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2007 Custom Wiring - Amps - Sub

Ok...Think I found it...will post pic in next few days. if it proves successful

Attempting to do this now...yes on Xmas Eve, while ALL in the house, not even a mouse..yeah whatever...

Unlike the rest of the fam, Im still doing something...So, I poured out the warm milk left for Santa, ate 2 4 of the cookies, then came out of my hole to do this. HAHA....I will Edit this post as I make or do not make progress.

Did the tranny filter earlier today (actually past few days..dont ask)...the hurting back is in need of a little more than just advil, unfortunately at least at this particular moment in time, thats what i'm stuck with...plus a soldering iron, a corona, and this great forum.

Lower...Left...Un-Used (in my case) Plug-Slot...Lower Left Pin in that slot (not bottom middle plug)...anything will be better than that popping crappy wire that feed the bose Amp-a-wannabe (shoulda known better).

Also found that there may be an ACC/Ign/On supply where the Brake Controller plugs into.

Im frozen stiff...going to eat some more of santas cookies, since they are for me in the first place, and then Crash. MiMosas at the in-laws tomorrow morning. And an advil or 4.

Linescreamer said:
I used the open bottom left slot on my 2007 fusebox (behind the emergency brake).  It provides 12 volts in run and accessory positions only. Just slide a female connector onto it and run the wire into the console. Yeah the amps will always be on when the truck is running (even it the radio isn't on) but I couldn't find a radio activated 12 volt source.  Let us know if anyone identifies one.

I wouldn't use the white wire mentioned in the initial posts on this thread, as it definitely was responsible for the popping noise.  

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.  It was a big help!  (y)
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OK, I USED USE THE PIN I SHOW IN THIS PIC. The Popping while turning Key on using the wire that goes to the Bose Amp is just too much a PIA. After Ive run it for a while I will check back in to let everyone know if it gets rid of the annoying popping.

(Thanks for looking into this Linescreamer & Blu_Fuz - now I need to go back and edit those initial posts so others dont keep using that @!#!$ bose amp wire)
 

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Has anyone done an '11 Av with Bose and RSE?  Is the wiring the same as the '07 documented here?  I am going to put a sub and (sub) amp in my '11.  I priced the install with a local (well respected) car audio shop and they quoted me $75 to wire it (plus parts).  No way in HE!! they were doing it the correct way as documented here.  Plus they wanted to put a $100 powered Line Out Converter in it, which isn't needed.  My guess is they were going to pull the sound off of one rear speaker wiring thus needing the LOC.

I am using a JL Audio Slash 250/1v2 amp which has signal sensing turn on (so i can skip a remote wire if i want).  Will this turn on and pop with the soldered RCA pigtails? It also has a remote wire input so I can override that function if necessary.

Has anyone used the supercrewsound.com under seat box?  If so, do the seats fold flat still?
 
I think I saw something about some of the wiring changing after '10.

Best way for you to tell unfortunately will be to pull the center console to get a look at all the wires.

The Tahoe Forums might actually have some info on this as well.

Toofast_28 said:
Has anyone done an '11 Av with Bose and RSE?  Is the wiring the same as the '07 documented here?  I am going to put a sub and (sub) amp in my '11.  I priced the install with a local (well respected) car audio shop and they quoted me $75 to wire it (plus parts).  No way in HE!! they were doing it the correct way as documented here.  Plus they wanted to put a $100 powered Line Out Converter in it, which isn't needed.  My guess is they were going to pull the sound off of one rear speaker wiring thus needing the LOC.

I am using a JL Audio Slash 250/1v2 amp which has signal sensing turn on (so i can skip a remote wire if i want).  Will this turn on and pop with the soldered RCA pigtails? It also has a remote wire input so I can override that function if necessary.

Has anyone used the supercrewsound.com under seat box?  If so, do the seats fold flat still?
Click to expand...
 
OK, after a few weeks I have to report back that the annoying Popping when starting the engine or turning ignition is gone with the use of the new remote power on source.

Koodos to Linescreamer and Blu_fuz for the suggestion!!!
 
^ excellent! I'm sure one day if/when I upgrade the door speakers I will also move that remote source. Thanks for letting us know how it worked out  (y)
 
No prob! No more popping is music to my ears! haha

I was getting the ignition-on popping thru my sub as well as the door speakers, are you not?

blu_fuz said:
^ excellent! I'm sure one day if/when I upgrade the door speakers I will also move that remote source. Thanks for letting us know how it worked out  (y)
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I don't have my door speakers powered with an amp. My subs do make a subtle pop noise from that white remote wire. If I did have my door speakers powered with an amp, I'm sure the pop would be much louder and be more annoying and I would change the remote signal to your new location. I can tolerate it for now.
 
How did you attach your remote wire to the lower left yellow pin?  Sorry if it's a newbie question, getting back into this a/v stuff after 15-20 years...  Seeing if I can tackle installing the amp for a couple 10"s...

Equipment:

2 ....Jl audio 10w1v2-4...  10" subs
Alpine mrv-m500
Qbomb down fire under back seat box


Think it'll make a little bit of clean noise?
 
I used a standard Female quick-disconnect plug, with the plastic cover. it fits nice and snug over the male pin on the fuse box plug. Soldered the wire to the female plug. and heated the end of the plastic to make a nice end of the wire. Ran the wire up above E-brake, under steering column, and finessed it under the console plastic to under the cup holder where the rest of my massive mangle of wires are located.


Klay23 said:
How did you attach your remote wire to the lower left yellow pin?  Sorry if it's a newbie question, getting back into this a/v stuff after 15-20 years...  Seeing if I can tackle installing the amp for a couple 10"s...

Equipment:

2 ....Jl audio 10w1v2-4...  10" subs
Alpine mrv-m500
Qbomb down fire under back seat box


Think it'll make a little bit of clean noise?
Click to expand...
 
arizona-dave I have a 03 with bose and I am running 2 10' jl10w3 with a mtx thunder elite 601D amp. My amp has speaker line level input and came with 2 sets of speaker wire that has rca plug at one end
Can I use the sub wire
Dark solid green(+)-Light blue/Black stripe(-)
Dark blue w/white stripe(+)-Green/Black stripe(-)
and connect them to the speaker line level input wires? or should I use a converter?

Nathan
 
Mr.Blondie said:
arizona-dave I have a 03 with bose
Click to expand...


Dave has another thread for the earlier trucks like yours, please keep any questions about pre '07 in the other thread so we don't confuse anyone reading in here.
 
Yep :)  -  http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,116502.msg1811803.html#msg1811803

blu_fuz said:
Dave has another thread for the earlier trucks like yours, please keep any questions about pre '07 in the other thread so we don't confuse anyone reading in here.
Click to expand...
 
Dave and Fuzzy -
You guys rock - literally!

I've had my Avy for just over a year now and have read through tons of info found on these forums. NO OTHER SOURCE OF INFORMATION IS AS DETAILED, PROVEN OR LAID OUT AS IS FOUND HERE! PERIOD.

I've read everything I can find about installing subs and amps in my 09 BLACK (fastest color) LTZ and, Dave - you really hit it here. I'm not sure of your background, saw you had electronics in there, but it's obviously paid off for all of us here - THANK YOU!

So I moved out of my 03 Honda Pilot into this LTZ and never looked back. What a sweet ride full of creature comforts and versatility. That versatility was partial reasoning for stepping up to the Avy, admiration for it's styling was always paramount to me when the vehicle first launched. Same reason I ride a Valkyrie Interstate while everyone else rides the same old - same old - millions produced.

When I sold the Pilot I took out the amps I installed. I bought the California Profile AP1000 for the doors and the AP400 for the 10" MTX I installed in the factory location. It sounded much better then the factory setup, especially when I replaced the door speakers with Polk DB501's.

I intend on re-using the amps as budget constraints exist. I've looked at all possible sub solutions and really liked the JL mid gate replacement option. Even with the protruding box there's still enough room to fold it down and get the occasional 4x8 sheet in. So I've been scouring for some time and finally stumbled upon a gate with the 2 JL 12w3v2's for sale locally and picked it up the other night - for $400 - in perfect working order and rhino lined to boot! Can't wait now, but obviously want to do it right. That's why I book marked this thread.

The door speakers will wait a bit but as long as I can get the gate and amps in and wired now then I can change out the door speakers anytime.

So now is a good time to start. Re-read entire post again to be sure I have all I need and realized there's another trip to radio shack in store for me to get the RCA plugs to make my pigtails up. No biggie - right down the road.

So with all that said - with your new turn on wire location being in the fuse box and the success you mentioned, it seems the resistor you used in the other line is no longer needed?

Also too - throughout many threads in this regard it seems the door speaker of choice is the Kappa. Is that the case? Is there a consortium of Kappa lovers here?

As well, has anyone installed independent tweets in the rear? I was thinking of adding some highs in the rear trim in the upper rear corners to get full "surround" of highs. Think it'll make a difference or would it be overkill?

I've always thought that factory speaker locations are more a matter of space then they are actually the best location for them and that sound quality/separation is sacrificed because of this. They try to circumvent by adding a meager sub inside a console and a center speaker but it just doesn't "light up" your seating position. The factory HU tries to fix this by having the driver setting - i guess kudos for that - but it just isn't complete.

Unlike the kids today thinking one ear bud is adequate - I love my separation - YYZ!

Thanks again for your write up and dedication.

I hope I can be at least somewhat helpful in the future.

 
I'm glad to help where I can. Without the members sharing information like they do, we would all end up at the dealership or stereo shop paying out loads of money for really some simple jobs.

Welcome to the site, enjoy!!! You will learn a lot.

(y)
 
So with all that said - with your new turn on wire location being in the fuse box and the success you mentioned, it seems the resistor you used in the other line is no longer needed?

Also too - throughout many threads in this regard it seems the door speaker of choice is the Kappa. Is that the case? Is there a consortium of Kappa lovers here?

As well, has anyone installed independent tweets in the rear? I was thinking of adding some highs in the rear trim in the upper rear corners to get full "surround" of highs. Think it'll make a difference or would it be overkill?
 
I am still using the white wire under the console for the remote on/off. It makes a little 'thump' noise but it doesn't bother me.

I will be using Alpine component fronts and Alpine full range in the rear just like the OEM setup.
 
Thank you!!! for the Kudos! :)  (y)

Ive used the Infinity Kappas in trucks, cars and Boats...I have a set in my 98 Lexus that are going on 14 yrs old and they still rock.

On the wire -I think I left my resistor in, because my problem was more the thump on turning on, so I left it there to bleed energy for no thump off.
 
I finally completed my midgate swap and amp(s) installation. Time consuming is an understatement. Console removal alone via method fuz laid out was 2+ hours. Pulled the amp harness out to make my connections, RCA pigtails - ALL soldered and heat shrunk using marine grade heat shrink with sealer inside (harbor freight has an inexpensive assortment kit).

I got creative with my speaker wire connections and used a 4 wire connector setup made for trailers hitches. It's sold as an extension with both a male a female connector on about an 18 inch length of 4 wire ribbon cable. Snipped in half and soldered one end onto the amp harness speaker wire (snipped from amp connector) and other end to 2 pair of speaker wires coming from my  installed amp. I got two of the extender harnesses so I could do both front and rear the same way. Did the front speakers on one plug and rear speakers on another plug. I used opposite connectors when attaching to the amp harness so they could not be crossed. Left the snipped wires from the amp connector loose and sealed each end so no shorts.

Pulled my sub signal from the sub out / power plug as mentioned in your write up. RCA pigtails attached there. Bought 2 high quality 3 wire A/V shielded cables with color coded (RYW) RCA's and split the yellow (video) cord from both sets. I saddled those 2 cords together and they're my sub feeds. The other 2 - 2 wire cords (red and white) became my left and right for the front and rear inputs.

My 09 LTZ did not have the same color coding in the connectors as you've listed. I employed the aid of a GM service manager I know who got me the pinouts from his manuals. There are actually 3 different configurations depending on the option code of the audio system level installed. All three amp connectors on my 09 are on the left side of the amp. Each position (LF/RF, etc) has a twisted pair within the amp harness and are easy enough to distinguish.

I pulled low level signals from the 40 pin connector under the front cupholder. Again - all soldered - no taps - even the ends of the amp power and speaker out cables were soldered before attaching to the amps.

I pulled the remote turn on signal from the drivers side fuse box near the parking brake top connector (white) - position 6 - not 0 as previously stated - pulled terminal out and soldered wire to it.

So after being so certain and taking my time and double checking and re-reading this and other forums and labelling each wire - each end - and then carefully putting it all back together and making my amp connections and neatening it all up - I HAVE A PROBLEM! Arrrrrgh! And I though I was good to go.

When I hit the key and turned the radio on - everything was at FULL VOLUME! And it cannot be turned down! All other functions on the head work fine except for the volume. At the same time - when the head unit is turned off - the display is messed up. Just two dots showing up to the right and low of center. When it's on it disays the proper channel or menu or whatever screen I select. I just have no volume control. Even the on/off switch from the volume knob works. And it's LOUD!

So, for the time being, speaker outputs are disconnected from the amp and I pulled the ground off too so they're not powered without a load attached.

I think I touched on every thing I did to give you the full picture (without pictures) and am hoping that I did something that someone here will know about and point me to an EASY fix. I'm gonna hate to have to pull that console out again - not that it's difficult - it's just time consuming.

Anybody got any ideas?
 
Well, it's been a few days and I haven't received any response? Is my situation not clear enough? Too ambiguous? Lack of pictures have a roll?

To try to clarify, after re-re-reading my post, I pulled the low level (I'm 99.9% sure) from the 40 pin plug under the cupholder. I was able to get a pinout on that connector and figured it to be the best location to pull from where there is enough room to get my RCA pigtails situated. I cut the lines so no signal was going to the BOSE amp and soldered my pigtails onto the leads going to the 40 pin connector. This can be verified as I have no chime now. As well, and I don't remember reading anything about this, my Bluetooth phone connection isn't working. No audio. Is this a sign I pulled from the wrong circuits perhaps?

For the speakers I pulled the lines from the output plug, cut them, and soldered my (1) 4 pin connectors to the fronts and (1) 4 pin connector to the rears. Now no output from the BOSE amp to the door speakers. This too is a reason for no chime - or perhaps THE reason and my low level lines are not really my low level lines.

With the 3 possible setups available, so too are the pinouts for (all) of the plugs to/from the amp. I thought I had the correct combination of wires as the color codes matched the pinout on connector X211 (40 pin) under the cupholder.

So now I just have the center channel (unmolested) and the subs (banging!) working as they should. I've disconnected the door speaker from the amp for now. I do have volume control on center and sub with the door speakers removed.

At a loss here and could really use some help. Anyone?

 
You are using factory head unit?

My guess is that is has something to do with the fact your amp doesn't see speakers anymore or something in that area... I extended the low level audio from the amplifier to the RSE in my truck and lost rear speakers... Not sure if I did anything else but I don't miss the rear speakers and don't feel like spending hours trying to sort it out so I have left it as is especially since I plan to replace the whole system with an aftermarket system at some point soon.

In my '03 there is a data line from the headunit to the amplifier and they talk..

When you pulled the low level inputs did you leave them also going to the amplifier?

Rodney
 
You used different points to connect your system. Without being physically there to test the wires you spliced into, I can't help you.

I do agree that now you have changed what the system 'sees' as part of the speaker circuitry by totally disconnecting the rear speakers, but why would the system go to full-loud.... who knows.

You also state that you pulled the low level signal from a 40 pin connector??? That does not seem right. Sure there might be audio signal in the wires you tapped, but is it the correct audio signal, I don't know but I would start by finding a true low level audio signal and TESTING the signal before totally cutting the stock wires apart. Use side taps for testing, that would be the easiest or try to slide your +/- audio wire into the existing connectors for the tests.
 
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