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2007 Custom Wiring - Amps - Sub

LOL I like that mock-up pic with thick red line!

Yeah, I found that a half-inch difference in box height would translate into almost 2" in mid-gate being higher. Now that being said, I also employed another little trick:

I used two 1/4" thick heavy duty washers under each bolt of the seat frame, which lifts the entire rear seat up by a half inch as well. This allowed me to get the proper sized enclosure to fit under the rear of the seat frame. Now, this actually also allows the seat to fold down Further, because of the angle and the fact that the lower inside face of the midgate actually sits a few inches clear of the lower portion of the folded seat...so while the entire seat is higher, it allows a better fold down.

And..THANK YOU everyone for the positive feedback, hope the info helps out others as well!
 
ARIZONA DAVE NEED HELP I AM JUST A NEWB ON ELECTRICAL STUFF KINDA MAYBE ONE STEP ABOVE SINCE I KNOW WHAT IS + AND -  :laugh:  MY QUESTION IS HOW DO I CHECK TO SEE WHAT IS THE  LOW LEVEL CURRENT COMING FROM THE HEAD UNIT DOES THE TRUCK HAVE TO BE ON ? HOW DO I TEST THE WIRES IN OHMS ?VOLTS? THANKS FOR THE HELP JUST ASKING BECAUSE THE HEAD UNIT I AM WORKING WITH IS A DELPHI AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFF BETWEEN THIS AND THE STOCK NAVI UNIT
 
You really wont have the tools/scopes to be able to test (+) and (-) when it comes to low level or even speaker level audio signals.

The term (+) & (-) is kind of misleading, as audio signals are AC, not DC. the (+) & (-) refer more to the phase of the signal, so you cant test for it per se.

The only way to actually test for it is with a scope and even thats a major PIA...in the old days the (-) side used to be basically a ground...but now days amps and head units use a "floating" ground, and both + & - have a voltage.

I found my colors by scouring the internet for hours and hours and found the plug number and pin wire chart, you may have to do the same.

I know the corvette forums have a LOT of info on this stuff...you may also find the colors for a non-Nav Head Unit are the same as my NAV....if you have the Bose Amp, most probably they are the same color, or at least the same pins into the Bose amp.

luis88 said:
ARIZONA DAVE NEED HELP I AM JUST A NEWB ON ELECTRICAL STUFF KINDA MAYBE ONE STEP ABOVE SINCE I KNOW WHAT IS + AND -  :laugh:  MY QUESTION IS HOW DO I CHECK TO SEE WHAT IS THE  LOW LEVEL CURRENT COMING FROM THE HEAD UNIT DOES THE TRUCK HAVE TO BE ON ? HOW DO I TEST THE WIRES IN OHMS ?VOLTS? THANKS FOR THE HELP JUST ASKING BECAUSE THE HEAD UNIT I AM WORKING WITH IS A DELPHI AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFF BETWEEN THIS AND THE STOCK NAVI UNIT
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i have another question would your install still work if you unpluged all the connectors off the bose amp
 
THANKS FOR THE HELP THIS WRITE UP WILL HELP ALOT OF PEPOLE SAVE SOME MONEY ON INSTALL OF AUDIO UPGRADE  (y)
 
Linescreamer said:
Why use all the RCA jacks at the amp and not just straight speaker wire?
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If you run speaker wire instead of shielded cables, you run a greater risk of induced noise. (engine noise, alternator whine)
 
RCA cables from the Low-Level wires I tapped into back to my Amps (both 4-channel and Sub), then 12-ga wire from my Amps back to the factory wiring harness where the factory speaker wires are under the center console.

The Speaker-level plug is unplugged from the Bose Amp (they changed the 2007+ from 2005, and the speaker wires are on their own plug out of the factory Bose amp, so makes this much easier than pre-2007.)

Everything ran under the carpet.

Linescreamer said:
Are you just running sheilded cables to the amp inputs and then running speaker wires out from the amp to the speakers? 
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Thanks!

I'll tell ya, I'm kinda pissed that GM put a connector in the rear door boots so I couldn't run new wire to all my speakers.  I ran 16 gauge to my front crossovers and wanted to run the 16 gauge directly to the rear door speakers.  :mad:

What does this statement mean?  ?Leave the sub-out plug in, and use a high to low level converter to grab signal for subwoofer amp.?  This is printed in red on the picture of the Bose amp in the beginning of this thread. 

What is a high to low-level converter?  Do I have to buy one if I want to put a subwoofer amp in?
 
arizona-dave said:
The Ground Loop Isolators got rid of the engine hum (the high pitched whining noise), but did nothing for the popping.

I used a 650 ohm resistor between the remote-on power wire and ground...this eliminated the popping when system powers off, and lessened the popping upon starting the ignition.

I have No popping when I open doors, and no popping when the system powers off.

However still a popping when I start Engine about half the time...no popping when just turning ignition to "on" position.

I believe I need to use a capacitor with a drain resistor in-line with the remote power-on wire in order to eliminate the popping upon ignition.
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I got the loud  popping noise.  Where can I get this resistor and the GLIs?  How are they connected?  Please be slow with the answers because, I don't even know what these things do or look like. I read the resister is connected between the remote on and ground.  Does this mean it gets soldered to the white wire (remote on wire) and the other side is connected to chassis ground?  Do you do this under the rear seat or at the Bose amp under the console.  Do I need one resistor for each new amp installed? Thanks
 
GLI's - I got online. You can also get from radio shack, maybe Fry's electronics. They will plug in to you RCA cables and then into the Amp RCA inputs (just before the amp, so rather than plugging the RCA cables direct into the Amp input, the GLI goes between)

On the resister, Im not going to give specific advice to you on that if you dont know where to buy (or find) a resistor, you can screw things up bad, and even burn yourself or cause a fire (yes even on 12 volts). What I did, is make-shift, and I only did because I have a decent background with electronics, such as repairing burned out transistors on amp circuit boards...if you dont have that background and knowledge, then my advice would be to should avoid.

I would suggest getting a remote-on device that someone else posted way earlier in this thread, I still get a popping sound upon ignition on sometimes that I want to stop, and I think I will have to go that route (and remove my make-shift resistor).

Linescreamer said:
I got the loud  popping noise.  Where can I get this resistor and the GLIs?  How are they connected?  Please be slow with the answers because, I don't even know what these things do or look like. I read the resister is connected between the remote on and ground.  Does this mean it gets soldered to the white wire (remote on wire) and the other side is connected to chassis ground?  Do you do this under the rear seat or at the Bose amp under the console.  Do I need one resistor for each new amp installed? Thanks
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Thanks.  I'm getting the idea this popping can be eliminated by using a different remote turn on power source, or by putting a turn on delay module on the remote turn on wire.  Any idea which wire we can use that gets power when the radio is turned on?  I would hate to pull the head unit just to find this remote turn on power source.
 
You don't need to pull the headunit for the remote source. There is one located under the dash in the driver footwell area. There was a post somewhere showing it.
 
I used the open bottom left slot on my 2007 fusebox (behind the emergency brake).  It provides 12 volts in run and accessory positions only. Just slide a female connector onto it and run the wire into the console. Yeah the amps will always be on when the truck is running (even it the radio isn't on) but I couldn't find a radio activated 12 volt source.  Let us know if anyone identifies one.

I wouldn't use the white wire mentioned in the initial posts on this thread, as it definitely was responsible for the popping noise. 

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  It was a big help!  (y)
 
I used a wire at the Bose Amp, there is no radio-only on/off power source that I could find. In fact the wire I grabbed at the Bose Amp turns on whenever the doors are opened and when the remote is used to lock/unlock the truck...this keep the chime-mode on (dont really care about that chime)



Linescreamer said:
I used the open bottom left slot on my 2007 fusebox (behind the emergency brake).  It provides 12 volts in run and accessory positions only. Just slide a female connector onto it and run the wire into the console. Yeah the amps will always be on when the truck is running (even it the radio isn't on) but I couldn't find a radio activated 12 volt source.  Let us know if anyone identifies one.

I wouldn't use the white wire mentioned in the initial posts on this thread, as it definitely was responsible for the popping noise. 

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  It was a big help!  (y)
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Hmmm...this is interesting, I may run a new remote-on power wire as well, if that little white wire is the Female Dog making the popping noise, then that Female Dog has to go! LOL

Linescreamer said:
I used the open bottom left slot on my 2007 fusebox (behind the emergency brake).  It provides 12 volts in run and accessory positions only. Just slide a female connector onto it and run the wire into the console. Yeah the amps will always be on when the truck is running (even it the radio isn't on) but I couldn't find a radio activated 12 volt source.  Let us know if anyone identifies one.

I wouldn't use the white wire mentioned in the initial posts on this thread, as it definitely was responsible for the popping noise. 

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  It was a big help!  (y)
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