Hello, I have a 2205 chevy avalanche that died while going down the hwy. Towed home, won't crank at all, battery good, all fuses good, obd2 can not connect and has weird electrical issues now. When turn to key on dash lights come on, gouges don't work, when turn off and take key out dash lights dont go off. Door does not dong, locks don't work. When I disconnect the battery and reconnect the windows work for about 30 seconds and then don't work. A/c still works, mirrors move, doom lights work. Replaced ignition, nothing, replaced ecm nothing. I am at a loss. Please help.
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2005 chevy avalanche died while driving, wont crank
- Thread starter Dino7277
- Start date
BainMan
Full Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2019
- Messages
- 1,216
How was the battery verified as good? Load tested? An 'iffy' battery can display many oddities, and might even show normal voltage but cannot deliver enough amps. You're probably well aware of this, seems like you've done some real work to it, but we have to ask the simple questions first..
P.S. I hoped they'd bring the Avalanche back eventually! Too bad it isn't for almost 200 years.. Dino here living in the future with his model year 2205!
P.S. I hoped they'd bring the Avalanche back eventually! Too bad it isn't for almost 200 years.. Dino here living in the future with his model year 2205!
If your battery is good, maybe check for an aftermarket alarm system that malfunctioned.
When I bought my Av, an 02, it came only with two keys. No fobs, so I thought it was factory, but unknown to me it had a complete alarm auto start system that no longer worked wired into it. Last August my truck had very similar issues as yours. Even with a new battery I was having weird electrical issues like the doors not locking, dash lights wigging out or not coming on at all, hazards not working as well as no cranking. The starter had been checked and was thinking of troubleshooting the ignition or key but something made me check for to see if I had an aftermarket alarm. Glad I did because once I yanked it out, the truck started up as normal as nothing was ever wrong.
When I bought my Av, an 02, it came only with two keys. No fobs, so I thought it was factory, but unknown to me it had a complete alarm auto start system that no longer worked wired into it. Last August my truck had very similar issues as yours. Even with a new battery I was having weird electrical issues like the doors not locking, dash lights wigging out or not coming on at all, hazards not working as well as no cranking. The starter had been checked and was thinking of troubleshooting the ignition or key but something made me check for to see if I had an aftermarket alarm. Glad I did because once I yanked it out, the truck started up as normal as nothing was ever wrong.
I went ahead and just replaced the battery, but didn't help.
Yeah, the first thing I'm thinking is you lost ground, somewhere, while driving. Maybe there's something funky through the alternator not giving you enough voltage.?. I'd take some jumper cables straight from another running vehicle to the starter. Who knows. Sorry.
I'd recommend taking a good look at your battery harness connectors. Make for certain that the wires are snug within the connectors and will not wiggle about inside them. Check for signs of corrosion and remove it from contact surfaces if it exists.
In the case of a side terminal specific application, these connections are notorious for having poor connectivity when they get older. Corrosion can build up inside the housings and insulate the bolt from the contact ring that it goes though. I have had these go bad on both a buick lesabre and pontiac montana that we have previously owned. The lights, door dinger, radio, ect may al work, but when attempting to crank the car over you often will be met with a single click before everything dies until you release the key.
The buick more or less kept us from starting the car, the montana i've had it kill the engine while driving it. (it was a bad winter and I 180'd it when taking a corner at 25mph. The engine died and I couldn't restart it until I tugged the cable 90 degrees to make contact and get to work. Had i never owned that buick and knew the batteries were a pita, i would have never guessed. I didn't have tools on me at the time. More than once had I thought my buick had another issue, i'd check the terminals and think that they were fine. They didn't wiggle or anything, but at the suggestion of my father, i still tried to make sure with the wrench, and what do you know, it turned over.
if this is the case, you can usually give the terminals a little extra snug with a wrench and it can temporarily alleviate the problem. This crushes the bolt down onto the corroded ring inside it and offers the extra contact that it needs. (Be careful not to go too far, you dont want to strip the battery threads! We just want it firmly snug!) The connector itself should be replaced if this is the problem. Whether you replace with the OEM style or go top mount, that's up to you.
You might also be able to hook a battery jumper up to the backside of the connector in an effort to help it bypass the battery in the circuit to see if that lets it start.
In the case of a side terminal specific application, these connections are notorious for having poor connectivity when they get older. Corrosion can build up inside the housings and insulate the bolt from the contact ring that it goes though. I have had these go bad on both a buick lesabre and pontiac montana that we have previously owned. The lights, door dinger, radio, ect may al work, but when attempting to crank the car over you often will be met with a single click before everything dies until you release the key.
The buick more or less kept us from starting the car, the montana i've had it kill the engine while driving it. (it was a bad winter and I 180'd it when taking a corner at 25mph. The engine died and I couldn't restart it until I tugged the cable 90 degrees to make contact and get to work. Had i never owned that buick and knew the batteries were a pita, i would have never guessed. I didn't have tools on me at the time. More than once had I thought my buick had another issue, i'd check the terminals and think that they were fine. They didn't wiggle or anything, but at the suggestion of my father, i still tried to make sure with the wrench, and what do you know, it turned over.
if this is the case, you can usually give the terminals a little extra snug with a wrench and it can temporarily alleviate the problem. This crushes the bolt down onto the corroded ring inside it and offers the extra contact that it needs. (Be careful not to go too far, you dont want to strip the battery threads! We just want it firmly snug!) The connector itself should be replaced if this is the problem. Whether you replace with the OEM style or go top mount, that's up to you.
You might also be able to hook a battery jumper up to the backside of the connector in an effort to help it bypass the battery in the circuit to see if that lets it start.
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Ok, here is the update, still some problems. I replaced the bcm and checked many many wires. When I replaced the bcm, the doors, windows, radio, and gauges work. I called chevy as my security system is tripped (manufacturers). They said my sarvc may be a problem also but that part is discontinued and they don't have a replacement part. I am not able to find aftermarket part. Has anyone had this problem?
2004Slickside
Full Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2017
- Messages
- 606
This should cover it. Don't get distracted by different things working and not working. Go straight through the chart exactly as written. If you need some other part of the manual let me know. If you don't have the equipment you will need to get it, or take it to someone who does. Good luck
Bluonyx
Full Member
on mine it was the passlock system preventing the truck from starting and I had a alarm with remote start also. I ended up cutting the YELLOW wire on BCM C3 Pin A6, it disabled the Passlock but left the cluster passlock light always on. So then I just took the cluster out and covered the LED with electrical tape and reinstalled. No more light and haven't had a problem since.