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2004 Avalanche overheating issue

Sounds like you need to back flush the radiator if that hasn't been done.

And in actuality, running straight water in a vehicle in the summer time is the best heat transfer method. You just need to add chemicals to it to insure the water pump is properly lubricated and the metal is properly protected. Marketed as "Water wetter if I am not mistaken.  Water boils at a lower temp than coolant does but coolant does not transfer heat nearly as well as straight water. Straight water is very corrosive and can damage the water pump since it is used for a lubricant as well.

Another potential issue, and one I have had on my own vehicles...

Has tap water ever been used in your truck? City tap water can have chemicals in it intended to coat metal piping to prevent it from leaching out lead. (See Flint, MI for details of what can happen when this is NOT put in the water...) If this is the case then you may want to get some distilled water and perform a full system flush of your radiator. You may need to do a couple full radiator flushes to get all of the phosphates and such out of your coolant system. Use only the distilled water to flush the system out. When you refill only use distilled water (Or better) to fill it back up to make your proper mix of coolant.
Worst case, replace the radiator but a couple bottles of coolant flush is much cheaper.

I used to have this issue with any vehicle I had that was higher mileage and flushing the radiator did wonders. The heat transfer is the most important part of your coolant system. If you are using well water that leaves stains on stuff and you put that in your vehicle you will coat your radiator and internal water passages in your engine. This prevents the heat transfering from the engine to the water allowing the engine to run hotter, this also prevents the heat to be released into the radiator. If you had your radiator flushed and filled since last summer or possibly even from the water pump change if they used tap water could have added enough coating solution to cause your problem.

Also note, in early dexcool systems there were clay tablets put into the coolant. These tablets were to prevent leaks and if air got into the system they clumped up and caused plugs in the system. If you had the original dexcool in your system it is possible that a back flushing of the cooling components may be required to get your system back to normal.  But never use tap water in your cooling system except for dire emergencies.
 
Still fighting this thing. Replaced the clutch fan twice and put another new water pump, still the same results. Thermoscanned the radiator and it appears good. I guess the next step is a radiator. Even at 70-80 mph with the ac on it will eventually start heating up. When you turn the ac off it takes 10-15 minutes before it starts cooling down. Maybe I will throw an electric fan on as well. It doesn?t make any sense.
 
you state in first post the over flow tank split.
Did you replace?
Does system hold pressure?

DO you have proper PSI rated cap?

Having proper pressure cap is important for temps.

Ever pressure test for leaks?

Ever flush block and or heater core?

 
Yes I replaced the overflow tank and it?s had 2 other radiator caps on it, same issue. Flushed the radiator, heater core, and the block, nothing found to indicate a blockage. Fresh antifreeze but still same issue. I guess try an electric fan as well and maybe a new radiator.
 
Maybe Gage is wrong?

DO you have real time data reader? Handheld or such?

Seems strange all is fine until tank splits.
YOu replace tank and now it overheats.

MAybe Thermostat is sticking? or incorrect setting or just opens too high?
 
I went back and re-read your first post (Sorry I didn't have time to re-read the whole thread).

You mentioned early on that you could start the truck and leave it running with the a/c running for an hour or so and everything was OK.

Could it be possible that the problem is actually an overheating transmission and all that extra heat is not coming from the engine?

I apologize if this has already been discussed.

This is just one really strange problem you got going on there.

I hope you can get it figured out soon.
 
I am at wits end with this truck. Everything has been replaced at least twice and still having issues. Radiator has been scanned twice and nothing irregular. So embarrassing picked the wife up from the airport today and had to spend most of the ride with the windows down with the outside temps 104 degrees. Usually if you turn the ac off it will cool down. I went probably 20 miles with it near 230 and it did not drop until I got off the interstate. At each stoplight I held it about 1500 rpm until it went to 210. Ac will make it angry in about 8-10 minutes. So I have a big electric fan left over from a hot rod build I want to put on it. I have relay and wiring and plan to wire it so it stays on all the time when the ignition is on. What is the easiest place to wire the power in to make it work. It is way too hot here to deal with installing a switch or thermostat. This truck is killing me but I love my Avalanche and not ready to throw in the towel.
 
YOu need another set of eyes to look at it.

I would check for stuck thermostat...

or collapsed hose somewhere...

OR check gage... and sending unit.
 
Is there a lot of gunk on the fins on the radiator and/or the condenser.  I've had some leaking transmission fluid from an aux tranny cooler gunk up on the condenser on my corvette causing overheating issues much like yours.
 
Radiator is super clean and no bent fins. It also has not been painted.
 
When you flushed the radiator did you actually use "radiator flush" chemicals or just do a water flush?

I have had to do upwards of 3 complete flushes (with clean distilled water inbetween each flush) to get all of the built up film removed from my engines in the past before I understood how much crap is in drinking water.

Also, if you need to for the summer to get you through... Get some water wetter and run straight water in your truck and see if it drops the temps. Distilled water only.. Straight water (with water wetter) is the best conductor of heat. But if you do that make sure you remember to go back to a 50/50 split before the weather freezes or you WILL crack the engine block.

Rodney
 
Heading for summer, round 12 if feels like. Think I will replace the radiator, only thing left other than replacing the truck. It?s 14 miles away from 200,000 miles. I?ll keep you posted.
 
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