better to solder to the bottom of the relay and do so with a thin wire. You are not moving very much power so you do not need a large wire or large diodes.

I strongly suggest if you are doing the FTDRL along with the All on high that you drop the diode going from the High beam to the DRL. Since it will pull off the low beam it is redundant since the low beam is on with the high beams.

To explain how this is working one must understand a relay...
Pins 85 and 86 are for the coil. In THIS application pin 86 is going to +12 and pin 85 is coming from the BCM to control the lighting.

Pin 30 is the common and pins 87/87a are the switched connections with one being normally open and the other being normally closed. (Only my FOGS had the 87/87a pins all the others only had the 87 pin there which is normally open.)

Be wary that you are driving these relays directly from the BCM and the BCM has limited capacity. Apparently it hasn't been an issue because I haven't heard of anyone burning up their BCM doing this mod.

NORMALLY pin 30 would be connected to a high level power source leaving pin 87 to be the switched connection. It may be backwards on these sockets so if you want to make any changes you will want to test the connection first. Basically what happens is the relay will connect pins 87 and 30 when pins 85 and 86 have power and ground to them.

The Diodes are drawn correctly. The lines go to the negative side of the circuit and the BCM is switching with ground so the original diagram is correct.

Updated this post since I just did this... (Diodes are correct so have to edit...)
 
as you said, its only a small wire needed, how is a small wire going to damage the socket ?
i have been doing this for years and years weather it be with relays or fuses and have yet to cause ANY damage to the socket
as long as you are not trying to stuff a big fat wire in there, i cant see there being an issue

 
If you are using a VERY small wire that will squish down flat then you might be OK but it is a bad idea..

Sort of like installing electronic equipment without fuses. You may be fine for MANY years.. Right up until she caught on fire...

Otherwise anything inserted into the socket with the relay is an issue. Not to mention if the thing you insert puts a space between the pin on the relay and the socket. Then not only are you stretching the socket but the relay is not in direct contact as designed by GM and if the material is different than the pin you are likely to promote corrosion in the socket do to differences in electrical potential between dissimilar metals. (Look up household compatibility between Aluminum and Copper wiring... Will cause a fire if you mix wiring in your house without proper connections. )

Note that corrosion due to dissimilar metals passing current through them will happen very slowly with the coil side of the relay since you are pulling very little current through it.
 
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