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2500 Brakes

Looks like good kit.. But it's basically stock calipers with upgraded rotors and pads, probably better braking. But unless you increase the clamping power of the caliper they are no better than your stock system with slotted rotors and their HD towing brake pads. If your calipers are rusted and nasty and cost is an issue then it's a great deal. If you call Summit they will beat anyone's price..

The 2500 had 2 piston calipers front and rear, so it's pretty good to start with. I put the SSBC 3 piston aluminum calipers on the front, with the SSCB slotted rotors and Hawk Super Duty pads and I could really tell the difference. I did not change the rear calipers since IMHO they are pretty good as is although I've been tempted to get the SSBC rears but the cost on them has doubled since I put on the fronts.. I don't know if you can get those any more, haven't seen then for the front but they still have for the rear.

If money is no object then Wilwood has a them but they are over 2 grand and require 20" rims...

Good luck and let us know with what you come up with...
 
My personal opinion would be that you're better off ordering something like that from rock auto and save yourself $200:



Note, these more or less are the exact same kit, they just have different backing plate shims. The z23 kit has rubber shims. The "extreme" truck and tow ones have SS shims that resist heat but may be slightly noisier in motion than the rubber shimmed ones. They have the same ceramic pad material.


Building off of what randy said, they are stock calipers aside from the paint, so going with a rotor and pad kit usually is the way to go unless you need the calipers.




As for how good they are? I replaced my stock brembo rotors and pads on my 6-piston front/ 4-piston rear charger with the rotor+ pad kit and id say that they were 80% as good. Considering the brembo pads chew rotors to pieces, id say that's pretty decent. They required a bit more immediate pedal pressure to bite, but stopped very well. Not apples to apples, but I havent been needing to do my 2500 yet. When i do, im leaning towards these.
 
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You can get them at Summit for less if you call them to order, they will look up Rock Auto's price and beat it.. And the shipping will be free usually very fast.. I've gotten parts from Rock auto when I have to, but because their shipping can be way up there.. When I was rebuilding my front end and had about $200 worth of items in the cart shipping was going to be over $50.. Went to Summit, parts $200 and free shipping.. Just my .02

 
Oh, summit price matches? Well then, that makes them all the more useful seeing as their list prices tend to not be all that competitive.
 
Just saying.. Rock Auto wants 79.00 to ship the rotors and pads.. And 104.00 to ship the calipers and rotor set.. So do the math and don't have Summit price match and get free shipping on top of that.. Just pointing out the facts, nothing but the facts..

Calipers, rotors and pads...

789.00 + shipping 104.00 = 893.00 Rock Auto

860.00 + free shipping Summit ... Hmm Still cheaper

789.00 price match + free shipping.. Hmm much cheaper...

You have the right to buy from Rock Auto.. Just saying..
 
I'm willing to admit after taking a look at my comment that I could be perceived as being sarcastic. But it wasn't. I acknowledged your advice when I was unaware of that policy. That makes an enormous difference in my desire to want to do business with them.

I have never once wandered on SR's site and thought "oh wow, that's not a half bad price"
It's always sticker shock. In fact, their prices are usually in line with an auto parts store. which I could just.. you know.. go and pickup if I wanted to pay $15 per spark plug.


Shipping costs do vary depending on your shipping region compared to the warehouse. For me,. Even after sales tax, core charge and shipping, RA is still cheaper. So much so, that I could wave my hand at returning the core and still be ahead. Hell, this isn't even including the typical 5% "how did you hear from us" code. But again, as long as SR will price match something, they will likely always come out on top.
Screenshot_20210704-025234.jpgScreenshot_20210704-025246.jpg


Frankly RA's shipping system bothers the hell out of me. I welcome another option. It loves to separate items that originally were from the same warehouse and charge extra. That said, what they charge for each shipment I also can't scoff at as someone that ships dozens of packages a week. If summit wants to price match my whole cart, by all means, they can have all of my business and I will be trying them out with the parts for my friend's 1500.
 
There are many many many other sites that also sell this stuff....
I can take a week to find the best parts at the best price with the best service...
If I need it in hurry.... well then I do it faster

I bet you drop that PN into a DUCK DUCK GO Search web page you get hundreds of places to buy from...

PEace
 
I did not take your comments with any sarcasm, just friendly banter.. Yes shipping varies, RA wanted $104 to shipping to me in Reno, but your over all price is just the cost on site, call them and the price will drop to match the competitors. Them the cost will be less..

When RA ships you multiple parts that come from different locations they charge top shipping for each item and the cost goes up quickly, so all I say is there are other options. Sometimes RA has a better price and I order from them when they do, here's my refrigerator in the garage for proof..
 

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Thanks all for all the input. (y)
I went with the AutoZone next day sold me. It all came together. Need to get it done leaving soon.
Let them go to long. I became one of those I would mock, swore I would not become one.
Squealing like a stuck P$%. :idiot: How I felt driving down the road.
I will also be adding Braided Brake Lines.
JV

 
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Congratulations on your decision, now the hard part the brake job itself.. Actually not that difficult when adding all new parts.. My recommendations are a 3 foot pipe for leverage on the caliper/bracket bolts and something that I try to do before I work on anything is to degrease or power wash it first, to me it really helps make the job go a little easier.. Good luck and may all your fasteners turn freely..
 
My hardest part was getting the rotors off, until I realized they are holes in the face where you can put a bolt into them and they just pop off.
 
I didn't have that problem with mine but I always put a light coat of anti seize on the face of the hub and a tiny bit on the wheel studs to help fend off any rust and to make the next time /wheel rotations easier.
 
Quit bragging Randy, you know where my 2500 has been most of it life rust belt. But the anti seize is mandatory. :laugh:
 
LOL... Don't make me post pictures of my rust free undercarriage, because I will...
 
Yeah Yeah Yeah Randy. No one around here has ever stopped reminding us Northerners about that.

Another thing you can do is remove the caliper with the bracket attached that way you can use a big impact wrench. This way you don't have to fool with those caliper mounting bolts. Since you are replacing the rubber flex lines a bolt cutter works well on them
 
Congratulations on your decision, now the hard part the brake job itself.. Actually not that difficult when adding all new parts.. My recommendations are a 3 foot pipe for leverage on the caliper/bracket bolts and something that I try to do before I work on anything is to degrease or power wash it first, to me it really helps make the job go a little easier.. Good luck and may all your fasteners turn freely..
Randy I keep a old floor jack handle so I can use it long or short. It was put to use along with a 3/4 in. set I have.
I always say brakes are one of the most simplest things to work on. But they always kick my ass.
 
My hardest part was getting the rotors off, until I realized they are holes in the face where you can put a bolt into them and they just pop off.
Well I was wondering why these big ass things did not have a threaded hole. Mine did dot have any holes.
 
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Well what an ordeal. I lost somewhere between 2 to 3 hours. I started around 8 am yesterday came in just after 1 am. There are wheel spacers on the rear. I could not get one lug nut off on the passenger side. I thought I had stripped it. I tried driving sockets on it. Broke down got my grinder and cut off saw out. SB when I got to the nut it was a different size. All were 22 mm. this was 19 mm... Anybody need one 2” wheel spacer.

Today was a blessing. Just had to adjust the driver side brackets for the front brake lines, bleed the brakes, and bed the pads in. :woohoo:
So far they are working. The big test will be soon. :damon: So throw me some prayers. :needhug:
 
There always one that tests you, someone probably put it on with a impact gun.. At least you know it's done right and take pride on a job well done..
 
I'm surprised they didn't require a chisel to get them off.
 
Don’t hurry when you’re risking lives on your work.

I pulled out the new brake lines just glancing at the old. Not seeing the difference in lengths in the rear lines. “Not laying the new and old side by side”. I put them on the wrong sides. Looking like they were routed clear from harm.

Bedded them in drove around for about an hour. The next day backing up to hook the trailer up. The wife held up her hand. Hit the brakes POP brake pedal to the floor. Popped the driver’s side rear line. It had been rubbing. Well you just do not run down and by a new SS line. Installed the old line for now. Finished up at 1 am.

As of this writing they have very good clapping power. Will post if it changes.
 
Sounds like fun, when I did mine I cut the old ones off and used the original clips to mount the new ones,
 
Sounds like fun, when I did mine I cut the old ones off and used the original clips to mount the new ones,
I did reuse the font brackets. Had no clips on the rear. I'll have to look through here for pics.
Maybe time for an U- pull it trip.
 
I'm having trouble finding SS braided line. For the 2500. Any :help:?
 
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