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2013 Avalanche Oil pressure problems?

Latchy

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2021
Messages
2
Hello everyone. I have recently purchased an 2013 and the check engine light has came on. I took it to the dealership and the diagnosed it that the oil pressure sensor or switch that needs to be replaced. $780 CAD later it was replaced. Check engine light came on the next day. I took it back, and they said it's giving the same reading after they replaced it. They "Flashed" it and the check engine light was off for a few hrs, then came back on. Where should the oil pressure gauge needle be sitting on idle? Has anyone had an issue like this before. I love this truck, but that check engine light stresses me out.
 
Well the dealer should know this, but ask if they replaced the filter under the sensor.
 
Where should the oil pressure gauge needle be sitting on idle?
If the engine is cold my 2010 is a little under 40 psi. Once the motor warms up it is lower but always above 20 at idle.

What oil pressure are you showing?
 
Hello everyone. I have recently purchased an 2013 and the check engine light has came on. I took it to the dealership and the diagnosed it that the oil pressure sensor or switch that needs to be replaced. $780 CAD later it was replaced. Check engine light came on the next day. I took it back, and they said it's giving the same reading after they replaced it. They "Flashed" it and the check engine light was off for a few hrs, then came back on. Where should the oil pressure gauge needle be sitting on idle? Has anyone had an issue like this before. I love this truck, but that check engine light stresses me out.
I took it back again, and they gave it an oil flush and change, although the oil was changed only 3 months ago with not a lot of millage put on. Light has been off ever since. The oil pressure gauge is higher now, but when the engine gets warm the oil pressure gauge drops considerably. Ok. thank you. Mine is running around the same psi as yours now. :)
 
Glad to hear it went well. In case you're curious why the oil pressure is lower than older trucks, it's the high volume oil pump required for AFM (cylinder deactivation).
 
I also had to replace screen and pressure sensor. Mine reads differently depending on RPM as pump speed changes, the oil filter used also changes my pressure readings.
Paper filters are cheaper but didn't allow as much oil flow through them, I spend more for better filters allow more oil flow through them.
Cold starts oil reads 60 until engine warms up. At idle stopped hot days iv noticed mine as low as about 38. Rises as soon as I give engine more throttle. I change oil & filter more often than I have with any other vehicle as I don't want to have lifter or valve failures.
 
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Paper filters are cheaper but didn't allow as much oil flow through them, I spend more for better filters allow more oil flow through them.
....

HUH?

All sorts of EXPENSIVE filters use paper.
Again no one knows what a good oil filter is until they get some sort of testing done on them via the BETA ratio test used on hydraulic oil filters.

You get data based on debris size and % caught in single pass.
 
Modern premium synthetic filters are far more restrictive as a result of them being much better at capturing small particles in the oil. That's the very nature of filtration. Much like how a K&N air filter 'can' increase your performance with airflow, but at the cost of being a really awful at capturing small particles.

Which is how they claim some modern filters like a purolator boss, which has dense synthetic material, can be good for a 15k mile oil change when combined with a quality synthetic oil in a well running engine. )i wouldn't do it in an afm or high mileage car.. but its a thing)

That said cost doesnt always equal quality and if you're really concerned about it, there are a number of people that tear them open to try and quantify the build quality of the different brands and even show which are more or less the same filter with a different label. It's also important to understand the marketing jargon on the label. Some companies use more standardized rating criteria and others make up their own or compare their test criteria to the standard one and claim that thir's is better.

Either way, all standard oil filters have a bypass valve built into them that prevents the motor from being starved of oil if for whatever reason the filter itself does fully clog up. It lets the oil free flow. But you'd have to really be abusing the engine with extended oil changes to run into that issue.
 
there are all types of filter media and it does not matter what they are made from really..

It is about the size of the hole in the media and how deep and many are the folds to hold dirt.

ISO 16889 =​


AKA BETA ratio.

Good Info..

But any filter that does not provide numbers for beta ratio... well then you have no idea what it does. good or bad.
 
HUH?

All sorts of EXPENSIVE filters use paper.
Again no one knows what a good oil filter is until they get some sort of testing done on them via the BETA ratio test used on hydraulic oil filters.

You get data based on debris size and % caught in single pass.
Just stating what I saw with my experience watching my oil pressure readings. It's very possible for less expensive filters to do well.
I didnt write down which filter brands gave lower pressure readings, but I did get better pressure readings buying non paper media ones.
Very possible for paper filters to preform as well they all have different specks. Not knocking quality just reported my experience.
There can also be faulty parts new I had a bad batch of ac Delco iridium plugs that melted something between meatal & ceramic caused problems for months until found 3 could gap with fingers 4mm wiggle.
I switched to Bosch plugs & havnt had problem with them yet.
So like many products usually personal preference & previous experience with them drive purchasing new replacements
 
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